Aquatic Life Debuts LED/T5HO Hybrid Mounting System Fixture Reef Hobbyists Have Been Waiting For!

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Nick Stone

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I bought 2 blue plus and 2 coral plus, but it is way whiter than I am used to with my LEDs. Might swap one for an actinic or something.
 

Clayton Jessup

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Here is my bulb combo
9d71199aa3bfbcc68e2451279fe026a3.jpg


2 ATI Coral Plus
2 ATI Actinic.

Thinking I may go with Radion XR15PRO’s or Kessil A360’s can’t decide .. what do you all think I should go with ?
 
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AquaticLifeProducts

AquaticLifeProducts

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So for an 18" wide tank, are you guys recommending the 18" plates, or insetting just over an inch with the 15.75" (A160) ?
We are working on making the round brackets for both A360 and A160 (two different brackets) to work with the 16" or the 18". The bracket will just rotate 90° to reduce the width. If you go to the 16" and use the A360 bracket you would only need the 16" end plates.

With an 18" wide aquarium I would keep it original with the 18" width. The area under the light is 14.5" of lighted output. So I would not shrink the width, personally.
 

Nick Stone

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So going from just 2 hydra 26 to this fixture, does anyone have a good acclimation method so I don't roast all my frags? I was thinking starting the T5s at 30 minutes a day and gradually working up to 4 hours at my peak LED ramp, adding 10 minutes extra per day. So it would take about a month to get up to full blast. Thoughts? Too quick, too slow?
 

ReefingwithO

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Here is my bulb combo
9d71199aa3bfbcc68e2451279fe026a3.jpg


2 ATI Coral Plus
2 ATI Actinic.

Thinking I may go with Radion XR15PRO’s or Kessil A360’s can’t decide .. what do you all think I should go with ?

Looking good. Did you simply zip tie the wires together at the back? Are they long enough to get to the bottom of the stand.

I am going to use the Kessil A360s. Plug and Play, I don't want to worry about spectrum plus I love the Kessil shimmer.
 

Kyl

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We are working on making the round brackets for both A360 and A160 (two different brackets) to work with the 16" or the 18". The bracket will just rotate 90° to reduce the width. If you go to the 16" and use the A360 bracket you would only need the 16" end plates.

With an 18" wide aquarium I would keep it original with the 18" width. The area under the light is 14.5" of lighted output. So I would not shrink the width, personally.
Gotcha, must have overlooked if that was mentioned earlier.

Thanks again!
 

Clayton Jessup

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Looking good. Did you simply zip tie the wires together at the back? Are they long enough to get to the bottom of the stand.

I am going to use the Kessil A360s. Plug and Play, I don't want to worry about spectrum plus I love the Kessil shimmer.

This what I did for the cables I went to my local lowes and picked up cable mounts similar to the Vortech cable mounts.. I am so glad I did. Instead of having cables on each end of the fixture lol [emoji23], the cables are 6ft long each they reached to about the middle of my stand . I am thinking of running my cables through my wall to make a even cleaner install especially with all led cables .

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JDowns

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So how long to ATI Blue Plus bulbs need to burn in before they stop looking like yellow puke?

Lyretail Anthias that use to pop orange - now muted yellow / orange
Green Birdsnest - now greenish / yellow
Purple Birdsnest (use to pop purple) - now I'm not sure what color you would call it
Anything that use to pop green, Goniopora colony, Blasto's, Zoas, etc are now a muted green
Anything red just got muted also.

There is decidedly a yellowish tint going on. Not sure if its a spike in green or what. I'm hoping this is burn in time related otherwise these bulbs are going in the heap.
 

rtparty

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So how long to ATI Blue Plus bulbs need to burn in before they stop looking like yellow puke?

Lyretail Anthias that use to pop orange - now muted yellow / orange
Green Birdsnest - now greenish / yellow
Purple Birdsnest (use to pop purple) - now I'm not sure what color you would call it
Anything that use to pop green, Goniopora colony, Blasto's, Zoas, etc are now a muted green
Anything red just got muted also.

There is decidedly a yellowish tint going on. Not sure if its a spike in green or what. I'm hoping this is burn in time related otherwise these bulbs are going in the heap.
Burn in is 50-100 hours but the bulb shouldn't be yellow at all. Make sure it is a Blue Plus and not an Aquablue Special.

If it is a Blue Plus, you could have a faulty bulb
 

JDowns

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Two Blue Plus and Two True Actinic.

If I run just the actinic with Kessils then everything is normal. If I run two Blue Plus then everything goes haywire. So its definitely the Blue Plus. This would be another faulty bulb then. I had to replace one of he actinic since the end wasn't sealed properly. After firing up the bulb it lit, then went out. There was a hissing noise once I took the bulb out of the rubber boot. BRS was awesome in replacing the bulb. Of course BRS is just plain awesome in everything customer related. I may just go with Gieseman Actinic Blues because I'm getting a bit tired of messing with bulb ordering and waiting.

Burn in is 50-100 hours but the bulb shouldn't be yellow at all. Make sure it is a Blue Plus and not an Aquablue Special.

If it is a Blue Plus, you could have a faulty bulb

Thanks for the heads up. That's what I figured. Burn in should be due to intensity not color range of the phosphors. Its almost as if there is a green spike mixing with the blue to create the yellow effect. But I'm no phosphor expert.
 

scuzy

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That's a lot of weight hanging on the arms and the glass it clamps on too.
 

Rock solid aquascape: Does the weight of the rocks in your aquascape matter?

  • The weight of the rocks is a key factor.

    Votes: 10 8.9%
  • The weight of the rocks is one of many factors.

    Votes: 41 36.6%
  • The weight of the rocks is a minor factor.

    Votes: 33 29.5%
  • The weight of the rocks is not a factor.

    Votes: 27 24.1%
  • Other.

    Votes: 1 0.9%
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