Ask Nano Questions and Find Information (Nano Expert Albert Thiel)

alberthiel

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A member wants to know what the Oxydator I have in my tank looks like so below is a rendering of it :

oxydatoorrr.png


Note that no Hydrogen Peroxide ever gets into the water. It is broken up by a catalyst on the inside into water (H2O) and free Oxygen (O) that enters the water in tiny bubbles that are actually even very hard to see, that is how small they are, but they greatly improve the water quality in general.
 

lsaint88

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I am setting up a EcoPico and have some questions on what fish to get I love clowns and I have seen people put small ones in the small tank could I get like 2 small ones and when they get to big take them out and put them in my bigger tank. Or just stick with a goby and how many can I get?
 

alberthiel

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I am setting up a EcoPico and have some questions on what fish to get I love clowns and I have seen people put small ones in the small tank could I get like 2 small ones and when they get to big take them out and put them in my bigger tank. Or just stick with a goby and how many can I get?

That is a 5 gallon tank right? If so I think that Clowns would not be the right way to go as they grow fast and need a lot more space. I think it is better to go with Gobies and stick with the small ones and provide a sandy bottom (not real deep). Which Gobies did you have in mind ? There are so many choices that it would be easier if you let me know what type you were thinking of adding.

And on the Clown I would not even add 1 as you would not be able to add any other fish and would have to get it out in a month or two as it would start to get too large for a 5 gallon tank that does not really hold 5 gallons and if you have rock and sand which you do need then there is even less water in that tank. Nice little tank though and very affordable from what I remember
 

alberthiel

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I am setting up a EcoPico and have some questions on what fish to get I love clowns and I have seen people put small ones in the small tank could I get like 2 small ones and when they get to big take them out and put them in my bigger tank. Or just stick with a goby and how many can I get?

Here is a link to a page that shows a large number of Gobies and if you click on the images you will get more info on each of them

Gobies for Sale: Goby Fish Species Including Shrimp Gobies
 

lsaint88

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That is a 5 gallon tank right? If so I think that Clowns would not be the right way to go as they grow fast and need a lot more space. I think it is better to go with Gobies and stick with the small ones and provide a sandy bottom (not real deep). Which Gobies did you have in mind ? There are so many choices that it would be easier if you let me know what type you were thinking of adding.

And on the Clown I would not even add 1 as you would not be able to add any other fish and would have to get it out in a month or two as it would start to get too large for a 5 gallon tank that does not really hold 5 gallons and if you have rock and sand which you do need then there is even less water in that tank. Nice little tank though and very affordable from what I remember

True I have liking the green banded goby they can be in warmer water. I am in Colorado and the temp outside is ALWAYS changing one day its 75 the next snowing and 20 and back up to 70 the day after so I think i need a warmer fish. I like the catalina goby but it needs to be at 60-70 but the green banded goby is up to 79. I try to keep my APT around 75 but in the summer thats a little harder
 
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alberthiel

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True I have liking the green banded goby they can be in warmer water. I am in Colorado and the temp outside is ALWAYS changing one day its 75 the next snowing and 20 and back up to 70 the day after so I think i need a warmer fish. I like the catalina goby but it needs to be at 60-70 but the green banded goby is up to 79. I try to keep my APT around 75 but in the summer thats a little harder

Although it is generally recommended that the Green banded Goby be placed in a 10 G or more it should IMO be OK, and as to temperature if you use a good quality heater you should be able to keep the temp at around 78-80 degrees all the time.

The other nice thing about that fish is that it does not get very large (maybe up to 2 inches). Make sure that when you get one that it has that red band across its eyes as there is another one that is real close looking but does not have that red band. It needs places to hide and I would put a little sand on the bottom maybe between 1/2 and 3/4 inch maximum although around 1/2 inch should be ok. Set the rocks up in such a way that it can find a sort of little cave to retreat to when it wants to.

Good luck and keep me posted will you.
 

lsaint88

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Although it is generally recommended that the Green banded Goby be placed in a 10 G or more it should IMO be OK, and as to temperature if you use a good quality heater you should be able to keep the temp at around 78-80 degrees all the time.

