At a loss for what to do

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Currierfarms14

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Okay. To start I am shutting off my protein skimmer. I am going to double my neo nitro dosing. I am going to increase feeding as well (1-2 times a day). My lights will only be on for 6 hours, and they will be run for blue only. I will siphon in the next week one time to get as much manually as I can out. If I can get my hands on some phyto I will do that As well.
Will seeing the growth of other algae be a good sign that this is working? If not, besides seeing it go away , are there any other signs let me know!
 
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Dburr1014

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Need to also get nitrates above 10 while going thru this.
After you get out what you can, go blackout, no lights 3 days and run the skimmer. Change socks everyday, they will be full of dinos also.
 

ChuckTownReefer

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Ok so I went on a trip for 3 day and the person that was taking care of my tank wasn't feeding enough. On top of that my algae scrubber was running 24/7. So when I got back. I had zero nitrates and zero phosphates. Then dinos erupted. I got all dinos gone in about 2 weeks. If you follow these instructions should work for you also..

First I hooked up an over kill UV sterilizer preferably were its pulling water from the display not the sump. ( only run the UV when lights are out when the dinos go into the water column.)

Start dosing heavy nitrates and phosphates. Yes dose phosphates not just nitrates. Also when you dose nitrates it will lower your phosphates.

Testing I test right before lights out. And dosed nitrates and phosphates as needed. After I tested I dosed nitrates and phosphates

*** this is what really help in my opinion
Get
Dr.Tim's waste away
Dr.Tim's Eco balance
Dr.Tim's one and only
DOSE AS RECOMMENDED

*** when you dose the Dr.Tim's bacteria turn off your protein skimmer for 2-3 hours. Otherwise the skimmer will just skimmer out the bacteria.

*** Dose your nitrates and phosphates at the same time you dose the Dr.Tim's bacteria so they have something to feed on. Otherwise the bacteria will die because your tank has no nutrients in it.
**Dose this right before the lights come on and the UV sterilizer AND OFF.

Another thing you can do is if you're skimmer has a drain on the collection cup open it so any Skimmate can drain back into your system to help build up nutrients in your water. Thats one of the things I did.

Please pm me and I can give you my number and talk you thru this process.
 

Supa

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I see lots of good advice above…. I’m new reefer with a 7 month old tank I was dealing with diatoms cyano and the dreaded dino(I didn’t go buy a microscope although I should have one on hand) what helped me beat Dino’s I increased my feedings(I fed frozen food cubes, but when I upped my feeding I swapped to frozen rods food brand.) i siphoned out as much dino as I could daily, and about 4 days later Dino’s were decreasing from the rocks…. Few more days later no Dino’s nowhere on the rocks but left behind a jelly residue without the air bubbles…. Durring this time it appeared my water started to get a little milky haze to it(I suspected bacteria blooms from over feeding) this haze didn’t go away on its own after a few days, it would clear up a lot but never go away… I installed a cheaper UV filter(proper watt for my system) then 2 days later the water was very noticeable clear… crystal clear days later….. the jelly residue on my rocks went away on its own…. Increased feeding caused minor GHA breakout only on my frag racks and power heads my urchin and crabs keep that at bay. I currently still have some dino issues as this is all real recent but me watching my phosphates and nitrates and trying to keep the water a little “dirtier” is helping me. My readings via hannna checker when I noticed Dino’s decrease was 0.07 phosphate and 5-10 nitrate….. I’m new to this but just wanted to share my experience……
 

ChuckTownReefer

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I see lots of good advice above…. I’m new reefer with a 7 month old tank I was dealing with diatoms cyano and the dreaded dino(I didn’t go buy a microscope although I should have one on hand) what helped me beat Dino’s I increased my feedings(I fed frozen food cubes, but when I upped my feeding I swapped to frozen rods food brand.) i siphoned out as much dino as I could daily, and about 4 days later Dino’s were decreasing from the rocks…. Few more days later no Dino’s nowhere on the rocks but left behind a jelly residue without the air bubbles…. Durring this time it appeared my water started to get a little milky haze to it(I suspected bacteria blooms from over feeding) this haze didn’t go away on its own after a few days, it would clear up a lot but never go away… I installed a cheaper UV filter(proper watt for my system) then 2 days later the water was very noticeable clear… crystal clear days later….. the jelly residue on my rocks went away on its own…. Increased feeding caused minor GHA breakout only on my frag racks and power heads my urchin and crabs keep that at bay. I currently still have some dino issues as this is all real recent but me watching my phosphates and nitrates and trying to keep the water a little “dirtier” is helping me. My readings via hannna checker when I noticed Dino’s decrease was 0.07 phosphate and 5-10 nitrate….. I’m new to this but just wanted to share my experience……

Amazon has a decent microscope for like $13. Here is a picture of my dino using that $13 microscope.
 

