Another Dino Thread

[Trey]

So after doing what I thought was *everything* right, I am now experiencing an ostreopsis bloom. Of course immediately after adding some nicer corals as well.
NO3 and PO4 never reached undetectable levels (5-12 nyos, and .01-.02 Hanna) ok, ok, po4 was admittedly too low! I was trying to keep it up with heavy pellet feeding. I eradicated some nuisance macro algae that was growing on rocks and suddenly BOOM, dinos...
So, a couple of questions...

I plan to raise my nitrates, which are now 5, up to 12, and phosphates, which have crashed to 0 (guessing the dinos are using them), up to .05. If I maintain these numbers will that be sufficient, or should I aim higher?

I plan on dosing sponge excel, how should I go about this?

I ordered a pentair 40w smart UV and a varios6 to run it. Should I plumb from sump to display or display back to display? Also what setting on the varios should I use for optimal flow through?

I did also dose some pods, and have started dosing phyto as well. min addition I removed filter socks, halted my awc, and dialed back the water height on my skimmer.

Thank you all so much in advance, and any other tips are so appreciated.

 

[Trey]

I forgot to add, I raised the tank temps to 82-83F and the ph has been between 8.2 and 8.4 consistently.

 

[Reef - Tripp]

Uv, runs 5x.

 

[sebi1100]

Hi , u can check ur tank water / reverse osmosis water with an icp - sometimes Dinos r coming if Si is too high.

U can also check ur lighting - if it’s pretty aggressive blue light then reduce these channels a bit or raise the fixture for some inches. Specially if jod is too low the corals maybe stressed and release their symbiotic algae . Maybe ur new corals did it .

And maybe just turn on the lights for now only 8-10 hours , not 10-12 as usual.



greetings
Sebi

 

[fuelman]

The conventional, tried/true method for ostreopsis:
a) Raise NO3 and PO4 to >10 -15 and >.1 - .15 respectively. NYOS test, Hanna ULR test. You may be shocked at how much PO4 you need to dose.
b) Install a UV to/from the affected display (not sump). 1 watt per 3 gallons. 300-400 GPH is OK. Slower if you can.
c) No aminos at all. No GFO. Skim dry. No carbon dosing. No water changes.
d) Run activated carbon; ostreos are toxic
e) Manual removal: blow them off often. Clamp filter floss in high light / high flow areas. Think 4" X 12" strips. Rinse in the sink each night just before the lights go off.
f) reduce lighting period to 7-8 hours per day if currently running longer than that.


Once you get some competing green algae and cyano going, you will know you are getting close.

i would also post in the main dino thread you might get some latest/greatest tips i haven't thought of

Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

I don't know what percentage of folks had luck battling dinos with any of the methods in the old Dino thread but it's obviously a very low percentage, so I'd like refresh folks on the natural alternatives and lay out three areas of info: some of the factors that contribute to a dino outbreak...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[dwest]

That 40w UV should work for a tank up to 120 gallons. I didn’t see tank size however. Do just as @fuelman says.

 

[Trey]

The conventional, tried/true method for ostreopsis:
a) Raise NO3 and PO4 to >10 -15 and >.1 - .15 respectively. NYOS test, Hanna ULR test. You may be shocked at how much PO4 you need to dose.
b) Install a UV to/from the affected display (not sump). 1 watt per 3 gallons. 300-400 GPH is OK. Slower if you can.
c) No aminos at all. No GFO. Skim dry. No carbon dosing. No water changes.
d) Run activated carbon; ostreos are toxic
e) Manual removal: blow them off often. Clamp filter floss in high light / high flow areas. Think 4" X 12" strips. Rinse in the sink each night just before the lights go off.
f) reduce lighting period to 7-8 hours per day if currently running longer than that.


Once you get some competing green algae and cyano going, you will know you are getting close.

i would also post in the main dino thread you might get some latest/greatest tips i haven't thought of

Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

I don't know what percentage of folks had luck battling dinos with any of the methods in the old Dino thread but it's obviously a very low percentage, so I'd like refresh folks on the natural alternatives and lay out three areas of info: some of the factors that contribute to a dino outbreak...

www.reef2reef.com

Thank you so so much!

 

[fuelman]

Thank you so so much!

your welcome!!! i would add another thing. don't let up on the treatment at the point where you have no dinos "visible" in your tank i would leave the nutrients high & wait to do a water change for another 2 weeks at least, they are still there just greatly diminished. i wouldn't dose any aminos for a few months just to be on the safe side, dinos love aminos.