The other nice thing about that fish is that it does not get very large (maybe up to 2 inches). Make sure that when you get one that it has that red band across its eyes as there is another one that is real close looking but does not have that red band. It needs places to hide and I would put a little sand on the bottom maybe between 1/2 and 3/4 inch maximum although around 1/2 inch should be ok. Set the rocks up in such a way that it can find a sort of little cave to retreat to when it wants to.

Good luck and keep me posted will you.

Thanks for the info I really try to do my home work before I get anything. for the heater I will be getting a Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm Heater I have seen nothing but good on them. Oh one more Question with goby's do they like more of a fine sand or more rocky I have been looking at 2 sands ( http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...5494&thumbpage=1&list=4221,4220,5494&breeds=1 ) and ( http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...thumbpage=1&list=2754,2755,2756,7163&breeds=1 ) there is a bout a $10 price diff. I would like to save as much as I can but if he is not going to like the bigger stuff i wont get it. I dont mind paying the diff
 
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alberthiel

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Thanks for the info I really try to do my home work before I get anything. for the heater I will be getting a Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm Heater I have seen nothing but good on them. Oh one more Question with goby's do they like more of a fine sand or more rocky I have been looking at 2 sands ( http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...5494&thumbpage=1&list=4221,4220,5494&breeds=1 ) and ( http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...thumbpage=1&list=2754,2755,2756,7163&breeds=1 ) there is a bout a $10 price diff. I would like to save as much as I can but if he is not going to like the bigger stuff i wont get it. I dont mind paying the diff

You need the finer grain one ... There is a Caribsea bag I think that you can buy that has fine sand that has some bacteria in it already but do not get the very very fine one get the next size up. I think that even Petco may carry it. That Goby does not need a lot of sand so 1/2 inch or a bit more will be plenty.

They also sell an Ocean Direct but you do not want the superfine one, you want a size just above that.
 

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So Where does my Bicolor Blenny Hang Out ? Check below, that is his favorite spot .... the Fish Motel !

blennycoralline.png
 

alberthiel

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A Member wants to know : Can I build an Oxydator myself and will I give instructions in my new Book:

Here is my answer : Because of all the number of parts that are needed, parts have to fit exactly together as shown in the rendering shown in an earlier post, and also the difficulty in finding a catalyst that will give high efficiency results, it is really not possible to build a unit yourself that I would consider "safe" for use in a Nano-Reef, or any aquarium for that matter, as the Oxydator can be used in any kind of tank, SW or FW, Reef or not.

Not only do you need a highly efficient catalyst but the unit has to fit together in such a way that no Hydrogen peroxide can escape from the container that holds it.

Believe me I have tried quite a few times, and have used various types of catalysts and different types of containers and assemblies but have not come close to the output of the actual Oxydator and because I could not get the parts to fit together tightly enough and in the manner that the real one does,

Also I had to keep the unit outside of the tank to prevent any possibility of H2O2 getting into the tank.

So to answer the question: No you will not be able to make a unit that is as safe and as effective as the original. Someone posted a DIY set of instructions on the Net and I tried those as well with results that were to be honest "deplorable" and did not even give me the results that the DIY poster suggests would come about. Plus I am certainly not going to use Lead in my tank (as that is the catalyst the DIY plans suggest should be used).

The rendering is in Post #101
 
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alberthiel

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Poor Man's Spectrometer: Estimating Lamp Spectral Quality for Less Than $30


© By Dana Riddle

Quantification of lamp output quality is, at best, an expensive proposition. However, qualification of spectra is so inexpensive that even the budget-conscious hobbyist can afford a ‘spectrometer’. There are several ‘instruments’ available for just a few dollars from various suppliers.

Link : Feature Article: Poor Man's Spectrometer: Estimating Lamp Spectral Quality for Less Than $30 — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
 

alberthiel

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Basic Information on Acropora Coral

Description:
Acropora sp. are small polyp stony corals with very thin flesh covering their calcium based skeleton. These corals come in a variety of colors and growth formations depending on species. Though there is a huge variety to choose from, generally the requirements are fairly similar.

Lighting Requirements:
Acroporas require very intense lighting, many aquarist choose to use Metal Halide lamps or T5 flourescents to achieve the light levels necessary for this coral. The lighting requirements of this coral is often much higher than the beginning hobby can support with the lighting usually supplied with aquariums. The cost of upgrading lighting equipment and pristine water quality demands of this genus often deters begining hobbyist. These species are not particularly difficult to keep once the necessary criteria are met though.

