All my fish are hyperventilating and my corals are shrinking in HELP!

[Frtdrmrose7]

My issue is I don’t see any sign of neither of them

How are your Chromis breathing?

 

[MnFish1]

My issue is I don’t see any sign of neither of them

Common things are common - rare things are rare. To me the most common thing would be - as @Frtdrmrose7 says -a disease. OR-ammonia caused by one thing dying - escalated by other things dying - or other toxins (low O2 from increased bacteria decomposing the dying things) etc etc. Im generally not a fan of ICP tests-but this would be one

 

[ReefJake123]

How are your Chromis breathing?

It seems they are fine and calm now

 

[ReefJake123]

Common things are common - rare things are rare. To me the most common thing would be - as @Frtdrmrose7 says -a disease. OR-ammonia caused by one thing dying - escalated by other things dying - or other toxins (low O2 from increased bacteria decomposing the dying things) etc etc. Im generally not a fan of ICP tests-but this would be one

I’ll try to get one ASAP

 

[ccombs]

I haven't read all posts yet, but is there any sign of a bacteria bloom?

A rapid bloom can quickly deplete oxygen.

 

[ReefJake123]

I haven't read all posts yet, but is there any sign of a bacteria bloom?

A rapid bloom can quickly deplete oxygen.

Not as of rn

 

[MnFish1]

OK so just for the sake of discussion - I re-read all of the information. The fact that the shrimp died makes 'fish disease' less likely - unless there is an ammonia problem. (have you been checking it frequently?). Have you double-checked ALL of the tests you have done on your tank - with an LFS or another source - salinity, etc etc. Have you by chance done a test for copper?

Thinking back - was there ANYTHING different on the day before the tang and the angel died? temperature, water change, etc etc etc. I agree with you - go back to the initial episode...... It sounds like a toxin - or a disease. My rec - soon - take a sample of the water - to send for an ICP test - then change as much water as you can - as quickly as you can - matching parameters. What salt are you using (sorry if I missed it). The reason for taking a sample and sending an ICP is that though it may not 'help' current situation - it may help when you get it back - to see 'what was going on'. Would recheck your ammonia/nitrite (though not likely a problem if thepH is ok). But - I would re check all of your tests.

 

[MnFish1]

Not as of rn

I thought you said there was cloudiness to the water at some point - which could have been a bacterial bloom

 

[ReefJake123]

OK so just for the sake of discussion - I re-read all of the information. The fact that the shrimp died makes 'fish disease' less likely - unless there is an ammonia problem. (have you been checking it frequently?). Have you double-checked ALL of the tests you have done on your tank - with an LFS or another source - salinity, etc etc. Have you by chance done a test for copper?

Thinking back - was there ANYTHING different on the day before the tang and the angel died? temperature, water change, etc etc etc. I agree with you - go back to the initial episode...... It sounds like a toxin - or a disease. My rec - soon - take a sample of the water - to send for an ICP test - then change as much water as you can - as quickly as you can - matching parameters. What salt are you using (sorry if I missed it). The reason for taking a sample and sending an ICP is that though it may not 'help' current situation - it may help when you get it back - to see 'what was going on'. Would recheck your ammonia/nitrite (though not likely a problem if thepH is ok). But - I would re check all of your tests.

Thank you great advice but I beat you to it[emoji23] I’ve as of rn have checked all my parameters 10 times[emoji16] but all the same no issues and I use instant oceans reef crystals which I know for a fact is one of the best salts out there salinity is perfectly at 1.025 as always, I have checked copper and still no issue there either nothing at all different the day before it was my normal routine feeding day that’s it

 

[ReefJake123]

I thought you said there was cloudiness to the water at some point - which could have been a bacterial bloom

There was cloudiness but my assumption is that was the chemical warfare

 

[ccombs]

Not as of rn

Ok, got through all the pages, sorry that I posted an idea that was already discussed.

I recently went through an issue where I had parameters out of whack while simultaneously dealing with a disease. I thought they were related but they ended up just happening around the same time.

For anything with tank chemistry, follow @Lasse 's advice. He didn't really get into it too much, but the .25 ammonia can be deceiving depending on the test. Some tests show TAN (which will often read higher) and some just show true ammonia. I won't get into explicit detail here, but with what I am seeing, the ammonia does not seem to be the culprit. You said you used the API test, correct?

