Annoying cyano

[ethankap]

I'm having a cyano issue (see picture).

Tank is 100 days old, 55 gallon total water volume

Phosphates at 0.021 and running GFO and a refugium with chaeto (1.5 gallon, so mostly for copepods)
Nitrates 5ppm
Alk 8.2
Temp: 78.5

I'm dosing with Microbacter7 and coral snow currently, but realized I kept my UV sterilizer on so it might have negated the bacteria dosing?

Livestock, coral, etc are all fine. Copepods are on the glass and the mandarin is eating fine. Chaeto is growing.

I systematically removed phosphate sources (bubble trap sponge, changing the socks, etc). I'm going to reduce feeding to only a few mysis per fish per day. I only target feed the coral.

I have an MP10 power head directing across the front of the aquarium which circulates water. Circulation pump is pointing toward the rocks.

Anything else in anyone can spot that I may be doing wrong?

 

[Tahoe61]

Stop the Microbacter 7 (although I really like this product).

Research the use of Chemiclean and follow instruction as directed, USE AN AIRSTONE, say good by to cyano. But it will be back from time to time, it's part of the hobby.

 

[ethankap]

Stop the Microbacter 7 (although I really like this product).

Research the use of Chemiclean and follow instruction as directed, USE AN AIRSTONE, say good buy to cyano. But it will be back from time to time, it's part of the hobby.

Could the Microbacter be exacerbating the problem? I have Chemiclean on order. Will pick up an air stone at PetCo.

 

[Tahoe61]

Your nitrate and phosphate values are not problematic. Eliminate a variable to start with, it's a young tank. Cyano is a common occurrence in systems not established and pops up in established systems. An Mp10 for a 55 is not a really a lot of flow, it gets the job done and the occurrence of cyano is not always flow related.
I use Chemiclean in my systems without issue for the occasional cyano issues, it's a good product, no side effects if used as directed. It works, that is really all I need without delving into the relationships of phosphates, nitrates and the use of carbon dosing. Keep it simple if able.

 

[ethankap]

Your nitrate and phosphate values are not problematic. Eliminate a variable to start with, it's a young tank. Cyano is a common occurrence in systems not established and pops up in established systems. An Mp10 for a 55 is not a really a lot of flow, it gets the job done and the occurrence of cyano is not always flow related.
I use Chemiclean in my systems without issue for the occasional cyano issues, it's a good product, no side effects if used as directed. It works, that is really all I need without delving into the relationships of phosphates, nitrates and the use of carbon dosing. Keep it simple if able.

It's a cube aquarium, so the LFS said a Mp10 should be fine. I upped the speed though, and am getting a splitter on the return to direct some flow behind the rocks.

 

[Tahoe61]

I have a 20 gallon with an MP10 on 50% with 2 return pumps 290 gph. I still get the occasional cyano, you really need to turn over the gph ime.

 

[S.O.MLemos]

My tank is approximately the same age and I do have cyano currently but haven’t really stressed it but I did turn down my white light last week and it doesn’t seem half as bad as it was. Although I have 2 hydro 850s alternating so every inch of my tank has good flow. Good luck

 

[ethankap]

Has anyone dried hydrogen peroxide dosing to clear it up? I did the test to confirm it is cyano using H2O2

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

The mb7 comes with a small organic carbon source. So I’ll feed the cyano.
Bio spira and Dr Tim’s are two that don’t.
Cyano in new live sand is common. It’s feeding both on the newly introduced nutrients and rotting organics being deposited there and the Aragonite buffering and addin alk tonthe tank. You can stir the sand till it stops this.

And yea , chemiclen does work and may give some relief.

Has anyone dried hydrogen peroxide dosing to clear it up? I did the test to confirm it is cyano using H2O2

It can. It’s woks by dissolving (oxidizing) origanics and allowing them to be skimmed and mechanicaly removed as well as directly targeting some of the cell walls of the cyano. Long term dosing is not reccomened as it does dissolve Everything with thin cell walls .

 

[ethankap]

The mb7 comes with a small organic carbon source. So I’ll feed the cyano.
Bio spira and Dr Tim’s are two that don’t.
Cyano in new live sand is common. It’s feeding both on the newly introduced nutrients and rotting organics being deposited there and the Aragonite buffering and addin alk tonthe tank. You can stir the sand till it stops this.

And yea , chemiclen does work and may give some relief.



It can. It’s woks by dissolving (oxidizing) origanics and allowing them to be skimmed and mechanicaly removed as well as directly targeting some of the cell walls of the cyano. Long term dosing is not reccomened as it does dissolve Everything with thin cell walls .

I have Zeobak and ZeoZym and bioMate coming today. Those better?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I have Zeobak and ZeoZym and bioMate coming today. Those better?

I do know know what is in those products.
I would avoid using all three at once. It will muddle future troubleshooting.