Analyzing Hanna Ammonia checker Hi784, chemistry and performance

brandon429

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To show an example of what I'm meaning:

Lasse would you post the link for the aquarium you saw posted that indeed stalled. Not a high bioload aquaculture tank, a home reef tank with it's typical ratios of water to rock to fish %


the link for the example

Not your summary of it, let me do my own takeaway and verification of stall... please post the independent link proof thread for us to read.

There will be a life consequence with a true stall, it's not just a test kit readout. Any system that can't carry a common reef bioload, with daily feed, and metabolic totals daily, is on a *compounding* ammonia issue mode it's not like a real loss cascade holds at one reported level for days.

Things die in the unready reef, fact. I'm not buying into 20 yrs of claimed totally symptomless no-death ammonia 'crashes' from the hobby BUT I do believe you of all people here has seen the real crash, the event where ammonia or nitrite suppression levels were reached

An aquaculture scientist sees those rare events in settings other than a reef thread which represents all tanks we'll ever consult for cycling challenges.

lemme see the thread. Not a university study link, or book entry: a real crashing cascading reef example you saw, pinned to certain ammonia stalling.

* if this is a tank you saw in person and are relaying I still believe you 100%. Today's ratios and setup habits copied among peers are ready by day ten except for extreme cases, that's my claim. Any test container other than a common big old messy reef tank is subject to variations that may alter test validity, in my opinion. Gotta be a real home reef event, the rate claimed 14+ day/ can't move low level ammonia one single bit/ stall. That'll be a messy tank, crashing, that won't carry life. Consequences other than just a bad test reading will be in place



Ammonia stalling won't happen in the typical home setting of a common normal thirty gallon reef tank set up messily like res publica will do/ extra inoculation/ then feed it like we do and wait ten days then get a calibrated seneye to show me it's stalled. That's the required proof bar, if not a very convincing thread link I can read instead.
 

Lasse

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Lasse would you post the link for the aquarium you saw posted that indeed stalled
I do not base my thoughts on posted aquariums - I base my knowledge of real events that I have been part of by myself and done the measurements by myself or by coworkers - using right equipment's - not hobby based. Either you believe me or you do not - I do not care.

Sincerely Lasse
 

mmorrison55

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I personally had wait until my NO2 is below 0.2 mg/L. In your case it means around 60 ppb NO2-N. But that´s me and I have never started an aquarium that result in high NO3 levels - I chose other methods instead. You are (IMO) in a situation where the question is not what is good to do - instead the question is - which path is the least bad. Its only you that can decide that. Maybe you should continue dosing bacteria - wait some days and if nothing change - do a WC

I would not add any CUC before you turn your light on. I´m a little concern about nassarius snails in the start - they do not eat algae - they are scavengers and eat also organic detritus in the sand, A newly started aquarium is poor in these foods and do not grow like algae.

Sincerely Lasse
Gotcha and thanks.. I’m ok to dose a bit more bacteria and wait and see what my nitrites do.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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mmorrison55

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mmorrison55

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Gave it a read, seems I likely am ok since all of my reading are in PPb on my Hannah ulr checker, and your article shows toxicity in marine fish > 330 ppm.

I check nitrites again in the am and if it’s reading too high for the ulr checker to register, I’ll try to dilute it as Lasse had suggested doing with the ammonia test. I’d like to at least get a reading to get a general ballpark of where my true nitrites are at. PPb or ppm.
 

Lasse

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Its a little bit more complicated with the Hanna Nitrite checker - it shows in ppb (µg/L) NO2-N. Its only the N part that that the checker report. It means that you have first to convert NO2-N into NO2. The N part has the molecular mass of 14 and each O part has 16 as molecular mass . N = 14 NO2 = 46 (14+2*16) To convert NO2- N concentrations to NO2 concentrations you need to multiplicate with 46/14 = 3.29. its means that i you read 100 ppb (µg/L) NO2-N it will be 329 ppb (µg/L) NO2. 1 ppm (1mg/L) = 1000 ppb (µg/L) and you want the answer in ppm (mg/L). Divide with 1000 and you are home. 100 ppb (µg/L) NO2-N is 0.329 ppm (mg/L) NO2

Example you read x ppb (µg/L) NO2-N on the Hanna Ultra Low marine nitrite method - the formula to convert this into ppm (mg/L) NO2 is x*3,29/1000

Note - I use 1 ppb = 1 µg/L. Its not complete the truth but its close enough for our purposes in this case

general ballpark
Here Google goes nuts but because I´m in teaching mode - American "general ballpark" = Swenglish "between the thumb and the index finger" ;)


Sincerely Lasse
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Gave it a read, seems I likely am ok since all of my reading are in PPb on my Hannah ulr checker, and your article shows toxicity in marine fish > 330 ppm.

Correct. :)
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Here Google goes nuts but because I´m in teaching mode - American "general ballpark" = Swenglish "between the thumb and the index finger" ;)


lol

I guess there's not much baseball played there.
 

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