When treating with antibiotics, kanaplex does not recommend water changes, but metro and furan however do. If mixing the three and treating for 10 days, should I do water changes between doses? I was going to dose every 2 days for 10 days total. I have an amonia alert and was only going to do water changes if things started looking like levels were getting out of control. I also have some prime on hand, but have never used the stuff.
Antibiotics and Water Changes
- Thread starter JamesP
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One more question. If I am doing a 25% water change I still do a full dose each time right? So i am not just replacing the 25% i took out, but actually adding a full dose each time I add more. I guess it doesnt build up.since it would likely break down between doses.
Its the fifth day but I had to pull everyone out except my purple tang who is the only one still showing signs of inflections. The fins on the others look better, but unfortunately I lost 3 fish and realized what I did wrong too late.
Its a stupid mistake really. I tried to put too many fish in the qt at once and when I had 3 fish die in 24 hours I noticed the rest were breathing hard and fast. I think the furan+metro+kana combo plus me putting in too many fish just overloaded the bio filter and spiked the amonia then nitrites.
The issue went unoticed because I had a seachem amonia alert in, but it didnt register any issues. When i pulled it out i noticed the yellow indicator was actually white and had rubbed off. It looked yellow through the furan water though. I quickly added some seachem prime and did a 50% water change. They were still breathing hard so I made the call to put them all back in the dt except purple tang who seemed ok still and still needs more antibiotics.
I feel really bad. I lost a midas blenny, a Bartlett anthia, and a pajama cardinal. I have an anthia in the dt that is under a rock breathing hard still and im afraid i may lose him too. All the others made a quick recovery once in the dt. Im going to keep a close eye on the purple tang and try to get to full 10 days. He is alone in a 40 gallon qt.
Its a stupid mistake really. I tried to put too many fish in the qt at once and when I had 3 fish die in 24 hours I noticed the rest were breathing hard and fast. I think the furan+metro+kana combo plus me putting in too many fish just overloaded the bio filter and spiked the amonia then nitrites.
The issue went unoticed because I had a seachem amonia alert in, but it didnt register any issues. When i pulled it out i noticed the yellow indicator was actually white and had rubbed off. It looked yellow through the furan water though. I quickly added some seachem prime and did a 50% water change. They were still breathing hard so I made the call to put them all back in the dt except purple tang who seemed ok still and still needs more antibiotics.
I feel really bad. I lost a midas blenny, a Bartlett anthia, and a pajama cardinal. I have an anthia in the dt that is under a rock breathing hard still and im afraid i may lose him too. All the others made a quick recovery once in the dt. Im going to keep a close eye on the purple tang and try to get to full 10 days. He is alone in a 40 gallon qt.
Since the water is nuclear yellow, what is the best way to test while running furan? It seems like dyed water just cant be tested. I did replace the amonia alert and i lift it out of the water to check it now, but if there is something i can do to test for amonia and nitrite that you guys use i would purchase it for next time.
I learned something from the experience it is just unfortunate there was a loss of life to teach me the lesson. In the past when i lost fish it didnt effect me that much, but i think because ive done so much to these fellows to get them disease free ive gotten quite attached to my fish and it really upset me more than i thought it would. I appreciate your condolences.
I learned something from the experience it is just unfortunate there was a loss of life to teach me the lesson. In the past when i lost fish it didnt effect me that much, but i think because ive done so much to these fellows to get them disease free ive gotten quite attached to my fish and it really upset me more than i thought it would. I appreciate your condolences.
Also, let me know what you think of this idea. Since im doing water changes of 25% every 48 hours right before refosing, couldnt i just add prime every day to keep the amonia and nitrites from becoming toxic between water changes?
Also, im using hikari metro+ instead of seachem metroplex. Im alao using hikari bifuran+ instead of api furan2. The furans look like the exact same thing. The metro however looks a little different. The both contain the same active ingredient, but the hikari calls for daily partial wc and daily redose. I assumed they were the same just from different companies. Maybe i was wrong. Maybe i should have stuck with the same brands. I used the hikari stuff because it was all that brs sells and i buy most of my stuff through them. Could be another mistake on my part.
