Anyone see an anemone look like this?

OrionN

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Just sit back, do your water change and let your tank stable out. Do add anything other than food and water change. Keep temperature stable, no change more than 1-2 degree, between highest to lowest. Keep salinity very stable. Have accurate auto top off so that you replace the elaborate water continuously (if no ATO at least 2 times a day manually)

Most important equipment for the tank in order of important:
1. Power head/sump pump. If this go out your tank is dead in a few hours
2. Mechanism to keep salinity stable. Must keep stable with water change. Refractomenter is a must IMO
3. Heater/method to cool tank if you use a lot of high power light.
4. Light depends on what you want to keep.

Keep your tank stable, but don't need to keep pH stable.
Slow down and learn to keep tank stable first. Once you can keep the tank stable, then you can research and learn about an animals before you can attempt to keep them.

Anemones are hard to keep animals. Different anemone species have different requirements. A Condy (Condylactis gigantea ) is not the same as a Gigantea (Stichodactyla gigantea), even if the species name is the same. Can't lump all the anemone species together.

@ds38
The original question, your anemone is trying to divide due to stress. Last attempt to propagate before it die. I did not read through the whole thread, but I hope it pull through,
 
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ds38

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100% negative! MY GOD DO NOT USE THAT!!!!!!

All PH buffer do is add a small amount of alkalinity for a small temporary increase, to only fall back down when the buffer gets fully mixed in, you raised your alkalinity and your PH is right back to where it was before you added it.

Again your PH is absolutely fine, quit chasing numbers or the tank will crash and all your hard work and money will be down the drain.

Pretty sure I've tried to to tell you in the last 4 or 5 posts to quit chasing numbers, but your refusing to listen.

I hear ya, I was starting to have doubts before you replied because it says every 0.1 Ph increase will increase alk by some weird conversion, which I found a chart for, and if I understand right, to get to 8.3 Ph means I'd be at 16 dkh alk

I can't believe this industry is full of scams and gimmick products.

I put 10 grams in before I even posted, and barely even saw any spike. Just from 7.93 to 7.95. Done with it.

I'm confused why you say I'm chasing numbers though. My corals have not ever grown!!!

Do you also consider me buying nickel, zinc, bromine, vanadium, molybdenum, potassium, boron as chasing numbers? Triton Lab results made recommendations that are "not important but beneficial" and "fine tuning level 1 basic" and fine- tuning level 1 advanced" which includes nickel - warning dangerous element for the aquarium. Dosage for professional experienced aquarium only. A nickel dose may have the following advantages - can improve color image of coral, can improve overall health of lps/sps coral"

Do you consider doing any of these optional dosings as chasing numbers? Because if something as mainstream as 7.90 Ph vs 8.3 Ph is unnecessary, then everything triton is recommending is b.s. too and I'm running in circles for no reason...

But again, my corals have never grown.
And some die.

Screenshot_20200403-015436.png
 
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ds38

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Why would you have high co2? It doesn't make sense? Do you live in a cave deep underground?
Live in a condo in Oceanside CA lol I just don't like dust build up so don't open the windows......

Opening them made a difference from 7.75ph low to 7.89 Ph at its low point
 
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ds38

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Just sit back, do your water change and let your tank stable out. Do add anything other than food and water change. Keep temperature stable, no change more than 1-2 degree, between highest to lowest. Keep salinity very stable. Have accurate auto top off so that you replace the elaborate water continuously (if no ATO at least 2 times a day manually)

Most important equipment for the tank in order of important:
1. Power head/sump pump. If this go out your tank is dead in a few hours
2. Mechanism to keep salinity stable. Must keep stable with water change. Refractomenter is a must IMO
3. Heater/method to cool tank if you use a lot of high power light.
4. Light depends on what you want to keep.

Keep your tank stable, but don't need to keep pH stable.
Slow down and learn to keep tank stable first. Once you can keep the tank stable, then you can research and learn about an animals before you can attempt to keep them.

Anemones are hard to keep animals. Different anemone species have different requirements. A Condy (Condylactis gigantea ) is not the same as a Gigantea (Stichodactyla gigantea), even if the species name is the same. Can't lump all the anemone species together.

