Discussion in 'Aquaforest' started by Aquaforest, Jan 13, 2016.
What bulb combo you have in total? By the way you have a beast of light so be very careful.
4 blue +, 2 pure actinic, a coral +, a purple + and then the reefbrite.
i've been scouring the net to learn more about the relation between nutrients and lighting and haven't found a ton. do you have any specific articles that i can learn from?
my nitrate is at 0.5ppm and phosphate are at 0.02ppm and while i know a person isn't supposed to "chase numbers" i am almost sitting in an ideal level from everything i've ever read. this leads me to believe that either i am just outright cooking my coral or there is some toxicity associated with this algae issue and it's destroying my tanks contents.
you've been a great teacher but i can't help to feel like a total failure with this aquaforest experiment that i was so optimistic about... aside from the np pro and pro bio s which are seemingly working perfectly lol.
You have a lot of blue light there. If I remember correctly PAR meters are not that good when it come to blue spectrum. So, although you have a lot of light but as its in blue spectrum your PAR meter will not pick them. Lower those to 30% total intensity without the reefbrite.
Your nutrient levels are not good. That low nitrate will always create issues. So, get some KNO3 or stump remover and dose that to bring your NO3 upto 2-5 ppm. Also, your algae is using a lot of nutrient and holding them so kill them. Your main 3 parameters are steady so just work on the nutrient issues now. It takes a lot of effort and time to make those nice tanks but we need to work slowly. Patience is the only and key thing in this hobby.
ok well i reduced my lighting substantially as the fact is my coral just looks like garbage and the brightest points of the day are where it's the most apparent. however the nutrient thing completely contradicts most of what i've been striving for based on this and many other articles i've been scouring for answers.
don't take this as "i don't believe you" i just don't understand how having 10x the nutrients as what is recommended in the article.
now there is no question how i've destroyed my tank outside of instability
Lol...I know you believe me because thats why you were following my instructions.
I did not say that bring your PO4 to 1ppm right but I said to bring up your NO3 to 2-5ppm. The reason is although lot of people and techniques like AF and Zeovit talk about ULNS for successful keeping of SPS but that technique is made for masters. When you create such a low nutrient environment then you also need to maintain a lot of other things under control. The chemical balance should be spot on, light should be perfect etc etc. Its easier to achieve in a full grown mature system rather than a newly started system. If you started your system from the very first day with this techniques then possibly you could have been in a better position but you are trying to convert so there will be a clash between your old environment and the new one. In the article, Randy talk about desirable condition and mimicking NSW but there are no strict rules. You need to adapt according to condition. If you were having a tank with full of SPS and grown mature colonies I would have suggested something else but you have a tank with algae and unstable parameters so we correct one thing at a time. Adaptation is the first step of ecology so slowly you need to train your system to handle its own problem but that will take months and sometime years.
you're getting to know me too well my friend lol@Anirban
i referenced that chart to the letter and even though i'm aware of practices such as the redfield ratio i was always told to keep it simple. what could be more simple than just starving the living crap out of a thousand dollars worth of coral to death lol.
ok well before reading your reply i told myself that Anirban knows better and to just shut up and go buy whatever he says so i went out on a hunt for spectracide and 4 stops later realized that its not a product approved for sale in Canada grrrrr!
i guess the next best thing is to go to my lfs and search for a nitrate supplement when they open tomorrow. i would guess that aquaforest doesn't make such a product? if not i'm open to any alternative you suggest... this time i won't whine about it lol.
also, before i forget... should i be putting a hold on my carbon dosing by reducing the dose?
You live in Canada .....lol.
Try to find stump remover...its potassium nitrate.
Reduce it to half.
no potassium nitrate whatsoever as its a banned substance here. something to do with bomb making or something crazy like that so its been off the shelves since 2013. i'll down the carbon dosing regiment.
Try to find Stump remover
Does anyone know the ratio for probiotic reef salt to a gallon of water? I know it's probably a simple calculation but I can't seem to get the salinity right when I mix my salt with RO water.
yup i ordered it as soon as i saw it... now lets see if the federal police deliver it themselves hahaha.
this begs the question, i can't imagine everyone running ULNS would be dosing stump remover. what is the alternative? also, i have coral that needs to survive until this stuff arrives. anything i can do in the meantime to prolong their lives? things aren't looking very good at the moment as many look light colored and spindly.
Instructions for use:
Dissolve the salt in the previously prepared demineralised water. Water temperature should be about 24°C (75°F). For salinity of 33 ppt dissolve about 3.75 kg (8.26 lbs) of salt in 100 litres (27 US gal) of water. Stir the solution vigorously for about 15 minutes. Once the salt is fully dissolved and the solution is clear, the saline water is ready to use. Keep the salt in a dry and dark place. Once Dissolved, use the salt within 48 hours. Keep out ofreach of children! Product for aquarium use only! Reef Salt is not suitable for human consumption! Safety data sheet available on request.
No, actually they dont. But they do stuffs differently. We will do that but not now. Its a hard to achieve balance but slowly you can reach there. Dont do water change now. Just run the ATI without reefbrite. Feed a bit more. Also, remember there will be another shift in nutrient when you start flucanozole as the algae die off will increase nutrient levels.
Do I have to run a ULNS in order to dose 1 2 3? My plan is to use the normal AF Reef Salt and only dose 1 2 3 without any other products.
I made a mixing portion in a spreadsheet based on AF recommended mix amounts. I get pretty close and from time to time I have to make adjustments. It all based an the temperature one mixes at, when I make the salinity adjustment to the system I will add salt in the sump to that I get a good mix. In closing there is not a exact, when mixing for the reason there is so many variables.
No, I run reef salt and run a higher nutrient system with phosphates around .02 to .03 and nitrates around 8 ppm.
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