Amphipods Eating My Zoas Help!

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R33fDaddy

R33fDaddy

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Get a 6 line Wrasse in there to eat them?
This could be an option. Only draw back is that I would have to Quarantine the Wrasse in my Hospital Tank before moving it to my Coral Quarantine which would take at least a week. I could just take a chance and put the wrasse directly into my Coral Quarantine Tank but that would be risky. Everything in my Coral Quarantine Tank has been in there over a month and has about 34 more days of QT left. If I drop the wrasse in their I'd have to start QT for that tank all over.
 

elysics

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Keep in mind that the wrasse will invalidate your quarantine, and probably only control their numbers not eradicated them, but as an immediate measure it might be worth it

Still would frag the zoas off so the pods don't finish them off in the mean time
 
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+1 on wrasse!
My pods where literally trying to climb out of my tables when I put wrasse in.
I cant tell you the satisfaction of watching wrasse catch the pods and violent shake/shred these pods against rocks. Totally gratifying feeling.
Wrasse love them
My Coral Quarantine Tank is 20 Gallon Waterbox Cube with no lid. Would this be okay for a six line wrasse for 60 days or so?
 
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Keep in mind that the wrasse will invalidate your quarantine, and probably only control their numbers not eradicated them, but as an immediate measure it might be worth it

Still would frag the zoas off so the pods don't finish them off in the mean time
Yes this seems like my two options, trying to figure out what's best right now.

If I frag them they still would have to live in my Quarantine Tank for another 30 days. Wouldn't the Amphipods just find that frag tonight when they come out of hiding? Or are you suggesting I frag them and move them some where else?
 

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My Coral Quarantine Tank is 20 Gallon Waterbox Cube with no lid. Would this be okay for a six line wrasse for 60 days or so?
Yup get yourself a juvenile.
Its nearly impossible to eradicate these pods. Very likely eggs will be transferred to DT but as long as you have fish that eat pods in DT you should be fine.

Make sure you cover tank with something so wrasse can't carpet surf.
 
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My Coral Quarantine Tank is 20 Gallon Waterbox Cube with no lid. Would this be okay for a six line wrasse for 60 days or so?
I think that would be fine, he could jump I suppose. If the tank is fishless other than the Wrasse is there really a concern for QT?
 
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Another Question, should I remove this media bag that I have the tank? I believe this is where they are breeding or whatever you call it lol. This tank is bare bottom and I'm sure this media bag is helping to keep my Nitrates and everything in check.
20210513_124418.jpg
 

elysics

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Yes this seems like my two options, trying to figure out what's best right now.

If I frag them they still would have to live in my Quarantine Tank for another 30 days. Wouldn't the Amphipods just find that frag tonight when they come out of hiding? Or are you suggesting I frag them and move them some where else?
Yes, like o said in my first comment, move them into a fish hatching box or a container with holes drilled into it that is then placed at the top of the tank, amphipods will have difficulties getting there
 
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I think that would be fine, he could jump I suppose. If the tank is fishless other than the Wrasse is there really a concern for QT?
The Major concern would be interrupting my QT Process. I have a 90 Day QT process that everything goes through before entering my Display Tank. I also would have to get the Wrasse from Petco because I know it'll be cheap and they always have them. I'm giving WWC and this other place near me a call now to see if they have a six line in case I choose this route.
 

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Another Question, should I remove this media bag that I have the tank? I believe this is where they are breeding or whatever you call it lol. This tank is bare bottom and I'm sure this media bag is helping to keep my Nitrates and everything in check.
20210513_124418.jpg
Removing the bag won't do much good.
They are pretty well nestled in to rocks, algae and everywhere else they can hide.
 

SteveRepp

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I had a pod overpopulation/ I infestation problem a while ago .... but between my pipefish and Copperband the phenomenon never occurred again. Matter of fact ; my Copperband whom I got over a month ago, still doesn’t take food from me, since she’s feasting on pods like crazy ...It actually still surprises me, since my tank is just over a month old . Although I moved TONS of very old life rock ( overgrown by this short stubby macro algae) from the small tanks when I set up the 200 gal one .... In short ; get pod predators in your tank immediately !
 

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I had a pod overpopulation/ I infestation problem a while ago .... but between my pipefish and Copperband the phenomenon never occurred again. Matter of fact ; my Copperband whom I got over a month ago, still doesn’t take food from me, since she’s feasting on pods like crazy ...It actually still surprises me, since my tank is just over a month old . Although I moved TONS of very old life rock ( overgrown by this short stubby macro algae) from the small tanks when I set up the 200 gal one .... In short ; get pod predators in your tank immediately !
Agreed. Wrasse or Pod eating fish with mouth big enough to eat these size pods will do the job pretty quickly.
My wrasse went right to work immediately and never stopped.
 

