Another generic algae question!

instantaquatics

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My tank's been up for 2 months, it was rushed as I needed to move everything over from my cracked 20 gallon. I decided to get a 40 gallon breeder.

There was live rock transferred over, and 'live' sand was purchased and put into the tank. There was dry rock put into the tank by Caribsea, the purple arch stuff. The live rock had tons of macroalgae and microalgae due to neglect (I'll get more into this neglect later on) and a bad setup overall.

I have a hang on back refugium with chaeto, filter floss, a sponge, live rock rubble, and a good amount of ceramic media. This refugium has been on a couple of tanks and has been up for I'd say a year maybe over now, it's got some coralline in there.

Tank has been running for 2 months now and has some stock. Originally all that came from the 20 gallon was a clownfish pair, but now I have a lawnmower blenny (who is fat and happy off the glass algae and readily accepts flake food), the 2 clowns, 15 astrea snails, and 4 cerith snails. My clean up crew is pretty lacking, but it's getting there.

Here's where my problem starts: My tank didn't go through the normal cycle since it needed to go up and I used live rock etc. I was awful and did not test for ANYTHING besides salinity. The corals (although hardy, some zoas, a duncan, and pocillopora) did great and I've actually fragged that pocillopora into 9 frags now in an effort to fill the tank a bit more.

I had a growth spurt of green hair algae and that macroalgae that came over to my tank, I believe it is cladorphis. I cut it down (the macroalgae) and it has not grown back, but it's always been relatively slow growing.

I've gotten back into reefing now and I'm ready to take this tank to the next level, and that's where I run into some problems. I'm not sure where my tank is at. I'm going to start doing weekly water changes and testing much more often to make sure everything is stable and good. However, my test results for phosphates and nitrates were a bit weird that really make me question where my tank is at. For reference, the green hair algae is really brown and seems to be dead, and I just removed some in a water change today. I brushed it with a tooth brush and pulled some with my hands. Some of it came off really easily and was no problem to remove, other parts did as well but left visible fibers in the rock, and others would just not scrape off or be pulled off.

My nitrates checked out at 0 and my phosphates also at 0. The nitrate test kit I use is red sea and the phosphate test kit I use is API (definitely not the best). I feed 4x a week, including feeding the corals and the fish until they are visibly rounder. I'm assuming the algae is just using the nitrates and phosphates and that mine are not "actually" 0.

Where do I go from here? I'm going to start doing weekly 10% water changes as my alkalinity is pretty low, but I don't think that alk affects the algae (I could be wrong!).
 

brmreefer

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In regards to testing for PO4.

I would invest into higher quality testing methods. I've used the API PO4 test kit and salifert in the past with no luck in positively identifying where my levels are at. I invested in a PO4 Hanna checker and have not looked back since. I now have a better idea on where my PO4 is at and can make more informed choices when implementing any parameter adjustments.
 

brmreefer

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In regards to testing for NO3.

I am not worried about what NO3 levels are "Specifically" at. I just know I don't want them to bottom out at zero. I use the API brand and know I just don't want the color to be yellow (equating to Zero) when I test weekly. I have a Salifert brand as a back if I need more precise values, but that is it, otherwise API is cheap and does what I need.
 
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instantaquatics

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In regards to testing for PO4.

I would invest into higher quality testing methods. I've used the API PO4 test kit and salifert in the past with no luck in positively identifying where my levels are at. I invested in a PO4 Hanna checker and have not looked back since. I now have a better idea on where my PO4 is at and can make more informed choices when implementing any parameter adjustments.
Well, the thing is that the PO4 test was exactly the same color. There was no difference in hue, it was as close as you could get to that color. Yes API is definitely not the best brand for this I know that, but if anything it shows me that I have an extreme lack of phosphates.

What do you suggest I do as for the tank itself?
 

vetteguy53081

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Feed tank daily which will bring up the nitrates and Phos levels but not critical.
I have 3 tanks and maintain all at < .04 nitrate and phos and did the same with my pet store.

A past tank I had, I ran nitrate at .04
and phos at >.33 and this was result:

drop off1.jpg
 
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instantaquatics

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Feed tank daily which will bring up the nitrates and Phos levels but not critical.
I have 3 tanks and maintain all at < .04 nitrate and phos and did the same with my pet store.

A past tank I had, I ran nitrate at .04
and phos at >.33 and this was result:

drop off1.jpg
Thank you for the input. How should I go about my algae situation then? Parts of the GHA just died and became brown (I assume that means it died), but others are staying on strong.
 

vetteguy53081

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Thank you for the input. How should I go about my algae situation then? Parts of the GHA just died and became brown (I assume that means it died), but others are staying on strong.
brown is decaying GHA. Also reduce white light intensity which will diminish the energy source
 
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instantaquatics

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Not much changed. The algae is not growing, but ti's too hard to pull off. I can not remove it with a toothbrush either. Its too thin to grab. Nitrates and phosphates still both read 0. Cleaned out some of the algae in spots I could pull it off today, and cleaned the refugium of any muck below the rock rubble. Maybe that will help. Lawnmower blenny, cerith snails, astrea snails, and a tuxedo urchin did nothing. Literally nothing. None of them seem to eat the GHA or macro. Light on 8 hours per day. Blues on for 5, whites on for 3. Blues on 90% and whites on 1%. Light is a viparspectra 165w around 20 inches above the tank. Coral growth is great as always. Any tips anyone?? This algae is driving me mad! Its like a dirt brown plaguing my rocks!
 
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vetteguy53081

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vetteguy53081

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That’s what I thought- bryopsis. This is a nightmare type of algae and requires patience. Pull by hand and remove rest with dental pick or small crochet needle
 

vetteguy53081

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Rats. I took some pics today. Would you mind double checking? Thanks.
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Yikes. That’s bryopsis and one of the most difficult to remove. You will need to pull as much as you can by hand and remove the roots with a dental pick or small crochet needle and reduce white light intensity. Also add a small pouch of chemipure blue or elite to keep po4 in check
Large astrea snails may help but a chance to take that they will
Last resort is fluconasal- FLUX
 

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I have the same problem, came in on my KP rock. Should I pull the worst rocks and treat in a different tank, or just flux the whole tank? Not much for coral in the tank yet, but I will have to pull my cheato
 
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instantaquatics

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I have the same problem, came in on my KP rock. Should I pull the worst rocks and treat in a different tank, or just flux the whole tank? Not much for coral in the tank yet, but I will have to pull my cheato
From what I have been reading, h2o2 dip would work, but I will personally be dosing flux. Flux should get rid of all of it while h2o2 may just remove a bit on your rock?
 

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I’m in te same situation! So frustrating! I was thinking about getting a Dolabella auricularia but I don’t know if it feeds on this type of algae... I tryed with a seas urchin (Lytechinus variegatus) and it actually ate that algae from top to bottom but kept on making corals fall down so I removed it. If Dolabella doesn’t it that algae, I’ll add an urchin again.
 

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instantaquatics

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I’m in te same situation! So frustrating! I was thinking about getting a Dolabella auricularia but I don’t know if it feeds on this type of algae... I tryed with a seas urchin (Lytechinus variegatus) and it actually ate that algae from top to bottom but kept on making corals fall down so I removed it. If Dolabella doesn’t it that algae, I’ll add an urchin again.
Good luck to you. My urchin does nothing to it. Maybe you have a different type. Doesn't look too similar to mine.
 
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instantaquatics

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DOesn't look much like the feathery bryopsis like I'm seeing online. More like a turf/GHA with some sort of macroalgae?
 

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