Are these parameters good for an anenome or hammer coral?

[Hectorg214]

Your zoas look like they are stretching. That may be an indication of poor lighting. What size tank you have? I had a Fluval 3.0 marine for my tank when I first got it.

My corals were "ok" but like yours show my zoas really stretched. I switched to AI PRIME 16HD and they all receded and are POPPING and growing new heads. I'd start off by buying better test kits. Anemones need REALLY stable (non-fluctuating) water parameters, and then you have to "baby proof" your tank. Get powerhead covers and will have to protect your intake hose as well. You don't want to wake up one day to shredding anemone.

Also. Nems like to move around a lot. Be prepared to move your corals around (as needed). Once your anemone is stabilized....THEY GROW and SPLIT.

Lovely creatures, I wanted them as well, but IMO they are more work than fish lol

Best of luck

Tank is 72 gallon bowfront. I use hanna checkers for calcium, phosphates and alkalinity. API for others. Will probably get a salifert for magnesium.

 

[RobertTheNurse]

I'd look into better lighting as well if you really want a nem. If yours is as deep as my tank, I could barely keep zoas alive.

 

[Hectorg214]

Your tank looks really nice! Are those Colt corals?

From the picture, I'd say that your tank appears to be established and healthy. But I sense that the lighting might be borderline for Anemones.

Hammer corals are generally easy to keep. Moderate flow and lighting are all the are really require. If this is your first anemone, I would suggest something entry level, like a simple Bubble Tip. Be sure you have ample lighting for the anemone. It will move to a location in the tank which it likes.

If you have issues with water parameters, I would recommend that you hold off on your plans to add these guys to your tank. Not only is it important that your water parameters be "right", they need to be stable which I define as "right for a long time". So as has been previously suggested, post your latest water test parameters for us to see.

If there are issues with your water parameters, please do not run out and buy a "bottled solution". If your water parameters are less than desirable, there is an underlying cause and bottled solutions only mask the problem.

More information on your lighting is also important. There are two things for you to consider when assessing the adequacy of your lighting:

1. Light Spread: This refers to how much of your light covers the bottom of your tank. Your light needs to reach all four corners of your tank. Based on your photograph, I would say that your light spread is good.

2. Light Intensity: This refers to the amount of light that reaches the bottom of the tank. Typically, this is measured in LUMENS or PAR. While the preferred unit of measure is in PAR, I measure in LUMENS as I only have a lux meter. I aim for a range of 8k-10k lumens at the tank bottom. Have you every measured your light intensity with a meter?

Those are kenya trees. Well right now I have a dual T5 but looking for a four bulb T5. And have never measured my light intensity.

 

[Hectorg214]

These are my current parameters. And wondering if the red rose anemone is easy to take care of??

 

[Dom]

These are my current parameters. And wondering if the red rose anemone is easy to take care of??

I'd try to tighten them up some more. Ammonia, Calcium, Phosphate all could be better.

Ammonia should be zero (which test kit do your use?). I keep my calcium in the 420-440 range. I think phosphates could be lower.

 

[Hectorg214]

I use API for ammonia, nitrate, nitrites, ph and hanna checkers for calcium, alkalinity and phosphates. And I'm working on getting my phosphates even lower using phosguard.

 

[Dom]

I use API for ammonia, nitrate, nitrites, ph and hanna checkers for calcium, alkalinity and phosphates. And I'm working on getting my phosphates even lower using phosguard.

So, API is notorious for delivering ammonia test results of .25 when it is really zero.

Also, it is better to identify the source of your phosphates and correct the problem than it is to counter your phosphates with additives.

 

[Hectorg214]

So, API is notorious for delivering ammonia test results of .25 when it is really zero.

Also, it is better to identify the source of your phosphates and correct the problem than it is to counter your phosphates with additives.

That's where I'm confused . I only have three fish: maroon clownfish ( that's why I want the anemone), melanurus wrasse and a snowflake eel. I feed the fish once a day and the eel twice a week. I dose Red sea AB+ twice a week so don't know where my high phosphates are coming from.

 

[Dom]

That's where I'm confused . I only have three fish: maroon clownfish ( that's why I want the anemone), melanurus wrasse and a snowflake eel. I feed the fish once a day and the eel twice a week. I dose Red sea AB+ twice a week so don't know where my high phosphates are coming from.

So we need to know more about your system. How big? Do you have a sump? What do you feed?

Over time, anything organic in your tank will break down and release phosphate into your tank. This is why you cycle dry rock before putting it in your tank. If you don't, organics in the rock will break down and release phosphates, usually resulting in an algae bloom (once made that mistake). Do you have an algae bloom in your tank?

Also, I understand dry and frozen foods can be a big source of nitrates. I rinse my frozen foods with RODI before feeding to the tank and only feed dry from an automatic feeder when on vacation.

Are you using tap water or RODI? If you are using local tap water, that can be a source of phosphate.

 

[Hectorg214]

72 gallon bowfront no sump with hob protein skimmer and emperor 400 filter. I feed my fish flakes and once a week a small piece of frozen food. My eel gets either shrimp or scallops. RODI water and always get this brown algae on back glass which I'm constantly cleaning. Tank will be two years old in June.