Flow Requirements:
Acropora corals require very high flow to achieve high growth rates and ideal coloration. The flow should be as high as possible so long as the flesh itself does not appear to be irritated by the flow. If the flow is too high than the flesh may be locally torn or killed. If this occurs flow should be reduced. A healthy specimen will be able to recover this from this minor abrasion. The high flow requirements of this genus can make it difficult to place near other low-flow demanding corals so it is recommended to place acropora corals together and low flow corals further away in a spot with the appropriate amount of flow.

Growth:
Acropora sp. will grow upwards with individual polyps pointing upwards towards the light source. The "base" of the coral, or point where the coral is attached to the rock work or plug, will often encrust outward increasing the coral's stability. Frequently new branches will grow out of the encrusted base or branch off existing branches in a tree light structure depending on species.

when individual branches of acropora corals break they may encrust to the rock and grow new branches if they happen to fall somewhere they can remain undisturbed. Propagation can be done by clipping or breaking off branches and attaching them to plugs, small rocks, or the main rockwork with super glue, marine epoxy, or anything non-toxic which can hold the coral in place long enough for it to encrust on it's own.

NOTE: There is of course a lot more to be known before you start keeping Acropora type coral but the above is the basic minimum you should IMO be aware of.

QUESTIONS ? Just post them here.


For optimum growth Acropora sp. require high flow, intense light, and pristine water quality. Once these criteria are met they are usually fairly easy to keep. They should be placed with enough distance to prevent them from growing into each other as they mature. If these corals come into contact with other corals they will often sting each other causing localized tissue necrosis.


 

alberthiel

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A gorgeous Wellso/Trachy Rainbow Coral


wellsophyllia_coralrainbow.jpg



This image is shown on many sites so it is hard to determine who really owns the copyright to it.
 

alberthiel

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Nemenzophyllia another great coral for the Nano Reef : not as often seen anymore as it used to be IME

nemenzophyllia.jpg
 

skinz78

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I have a chemistry question for you.

I have a 28g JBJ and I am wondering how much Kalk I can safely dose daily? I tend to forget to top off but once a week and I want to start adding Kalk when I do.
 

alberthiel

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I have a chemistry question for you.
I have a 28g JBJ and I am wondering how much Kalk I can safely dose daily? I tend to forget to top off but once a week and I want to start adding Kalk when I do.
There is no way to define how much you need to add that applies as a certain amount based on tank size but the way to go about it is as follows:
First figure out how much evaporation you have in 1 day
Then drip regular strength KW in the tank at a rate that replaces the water that has evaporated.
Test your water to determine what the Calcium level is when you drip that amount into the tank, after you have replaced all the evaporated water
If the Calcium level becomes too high, you will need to drip less of it, or you need to dilute its strength (best)
If the calcium level is not high enough when you drip that amount then you need to increase its strength (best)
So it may take a few days before you know the right strength you need to use based on what your testing for Calcium levels are. If you drip full strength and you do not test after you have replaced all evaporated water your calcium level may go too high.

So how do you weaken its strength ? Use less calcium hydroxide when you prepare it.
And how do you increase its strength? Before you add RO/DI water to the powder, add some white vinegar to the powder so it becomes like a paste and then add the water to finish the KW solution you are going to use.

To give you more info on how to prepare it either as a weaker or stronger solution I need to know how much KW you are going to prepare: e.g. 1 gallon, 2, or more, or less?

Let me know that and I will give you the suggested manner for both possibilities.
 

alberthiel

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There exist many types of Sinularia corals and some are not as commonly available as others but are pretty appealing :

Below is a picture if S. polydactyla

Sinularia polydactyla.jpg
 

Rock solid aquascape: Does the weight of the rocks in your aquascape matter?

  • The weight of the rocks is a key factor.

    Votes: 10 8.7%
  • The weight of the rocks is one of many factors.

    Votes: 42 36.5%
  • The weight of the rocks is a minor factor.

    Votes: 35 30.4%
  • The weight of the rocks is not a factor.

    Votes: 27 23.5%
  • Other.

    Votes: 1 0.9%
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