Ammonia levels at 1.0 - 2.0 ppm after Aquariam Move

[cnfarinella]

the unfortunate steadfast rule is twofold:

if you broken any aseptic chain of command lately and its tied to a fish wipeout, even if some other possible contributor may have caused the fish kill, you must re fallow your system from fish disease and I'd choose the long version, not the short version, because half efforts aren't rock and roll.

full efforts are, complete command in reef cycling is what you want.


to find out what killed your fish is the #1 goal, the ammonia stated as is/nh4/not benched off any other kit/ isn't even a factor whatsoever.



if you feel the chain of disease inputs remained controlled and it was only a move stress, then buy some new fish and add them. make sure they're prepped.


your fish will swim, eat and feed normally because your tank is so cycled. if api shows something wonky, consider the last 2 pages + buy a seneye, you'll feel much better about it all with a $190 meter for something we can predict in all reef tanks to a T, and log it constantly.

Thanks for all the detailed information. I do Appreciate it. Sorry I cant reply that much because I am driving

 

[brandon429]

I think your thread will be a helpful one for others in the future especially on costly home moves. can chat later np

you're going to be amazed when you see the infection on that other gentleman's arm in 265 reef thread when he rip cleaned a 200+ gallon tank all at once. that moving company may have saved you hidden pain, really. now the rest is in your control that's pretty good outlook for the new tank.

the thread 265 reef is the first time since remote nerd reefing online since 2001 that I thought a fellow human reefer might not recover. the thread affected the hound out of me. I instantly went and reminded all surgical threads: hey, your arm can fall off

treat this literally like surgery, or you'll need surgery

 

[damsels are not mean]

Threads like these show that live rock is overrated in the ammonia brakedown proces. Nitrifying bacteria don't like light so they don't grow as much on live rock, more on media in the sump area, glass/inside hoses etcetera. Dark places.

you made that up

There are many things possible here. It could be that the sandbed was a major bacteria house without which your tank could not process that full bioload. It's also possible things that were alive in the rocks didn't make it and caused a dieoff beyond what your tank could process.

 

[PeterEde]

Any chance not using the old sand left the system lacking in bacteria to handle the size tank?

 

[brandon429]

no.

the reason why is we charted that for fifty straight pages with no outliers here.

He'd have to grossly undercut the # of live rock transferred over, down by 80% or more, to be short on activated surface area.

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...

www.reef2reef.com

where I get those ratio guesses from: buried in here are lots of jobs where we culled live rock, for a more open scape, skipping the cycle upon rebuild, with either no sand at all/instantly removed or with all new sand, like this tank here.

these are well established issues by thread works, but the null claim is solely from accepting anyone's nh4 relay no matter how high they claim it is.

once someone agrees that an api ammonia kit can misread, that its capable of misreading, or stalling a reading drop whereas a digital ammonia tracker like seneye shows a ten minute change average, we can then consider times there could be a misread or a misrelay and that not a single thing is wrong with this surface area, or biofilter.

coming in pics/couple hours drumroll still left heh

 

[brandon429]

Peter your tank stands out markedly. your ammonia was exactly like this one, remember your starting cycle troubleshoot we did


you had plenty of rock, but a stuck reading/we fixed exactly like this tank. an nh4 vs nh3 clarification, a consideration of rock origin + number of days underwater and degree of placement in a clean tank carrying all live animals

we ignored the initial stated ammonia concern.

 

[brandon429]

Warter Parameters help

Just wanted to see what's everyone's opinion is on how these look????

www.reef2reef.com

case study for cycle umps.

let's say someone posts this pic: is my tank cycled

you resoundingly reply:


heck no. not in anyone's book, not ever, not any case, if you add fish to that they'll be dead, etc

all the fear. clearly that kit says 1.0 ppm all day long into tomorrow, its doom water.
and nitrite, ooh.

but read the thread above and keep relating that to the prediction for pics coming up here, the ratios. the water clarity, the coralline, the plenty dilution, the api reading showing 1 ppm etc or higher

the thread shows the plainest misread that could possible generate false stuck cycle search returns, and every ump here would agree that pic is of an uncycled reef, because api can't be wrong, not ever.

he has living fish and about 20 or so pounds of real coralline covered live rock, moved into his tank, with fish that swim normally and feed daily in clean water.



but the pic says: fail. see how that duality can exist? allow for that in troubleshoots.

even after nh3 conversion, that reading is flat wrong. that's too green to be ok, we needed closer to yellow, or at worst, very light green. api believers can't just randomly select the entire color spectrum as a zero confirmation.

what happened above in this post is what happend to the Op's tank in this thread, there's a match for every form of cycle in pattern

 

[PeterEde]

Maybe tank should have been left 24 hours to settle after move before re adding fish?

