alot of fish dead this morning? @^&&$$@$^%^$%5

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ddc0715

ddc0715

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Good question about leaching..

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I have my pumps set up just as they would be in my fish room? Heres some pics. Someone mentioned gravity could be a cause. Since my tubes hang in my sump and bottles are higher. I've got them set to dose 50 mls total. At the same time of night. We will see. Im suspect of bottles 2 an 4
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Seabiscuit

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If you can get some fluid check valves that would help because the fluid will keep running if the rollers in the peristaltic pumps leave the tubing in the open position. They are on my Christmas list because I can't find any under $10 each. (IMO the air check valves aren't 100% for fluids, but some people use them.)

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MnFish1

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ok, icp results are in. remember two water changes were done on the system before this test was sent off. and one WC was done right after i sent this off, so im sure is lower now.
lithium and zinc are still high so odd those two are.

ANYWAYYYYYY iodine is off the charts when compared to my last icp test of I=251.
Due to excessively high P/PO4 readings, it has not been possible to accurately test for Iodine Lower P/PO4 value by using AL99 or ROWAphos phosphate remover, then retest. I'm currently running gfo just started last month. so i believe this number is also lower now.


copper? where would that have come from the level is low but still interesting.

So I think we have the answer. IODIDE OVERDOSE- brand seachem iodide - amount 500 ml into a 150 - cause- stuck pump, I assume. now I'm going to fill the dosing pump with water to see if they stick to confirm if the pump got stuck on somehow. hope im not sleep treating/walking my tank. lol. im going to continue to do bi-weekly WC'S for awhile then re-test. say in another month.


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This is one of the problems with ICP tests. Your 'Iodine' is in the form of Iodide - which is 'non-toxic'. (An ICP test measures 'iodide' as 'iodine'. Your 'chlorine' is in the form of 'Chloride' - which is also 'non-toxic'. I do not believe it is what killed your fish - but it probably did have some affects on the ionic balance of your tank. My question is 'why do you have so much lithium, tin, zinc, etc in your tank? Probably based on what you're dosing. If you are concerned about the 'iodide' - serial water changes will remove it. My guess is that if you jump in and try to over adjust you will end up hurting the corals that are doing fine. For example - if you had a high 'chloride' level - you wouldn't necessarily 'worry' same with iodide (i.e. its not an emergency IMHO) -
 

MnFish1

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PS here is a nice calculator that will tell you how many water change you can use to get your iodide down to 'where you want it'. You can adjust the values as you see fit. Basically, your Iodide is currently at 2.43 ppm (2430 microgm/liter) = 2.43 mg/l = 2.43 ppm. You want it down to 0.06 ppm. https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/EffectOfWaterChanges.php

Using the calculator - You can see that unless you do multiple large water changes (assuming the iodide in yoru replacement water is .06 ppm (which the graph above says is 'normal') - the iodide will not drop to 'normal' for a while - part of that may be a limit of the calculator.
 
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MnFish1

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PPS - I would strongly suggest you contact Seachem technical support - and ask their advice. It would be nice to know which cation the iodide ion is 'attached to'.
 

MnFish1

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PPPS - sorry this is so long - Potassium (K+) is the cation used in Seachem Iodide - its interesting that Potassium in your tank is not 'high' - probably because potassium is usually present in much higher amounts in the tank - but yours is reading 'lower' than recommended. I also read a post from @Randy Holmes-Farley suggesting - iodide is not likely to be harmful except with a massive overdose - and water changes are the only solution if you want to do something about it.
 

MnFish1

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Yeah, that's 3 times the high-safe level. Does anybody know if a 100% water change will remove most of that iodine, or will it need to leech out of the rocks/sand after the first water change and then increase the iodine level in the water again? I have a doser on my Christmas list. The only thing I think I'd do is fill the reservoirs once a week with only a week's worth of stuff. It seems tedious, but I think that and periodically replacing the doser tubes are two things to help out with accidentally "stuck on" dosers.

I dont believe there will be leaching - BUT - there will still be iodine 'in the water in the rock' - so I guess in that sense it will 'leach out'. Note the OP stated that his tank already had an I level of 251 - which is more than 4 x than recommended already - I would stop dosing Iodide altogether perhaps?
 

Brew12

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MAJOR UPDATE..... so I all my survivors are in qt together with new fish as well. I noticed today that my leperod wrasse was missing some scales/hide, not much, just a little,.....Remember me saying earlier some of the orginal dead appeared to be missing scales... ..any way the wrasse was not that way when he went in a few days ago, I blue it off as he was rubbing the pvc pipe edges cause that where I would find him, cling to the edges of the pipes. And or disease that was killed by the qt treatments. So I leave to run errors for a good while, come back and WOW
almost 95% of his body is now missing scales/ hide. With large bits taken out.. Thats it.....im setting up my camera.. No more deaths It stressing me out....an this is what i caught. Im not posting the video. But you can clearly see who did this. There is 0 survival rate he i believe. I pulled him out an pull him in a 20g by himself. But im not holding out hope here. Cause its BADDD.

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I'm glad you figured out the cause. The rapid chemistry change may have caused the aggression but at least you know that your losses were unlikely to be from a disease. This makes much more sense.
Unfortunately, once a fish becomes aggressive it is rarely safe to add back to the same tank so finding a new home for him is your best option.
 
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ddc0715

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Unfortunately, once a fish becomes aggressive it is rarely safe to add back to the same tank so finding a new home for him is your best option.
Yeah I've heard that about aggression, an its good to know it was not disease. I got him up for sale. In the selling forum. But people want to give me like 40, 30 etc. I mean, I know I cannot get retail but dang. I cannot give him way. Someone told me I can get a small one for 40 i said go get it. Thats a deal.


https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/large-sailfin-tang-must-go-asking-100-o-b-o-is-ok.767642/
 
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Seabiscuit

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Yeah I've heard that about aggression, an its good to know it was not disease. I got him up for sale. In the selling forum. But people want to give me like 40, 30 etc. I mean, I know I cannot get retail but dang. I cannot give him way. Someone told me I can get a small one for 40 i said go get it. Thats a deal.


https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/large-sailfin-tang-must-go-asking-100-o-b-o-is-ok.767642/
Do you have a local fish store that can give you store credit?
 

Brew12

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Yeah I've heard that about aggression, an its good to know it was not disease. I got him up for sale. In the selling forum. But people want to give me like 40, 30 etc. I mean, I know I cannot get retail but dang. I cannot give him way. Someone told me I can get a small one for 40 i said go get it. Thats a deal.


https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/large-sailfin-tang-must-go-asking-100-o-b-o-is-ok.767642/
It's tough.. they aren't really considered a "show fish" when they get bigger. I guess it is the lack of bright colors and the fact they are fairly easy to get to a larger size. Not to mention that there is a limited market since you need to find someone local with a 180g+ and preferably much larger system for a fish like that.
 

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