Are people sleeping on Orphek OR3s?

[atlantean]

I've been running two AI Prime 16HDs over a SPS-dominated IM Peninsula. They're fine for growing the corals but they don't develop color on the sides, meaning you can only appreciate their color if you're looking from overhead.

I'm going to try supplementing with an Orphek OR3 but was thinking about switching over to all OR3 bars. Most of LED fixtures have square coverage areas which drives me crazy because it forces you to buy more lights and mount them closer to the water to prevent light spill.

Anyone tried running only OR3s? Or do you have any suggestions for mounting the LED bars with my setup?

 

[dedragon]

That happens with all tanks, especially regular glass tanks compared to low iron glass. Looking down on corals always shows the best colors. Orphek OR3 bars are definitely not slept on here, many people use them alone or more often in conjunction with t5s or other led pendants. Tried and true led bar option

 

[Spare time]

Keep in mind that lights either have square coverage (which makes sense given that tanks normally are in 12 inch increments in length) OR you have to multiple strips to light the same amount of area with the same intensity. So one strip light that is 4ft will not properly light a 4ft tank. You would need maybe 5 of them. Alternatively, you can multiple smaller puck lights to do the same job. The pros and cons depend on the light (spread, colorblending, heat, etc) and personal preference for shimmer.

As for light spill, that is simply because you have a tiny tank being lit by a light designed for a 20x20 or 24x24 area. It is going to spill out because lights are tools for specific purposes. You can get shades on the side to prevent light spill. If you don't want a wide spread, you would want something like the kessil narrow reflector style set ups.

I am also unsure what you mean by you can only appreciate the colors from above. If the glass is clean and you are running quality carbon, you shouldn't have issues with colors. No light is going to make it look like there is no glass as that is just not possible given that, by nature, you cant have a fish tank without glass. As dedragon mentioned, low iron glass is advertised as clearer.


Orphek is pretty popular so I wouldn't say that they are not widely used on here.

 

[atlantean]

Keep in mind that lights either have square coverage (which makes sense given that tanks normally are in 12 inch increments in length) OR you have to multiple strips to light the same amount of area with the same intensity. So one strip light that is 4ft will not properly light a 4ft tank. You would need maybe 5 of them. Alternatively, you can multiple smaller puck lights to do the same job. The pros and cons depend on the light (spread, colorblending, heat, etc) and personal preference for shimmer.

As for light spill, that is simply because you have a tiny tank being lit by a light designed for a 20x20 or 24x24 area. It is going to spill out because lights are tools for specific purposes. You can get shades on the side to prevent light spill. If you don't want a wide spread, you would want something like the kessil narrow reflector style set ups.

I am also unsure what you mean by you can only appreciate the colors from above. If the glass is clean and you are running quality carbon, you shouldn't have issues with colors. No light is going to make it look like there is no glass as that is just not possible given that, by nature, you cant have a fish tank without glass. As dedragon mentioned, low iron glass is advertised as clearer.


Orphek is pretty popular so I wouldn't say that they are not widely used on here.

Thank you, but you can give me the benefit of the doubt that I'm not proposing to get rid of my glass or light up a whole tank with one strip light.

I'm more complaining the directionality of light intensity and pigment development, not the glass. Stringing multiple pucks together is only creating two dimensional overlap. With only left and right overlap, its akin to illuminating the roof and sides of the house but not the view from the street. I know this is why some reefers mount their lights farther forward and tilt them slightly back so you're developing more pigment on the front side where you view the corals from. I can't really do that on a peninsula-style tank since I'll just be neglecting one of the primary sides.

With all the discussion about hybrid lighting to increase spread and minimize shading, I'm just surprised its so difficult to find many people running full LED bar setups when I look through the forums.

 

[dedragon]

To create the same effect you can either add 1 more ai prime and angle the 2 at the ends towards the inner part of the tank and the one in the middle directed straight down. Or add 2 orphek blue plus bars, 1 to each longer side to direct light at that angle towards the coral.
That is more of a shading issue where corals lose tissue though and wont necessarily make the corals themselves pop more unless they were in very dimly lit part of the tank.

 

[oreo54]

With all the discussion about hybrid lighting to increase spread and minimize shading, I'm just surprised its so difficult to find many people running full LED bar setups when I look through the forums.

Probably because they are one trick ponies for the most part.
no dimming, no channel tweaking, really no easy tank mounts ect.

 

[Spare time]

Thank you, but you can give me the benefit of the doubt that I'm not proposing to get rid of my glass or light up a whole tank with one strip light.

I'm more complaining the directionality of light intensity and pigment development, not the glass. Stringing multiple pucks together is only creating two dimensional overlap. With only left and right overlap, its akin to illuminating the roof and sides of the house but not the view from the street. I know this is why some reefers mount their lights farther forward and tilt them slightly back so you're developing more pigment on the front side where you view the corals from. I can't really do that on a peninsula-style tank since I'll just be neglecting one of the primary sides.

