Alternatives to Digital Aquatics Probes and Parts.

[n2585722]

I thought I would start a thread where we can put probes and parts that we come across that can be used to replace the probes and parts for the RKE,RKL and Archon systems.

To start it off I will add one.

DP1

Motor pump assembly for the DP1. I found a replacement for the pump assy for the DP1. It can be purchased from Amazon.

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What I do is dissassemble the new pump assy and use the motor, roller assembly, front plate, tubing and screws in most cases. Below is the DP1 beside the pump assembly purchased from Amazon. I have already removed the tubing from the pump assy. It does come with the tubing. I ordered some tubing that was 2x4.5mm and it will not fit. I have some 2.5x4.5mm tubing on the way. If it works I will update it here. The 2.5X4.5 tubing did not work. I ordered some 2.2x4.5 tubing and installed it. It seems to work. Time will tell. Link below.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-2...002.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.77584c4dfJMfuu

Below is the parts I used to repair this DP1 from the one I purchased.

You will need to remove the back cover and unsoldier the wires at the motor of the DP1. Make a note of which wire is attached to the + terminal of the motor.

Once you have the wires unsoldiered from the motor unscrew the motor from the pump case assy. I was able to break the motor free from the glue with vicegrips while holding on to the pump case and DP1 case with my hands. The motor and pump case is glued to the DP1 case using hotmelt glue gun. If it does end up come loose you can use a glue gun to glue back.

Once the pump case is cleaned up if needed then place the new motor in the case and screw it back in. The only thing left is to soldier the wire back on the new motor making sure the same wire on the + terminal of the old motor is hooked to the + terminal of the new motor. The only issue is the direction the motor turns. If it turns the wrong way it is just a matter of swapping the wires on the motor. One you have the motor mounted and soldiered back in install the rollers and tubing and then replace the pump cover. Then reassemble the DP1 housing. You will have to calibrate the pump after doing this.

I hope this will help someone that is needing to fix a broken DP1 without too much trouble.

Secondary option: Replace entire pump assembly

To replace the entire pump assembly the assembly needs to be modified. Below is a photo showing the mounting tabs that will need to be trimmed for it to fit flush in the module housing. I used large wire cutters to help trim these.

Below is a photo after clipping the tabs back.

After trimming with the wire cutters I used a razor blade to trim any excess. Photo below before trimming it with the razor blade.

Photo below after trimming with the razor blade.

Now to dissassemble the module. Below is a photo with back cover off the module and the PC board lifted. Next the wires need to be unsoldered from the back of the motor.

Below is a photo of the PC board removed. Next would be to remove the pump assembly. It is just held in place with hot glue and can usually be twisted and pulled out with a little effort.

Below is a photo with the pump assembly removed from the module. Next would be to remove the glue from the module cover.

Below is the photo with the glue removed from the module cover. Now it is ready for install of the new pump assembly.

In the photo below I took the tubing connector from the old pump and placed them on the new pump. I also decided to leave the tubing in the pump the length it came. To do this I had to trim the 1/4" tubing attached to the tubing connector to make up for the extra length of the tubing in the pump.

I decided to come up with a different way of attaching the pump without using the glue. I happen to have some soft silicone tubing I got from BRS to attach the pump to the housing. Link here https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/white-soft-silicone-tubing-sold-by-the-foot.html

I had the 1" diameter tubing. I cut the tubing to around 3/4" in length. It requires two of these shown in photo below.

I placed the first one around the motor on the new pump assembly. This will now fit through the hole in the module housing and keep it centered. The photo below shows the tubing on the motor housing.

Below is a photo with the pump assembly placed in the housing. Next place the remaning tubing over the tubing on the motor assembly. This is a little difficult to do but it will work. Make sure the tubing is pushed down against the module housing. This will keep the pump assembly against the module housing. It can be twisted slightly to center the pump on the housing.

Photo below show pump assembly installed in module housing.

Next compare the polarity of the two motors on the pump housings. Make sure an resolder the wires back to the same connector on the new pump assembly. If you do get it backwards the pump will just run backwards. If that happens just reverse the wire connections to the motor. Also if you need to you can dissassemble the pump assembly and mount the motor 180 degrees from where it is if the polarity is reversed on the pump module and the wires wont reach.

Below is the PC board attached to the new pump assembly. I did have to flip the motor in this case. On this module the black wire was connected to the positive connection on the motor.

