Are these parameters good for an anenome or hammer coral?

Hectorg214

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I'm thinking about getting an anenome or hammer coral this weekend but wanted to know if these parameters are ok for them. I know phosphates are high so I'm getting some phosguard and carbon to fix that. I don't have a test for magnesium yet but plan on getting one. As for lighting I have a coralife dual T5 light and a Fluval marine 3.0. Any advice would help.
 

Terry Le

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I'm thinking about getting an anenome or hammer coral this weekend but wanted to know if these parameters are ok for them. I know phosphates are high so I'm getting some phosguard and carbon to fix that. I don't have a test for magnesium yet but plan on getting one. As for lighting I have a coralife dual T5 light and a Fluval marine 3.0. Any advice would help.
What are your parameter? you did not listed. What kind of anemone are you thinking of getting?
 
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Hectorg214

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Sorry.
 

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laverda

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I don't think your ready for an anemone yet. Anemones do not do well in new tanks, especially if started with dry rock. Nitrates are low phosphates are fine for the corals your thinking of getting. How long have your numbers been the same?
 
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Hectorg214

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My tank is going on two years. I really only tested for ammonia, ph, nitrate and nitrites using the api test kit. I recently started testing for calcium, phosphates and alkalinity because I want to get more into corals.
 

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laverda

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Api test kits are know for not being very accurate. Alkalinity is the most important single thing to test for. I recommend Salifert test kits. Almost anything is better then API. You want to keep your temp, salinity and alk very stable. There should be no reason to test for ammonia and nitrite on a 2 year old tank. Do you have more rock in your sump? Anemones require a lot of light and use nitrate as a food source.
 
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Hectorg214

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I use hanna checkers for calcium, phosphates and alkalinity. I use a milwaukee refractometer to measure salinity which is always at 1.025 - 1.026. I don't have a sump. I have a hang on back filter and skimmer.
 

Jekyl

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BTA are pretty hardy as long as you have good lighting and steady parameters
 

Dkmoo

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Get a nem guard for that WaveMaker before you get the bta, unless you want to wake up to a tank of nem soup the next day.

They move quite a bit
 

Terry Le

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Bubble Tip Anemone (BTA) would be your best choice. They will move around so make sure that they dont end up in power head. Till they find the sweet spot that they like flow and light. My have not move over 10 years and it is under 250 watts Meatal Halide and not too far from one of the MP60
 

Pistondog

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+1 @Terry Le for bta, phosphate a little high, maybe run some gfo.
Get one and have fun.
Place him where you want him in some rock, pumps off, let him get a grip.
 

vetteguy53081

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All those zeros tell me that you are getting false readings and your question is questionable.
I would have a trusted LFS that does NOT use API test kits test and verify your readings.
 
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Hectorg214

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All those zeros tell me that you are getting false readings and your question is questionable.
I would have a trusted LFS that does NOT use API test kits test and verify your readings.
Well before I get a fish or coral I always take a water sample to my lfs to make sure my water parameters are good? Only zeros are ammonia and nitrite. Shouldn't ammonia be zero???
 

Jekyl

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I'd invest in your own set of salifert tests before going down the anemone road. There may come a time where quick reaction is needed
 

Terry Le

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Well before I get a fish or coral I always take a water sample to my lfs to make sure my water parameters are good? Only zeros are ammonia and nitrite. Shouldn't ammonia be zero???
Yes I believe your parameters are good. Phos not but you are going to take care of it
 

RobertTheNurse

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Is the lighting sufficient? Dual T5 and Fluval marine light.
Your zoas look like they are stretching. That may be an indication of poor lighting. What size tank you have? I had a Fluval 3.0 marine for my tank when I first got it.

My corals were "ok" but like yours show my zoas really stretched. I switched to AI PRIME 16HD and they all receded and are POPPING and growing new heads. I'd start off by buying better test kits. Anemones need REALLY stable (non-fluctuating) water parameters, and then you have to "baby proof" your tank. Get powerhead covers and will have to protect your intake hose as well. You don't want to wake up one day to shredding anemone.

Also. Nems like to move around a lot. Be prepared to move your corals around (as needed). Once your anemone is stabilized....THEY GROW and SPLIT.

Lovely creatures, I wanted them as well, but IMO they are more work than fish lol

Best of luck
 

Dom

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I'm thinking about getting an anenome or hammer coral this weekend but wanted to know if these parameters are ok for them. I know phosphates are high so I'm getting some phosguard and carbon to fix that. I don't have a test for magnesium yet but plan on getting one. As for lighting I have a coralife dual T5 light and a Fluval marine 3.0. Any advice would help.

Your tank looks really nice! Are those Colt corals?

From the picture, I'd say that your tank appears to be established and healthy. But I sense that the lighting might be borderline for Anemones.

Hammer corals are generally easy to keep. Moderate flow and lighting are all the are really require. If this is your first anemone, I would suggest something entry level, like a simple Bubble Tip. Be sure you have ample lighting for the anemone. It will move to a location in the tank which it likes.

If you have issues with water parameters, I would recommend that you hold off on your plans to add these guys to your tank. Not only is it important that your water parameters be "right", they need to be stable which I define as "right for a long time". So as has been previously suggested, post your latest water test parameters for us to see.

If there are issues with your water parameters, please do not run out and buy a "bottled solution". If your water parameters are less than desirable, there is an underlying cause and bottled solutions only mask the problem.

More information on your lighting is also important. There are two things for you to consider when assessing the adequacy of your lighting:

1. Light Spread: This refers to how much of your light covers the bottom of your tank. Your light needs to reach all four corners of your tank. Based on your photograph, I would say that your light spread is good.

2. Light Intensity: This refers to the amount of light that reaches the bottom of the tank. Typically, this is measured in LUMENS or PAR. While the preferred unit of measure is in PAR, I measure in LUMENS as I only have a lux meter. I aim for a range of 8k-10k lumens at the tank bottom. Have you every measured your light intensity with a meter?
 

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