Alternatives to Digital Aquatics Probes and Parts.

[NVCyberPro]

On ebay I bought a RKL and 2 PC4's and a Temp Probe, my instructions show plugging the temp probe directly into the RKL however the RKL has a phone jack and the Temp probe does not. Do I need another module or can I put a a new plug on the temp probe, if so what pins do I wire it to? Thanks in advance.

 

[redfishbluefish]

I have both old Reefkeeper 2's and Reefkeeper Lites, and both use temperature probes with telephone type jacks plugged directly into the PC4 or PC8.

PC8:

PC4:

And the typical temperature probe you get with Reefkeeper is what they term an Itemp Probe....it looks similar to an pH probe:

I can't remember the person's screen name, but we have a ReefKeeper expert on here that I'm hoping @Crabs McJones can remember his name. (Thanks Crabs!)

 

[Crabs McJones]

@n2585722

 

[redfishbluefish]

@n2585722

That's the guy.....thanks Zach. Hopefully he can add to the limited knowledge I have.

 

[n2585722]

On ebay I bought a RKL and 2 PC4's and a Temp Probe, my instructions show plugging the temp probe directly into the RKL however the RKL has a phone jack and the Temp probe does not. Do I need another module or can I put a a new plug on the temp probe, if so what pins do I wire it to? Thanks in advance.

See post #144 for a photo. The type of plug is a 6 pin RJ11 or RJ12. It depends on who you are talking to which one it is. You can get the plug and the crimper at Lowes or Home Depot. You probably have the regular temp probe used with the SL modules with a microfit 3.0 connector. The probles are the same with the exception of the plug used to connect it to the system. The iTemp probe just plugs into an unused buss port on the last module in the system. The actual temp port it is connecting to is in the RKL head unit. The RKE head unit does not have this port, but came with one of the SL modules and came with the regulat temp probe.

 

[philshel]

See post #144 for a photo. The type of plug is a 6 pin RJ11 or RJ12. It depends on who you are talking to which one it is. You can get the plug and the crimper at Lowes or Home Depot. You probably have the regular temp probe used with the SL modules with a microfit 3.0 connector. The probles are the same with the exception of the plug used to connect it to the system. The iTemp probe just plugs into an unused buss port on the last module in the system. The actual temp port it is connecting to is in the RKL head unit. The RKE head unit does not have this port, but came with one of the SL modules and came with the regulat temp probe.

Just as clarification for those of us non-experts. Are you saying that the "itemp" style can be plugged into any of the open bus ports? So my unit's have the microfit style of connectors and plug into the sl or slx, but can I use an itemp in my open bus ports? (that sounded dirty!)

 

[n2585722]

Just as clarification for those of us non-experts. Are you saying that the "itemp" style can be plugged into any of the open bus ports? So my unit's have the microfit style of connectors and plug into the sl or slx, but can I use an itemp in my open bus ports? (that sounded dirty!)

The iTemp probe or the one with the RJ type plug can only be used with a RKL or in the dedicated port for it on the Archon. With the RKE you have to use the one with a microfit 3.0 connector. Yes you can use any open buss port for the iTemp on a RKL system. The only issue is all the connectors it goes through to get back to the RKL head unit will add resistance and an error to the reading. Since the RKL will only work with 4 modules this does not normally become an issue unless long buss cables are used.

 

[philshel]

The iTemp probe or the one with the RJ type plug can only be used with a RKL or in the dedicated port for it on the Archon. With the RKE you have to use the one with a microfit 3.0 connector. Yes you can use any open buss port for the iTemp on a RKL system. The only issue is all the connectors it goes through to get back to the RKL head unit will add resistance and an error to the reading. Since the RKL will only work with 4 modules this does not normally become an issue unless long buss cables are used.

Ahh, so the difference is in the head units. Thanks for the clarification.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Sl1 or SL2 will have inputs

 

[n2585722]

Ahh, so the difference is in the head units. Thanks for the clarification.

You got it. The reasoning was that the RKL was a entry level unit which originally sold with the RKL head unit, PC4 and the iTemp for $100 This made it competive as a temp controller with added benifits. To do this they decided to place a temp port inside the head unit but didn't want to add the port connector to the RKL itself. There were two unused wires in the buss so those were used instead. They limited the RKL to 4 modules in the hopes that you would like the controller and use it for more uses leading you to upgrade to the RKE. But a lot of people started buying the entry level RKL to get a spare PC4 for thier RKE since it was essentially the same price. In the end if I remember correctly the price increased on the entry level model to discourage this from happening. They also at a latter time removed the NET module as counting as one of the 4 modules. So now you can add up to 4 active modules plus the NET module. The HUB module does not count toward the module count either but it never did.

 

[n2585722]

Sl1 or SL2 will have inputs

Yes the SL1, SL2 and SLX all have the standard temp ports. If I remember correctly though the ready fit function such as heater, fan and chiller will not work with those ports on the RKL. You can use the controller function and do the same thing as the other functions with those ports. Ecentually the heater, fan and chiller function are just the controller function with some settings preset and unchangeable so you don't have to set them.

 

[NVCyberPro]

I have both old Reefkeeper 2's and Reefkeeper Lites, and both use temperature probes with telephone type jacks plugged directly into the PC4 or PC8.