Below the module is back together ready for testing. The module will need a flow calibration after changing the pump assembly or the pump tubing.​

 

[Crabs McJones]

Awesome write up! Thanks for sharing that with us. Hopefully someone is able to utilize it

 

[n2585722]

Probes

pH or ORP
The DA pH and OPR probes can be replaced with any of the standard pH or ORP probes with a BNC type connector. I have used Pinpoint and BRS branded probes for this without any issues

Salinity Probe
Apparently the DA Salinity probe is a K1 type conductivity probe. I believe the later ones were actually made by Apera and was a 2301C rebranded as a DA probe with a longer cord. I purchased a DA probe recently and the 2301C was stamped on the outside of the box. I did a search using probe 2301C and found this. https://www.amazon.com/Apera-Instru...pID=210SF8iOqeL&preST=_SY445_QL70_&dpSrc=srch I purchased one and it is working and tracking like the one I purchased from DA. The only difference I can see is the name on the probe and the length of the cable.

Temp probe

JayBABQ purchased some of the temp sensors in the link below and they appear to be more stable. Thanks for the input JayBABQ.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185P4MVO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jason777 purchased some of these temp probes in the link below. They also seem to be working OK. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3VLVQ5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1

Jason777 also made some adapter cables to hook the probes to the DA modules. See post #35 in this link https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/d...be-replacement-diy.496690/page-2#post-5478974

Update: The sensors below seem to be too sensitive. The ones in the above links with the steel sleeve or plastic cover seem to be more stable. I think the stainless steel sleeve or larger mass dampens the reading by not allowing an abrupt change in the reading.

I ordered a pair of temp sensors from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074JBZ63Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

I ran some test on them comparing them with a DA temp sensor. The DA sensor was not the new probe type, but that should not matter since either should work with the systems. The test results are as follows. I ran the test at 3 different temps. Not sure how accurate the digital temp meter was, but it suppose to be within +- 3 degrees. The resistance readings were taken with the same meter within seconds of each other. From this data I believe these should work. It just depends on how well the cables will hold up to the salt water environment.

Temp in F ... New Sensor 1 ... New Sensor 2 ... DA Sensor
92.66 .............. 6.87 .................. 6.98k ............... 6.79k
75.2 ................. 9.81k ................ 9.97k .............. 9.73k
33.8 ............... 31.76k .............. 32.33k ............. 32.48k

I could not find any of my micro-fit 3.0 connectors so I just spliced one to a pre made cable to test. I calibrated it on the Archon using the single point calibration method. This is closer to what would you would get with the RKL or RKE. The ones I will be comparing it with were calibrated using the 2 point calibration so they would track with each other better.

Update: I found the micro-fit connectors so I installed a connector to the other sensor and placed it on my SL2 and did a single point calibration. It was actually within .2 degrees before calibration.
Photos are below.

OK, here are graphs from the Archon for 24hr period. The first is the Archon iTemp port with a DA temp probe. The second is a sensor I purchased on the SL2 port. The third is the second sensor on the SLX port. Both sensors are the same type. I turned off the cooling fans for awhile, then turned them on for awhile. I set them back to auto to regulate the temp.

I hope this will help anyone trying to find a probe for a Digital Aquatics RKE,RKL or Archon.

 

[pecan2phat]

+1 on the temperature probe.
Without any suitable replacements, these Controllers became problematic for heat/fan/chiller control.
I’ve already used my last backup spare probe.

 

[n2585722]

Switch Inputs
The switch inputs along with the temp input on the SL and SW modules use Molex Micro-fit 3.0 connectors. For anyone needing the cables and do not have the proper crimper. There are cables with the sockets pre crimped on one end. If you have the correct crimper and want to make your own cables the socket is also listed below. Hope this helps anyone looking for these cables.

Black wire
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0430300001-12-B2/0430300001-12-B2-ND/5962942

Red wire
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0430300003-12-R0/0430300003-12-R0-ND/5963223

Connector
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=43645-0200

Socket
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0430300003/WM2776CT-ND/1132453

Photo of connectors and sockets below.

 

[n2585722]

+1 on the temperature probe.
Without any suitable replacements, these Controllers became problematic for heat/fan/chiller control.
I’ve already used my last backup spare probe.

I have a couple on order to test.