Also, im using hikari metro+ instead of seachem metroplex. Im alao using hikari bifuran+ instead of api furan2. The furans look like the exact same thing. The metro however looks a little different. The both contain the same active ingredient, but the hikari calls for daily partial wc and daily redose. I assumed they were the same just from different companies. Maybe i was wrong. Maybe i should have stuck with the same brands. I used the hikari stuff because it was all that brs sells and i buy most of my stuff through them. Could be another mistake on my part.
Unfortunately, there is no good way of testing for ammonia after you add a chemical which dyes the water. Any liquid ammonia test kit will be impossible to read, and the discoloration of the water makes it very difficult to read the ammonia alert badge and/or might even stain the badge itself. 
I also feel it is not advisable to dose an ammonia reducer whilst using antibiotics. It may be fine in some cases, but there's just no way to know whether or not a negative interaction is taking place.
I suppose you really need to have a great deal of confidence in your QT bio-filter before dosing Furan-2 and other medications which discolor the water...
I also feel it is not advisable to dose an ammonia reducer whilst using antibiotics. It may be fine in some cases, but there's just no way to know whether or not a negative interaction is taking place.
I suppose you really need to have a great deal of confidence in your QT bio-filter before dosing Furan-2 and other medications which discolor the water...
Yeshuaschosen
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What I did was mixed 1 scoop of Kanaplex in a 5 gallons as prescribed .Then I put the Betta in a 2.5 gallon quarantine tank with half a bucket of the water with medicine on the 1st day .I did a 100% water change the 2nd day with the other half of the bucket with medicine.This way it was getting the correct dosage in the water but I split the water in half 2 days-48 hrs .I'm going to do this 2 more times and treat him for 6 days.This way he has no ammonia in the water only what he produces in 24 hrs.
CherBear811
Active Member
Came to this thread looking for info but wanted to add....
You can use seachems ammonia test. It's not a true liquid test and gives options for testing both free and total ammonia. I've found it to be accurate. It used a yellow dot submerged in tank water the turns tinged of dark blue in the presence of ammonia.
You can use seachems ammonia test. It's not a true liquid test and gives options for testing both free and total ammonia. I've found it to be accurate. It used a yellow dot submerged in tank water the turns tinged of dark blue in the presence of ammonia.
CherBear811
Active Member
Now for my question....
Two tangs in QT, one recently got tagged between the eye and gills. It's a shy guy anyway so by the time I saw it, it was an infected mess. I immediately did a methylene blue bath then screwed up and added methylene blue to the QT at the recommended dose for treating a tank. Then when to grab my erythromycin and minocyclene - then saw not to use with methylene blue. So I decided to use sulfa-trim instead since it is recommended to use with staining agents like methylene blue and malachite green. It's been 2 days. The infected site seems to have improved to mostly normal pink exposed flesh but I'd like to switch to a stronger compound like Kan/Furan or M1/M2 but how do I be sure all the methylene blue is out? I did a large wc between day 1 and 2 but it's still def bluish. I don't want to run carbon since that will also remove the antibiotics. Any advice?
Two tangs in QT, one recently got tagged between the eye and gills. It's a shy guy anyway so by the time I saw it, it was an infected mess. I immediately did a methylene blue bath then screwed up and added methylene blue to the QT at the recommended dose for treating a tank. Then when to grab my erythromycin and minocyclene - then saw not to use with methylene blue. So I decided to use sulfa-trim instead since it is recommended to use with staining agents like methylene blue and malachite green. It's been 2 days. The infected site seems to have improved to mostly normal pink exposed flesh but I'd like to switch to a stronger compound like Kan/Furan or M1/M2 but how do I be sure all the methylene blue is out? I did a large wc between day 1 and 2 but it's still def bluish. I don't want to run carbon since that will also remove the antibiotics. Any advice?
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