I’m pretty new - my 45 gallon AIO will be one year old next month. I just bought a house with a 220 gallon built in freshwater tank, and I’m thinking of replacing it with a 180g reef. However - I want to keep the maintenance minimal so I’m thinking of putting the sump in the basement directly below with a roller mat and auto water changes. This is a big build for me and absolutely beyond my skill level - in normal times, I’d love to meet people through CTARS, maybe come see how others have done this type of thing, and get some advice (and maybe even direct help!). In lieu of that - would anyone be willing to do a virtual tank tour via zoom or Google hangouts or something? Partly to help me start to plan my own build and also because I want to meet some reefers / mentors in the area, thought this may be a good way to meet people. Thank you!
Anyone with a 1st floor DT plumbed to basement sump willing to show me how it works?
- Thread starter itgoeson
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Gotta love a build!! Where are you located?
Planning out is always great but I would say give us some insight on equipment you have or planning on getting. Also what would be the estimated return pipe distance. Cause your big concern is going to be draining and return. Specially with enough head pressure for the distance you are going to do
Planning out is always great but I would say give us some insight on equipment you have or planning on getting. Also what would be the estimated return pipe distance. Cause your big concern is going to be draining and return. Specially with enough head pressure for the distance you are going to do
I’m in East Haddam. The equipment I have now won’t work for a 180 (except maybe the ATO!) so it will be replaced. Planning Reef Breeders for lights and the rest TBD, probably a Hydros for automation. Budget is flexible so I’m shooting for decent quality but not top of the line equipment (planning softies and nems so not planning to go too crazy). The return height would be probably 6’ in the basement plus probably another 6’ to get through the floor and to the top of the tank (I’ll have to measure it). Maybe that’s just not feasible but I want to look into it... I don’t love the idea of cramming a big sump and skimmer etc all underneath the tank.
My plan is to get other work on the house done and start planning the build and learning how others have set theirs up. Would probably start buying stuff this summer.
Here’s the existing tank (it is still running without fish for now in case I lose my nerve and decide to keep it freshwater as is). Current tank is too tall for me to be excited about maintaining and has some scratches so plan would be to replace it and have someone put wood paneling in the fill the gap.
My plan is to get other work on the house done and start planning the build and learning how others have set theirs up. Would probably start buying stuff this summer.
Here’s the existing tank (it is still running without fish for now in case I lose my nerve and decide to keep it freshwater as is). Current tank is too tall for me to be excited about maintaining and has some scratches so plan would be to replace it and have someone put wood paneling in the fill the gap.
pecan2phat
Valuable Member
So just a question.
If the current built in is an existing 220g, why would you replace it with a 180g?
The 180g would be too short for the existing enclosure frame, no?
As for plumbing it to the basement, it's relatively easy. The hardest part is getting up the nerve to drill a sizable hole through your stand and floor. You should elevate your basement sump with a simple 2'x4' stand which will make maintenance a little easier.
If the current built in is an existing 220g, why would you replace it with a 180g?
The 180g would be too short for the existing enclosure frame, no?
As for plumbing it to the basement, it's relatively easy. The hardest part is getting up the nerve to drill a sizable hole through your stand and floor. You should elevate your basement sump with a simple 2'x4' stand which will make maintenance a little easier.
I have heard that tanks that tall are a PITA to work with as you can’t reach the bottom with just an arm (have read lots of posts from people saying they broke down and will never again have a tank that tall). 180 would solve that problem - while creating the problem you point out, a hole above - my vision is to have a carpenter add a wooden panel door in that space so I think that’s solvable?
As said by someone above, a basement sump is not much different than one in stand except you have to make holes in floor or walls for the plumbing. And you also need a return pump with enough head pressure to push water up the increased elevation.
mike550
Valuable Member
@itgoeson if you can pull off a sump in the basement that would be so awesome. Wish I was set up for that. Two quick points.
First as others have pointed out the head height pressure for your return pump will be key. Remember if a pump says it’s max head is 15 feet that will be zero flow at 15 feet. A lot of pumps have head curves so for a given amount of head it will tell you the flow. Head loss isn’t just vertical rise. The size and length of plumbing and elbows etc all add to head loss.
Second (super obvious) but keep in mind how much water will flow back to the sump if the return pump goes off.
Good luck!
First as others have pointed out the head height pressure for your return pump will be key. Remember if a pump says it’s max head is 15 feet that will be zero flow at 15 feet. A lot of pumps have head curves so for a given amount of head it will tell you the flow. Head loss isn’t just vertical rise. The size and length of plumbing and elbows etc all add to head loss.
Second (super obvious) but keep in mind how much water will flow back to the sump if the return pump goes off.
Good luck!
Going with a 180 is actually probably smart because of lighting. They used currents which I guarantee sat right on top. Only reason I know is because of the pic. Your only real obstacle could be what’s beneath the floor to be able to run the lines.
thefuz
Active Member
+1 shorter/wider and also for basement/remote sump. Here's my situation.