 

[Dom]

72 gallon bowfront no sump with hob protein skimmer and emperor 400 filter. I feed my fish flakes and once a week a small piece of frozen food. My eel gets either shrimp or scallops. RODI water and always get this brown algae on back glass which I'm constantly cleaning. Tank will be two years old in June.

Okay!

A 72 gallon tank is a decent size for a snowflake, so you're good in that regard. And the HOB skimmer, if properly sized for the tank and inhabitants should be doing the job, if the tank was fresh water.

But your filtration is inadequate for a reef tank and the inhabitants you keep. What you have for filtration is geared more toward fresh water. Was this once a fresh water tank that you've converted into salt water?

Both fish flakes and frozen food food are a source of phosphates. I would stick to thoroughly rinsed frozen food for regular feeding and only use flake for automatic feeding while on vacation.

I am happy to hear that you are using RODI. I would suggest that you test the output from the RODI and check that you are getting ZERO TDS in the water it produces. Also check the water for phosphates. If you get a TDS reading over zero and/or have phosphates present, it may be time to change the media in your RODI filter.

FAITHFUL weekly water changes of 25% will go a long way in keeping your phosphates down. At 72 gallons, 25% water changes equals 18 gallons weekly. How much and how often do you do water changes?

Before you add anything, I'd check the items I mentioned above.

Hammer corals are relatively easy to keep and I would consider them entry level corals. Anemones, not so much.

But for BOTH, there are important things to remember; adequate lighting and flow are essential.

If your Emperor 400 is the only source of flow in the tank, that will be woefully inadequate, particularly for the Anemone. As currently configured, the Anemone will likely move around the tank looking for ample flow, and wouldn't be surprised to see it attach itself to the drain tube of your filter.

The other very important thing to consider is lighting. You could have perfect water (chemically speaking) and still not be successful in keeping a Nem without ample lighting. What kind of lighting do you have?

 

[Hectorg214]

I started it as a fowlr tank first. It was never a fresh water tank. My lfs said since it was fowlr, that filtration would work. Which it did. But then I slowly started buying easy corals like kenya trees, purple pulsing xenia, sinularia and they all did well. I do a 20 gallon water change every 3 weeks. I also have a jebao wave maker for movement. As for lighting, I have a Fluval marine light 3.0 and a coralife T5 light with ATI bulbs.

 

[Dom]

I started it as a fowlr tank first. It was never a fresh water tank. My lfs said since it was fowlr, that filtration would work. Which it did. But then I slowly started buying easy corals like kenya trees, purple pulsing xenia, sinularia and they all did well. I do a 20 gallon water change every 3 weeks. I also have a jebao wave maker for movement. As for lighting, I have a Fluval marine light 3.0 and a coralife T5 light with ATI bulbs.

Ok.

First, be VERY careful of what the LFS tells you. They are struggling to compete with on line businesses and selling you something is their highest priority. Accuracy of information comes second.

In my view, the amount of filtration you are providing is inadequate, especially with the bio-load produced by the snowflake. The area of mechanical filtration in a small HOB filter won't do the job. Also, you need about 1 pound of live rock per gallon of water. Do you know the total weight of your live rock?

If you would upgrade to a sump, you could have a refugium which would allow you to export nutrients like nitrates and phosphates. You could also add a huge area dedicated to mechanical filtration, using different media to strain out different size particles. I have a 1 cubic foot chamber with assorted filter media for mechanical filtration on a 50 gallon display.

A 20 gallon water change once every three weeks is inadequate, considering the bio-load produced by the snowflake and the size of the filter you currently have. I would recommend a minimum of 15 gallons once per week.

Good choice on the wave maker; flow shouldn't be an issue!

I learned as a general rule, reef tanks require about 5 watts of light per gallon of water in the display. That would be a bit over 350 watts in your tank. I'm not familiar with the Fluval light you mention, but a quick look at the specs shows 850 Lumens.

I shoot for 8000-10,000 lumens at the deepest point in the tank. I believe the 850 lumen rating of your light is the light's intensity at the surface of the water. If so, you're getting less at the deepest part of your tank. But when combined with the T5, you might be ok.

I would spend available funds on upgrading the hardware to support the stock you want to have in your tank before adding more livestock.

 

[Hectorg214]

I probably have around 40Lbs of live rock. So what if I add more live rock and add another filter? Say an aquaclear? Would that work??

 

[Dom]

I probably have around 40Lbs of live rock. So what if I add more live rock and add another filter? Say an aquaclear? Would that work??

Sorry my friend; in my opinion, you need to make some upgrades. Another HOB filter would be throwing good money after bad.

Do you have room for a sump?

 

[Hectorg214]

Maybe. But would have to do alot of research before jumping into that.

 

[anthonygf]

Get another wavemaker for behind the rocks. Get more live rock and a sump with adjustable flow return pump.

 

[Dom]

Maybe. But would have to do alot of research before jumping into that.

Post some pictures of your setup; let me see what you're working with.

 

[Hectorg214]

Post some pictures of your setup; let me see what you're working with.

Protein skimmer and emperor 400.

 

[Dom]

Protein skimmer and emperor 400.

Yes, in my opinion your filtration isn't capable of supporting the tank. This is why you get algae growth; you haven't any means of exporting the nutrient.

The best way to get your phosphates down is water changes. And with your current load, if you can't upgrade your filtration, weekly 20 gallon water changes are what I would suggest.