@ds38
The original question, your anemone is trying to divide due to stress. Last attempt to propagate before it die. I did not read through the whole thread, but I hope it pull through,

@OrionN

Thank you. That anemone in original post was cottage cheese falling apart a few days later. It had slid off glass on water change even before posting, and someone mentioned it should have stuck, so that was warning sign. But I put it back on glass where it was, but after posting, and looking super stretched thin, it slid right off in hand and put in rock hole, and next day it was shredded cottage cheese. Recorded removing it, I was rude with my update.

I do have all things going you listed. Rodi water and automatic top off throughout day, etc.

The lights are the only questionable thing to figure out next with a par meter since I have 49 inch deep tank and I assume I can keep sps and Lps coral.

My tank is stable I assume. I don't know what else to do with it. Phosphates are high for some reason. And if I'm doing all these recommended dosings of elements from triton lab to have perfection, why would I settle for Ph 7.8 or 7.95 when 8.3 gets better growth. I'm trying not to half butt anything here. Willing to go all out.
 
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ds38

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Buying all that crap, thats exactly what your doing. With basic water changes, all those elements gets replenished.

Are you saying Triton Lab testing and their elements to dose is a gimmick like the reef buffer?

How replenished? They are low to begin with (potassium, boron, and strontium) and triton recommended its VERY important to important dosing those, and dosing the others to be beneficial to aquarium.... So I'm assuming the rodi/salt water changes are not loaded with enough of these elements or why would they be low. I showed the results!


I guess I'll be a guinea pig / case study because I was under the impression that I will be reducing water changes to once a month or so?



Triton Method and buying all their trace elements is supposed to eliminate water changes.... Definitely wouldn't want to wipe out all the elements I added since its $100s for these (vanadium, zinc, etc), so I don't know how often water change is supposed to be once triton lab results have no more recommendations because all the numbers get right..... Will play it by ear.

I will update in few weeks after 2nd triton lab results after I've done all the element dosings that I've bought

I just emailed triton asking why they didn't even recommend a water change in the recommendations of the test results. "

How come my results don't recommend a water change even though my phosphates are high?

Their response is attached.

IMG_20200403_0514359.jpg Screenshot_20200403-055144.png
 
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OrionN

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.....

I'm confused why you say I'm chasing numbers though. My corals have not ever grown!!!

Do you also consider me buying nickel, zinc, bromine, vanadium, molybdenum, potassium, boron as chasing numbers? ....
.......
This is chasing numbers. Trace elements are toxic if too high. Level are too low to accurately measure. You need to read the fine print to see how accurate, and the significant fig of these reading numbers. Many successful reefer never send their water to be analyze.

Get a good salt and have good RO water. I don't use RO/DI. I use either Instant Ocean or IO Reef Crystal which ever I can get cheaper at the moment. I do use a Ca reactor to add Ca/Alkalinity and trace element and use Crushed coral as m media. Don't add anything else.
Keep your tank stable regarding tempt, salinity and have good nutrient export mechanism. Sit back and enjoy the tank.
 

homer1475

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keep it basic for now, your way over complicating things and you don't know how to maintain your tank.

Water changes are the best thing for you to get intune with your tank, and to learn how things work. You have had 2 aquarium people over there to service your tank, and your not happy with their work, and now your trying to throw everything but the kitchen sink at it, because you don't have a clue how to maintain the tank(very evident by chasing that magical 8.3 dragon).


SLOW DOWN AND LEARN HOW YOUR TANK OPERATES BEFORE YOU GO THROWING ALL THAT JUNK IN THERE!!!!!
 

OrionN

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Thing does not grow in your tank becasue you something that is "toxic" in there. Much more likely that you have "too much" of something or multiple things rather than too little. Don't add anything else, just do large water change, multiple regular water change, and wait. You will not change things around quickly. Nothing happen quickly in the reef tank other than bad things. You can have a poisoned dog and you take care of him, everything perfect and he will take months to recover. However, you can kill a healthy dog in a few minutes by poison him.

There are very advance reefers who do not do water change, just added trace elements. You are not anywhere near that level yet. I strongly advice you not trying to keep a reef tank using this method for now.
 

homer1475

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Really? That seems unhealthy for everyone involved. Maybe gold for the heating/cooling system, but bad for everything alive.
I guess were kind of hijacking the thread, but.....