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ChuckTownReefer

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I see lots of good advice above…. I’m new reefer with a 7 month old tank I was dealing with diatoms cyano and the dreaded dino(I didn’t go buy a microscope although I should have one on hand) what helped me beat Dino’s I increased my feedings(I fed frozen food cubes, but when I upped my feeding I swapped to frozen rods food brand.) i siphoned out as much dino as I could daily, and about 4 days later Dino’s were decreasing from the rocks…. Few more days later no Dino’s nowhere on the rocks but left behind a jelly residue without the air bubbles…. Durring this time it appeared my water started to get a little milky haze to it(I suspected bacteria blooms from over feeding) this haze didn’t go away on its own after a few days, it would clear up a lot but never go away… I installed a cheaper UV filter(proper watt for my system) then 2 days later the water was very noticeable clear… crystal clear days later….. the jelly residue on my rocks went away on its own…. Increased feeding caused minor GHA breakout only on my frag racks and power heads my urchin and crabs keep that at bay. I currently still have some dino issues as this is all real recent but me watching my phosphates and nitrates and trying to keep the water a little “dirtier” is helping me. My readings via hannna checker when I noticed Dino’s decrease was 0.07 phosphate and 5-10 nitrate….. I’m new to this but just wanted to share my experience……

Carson MicroFlip 100x-250x LED and UV Lighted Pocket Microscope with Flip Down Slide Base and Smartphone Digiscoping Clip Bundle Included with 24 Prepared Insect and Animal Slides (MP-250BUN)
 
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Currierfarms14

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I honestly don’t think I have filter socks, just sponges in my canister filter. I was hoping to Not have to kill the lights for three days as I have a newer anemone and SPS corals that I don’t want to lose. I will look into UV sterilizer but have no experience with them.
 

Dburr1014

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I honestly don’t think I have filter socks, just sponges in my canister filter. I was hoping to Not have to kill the lights for three days as I have a newer anemone and SPS corals that I don’t want to lose. I will look into UV sterilizer but have no experience with them.
They will be fine for 3 days but you can just use blue if your worried.
The cannister will /should be clean nightly.
 
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Currierfarms14

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Update: I have successfully raised my nitrates and phosphates. Nitrates are 5-10 currently. Still seeing Dino’s. Today marks the three day mark of the only blue light. Did one water change and have been changing my filters. I did add carbon today as my corals looked super ticked and wanted to make sure there wasn’t something funky in the water was causing it. I have been over feeding as well to help with nitrates and phosphates.

only downfall is my corals are all SUPER ticked. Really hoping this continual rising of nitrates and phosphates will help me win this battle in the near future so my corals don’t continually die. Any advice is appreciated
 

Supa

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Update: I have successfully raised my nitrates and phosphates. Nitrates are 5-10 currently. Still seeing Dino’s. Today marks the three day mark of the only blue light. Did one water change and have been changing my filters. I did add carbon today as my corals looked super ticked and wanted to make sure there wasn’t something funky in the water was causing it. I have been over feeding as well to help with nitrates and phosphates.

only downfall is my corals are all SUPER ticked. Really hoping this continual rising of nitrates and phosphates will help me win this battle in the near future so my corals don’t continually die. Any advice is appreciated
We’re you able to look up some UV filters…. I’ve noticed better water quality after installing one.
 
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Currierfarms14

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I have not. I have no experience with one, and was trying to do it as simple as possible. I’m still considering one in the future. The corals actually seem to be a little bit happier after the carbon was added. The lights are still on all blue, but will re introduce white light tomororw (very low setting)

I’ve also ordered a Hannah phosphate reader (ultra low), and am expecting that Monday. Will check nitrate and phosphate again at that time.
 

vetteguy53081

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This is clear dino.
The method shown below will battle both. Dino and Cyano are both photosynthetic, so removing light removes a major food source.
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependent corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly
 
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Currierfarms14

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Same photo. As you can see most are gone from the current methods I’ve been using. I try to do as holistic as a method as possible, and I’m very pleased with the results. I’m going to continue until need week and slowly
Rams whites up unless I see digressionz
 

Supa

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Same photo. As you can see most are gone from the current methods I’ve been using. I try to do as holistic as a method as possible, and I’m very pleased with the results. I’m going to continue until need week and slowly
Rams whites up unless I see digressionz
Nice work!
 
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