PC8:

PC4:

And the typical temperature probe you get with Reefkeeper is what they term an Itemp Probe....it looks similar to an pH probe:

I can't remember the person's screen name, but we have a ReefKeeper expert on here that I'm hoping @Crabs McJones can remember his name. (Thanks Crabs!)

Thank you, that is what I thought, mine came with a two pin connector of some sorts. Can you post a close up picture of yours that shows what color wire goes to each connector? I can then crimp a new connector onto my probe to match yours.

 

[n2585722]

Thank you, that is what I thought, mine came with a two pin connector of some sorts. Can you post a close up picture of yours that shows what color wire goes to each connector? I can then crimp a new connector onto my probe to match yours.

Post #144 in this thread has a photo. There is no polarity on a thermistor. Just make sure the two wires are in the right place on the connector.

 

[cjldad]

So I've been following this thread for a while.. My Reefkeeper Lite is still working just fine.. Except for maybe the iTemp seems to be really sensitive with the cable.. Anyhow, some of the items I use have FW that is newer than what is included in the MyReef 2.0. Is there any way that is know to pull the FW off so others can utilize it?

 

[n2585722]

So I've been following this thread for a while.. My Reefkeeper Lite is still working just fine.. Except for maybe the iTemp seems to be really sensitive with the cable.. Anyhow, some of the items I use have FW that is newer than what is included in the MyReef 2.0. Is there any way that is know to pull the FW off so others can utilize it?

Are referring to firmware for the modules? If so which modules do you need firmware for? Most have not changed in several year. Let us know which firmware version you already have on each module. If I have an mewer version I can send it to you if you PM me with you email address.

 

[cjldad]

Are referring to firmware for the modules? If so which modules do you need firmware for? Most have not changed in several year. Let us know which firmware version you already have on each module. If I have an mewer version I can send it to you if you PM me with you email address.

Hey there, no I was simply stating I have some newer FW than what is included with the MyReef 2.0 software.. Like my ALC has 0209 and the MyReef 2.0 only has 0208.. Was wondering if I could pull it off for people to use..

Since you seem to know a lot about these units, do you know of any way to stabilize the 1-10V on the ALC units? They fluctuate a little and you can see the lights pulse some times.. I've seen some references to an op-amp circuit, but I can't find anything that discusses that in detail.. Thanks so much..

 

[n2585722]

You cannot do it with myReef besides I have 2.09 for the ALC. That was what I was getting at. If I have them there is no need to pull them from the modules. I can send them to you. Then you can place them in the correct folder for myReef and you will also have them in myReef.

Is the bump in lighting you are seeing happening to raise or lower the light intensity. It doesn't do it gradual it is in steps. I quit using the ALC since the drivers I was trying to use would nit turn on until the lighting would get to 10%. The lights were then on at 10%. I use PWM outputs on my Archon and a AVC module to control lighting. Even that goes up or down it steps though. Also if you are using the RKE it has a storm mode that will mimic lightning. That will cause the lighting to randomly flicker. Not sure if the lite support that are not. It has been so long I don't remember for sure.

 

[cjldad]

You cannot do it with myReef besides I have 2.09 for the ALC. That was what I was getting at. If I have them there is no need to pull them from the modules. I can send them to you. Then you can place them in the correct folder for myReef and you will also have them in myReef.

Is the bump in lighting you are seeing happening to raise or lower the light intensity. It doesn't do it gradual it is in steps. I quit using the ALC since the drivers I was trying to use would nit turn on until the lighting would get to 10%. The lights were then on at 10%. I use PWM outputs on my Archon and a AVC module to control lighting. Even that goes up or down it steps though. Also if you are using the RKE it has a storm mode that will mimic lightning. That will cause the lighting to randomly flicker. Not sure if the lite support that are not. It has been so long I don't remember for sure.

Understood on the FW..

I can watch the voltage coming out of the ALC and it jumps around.. For the most part it will jump around in small increments. Really, it's like 99% good. But sometimes it will drop to 9.5v (where is usually holds around 9.9v) for just an instance but quick enough for my logging meter to register it.. Of course the lights notice that type of change.. As for the ramping feature, I use some BeamsWork lights to fill in the front and back of the tank.. They come on at 0 and after I ramp them all the way up, I turn on my good old Build My Led fixture.. The BML fixture comes on low enough not to notice with the BeamsWork units all the way up.. Then I ramp up the BML fixture. All in all, the ramp effect works well, and I can accept a little flickering during that.. It's once everything is running at 100% that I would expect it to hold pretty steady..
Thanks for the help anyhow.. I'll keep plugging along and try to figure out something...

 

[n2585722]

Let me know what firmware you don't have in myReef for you modules by PM with you email and I can send it to you. I usually send a email for each module and state which folder to add the files to.

It has been a few years since I messes with the ALC. I stopped using it when I got the Archon since it had two PWM outputs. When I was using it the 0-10v outputs were inputed into a microprocessor and converted to PWM. I also decoded the Serial out with the same microprocessor. If I remember correctly the microprocessor I had it programmed so it could not change very rapidly if the input did. Like I said that was a long time ago and I abandon that project when I got the Archon. I never got past breadbording on that project. Photo below. I don't run my LED's at 100%. I think 55% is the max at this time.

 

[pecan2phat]

All the Meanwell LED drivers won't light with the ALC until 10~11% but I had a few Thompson Research LED drivers that worked well with the ALC module. Don't know if they are still produced, originally got them from Canada.