 

[jd371]

+1 on the temperature probe.
Without any suitable replacements, these Controllers became problematic for heat/fan/chiller control.
I’ve already used my last backup spare probe.

Me too, this past weekend I needed to replace the probe with my back up.

I have a couple on order to test.

Outstanding! Looking forward to your results.

 

[n2585722]

I got the temp sensors I ordered and edited the post for the probes with the updated information. So far looks good.

 

[bobyboy]

Looks good, is it possible to edit everything into the first post?

 

[pecan2phat]

RKL users without a SL1 module would have to use a RJ11 connector?
Guess there are no probe type sources vs these wire type.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Plenty of used parts and new out there. Try Ebay, clearance sections of vendors, wanted in this forum , etc

 

[scchase]

The cables are RJ12 (6P6C), any length seems to work, I have bought some that are 25 ft and no problems

 

[Solis Reef]

Good post thanks

 

[n2585722]

I added some graphs to the post about the probes.

 

[n2585722]

Looks good, is it possible to edit everything into the first post?

I started the post so that if anyone comes across something that works they can add it to this thread. I don't think they would be able to edit the first post to add them there.

 

[Jon Snow]

Hi everybody,

I just got a stand with and RKL plus built into it the only thing it doesn’t have is the Sid v2. I’ve tried a factory reset and cannot seem to rename/assign the outlet channels for the life of me.

Would any usb to RJ12 work? If so have you find a reliable source?

Channel 1 once PCS 1 is always ATO and I don’t have an ATO.

I have the MyReef software just no way to connect to it

 

[n2585722]

You will need the SID to use myReef. All the systems came with one. You can only change the names with myReef. You can still program it to do what you want regardless of the name givien though. It could be a small black box with a RJ12 jack in one end and a usb jack in the other. The original ones were like that.

 

[n2585722]

I had someone that needed to do an interrupted update and remembered copying it from the DA website and posting it to help someone with doing this. I am reposting the instructions in this thread for anyone that may need to do this. If you copy and repost these make sure and give credit to Digital Aquatics for the original post. The only reason you probably would need to do this is if a module is inadvertently programmed with another module at the same time.

Interrupted Update Process

To perform an "Interrupted Update,” go through the Update steps below until step 7. Once the green progress bar in your MyReef screen starts to move, unplug the module from the SID (not the SID from the computer). After MyReef completes the update, it will display an error message, "Update Failed."

Unplug the SID, close MyReef, then restart MyReef. Once MyReef is restarted, reconnect the SID. When the SID appears in the MyReef software, reconnect your Module to the SID. MyReef will show it as "?????", and you can select the appropriate Module from the list and it will reassign a new serial number. You can then re-update the unit by following the Update steps again, without the interruption.

The order in which things occur can be very important, so please be sure to follow the steps closely.

How to Update the Module

Do not attempt to update any of the modules while they are connected together, even if the software indicates that they need updating. Each module must be updated individually.

Here are the steps you should take to update the Module:

From a fresh restart of the computer, please make sure the SID is not connected to the computer and is not connected to the ReefKeeper system. The module should be unplugged from the power outlet or powered off.

1. Open the MyReef software application
2. Connect your SID to your computer via USB.
3. In myReef, verify that the SID shows up under “Systems” in the left hand tree view.
4. Plug in ONLY your Module. It should appear under the SID in the “Systems” on the left hand tree view.
5. Click on the ‘Update” button to the right of the Module. MyReef will display the firmware update screen and automatically select the most recent firmware version to update.
6. Click the “Program” button. The progress bar at the top of the screen will begin to move.
7. Once the Module has been updated successfully, verify that MyReef correctly reports the current firmware.
8. Close MyReef and disconnect the SID from the computer as well as the module.

Once that is complete, plug the module back into the ReefKeeper system.

 

[n2585722]

Update:
I got the 4.5mm OD * 2.5mm ID tubing. The ID is a little larger than the original tubing. I ordered some 4.3mm OD * 2.3 ID to try it. The 4.5mm OD * 2.5 mm ID will work if I add some scotch tape to the inside of the housing. Otherwise it will not quite pinch the tubing with the rollers. Also One of the temp sensors has drifted quite a bit. I am thinking the epoxy may not be leak tight. So I removed both for the time being.

 

[primo21]

Any alternatives to the DCI connection cable to the head unit?