With all the discussion about hybrid lighting to increase spread and minimize shading, I'm just surprised its so difficult to find many people running full LED bar setups when I look through the forums.

Sorry I was simply making a joke that our tanks need glass I apologize if that sounded bad.


I think its not practical to aim for stronger coloration on the part of the coral you are viewing unless you have multiple lights coming in at different angles (of which reef brites are the only light I know that can do this (all the lights can swivel on the hanging fixture). You might be interested in something like that. There really isn't a lighting solution other than angling led bars on hanging fixtures but these are just starting to get popular (thanks to brs)

 

[Big E]

Probably because they are one trick ponies for the most part.
no dimming, no channel tweaking, really no easy tank mounts ect.

That's more of what this hobby needs....one trick pony setup. Most people would have a lot more success.

I agree with the OP from a maintenance, price, future applications & replacement, multiple LED strip lights would be the way to go. Set and forget, no settings or programs needed. Get the right mix of bars and then mount to the correct height, buy a $15 light timer and you're good to go.

I believe Reefbrite makes tank mounts for their strips in multiple applications.

All that other junk(software) is just a useless toy.

The new wave is to try to mimic replace T5 with the likes of the sky, strattons and phillips yet the best replacement for T5 are LED strips one for one.

 

[atlantean]

That's more of what this hobby needs....one trick pony setup. Most people would have a lot more success.

I agree with the OP from a maintenance, price, future applications & replacement, multiple LED strip lights would be the way to go. Set and forget, no settings or programs needed. Get the right mix of bars and then mount to the correct height, buy a $15 light timer and you're good to go.

I believe Reefbrite makes tank mounts for their strips in multiple applications.

All that other junk(software) is just a useless toy.

The new wave is to try to mimic replace T5 with the likes of the sky, strattons and phillips yet the best replacement for T5 are LED strips one for one.

I agree that most of these premium features are completely unnecessary. Reefbrites are fine but I'd prefer something with a broader spectrum. I'd like to see a manufacturer double down on making LED strips that aren't meant to be supplemental and undercut a lot of these other lights with their bells and whistles.

Think about all the R&D that has gone into Radions just to support a small form factor. Fancy optics to increase spread, "evolved heatsink" and custom fan since it can't be passively cooled. Tack on their wireless control and app development and it seems like there's a lot of room to get equivalent (or better) light performance in a simpler product. Maybe something like LED strips that can be installed and swapped out in a simple shell (much like T5s).

Something that has lower power LEDs but a denser arrangement to even out the spectrum would also be ideal. Looking at the Orpheks, I have no idea why they decided to put one random amber LED on the side of their OR60 and OR90 strips.

 

[dedragon]

There are lower powered options out there, the best i can think of is 21ledusa.com with the reefbar pro

 

[dedragon]

idk how much testing there is on this light though

 

[dvgyfresh]

I only run orphek or3 90s above my 40b , I have a total of 5 , 3 blue , 2 reef day. About 10 anemones and they are happy lol just spawned last week

 

[dedragon]

dvgy, tank is looking great, honestly 5 over a 40b is probably overkill, lol. I think that would put out more light than 1 orphek atlantik and is cheaper too

 

[dvgyfresh]

dvgy, tank is looking great, honestly 5 over a 40b is probably overkill, lol. I think that would put out more light than 1 orphek atlantik and is cheaper too

Yes you are probly right , 2 of them were sent on accident by Amazon lol I meant to only have 3 but I thought anemones wouldn’t mind more light

 

[hart24601]

@BeardedMcG care to show your recent pics using orphek bars?

 

[oreo54]

In a personal rant, drivers capable of dimming are really a "must" w/ led technology.
There's no reason not to include it.
Technology and cost to manuf it in appears to be minimal.
Orphek made lip service of going with dimmable drivers but has yet made good in their "promise".

 

[dvgyfresh]

I also stagger the lighting with a Kasa power strip so all 5 on get a max of 5 hours on , atleast blues on from 12-11

 

[dedragon]

In a personal rant, drivers capable of dimming are really a "must" w/ led technology.
There's no reason not to include it.
Technology and cost to manuf it in appears to be minimal.
Orphek made lip service of going with dimmable drivers but has yet made good in their "promise".

Honestly im surprised no one has tried to use a dimmable meanwell driver and splice it into the proprietary cables. But also it is a bit unfair because they have said dimmable units were gonna come out since the orphek OR2

 

[dvgyfresh]

I couldn’t recommend orphek enough , I love the way corals pop , they sent me a free driver when one of my lights driver broke , and also sent a free orphek lens kit. Customer service is top notch and they discounted the lights when buying through a rep

 

[oreo54]

Honestly im surprised no one has tried to use a dimmable meanwell driver and splice it into the proprietary cables. But also it is a bit unfair because they have said dimmable units were gonna come out since the orphek OR2

I've "done the math" before. Some sizes differ
but Meanwell dimmable substitutes are available. With the release of more "AB" versions it's easier to match.

Think it is psychological pay x dollars and now add $40 for new drivers and fighting with plugs and voiding warranties.