Analyzing Hanna Ammonia checker Hi784, chemistry and performance

MnFish1

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Has anybody actually measured the ammonia level in a cycled aquarium with a dead fish left to rot?
Why would they? Its well known that once a fish dies (a big fish - for the tank volume) - if not removed from the tank - that there can be a cascade of death - whether from bacterial overgrowth/low O2 - or ammonia, etc. I don't think many people measure ammonia except with cycling - and I personally am not Sure 'why'.
 

MnFish1

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Yep, at pH 8.1, normal salinity, 0.04 NH3 works out at over 0.7 ppm NH3 + NH4, Impossible, right?

I only see one regular poster that keeps on about broken or stalled cycles. It’s quite obvious they can be temporarily overwhelmed. However, like in the 8ppm thread, that number would need to get rather high normally to cause problems. I guess someone should search for an LC50 (seems to be popular) toxicity list and post it.
I actually have looked this up - and anyone that has the desire/energy - there are LC50's listed in various articles for clowns, etc. It's all been said before - I don't see a reason to repeat it, but here is a quote:

"
In this study, A. ocellaris juveniles (1.20 ± 0.34 g) were exposed to six concen- trations of ammonia ranged from 0.23 to 1.63 mg/L NH3-N and eight concentrations of nitrite (26.3–202.2 mg/L NO2--N). The LC50- 24, LC50-48, LC50-72 and LC50-96 h were estimated to be 1.06, 0.83, 0.75 and 0.75 mg/L for NH3-N and 188.3, 151.01, 124.1 and 108.8 mg/L for NO2--N. Analysis of gill lesions caused by sublethal concentrations of these nitrogenous compounds showed that both nitrogenous compounds induced tissue lesions such as hyperplasia of epithelium cells, hypertrophy of chloride cells and lamellar lifting to all concentrations tested. However, histopathological alterations were more conspicuous accordingly the increase of ammonia or nitrite in fish exposed to 0.57 mg/L NH3-N or 100 mg/L NO2--N. Based on our results, we recommend to avoid concentra- tions higher than 0.57 mg/L of NH3-N and 25 mg/L of NO2-N in water."
 

MnFish1

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We need to remind ourselves that Seneye and other ammonia sensors detect unionized ammonia which is very roughly 1/10 to 1/20 the total ammonia. In the worse case, 0.005 to 0.04 ppm free ammonia is equivalent to 0.05 to 0.4 ppm total ammonia. That upper number will give an obvious non-zero result with API.
PS - if you do the API test correctly - which is - match the closest color - not the exact color - it matches - in my experience. in other words - if an ammonia is slightly more 'green' than 'yellow' - but closer to 'yellow' - the result is supposed to be read as 0. not 0.25 or 0.125 or whatever. Many people do the test incorrectly (IMHO - API is cumbersome) - and read it incorrectly (not according to instructions)
 

Garf

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I seem to remember that about 2.5% of fish feed (by weight) is converted into waterborne ammonia in fisheries. This would be detectable on total ammonia tests until it’s oxidised, a flux between the fish respiration (and uneaten food) and the oxidizing bacteria, if you will. Obviously we keep feeding the fish, it’s not a bulk dose and let it deplete scenario (which is not immediate, it takes time) Is this not considered a real thing? Should it not be normal to detect ammonia purely on a daily feed type ratio?
 

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nano owners on seneye report .001-.006~ max variance
Ok, so a seneye reading of 0.003 (I’m being generous) NH3 is totally believable to you. However an API test of somewhere above zero but below 0.25 means the test is trash (not that low readings are extremely important anyway) to you? At a pH of 7.8, they are the same thing, 0.1 NH3+NH4. If Tarichas testing of the high zero is correct, then an expected reading of almost 0.25 could be expected with all the API style tests (including this Hanna), even though much lower are generally reported. As long as folks understand they can read a little high, that will suffice.
 
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Dan_P

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I seem to remember that about 2.5% of fish feed (by weight) is converted into waterborne ammonia in fisheries. This would be detectable on total ammonia tests until it’s oxidised, a flux between the fish respiration (and uneaten food) and the oxidizing bacteria, if you will. Obviously we keep feeding the fish, it’s not a bulk dose and let it deplete scenario (which is not immediate, it takes time) Is this not considered a real thing? Should it not be normal to detect ammonia purely on a daily feed type ratio?
The other fun fact is that about 90% of the nitrogen consumed by fish is excreted as ammonia and some urea. I don’t recall the rate at which it is excreted.
 
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taricha

taricha

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I am still thinking about scenarios that might inhibit nitrifying bacteria.

I'll post another Bigfoot sighting.
Once @Azedenkae cycled a tank with ammonia and fritz turbostart.

Ammonia was rapidly consumed as expected, but .....then it inexplicably started to rise again and stayed high.

I have no explanation how or why.
@Azedenkae has thought about cycling a good bit and can probably link the thread I'm thinking about and might have an explanation now.
 
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Garf

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I'll post another Bigfoot sighting.
Once @Azedenkae cycled a tank with ammonia and fritz turbostart.

Ammonia was rapidly consumed as expected, but .....then it inexplicably started to rise again and stayed high.

