Sorry I forgot to specify which was which. The two brownish ones on the right are nitrate and nitrite, the bright red one is the hardness, the blue green one next to it is the alkalinity and the one on the far right is the pH.Sorry, I'm not particularly familiar with reading this kind of test strip. I see on the bottle where is says read first, read second, etc. Do you read from right to left or left to right?
How are you calibrating your refractometer?
Depending on what is in your tap water, using tap water to fill your system may not have been an issue. However, if there is metal or other contaminants beyond just calcium and magnesium in your tap water I would recommend using RO or distilled water for managing top offs to keep salinity stable between water changes. You could see if there are water tests of your schools water. How is she managing topping off water for the tank? RODI tends to be the most effective and inexpensive long term for most tanks.
I'm not an expert, but I've generally heard it's safer to bring salinity down more quickly but better to bring it up more slowly. If your refractometer is properly calibrated, you should be able to bring it down close to 35ppm with a single water change, since you only have clownfish in the system.
The refractometer is the one that we got from Bulk Reef Supply and I have been checking it with the calibration fluid that came with it that is supposed to be 35 ppm.
The tap water here is very hard but I think that is is mainly calcium and magnesium. I use it in the fresh water tanks all the time, but I use prime as a dechlorinator and it also can remove heavy metals (the cichlids love the hard water). We are in the process of getting a RODI filter but we do not have it yet. We are going to use distilled water to do this water change.