I employ a Reeflo Hammerhead though I have Abizz A400 envy. I'm on my 2nd Hammerhead in close to 5 years (first one seized after about 2.5 years). They are loud but certainly do the job. I run return, skimmer, frag tank, and a couple of reactors no sweat. Don't recall head measurement but it's probably over 12ft with all the distance and turns.
I employ a Reeflo Hammerhead though I have Abizz A400 envy. I'm on my 2nd Hammerhead in close to 5 years (first one seized after about 2.5 years). They are loud but certainly do the job. I run return, skimmer, frag tank, and a couple of reactors no sweat. Don't recall head measurement but it's probably over 12ft with all the distance and turns.
mike550
Valuable Member
I don’t know how much the additional cost would be. Presumably the power consumption of a bigger pump and possibly a stronger heater because of the pipe runs (?). But what about adding the psychological savings and ease of a basement sump. Wish I could have done it.
thefuz
Active Member
I haven't done anything other than ballpark measurements and guesswork. It's more about the ability to do maintenance much more easily and with mess away from the areas the wife will see or care about!
The sump is located right near the boiler and in an enclosed space. Heater goes on for a couple of hours/night on colder nights during the Winter (DEC-FEB). Otherwise the temp is maintained by ambient temp of the room. The Hammerhead likely adds a considerable amount of heat on a regular basis. Temp swing is 0.75-1.25 degrees per day. I don't need to run a chiller either. Basement cool temps + central A/C upstairs counters the Summer heat on all but those few nice days when we just have the windows open (and on those the lights run for a shorter period).
Very important to insulate a basement space like this as much as possible (duct tape and foam FTW!).
This much extra space also allows me to upgrade/oversize the skimmer and set up a water change station.
The sump is located right near the boiler and in an enclosed space. Heater goes on for a couple of hours/night on colder nights during the Winter (DEC-FEB). Otherwise the temp is maintained by ambient temp of the room. The Hammerhead likely adds a considerable amount of heat on a regular basis. Temp swing is 0.75-1.25 degrees per day. I don't need to run a chiller either. Basement cool temps + central A/C upstairs counters the Summer heat on all but those few nice days when we just have the windows open (and on those the lights run for a shorter period).
Very important to insulate a basement space like this as much as possible (duct tape and foam FTW!).
This much extra space also allows me to upgrade/oversize the skimmer and set up a water change station.
Dburr1014
7500 Club Member
Sweet, I'm across the river in Haddam. I have a basement sump. I can snap some pics but I just say down for dinner. Lobster rolls tonight.I’m in East Haddam. The equipment I have now won’t work for a 180 (except maybe the ATO!) so it will be replaced. Planning Reef Breeders for lights and the rest TBD, probably a Hydros for automation. Budget is flexible so I’m shooting for decent quality but not top of the line equipment (planning softies and nems so not planning to go too crazy). The return height would be probably 6’ in the basement plus probably another 6’ to get through the floor and to the top of the tank (I’ll have to measure it). Maybe that’s just not feasible but I want to look into it... I don’t love the idea of cramming a big sump and skimmer etc all underneath the tank.
My plan is to get other work on the house done and start planning the build and learning how others have set theirs up. Would probably start buying stuff this summer.
Here’s the existing tank (it is still running without fish for now in case I lose my nerve and decide to keep it freshwater as is). Current tank is too tall for me to be excited about maintaining and has some scratches so plan would be to replace it and have someone put wood paneling in the fill the gap.
Dburr1014
7500 Club Member
My set up is the sump is directly under the tank. I choose to do a Rubbermaid 50 gallon sump. Lots of room for other equipment and if you lose power there is plenty of space for water without overflowing the tub.
I currently have a sicce syncra sdc 9.0 pump. I think they go to about 23/24 head? I have 14ft head to get over the rim of my tank. Definatly connect soft hose to the input /output of any pump you go with before the hard plumbing. That will cut back on noise and vibration. I'm getting about 360 gph turnover to the display. The pump is running at 71%.
My display is only a 75 gallon so I only have 1 overflow. I set it up as a herbie. 1 main drain and a emergency. You need a gate valve in the main drain for the adjustment. Which adjusting is easy to do with my DC pump. I plumbed the return over the top of the tank.
I currently have a sicce syncra sdc 9.0 pump. I think they go to about 23/24 head? I have 14ft head to get over the rim of my tank. Definatly connect soft hose to the input /output of any pump you go with before the hard plumbing. That will cut back on noise and vibration. I'm getting about 360 gph turnover to the display. The pump is running at 71%.
My display is only a 75 gallon so I only have 1 overflow. I set it up as a herbie. 1 main drain and a emergency. You need a gate valve in the main drain for the adjustment. Which adjusting is easy to do with my DC pump. I plumbed the return over the top of the tank.
Dburr1014
7500 Club Member
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