In regards to disease, @Frtdrmrose7 can probably get you down the right track. I could not find a solid answer or maybe I missed it, has anything wet been added to the tank recently?

Sorry for your troubles and sorry if anything in my post is redundant. I read through the 6 pages quick so maybe I can help contribute to a solution.

 

[ReefJake123]

But guys great news! The fish are not hyperventilating anymore and all my zoas are beginning to come out

 

[MnFish1]

Thank you great advice but I beat you to it[emoji23] I’ve as of rn have checked all my parameters 10 times[emoji16] but all the same no issues and I use instant oceans reef crystals which I know for a fact is one of the best salts out there salinity is perfectly at 1.025 as always, I have checked copper and still no issue there either nothing at all different the day before it was my normal routine feeding day that’s it

Just so you understand what I mean - I mean testing using a different testing kit, etc. not just repeating the test 10x. +1 on the copper, etc

 

[ReefJake123]

The conclusion of this post would be just bc your tank is in amazing condition doesn’t mean it won’t take a sudden **** on your face! Always be prepared for the downhill of your tank you never know

 

[ReefJake123]

Ok, got through all the pages, sorry that I posted an idea that was already discussed.

I recently went through an issue where I had parameters out of whack while simultaneously dealing with a disease. I thought they were related but they ended up just happening around the same time.

For anything with tank chemistry, follow @Lasse 's advice. He didn't really get into it too much, but the .25 ammonia can be deceiving depending on the test. Some tests show TAN (which will often read higher) and some just show true ammonia. I won't get into explicit detail here, but with what I am seeing, the ammonia does not seem to be the culprit. You said you used the API test, correct?

In regards to disease, @Frtdrmrose7 can probably get you down the right track. I could not find a solid answer or maybe I missed it, has anything wet been added to the tank recently?

Sorry for your troubles and sorry if anything in my post is redundant. I read through the 6 pages quick so maybe I can help contribute to a solution.

Thank you and don’t worry about any repetition at least you are trying to help that’s a good thing no wet things added besides my zoas and yes I used api only for my ammonia I have Red Sea kit for everything else ofc

 

[ReefJake123]

Just so you understand what I mean - I mean testing using a different testing kit, etc. not just repeating the test 10x. +1 on the copper, etc

I used my API and my Red Sea kits

 

[ccombs]

Thank you and don’t worry about any repetition at least you are trying to help that’s a good thing no wet things added besides my zoas and yes I used api only for my ammonia I have Red Sea kit for everything else ofc

Ok, so fun facts below. More info than you need here, but it will be useful long term.

Many test kits measure TAN (Total Ammonia Nitrogen) and that is a mix of Ammonia (toxic to fish) and Ammonium (not really a big concern). Many times you might think your ammonia is really high because it includes the ammonium (NH4). This is why knowing your test is important. I believe the API kit measures TAN. A quick and cheap way to measure just the Ammonia is with a Seachem Ammonia Alert Badge. These just measure the Ammonia and give you a better idea of where you are at with this parameter, especially in a very mature tank where you are less likely to see an Ammonia issue.

 

[ReefJake123]

But Rest In Peace to my Coral beauty angelfish, yellow tang, blue tang, kole tang, pseudo chromis, diamond watchman goby, green chromis, blue damsel, longnose hawkfish, blood shrimp, and my cleaner shrimp these were amazing creatures and deserved more life time and I failed to give them that for this I will always remember as my biggest failure yet my best learning experience

 

[ReefJake123]

Ok, so fun facts below. More info than you need here, but it will be useful long term.

Many test kits measure TAN (Total Ammonia Nitrogen) and that is a mix of Ammonia (toxic to fish) and Ammonium (not really a big concern). Many times you might think your ammonia is really high because it includes the ammonium (NH4). This is why knowing your test is important. I believe the API kit measures TAN. A quick and cheap way to measure just the Ammonia is with a Seachem Ammonia Alert Badge. These just measure the Ammonia and give you a better idea of where you are at with this parameter, especially in a very mature tank where you are less likely to see an Ammonia issue.

Thank you actually really cool didn’t know that

 

[ccombs]

Thank you actually really cool didn’t know that

Anything on this forum that I post that sounds smart, I probably learned from @Lasse lol.