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The Major concern would be interrupting my QT Process. I have a 90 Day QT process that everything goes through before entering my Display Tank. I also would have to get the Wrasse from Petco because I know it'll be cheap and they always have them. I'm giving WWC and this other place near me a call now to see if they have a six line in case I choose this route.
If you can go and physically watch what the wrasse is doing before you buy it thats how id do it.
I observed my wrasse plucking pods of rocks at my lfs and thats the one I got.
He immediately went in the tank and went to work.
 

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The same thing happened to me while I let my reef go fallow, giant amphiapods started munching healthy zoas....as soon as my pygmy perchlet was back in there it stopped...haven't seen the big ones since
 
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Pods generally dont do this. Could be other circumstances. Zoas are hardy yet can be tricky but with a mature tank - should be supporting most anything in line of coral.
First to say, buying quality test kits are not just a must but should be a priority as it seems things go wrong on a Sunday night when all stores are closed and the first thing we do when issues arise is to test water. If it API kits you are using- there is a high likelihood you ARE GETTING FALSE READINGS. So lets skip the speech on water and talk about zoas. Zoas must have iodide, not iodine in their water and under moderate light and water flow. They seem to do best in the lower half to third of the tank in an area of low-medium to medium-high flow. Too much flow may make it hard for the polyps to open. You will know your zoanthids are ‘happy’ if they open up and are fully extended without seeming to stretch so far upright.. The majority of zoanthids have symbiotic photosynthetic zooxanthellae (I dare you to try and say that three times quickly) and are therefore best kept with at least moderate aquarium lighting as mentioned for production of zooxanthele.
Zoanthids require the standard water parameters that are good for keeping just about any of your corals healthy. You’re aiming for water temperature about 78 F, salinity somewhere around 1.025 specific gravity) and normal hardness 8-11 dKH) and a pH around 8.1-8.3.
However, if your polyps were previously open and have recently closed up, this should be taken as a serious sign of a water parameters issue. The first things I would check are ph and salinity. In my experience, zoas will close up if there are swings in salinity.
One disease that seems to disproportionately impacts these corals is something called zoa pox or zoanthid pox. Zoa pox is the name given to the zoanthid disease characterized by tiny growths on the side of the affected zoas. I’m not sure whether the growths/pustules themselves irritate the polyps and cause them to close up, or if the coral is otherwise sickly and closed up (therefore showing the zoa pox), but the bottom line is that if you see zoa pox, you have a sick coral.
Lastly, check for Super tiny spiders or nudibranchs which will take them down in No time. If you see these pests, start looking for eggs which are future pests to cause further problems. Hope this Helps !!!
 
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R33fDaddy

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Thanks for all the help everyone, I really appreciate it.

I have two options right now:

1. Frag off the Zoas (dip them) and place them in some kind of container that the Amphipods can't get to.

2. Get a Six line wrasse.

I'd also like to see what everyone thinks about a fresh water dip for that entire rock? Would that kill off any Amphipods that could be hiding?
 

LRT

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Thanks for all the help everyone, I really appreciate it.

I have two options right now:

1. Frag off the Zoas (dip them) and place them in some kind of container that the Amphipods can't get to.

2. Get a Six line wrasse.

I'd also like to see what everyone thinks about a fresh water dip for that entire rock? Would that kill off any Amphipods that could be hiding?
It would most likely kill or at least remove majority of them but they well most likely be back within a week or 2.
Ive scrubbed and power blasted all my rock with fresh water at this point. Does nothing but knock them back.
If your seeing infestation I'm sure there's tons of babies your not seeing along with tons of eggs.
6 line or any fish that eats pods with big enough mouth is your best action at this point.
 

LRT

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Do you have wrasse or pod eating fish in your DT?
You do have another option. Completely frag everything off those rocks and hope and pray you got every egg and baby or your DT will have these lovely, mess making critters forever it seems like.
Or get a wrasse and other natural pod predator fish to handle the invasion.
 
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R33fDaddy

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Do you have wrasse or pod eating fish in your DT?
You do have another option. Completely frag everything off those rocks and hope and pray you got every egg and baby or your DT will have these lovely, mess making critters forever it seems like.
Or get a wrasse and other natural pod predator fish to handle the invasion.
I have a bunch of Coral on this rock, not sure I'm skilled enough to take it all off at once. I may actually have to pay some one with a lot of experience to frag the stuff of the rocks. I will absolutely not put any of these corals in my DT until my Quarantine Aquarium looks acceptable and pest free.
 
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