Aquatic Life Debuts LED/T5HO Hybrid Mounting System Fixture Reef Hobbyists Have Been Waiting For!

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ChrisNH

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Would the 36” provide reasonable coverage with only 4xT5ho for the FOWLR phase of my 40B tank? I like the option to invest in LED down the road. Perhaps with the 16” plates?
 

gobble

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I got rid of the hanging kit and used the Kessil A mount arms with my Radion XR30

a9925413bac028c306acbe778e25280d.jpg

That looks far better than my hanging fixture, but wow I'd be afraid of snapping the back glass especially with the 61" fixture. That's a lot of leverage trying to pull down that back wall.
 
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When the dimmable version is available, will you guys release the upgrade kits at the same time?

It will be released after. We are still working out what parts need to be modified and included to make it any easy upgrade.

We are thinking that we release the dimmable ballast and the modified parts to move the power cords to the same side. We are wondering should we include new power cords, so that people not familiar with strain reliefs don't have to worry about how to release the cords.

Need to find a split 3.5mm wire lead to allow the 0 -10 V to feed into both fixtures and tip them to insert into the dimmable ballast.

Then the endplates would need to be modified to allow the additional wires to feed through the sides.

Just trying to have a complete upgrade without requiring additional modifications by the customers.
 
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Would the 36” provide reasonable coverage with only 4xT5ho for the FOWLR phase of my 40B tank? I like the option to invest in LED down the road. Perhaps with the 16” plates?

That should be no problem. a 40B is 36" x 18" I think. You may not need to narrow the fixture from the 18" stock version. The lighted area is around 14.5" underneath.
 

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That looks far better than my hanging fixture, but wow I'd be afraid of snapping the back glass especially with the 61" fixture. That's a lot of leverage trying to pull down that back wall.

Thanks. Yeah, for the 61" I would definitely use a different mount.

Looks good. Concerned with the back glass, did you use the Kessil extensions to mount to the stand, instead of the glass?

Thanks, I used two A mount stands only. I think the glass is thick enough on the Reefer 250 to support the 36" fixture and 1 XR30.
 

gobble

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How did you attach the brackets that hang over your tank to the fixture? I'm thinking maybe I could bend my brackets so they're level to the tank (right now they aim up a little bit back to front) then attach the fixture directly like you did. That would look so much better than hanging it.

This is kind of one of those duh why didn't I think of that moments, but why can't I just let my fixture sit on the mounting bars that hang over the tank? I supposed I'd cause a slight shadow in that 3/8" but shouldn't matter.

IMG_0725.JPG
 

Kyl

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That looks far better than my hanging fixture, but wow I'd be afraid of snapping the back glass especially with the 61" fixture. That's a lot of leverage trying to pull down that back wall.
That's exactly why not to do it. Something falls on top of that fixture, or bump into it, whatever reason and I'd hate to near snap followed by the sound of saltwater rapidly exiting a tank.
 
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Shoob1e

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It will be released after. We are still working out what parts need to be modified and included to make it any easy upgrade.

We are thinking that we release the dimmable ballast and the modified parts to move the power cords to the same side. We are wondering should we include new power cords, so that people not familiar with strain reliefs don't have to worry about how to release the cords.

Need to find a split 3.5mm wire lead to allow the 0 -10 V to feed into both fixtures and tip them to insert into the dimmable ballast.

Then the endplates would need to be modified to allow the additional wires to feed through the sides.

Just trying to have a complete upgrade without requiring additional modifications by the customers.

Still looking like April for the dimmable version?
 

gobble

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Where are you guys settling on PAR with LED + T5?

What I quickly found is that my LED's on the current settings plus the T5's are giving me PAR in the 500's. With only an hour a day of T5 I already bleached a small coral on day 2.

I was thinking I'd continue using my LED's as the main lighting source and supplement that during X hours of the day with T5's. I don't think that's possible however, unless I lower the LED during the time the T5 is on and dial the LED back up when the T5 goes off. I'm not sure that makes sense to do it that way though.

It seems like the only way to use this is to rely on the T5 as the primary lighting source and dial the LED down to supplement the T5? Maybe do a slow ramp up with the LED to the time the T5's kick in, then do a slow ramp down after the T5's turn off at night? That probably works but not what I was planning.

How is everyone else acclimating to the dramatic change in PAR?


 

gobble

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My corals have looked better then ever in the few weeks since I installed this fixture. What schedules is everyone else running? I've been thinking of migrating to the WEC schedule.
 

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