I have no explanation how or why.
@Azedenkae has thought about cycling a good bit and can probably link the thread in thinking about and might have an explanation now.
I would suggest a rapid depletion of certain unknown trace elements or phosphate could cause it but I don’t know if the turbo start contains extra elements or just bacteria, and I presume a low pH. What an easy fix that would be, if it were that simple, lol. URINE, shrimp, flake etc. Does that bring back any memories? Low Phosphate is certainly restrictive in removing nitrite, and although I can’t easily find anything about tissue building for Ammonia Oxidizers, why not? Dang dry rock and sand, as it binds phosphate does this become unavailable to oxidizers, I suppose it must otherwise it would just incorporate into bacteria tissue and not leach out. #bringbackdirty
 

Dan_P

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I'll post another Bigfoot sighting.
Once @Azedenkae cycled a tank with ammonia and fritz turbostart.

Ammonia was rapidly consumed as expected, but .....then it inexplicably started to rise again and stayed high.

I have no explanation how or why.
@Azedenkae has thought about cycling a good bit and can probably link the thread in thinking about and might have an explanation now.
Very timely! Thinking about growing BioSpira and/or Fritz on microscope slides and then subjecting each to a treatment, monitoring ammonia consumption. Super gluing aragonite sand or aragonite rock slices to the slides is also an option. I should be able to rip through many factors at once.
 
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taricha

taricha

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Very timely! Thinking about growing BioSpira and/or Fritz on microscope slides and then subjecting each to a treatment, monitoring ammonia consumption. Super gluing aragonite sand or aragonite rock slices to the slides is also an option. I should be able to rip through many factors at once.
Unless you just want to find more things that people think could halt nitrification but really don't...
I bet you could explain more hobby cycling issues if you studied heterotroph nitrifiers instead of the chemoautotrophs. Heterotrophs are reported to fail to quickly cycle people's systems quite often.
Brightwell has a detailed long list of things they say can keep their MicroBacter Start XLM from processing ammonia (including having other bacteria like live rock in the system, lol).

Dr. Reef said
"3. Beyond that all other products [except Fritz, biospira, and One & Only] I tested stall unless you do a few things.

A. Keep temp at 80f.
B. Raise alk and pH
C. Drop salinity to 1.009-1.018
D. Add fish food

Reason for that ABCD is in my opinion these are not true nitrifying bacteria and more like ammonia sludge removers which require carbon source and special conditions to work."
 

MnFish1

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Another reason for a slower cycle I n a new tank is low phosphate
 

Dan_P

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Azedenkae mistakenly used Microbacter 7 instead of Microbacter XLM


Brightwell’s product description for Microbacter XLM specifically warns against adding Microbacter 7 and Clean products while starting an aquarium with the XLM product. This could be the explanation @brandon429 is looking for to make us believers in the notion that “cycled aquaria that use autotrophs do not stop processing ammonia“
 

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Azedenkae mistakenly used Microbacter 7 instead of Microbacter XLM


Brightwell’s product description for Microbacter XLM specifically warns against adding Microbacter 7 and Clean products while starting an aquarium with the XLM product. This could be the explanation @brandon429 is looking for to make us believers in the notion that “cycled aquaria that use autotrophs do not stop processing ammonia“
It’s certain that heterotrophs can smother, preventing or reducing oxygen from reaching nitrifiers. If this occurs in an algae dominant system,which can outcompete bacteria through diffusion, and the algae crashes, the net ammonia consumption is reversed into a net ammonia production. Algae dominated systems are generally sugar driven and heterotrophic anyway. In my mind this is one way things can go pear shaped, even in a cycled tank.

Edit - this thread may have gone off track, lol
 
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Dan_P

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It’s certain that heterotrophs can smother, preventing or reducing oxygen from reaching nitrifiers. If this occurs in an algae dominant system,which can outcompete bacteria through diffusion, and the algae crashes, the net ammonia consumption is reversed into a net ammonia production. Algae dominated systems are generally sugar driven and heterotrophic anyway. In my mind this is one way things can go pear shaped, even in a cycled tank.

Edit - this thread may have gone off track, lol
I was in total agreement with you until we got the algae part. Algae are nitrogen vacuums. They will take up ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

Yes, we will have to apologize to @taricha for messing up an otherwise pristine post.
 

MnFish1

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I was in total agreement with you until we got the algae part. Algae are nitrogen vacuums. They will take up ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

Yes, we will have to apologize to @taricha for messing up an otherwise pristine post.
Heterotrophs will outcompete algae easily for N containing compounds - depending on the species, temperature, etc. Its basic biology
 

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My bad. Yes. it goes from suck to blow.
Some folks have a very simplistic view of the world. In fact there are interactions that are way beyond human comprehension. Doesn’t seem that way when you reach the peak of the Dunning Kruger curve but when you hit the bottom of the first peak, humility sets in. Some folk never get over the first peak, it seems.
I would note, I’m grumpy, been doing 12hr nights :)
 

Dan_P

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Some folks have a very simplistic view of the world. In fact there are interactions that are way beyond human comprehension. Doesn’t seem that way when you reach the peak of the Dunning Kruger curve but when you hit the bottom of the first peak, humility sets in. Some folk never get over the first peak, it seems.
I would note, I’m grumpy, been doing 12hr nights :)
12 hr nights! Oh man, that’s tough.
 

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