Are you doing this with your aquarium return pump? Maybe you should be!

[ca1ore]

Oh dear .....

1. If at all possible have your aquarium return pump on it's on circuit.

That's a no.

2. Plug your return pump directly into the electrical outlet. Don't use a power strip or even an aquarium controller.

Also a no (though there is method to my madness).

3. Clean your return pump regularly to keep it running smoothly and efficiently!

Once every 5 years IS regularly .... just not frequently.

4. Make sure the return intake of your pump isn't restricted.

Agreed

5. KEEP A SPARE PUMP FOR AN EMERGENCY!

Yes sir!

 

[KWT]

I have my pump plugged into a battery backup, along with most of the other equipment

 

[Fezbearer]

I have it on my controller, but where my tank is located, another plug isn't handy. I do keep a spare pump on hand though just in case.

 

[pbmahaffey]

I have mine on the battery back-up

 

[dieselkeeper]

Since set up my tank, return has been on a separate circuit. Heaters tripped my GFCI several times. Always when I was at work. Saved my tank that way.

 

[ssster2020]

OK time for a rookie mistake. My nano tank is in a corner, beside the couch in the living room. It was a pain getting to the outlet where the return pp was plugged. Me, being a smart guy, decides to use a smart power strip allowing me to turn things off using voice commands. No more couch moving. Me, being not as smart as I think I am, doesn’t realize that when the power is list to the power strip it won’t power up without intervention. Tanks cycling, I go on vacay for a week. My daughter’s nice enough to look after things. Goes up the first day and accidentally shuts off power to the strip. A week without flow until I get home! Live and learn.

 

[Oldsalt]

Quick tips and QOTD today! It's simple but could really save your tank one day! Your aquarium return pump is the heart of your system and needs to be running at all times and there are some things you can do to make sure it is always pumping! Breakers can get tripped, power strips can quit working and pumps get dirty and can stop pumping! Here are a few tips and I hope that you will share some of your own.

1. If at all possible have your aquarium return pump on it's on circuit.

2. Plug your return pump directly into the electrical outlet. Don't use a power strip or even an aquarium controller.

3. Clean your return pump regularly to keep it running smoothly and efficiently!

4. Make sure the return intake of your pump isn't restricted.

5. KEEP A SPARE PUMP FOR AN EMERGENCY!

Do you have your return pump on it's on circuit and do you think that is necessary? What about these other tips?

Please share any tips you have for making sure your return pump is running at all times!

On its "on" circuit??? May I suggest that you utilise the convenient preview feature before you post so they can be corrected before clicking to post.
It's a lot easier and quicker than being asked by another member, then having to go back and edit it.
Thanks

 

[siggy]

Makes sense to me. I have my refrigerator on a separate non gfci circuit, don't want to spoil my fish food

 

[hotdrop]

The return pump isn’t that important as long as they wave maker has power that’s the important part. I have the wave maker on battery backup and that’s all that matters. Return pumps being critical was important 5-10 years ago when people relied on the as primary aeration and circulation

 

[thewalkingdad]

I run two return pumps. Each is plugged into a different EB832, and each EB832 is on a different circuit (one 15a and one 20a).

I believe the ability to monitor and control the pump with the Apex to be better than plugging the return pumps directly into the wall.

I also have a third return pump that is powering my mixing station. I can cannibalize that pump is necessary.

 

[RMS18]

Not sure I agree with return pump on its own circuit bypassing a controller like apex.

My tank has its own circuit. Having the return pump plugged into my controller will let me know if the pump fails, unlike having it plugged into wall. I can also monitor the power it consumes, identifying if something is up with the pump. Like to know where you are getting this advice from...

If my pump does fail, I'll be alerted and I'll swap it out for the spare I have saved. Also have battery backups for my PH which is more important for gas exchange. I see plugging it into the wall actually makes this more unsafe.

 

[oldbob50]

Entire system is on a UPS that will hold the tank for 4 hours with lights and 6 without them. Have generator backup for more extended outages. Heaters are not on the UPS but my system will only drop 3 degrees in 24 hours if they are not on and then stays at 75 degrees. Corals not happy but no damage. There is no monitoring system but the bio system has handled the pump being off overnight with no noticeable effect. The tank is tended several times a day so a pump failure would be obvious and handled within a few hours. I do have several backup pumps. The primary pump is cleaned and inspected regularly . This is a mixed reef with very easy SPS corals so it is somewhat forgiving.

 

[OmarSan]

My return pump (Magdrive 18), works well in the Aquacontroller high amp outlet, the delay in the outages of energy also keep out overflowing of the skimmer, outages in Venezuela are a very very serious problem

 

[FishTruck]

Three circuits areas

1. Return pump (plus apex, dialyseas, RO / DI)
2. Skimmer (Plus ROllermats and heater)
3. Power heads (plus lights)

If any ONE goes down... the tank still lives. If TWO circuits get tripped - then there is trouble.

 

[DSEKULA]

Two return pumps hooked up to apex two different eb. Aquarium has two dedicated circuits if one fails i can switch them remotely.

 

[sarcophytonIndy]

My DC return pump is on a battery backup. It is only 40W, so no worries about it drawing too much current.

 

[prsnlty]

Other!
I have mine on my Apex and the Apex on its own circuit

 

[clffthmps]

I’ve been doing electrical and installing HVAC equipment for over 24 years.An easy calculation to consider is always look at the amp draw or the wattage of each piece of equipment. (for an example) If your equipment adds up to 1600 watts. 1600 watts divided by 120v = 13.33 that is pushing their circuit breaker limit. you should only use 80% of what the circuit breaker is rated for. So on a 15 amp circuit breaker you should only be using 12 amps. And on a 20 amp circuit breakers you should only be using 16 amps. The NEC.. (National electrical code) requires all wet locations have a GFIC. Or have a GFIC beaker installed at the main panel box. I hope that would at least help one person.

 

[hotdogmj71]

I just cleaned my pump for the first time in over 5 years last week.
I also installed a quick connect fitting so I can easily access it in the future. What prompted this you ask? A power surge caused the pump to quit & then not come back on. I went 6 days without a return pump. Ordered a new pump, cleaned the sump for the 1st time, added the quick connect & then thought why don't I clean the pump. Voila == it now works, I have a replacement pump, a clean sump (my water is noticeably clearer), and I can get to it again if needed.

I had no problems since there was plenty of flow in the main tank. Temps dropped about 2-3 degrees F. I have a valve on my return that is open 100%. I also have a valve on both drains open to 100%. One purchase to consider is an automatic home generator.

 

[Greg P]

My pump is not on it's own circuit. But, I have 2 dedicated breakers for my tank; 1 for my sump equipment, and 1 for my lights/vortecs/battery charger.

The return is plugged into a dedicated GFCI which is plugged into a controller monitored by a high float in the overflow. Both the controller and the Tunze 3155 will yell at me if the pump shuts off.

I clean the return a few times a year and check the inlet screen bi-weekly. I almost lost an impeller years ago due to calcium buildup and it's 1/2 the cost of a new pump so keeping an eye on it is a must.

I have a duplicate spare.