 

[MnFish1]

Yet - all thats required - instead of debate - is a seachem alert badge

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Yet - all thats required - instead of debate - is a seachem alert badge

I second this, but add the below.

Small rock from top of tank swished in a bucket of old water. Just to see if any crud comes out. For all we know, there could be crud from old tank now causing issues, as it is being broken down by bacteria. Will not hurt a thing in the tank and will give some assurance that when new things are added, critters will not dislodge crud and cause issues in the future. By issues, I mean possible ammonia spikes, but more likely po4 and no3 issues.

 

[PeterEde]

Peter your tank stands out markedly. your ammonia was exactly like this one, remember your starting cycle troubleshoot we did


you had plenty of rock, but a stuck reading/we fixed exactly like this tank. an nh4 vs nh3 clarification, a consideration of rock origin + number of days underwater and degree of placement in a clean tank carrying all live animals

we ignored the initial stated ammonia concern.

You helped me immensely Brandon. Thanks
I read so much regarding reef chemistry regarding Ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrites.
My tank is now coming to 3 months with 8 fish, heaps of other inverts and my numbers are pretty steady except nitrates. Probably over feeding and not changing sock enough.

 

[brandon429]

Peter

there is another thread available/you can tell we don't run short on linkable threads lol but I dont want to link because the writer doesn't like to be called out for something we're not sure about, neither would I.

but the gist of the thread was ~200 gallon setup, moved to new home, new sand (see how close it matches so far to this job) and only 1 handful of old sand added to the tank unrinsed, from the prior system. as seed

the existing fish were moved over and in the tank a while before the sand. the massive dieoff of fish didn't kill corals or inverts, only fish and came delayed after one handful of sand was given.

who knows what that factor may be/we'll never know. so if transferring any form of waste or attached detritus happened on the rocks, in a big tank move that seems fair it could mimic the handful of sand thing.

so given time to adjust seems fair call.

 

[MnFish1]

I second this, but add the below.

Small rock from top of tank swished in a bucket of old water. Just to see if any crud comes out. For all we know, there could be crud from old tank now causing issues, as it is being broken down by bacteria. Will not hurt a thing in the tank and will give some assurance that when new things are added, critters will not dislodge crud and cause issues in the future. By issues, I mean possible ammonia spikes, but more likely po4 and no3 issues.

Die Teufel Hunden sind sogar normalweise total klar und haben recht

 

[MnFish1]

Warter Parameters help

Just wanted to see what's everyone's opinion is on how these look????

www.reef2reef.com

case study for cycle umps.

let's say someone posts this pic: is my tank cycled

you resoundingly reply:


heck no. not in anyone's book, not ever, not any case, if you add fish to that they'll be dead, etc

all the fear. clearly that kit says 1.0 ppm all day long into tomorrow, its doom water.
and nitrite, ooh.

but read the thread above and keep relating that to the prediction for pics coming up here, the ratios. the water clarity, the coralline, the plenty dilution, the api reading showing 1 ppm etc or higher

the thread shows the plainest misread that could possible generate false stuck cycle search returns, and every ump here would agree that pic is of an uncycled reef, because api can't be wrong, not ever.

he has living fish and about 20 or so pounds of real coralline covered live rock, moved into his tank, with fish that swim normally and feed daily in clean water.



but the pic says: fail. see how that duality can exist? allow for that in troubleshoots.

even after nh3 conversion, that reading is flat wrong. that's too green to be ok, we needed closer to yellow, or at worst, very light green. api believers can't just randomly select the entire color spectrum as a zero confirmation.

what happened above in this post is what happend to the Op's tank in this thread, there's a match for every form of cycle in pattern

First - the picture youre showing is not how the test is supposed to be read - its supposed to be read against a white background - in a daylight form. So before I go to bed - I'll say - youre posting garbage. No conclusions at all can be made from That picture - first - the pH can been much higher than it appears, Second - the Nitrate/nitrite may be interacting - such that its impossible to determine that. Third - one example does not have anything to do with another tank. for the main reason - everyone does a given test differently.