Anderson Family Reef - Concrete Aquarium DIY 5K All The Way (Page 33)

ClownWrangler

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I still need to watch that!! Maybe when I am done with the build

I did a single pour with tons of rebar rounding the corner with 6” on center 1/2” rebar with 5/8” more reinforcements in all corners. We should be good

thanks for the support / encouragement and for following along!!

F3C1BD77-11AE-4A58-9786-C7C2279DA94C.jpeg

That frame is quite robust, but the rebar will disintegrate quite quickly from saltwater exposure if the sealant fails. This is what took down that building in FL, and it wasn't even saltwater. I'm wondering if some sort of pond liner type rubberized coating might be a good idea over the epoxy
 

samson78945

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This just might be the single greatest build I have ever seen! Fantastic work. I wouldn't even know how to start a project of this magnitude.

Keep killin' it!
 

ScottB

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That frame is quite robust, but the rebar will disintegrate quite quickly from saltwater exposure if the sealant fails. This is what took down that building in FL, and it wasn't even saltwater. I'm wondering if some sort of pond liner type rubberized coating might be a good idea over the epoxy
Anything we think about the FL fail is speculation at this point. Salt water is tough on concrete; that part is clear. But a good epoxy job will last a very long time.
 

ClownWrangler

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Thinking of using these:


How much power do you anticipate for heating? You might be better off with a custom built lighting unit using led modules like the ones from Blue Acro. Mount them to an Aluminum block with channels running through for water cooling then transfer that heat directly to the water in the tank. That's 300+ watts of energy savings for heat per light unit.
 
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ClownWrangler

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Anything we think about the FL fail is speculation at this point. Salt water is tough on concrete; that part is clear. But a good epoxy job will last a very long time.

Structures failing prematurely from this factor is not speculation. 100 year structures failing at 30 years has become the norm.
 

ScottB

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Structures failing prematurely from this is not speculation. 100 year structures failing at 30 years has become the norm.
Precisely. Who among us has run a tank or owned a house more than 20 years? Bueller?
 

george1381

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7C268667-07B6-4069-9446-61C45E282336.jpeg

splinter by splinter
64BE6BFE-87FF-4A4B-BDEF-0878EC0C1F3B.jpeg
I cut my keyway angled on both sides so the bottom is thinner than the top normally pop right out. Keep in mind for you next up grade.
7C268667-07B6-4069-9446-61C45E282336.jpeg

splinter by splinter
64BE6BFE-87FF-4A4B-BDEF-0878EC0C1F3B.jpeg
Angle cut the key on both side so that the bottom is thinner than the top. With some kind of form release it pops right out. For your next upgrade it should work out well for ya
 

george1381

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Read through your build. Amazing. Having done some concrete projects over the years I'm curious about one thing. How did you ensure there were no voids under the windows when you were pouring the concrete. I notice the forms have no vent holes in the window frames. Doing similar projects I have found the voids due to trapped air caused issues. Thanks, Jerry.
I pour all different kinds of walls. We use vibratory, plasticizer admixture(Super P.) And use a P-gravel mix. If you go that route I can guarantee you won't have any voids anywhere.
 
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dca22anderson

dca22anderson

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Fair enough. By then you will have the plans done for the 10k gallon upgrade I'm sure.
It’s been a fun process and way more work than I anticipated. Super rewarding though as I complete each step! I’ll need 10 years time to want to do this again
 

ClownWrangler

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Thanks for checking it out! Can’t wait to bring it all together!

next up sanding the epoxy and 2,3 coats then we should be on our way to installing the windows

What I like about your design is that the pressure will actually enhance the seal with an inside mounted window. A flush window looks nice, but hard to make structurally sound. There are ways though. I've seen some horribly designed aircraft with pressurized cabins that mount windscreens from the outside, a recipe for disaster.
 
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dca22anderson

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What I like about your design is that the pressure will actually enhance the seal with an inside mounted window. A flush window looks nice, but hard to make structurally sound. There are ways though. I've seen some horribly designed aircraft with pressurized cabins that mount windscreens from the outside, a recipe for disaster.
Thanks! I’m following those that have gone before me to hopefully steer clear of some of the challenges!! So far so good
 
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dca22anderson

dca22anderson

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How much power do you anticipate for heating? You might be better off with a custom built lighting unit using led modules like the ones from Blue Acro. Mount them to an Aluminum block with channels running through for water cooling then transfer that heat directly to the water in the tank. That's 300+ watts of energy savings for heat per light unit.
I’ll have to check this out! Thanks for the idea!!
 

Being sticky and staying connected: Have you used any reef-safe glue?

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