Yes great for heating and air conditioning, you(humans) aren't bothered as the 02 level is fine for us(doors open and close replenishing o2). Most modern HVAC units also include an air handler that will pump fresh air from the outside into your HVAC unit. Someone more in tune with HVAC could tell you better, but thats my basic understanding of it.

In our tanks it causes chronically low PH.
 

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I guess were kind of hijacking the thread, but.....

Yes great for heating and air conditioning, you(humans) aren't bothered as the 02 level is fine for us(doors open and close replenishing o2). Most modern HVAC units also include an air handler that will pump fresh air from the outside into your HVAC unit. Someone more in tune with HVAC could tell you better, but thats my basic understanding of it.

In our tanks it causes chronically low PH.

I would think that we would be the first bothered by it. Our bodies drive to breathe is based off CO2 levels in the body, not oxygen (as one would intuitively think). So, if CO2 levels in the home were elevated one would expect a decreased ability to diffuse that CO2, resulting in increased respiratory rate and decreased blood pH or increased bicarb. These are things that I haven't seen occurring.

The reason why our respiration is based on CO2 is because of our fine sensitivity to it. So, it's difficult for me to accept that it's a common issue without data. Maybe this is the case when a tank is located close to a boiler system or other large appliance that could potentially put off large amounts of CO2?
 

homer1475

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Been proven many times in newer homes. Look at people that post PH levels when they have many people over. We are not effected by it, but the tank with the increased CO2 production suffers.
 

OrionN

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I think pH of the tank decrease with a party but I don’t think the tank suffer.
Many years ago there was a thread in ReefCentral where a father caught his son throw a party at the house when they were away because he has internet monitor of his tank and notice the drop in pH of the tank.

So parents of teenage, monitor your tank is another way of monitoring your children. :)
 

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With a bunch of people in the house I would undoubtedly expect a decrease in pH due to CO2 elevation, but I would consider that a special circumstance.

Things could get skewed. If people have an enclosed sump, and a canopy, and see decreased pH and then go open a window along with their cabinet doors and canopy of course the breeze is going to wash away the stagnant air and you'll see the pH rise. I also suspect that a simple ventilation setup with house air would produce the same effect.
 

OrionN

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With a bunch of people in the house I would undoubtedly expect a decrease in pH due to CO2 elevation, but I would consider that a special circumstance.

Things could get skewed. If people have an enclosed sump, and a canopy, and see decreased pH and then go open a window along with their cabinet doors and canopy of course the breeze is going to wash away the stagnant air and you'll see the pH rise. I also suspect that a simple ventilation setup with house air would produce the same effect.
It will but I would not bother to set it up. No problem. It is true that new air conditioner system have way to add fresh air to the system. I can control the amount of air turn over to our home with a dial. Complete rebuild of my house in 2010, knock the house down to the foundation and rebuild.
 
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ds38

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@homer1475

Or whoever said my maroon will eventually prevail over the Clark clown

Yeah, the Clarki is causing his own demise. He wants to die for this anenome and red maroon isn't having it. Its a big tank and clarki has other anemones to go to but he insists on coming all the way over to this corner to cause problems for himself

Clarki's fins looking shredded and some spots on his skin. Serves him right. He's the bully of the tank. Goes out of his way to mess with the maroon, and the nemos. He already killed his partner that algaebarn is surprised by because they were a pair when they sold them. And for weeks now wheneve maroon comes out of the corner to swim laps, the clarki chases him back to the corner very hatefully it seems but always turns around before attacking

I still can't see a sign that the maroon will ever attack the nemos. He just wants to be left alone, but this clarki is an idiot. The maroon has never shown aggression. And it's been months.


 
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ds38

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Will this apply?

Looks like maroon clown now losing with his mouth all messed up.

I was able to catch him because he still does laps at the top of water while clarki clown darts at him from below.


Now put him in box so he can heal and get bigger and then maybe clarki clown will leave him alone. Still doubt maroon turns into a killer - this one has chill personality and wants to be left alone.

That thread says can leave fish in box for a week or more so I'll try that. Maybe clarki stops this aggression.
 

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