ATI LED Hybrid Powermodule Running Hot!

Discussion in 'ATI Aquaristik' started by -Logzor, Dec 26, 2017.

  1. -Logzor

    -Logzor Valuable Member

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    I've been running the ATI LED Hybrid Powermodule for a couple of years now over my 150g SPS reef. I've noticed that the body of the fixture is always extremely hot, even in the winter time in the basement the exterior of the fixture is 43C and I've measured the end caps inside the fixture at 45C using an infrared temperature gun. In warmer weather I'm sure the temperatures exceed these values considerably.

    I've read online from numerous sources that T5 bulbs should run no hotter than 35C. If my bulbs are running at 45C then what is happening to lifespan of the bulbs and health of my corals?

    The image below shows the outside of the fixture registering 111 F which is around 43C. Didn't get a picture of the endcaps because the light from the fixture was blowing out of the image.

    The LEDs in the fixture rarely have the fans running and don't seem to be exceeding the temperature thresholds, I guess because they are in the middle of the fixture and away from the bulbs? Note that I run the royal blue LEDs only and only at 35% maximum so there is very little power being driven to the LEDs.

    I'm concerned that the heat of the fixture is causing impact to my bulbs, light spectrum and corals.

    ATI, is this an issue and what can I do about it? I don't understand why the fixture if getting so hot.

    [​IMG]
     
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  2. crabs_mcjones

    crabs_mcjones I'm shi-nay! R2R Supporter Reef Squad Leader R2R Excellence Award Reef Tank 365 Build Thread Contributor

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    If the fixture has fans, have you cleaned them out lately? If dust has collected the air won't flow as smoothly and can run hotter. Hope this helps :)
     
  3. -Logzor

    -Logzor Valuable Member

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    Just to confirm, the LED readouts on the power brick ranges from 45-46C which confirms that the T5's are probably operating at a similar temperature. At what temperature are the programmed to turn on?
     
  4. Usctom

    Usctom Well-Known Member

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    I just replaced my led fans. It is much cooler now. It was getting so hot that the leds were shutting off.
     
  5. -Logzor

    -Logzor Valuable Member

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    What temp do your LED fans kick on? Did the fans totally stop working?
     
  6. -Logzor

    -Logzor Valuable Member

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    My LED fans are triggering at 46C but my T5 fans run constantly by default. Fans are clean, work fine, fixture is still super hot.
     
  7. ATI North America

    ATI North America Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    I'd recommend giving this a try:


    There is a very good chance your fans are not coming ON/OFF at the right temp nor running at the right voltage if these settings are off.
     
  8. -Logzor

    -Logzor Valuable Member

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    Yes, I made this fix at least a year ago when I updated the software. Even re-set it again just to be sure. The fixture still running 10C over recommend T5 bulb temperatures (bulbs are running at 45C).

    Between the issues with my acrylic shield on the fixture (shield is not the right size and take 4-5 tries just to slide it into place, shield came scratched, contacted customer service about this, got excuses) and now temperatures, I'm disappointed with ATI Hybrid PM.

    ATI what are my options other than just selling this to someone and buying something different?
     
  9. ATI North America

    ATI North America Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Hello Logzor,
    I think you are missing an important aspect here regarding temperature. The ideal temperature for bulbs is the ambient temperature of the air around it, not the bulb (or fixture) itself. While the fixture itself my be warmer than this temperature the only part you really need to concern yourself with is the ambient air temperature as it first hits the cathode on the bulb. If you wish to test this with your temp shooter, crack open the acrylic 1-2" and shoot the temperature of the aluminum around the hole where the air comes from the top chamber into the bulb chamber right above the bulb on the cord end. There is roughly a 1/2" hole where this air enters the bulb area.

    This is the spot that counts, the housing temperature really doesn't matter. I am not saying it isn't still too hot, I am just saying testing the housing doesn't give you information that does you any good. You have me curious what temperature my fixture runs, once it is fully up to temp I will check it.

    Regarding the shield issues, I have had great success with a touch of silicone lube spray like WD-40's Silicone product. Spray a touch in the slot and run your acrylic in and out, mine will literally slide 12" with a slight push now, and the silicone won't dry out (or so I am told) so it will remain easier to move for the next bulb change.

    While it may feel like excuses, the scratches on the lens are normal and unavoidable because the acrylic is removed and replaced for the fixture to be tested prior to shipping out of California. Every fixture is tested here before being boxed. With the fixture on its back the acrylic rests on the reflectors and does get scratched when you slide it. It is unrealistic to move the acrylic in and out of the fixture without lines showing up from the reflectors.
     
  10. -Logzor

    -Logzor Valuable Member

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    Thank you for the comprehensive response, it's greatly appreciated. I happened to be home for lunch, decided to test the temperatures in the area you describe that is located on the cord end of the fixture. I slid the acrylic back about 2" and I was able to see the air holes above each bulb. Using my temperature gun I measured a range of 42-48C on/around the aluminum near the air hole. The air hole area near the back of the fixture measured 60C but most were in the 40's. The endcap of the bulb itself measured around 50C. I may be wrong but it seems like the fixture is just cooking.

    As for the acrylic shield, I did contact ATI customer service about this awhile ago and I did take this recommendation to add the silicone grease, which helped some, but the issue is that the width of the shield is such that when sliding it into place, it can partially slip out, it's not quite wide enough (just a fraction off). The silicone helped but it sometimes takes me 8-10 tries just to get it to fit right, when it slips out of one of the tracks out if often jams and requires a lot of force to remove and re-try. Not a fun process.

    To solve the issue with the acrylic rubbing you could put some parchment paper or something in between the acrylic and the reflector, might help? But I understand what you're saying.
     
  11. ATI North America

    ATI North America Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Could you provide some additional photos of how the fixture is installed? IE a FTS with fixture included?
     
  12. ATI North America

    ATI North America Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Could you provide some additional photos of how the fixture is installed? IE a FTS with fixture included?
     
  13. -Logzor

    -Logzor Valuable Member

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    Yes, see below, sorry lights have already turned and glass is dirty, I can repost if you want to see with lights on.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. -Logzor

    -Logzor Valuable Member

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    Hi ATI, Just checking what your thoughts are on this? My personal feeling is the temperature is affecting the light spectrum and is impacting my corals negatively.
     
  15. ATI North America

    ATI North America Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Sorry Logzor I totally missed your update!

    I did some checking on my Powermodule (8x54w WiFi version). My fixture runs at 40-45 degrees on most of the exterior, but the LED cover (in my case the silver part) is at the mid 30's. This means the LEDs are staying nice and cool while for obvious reasons the T5s are warmer. I fully expect this is normal for the Powermodule. As I mentioned before the exterior temperature does not matter.

    You mentioned the end of yours was 60, mine was not that hot, but it was 48. The critical portions of the light to keep cool are the T5 ballasts, the Cathode on the T5 (the label end) and the LED cluster. I suspect those are all sitting just fine in your case, but perhaps you have more info?
     
  16. -Logzor

    -Logzor Valuable Member

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    It sounds like you're measuring similar temperatures as me. You're saying these ranges are optimal for T5 bulbs?
     
  17. ATI North America

    ATI North America Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    The temperature on the outside doesn't matter. If the air around the cathode is at 38 c or so, that is the critical portion of the cooling which is optimal (to use your words).
     
  18. -Logzor

    -Logzor Valuable Member

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    I'm seeing 50c on the cathode. Everywhere I've measured around the bulb, the air vents, etc. is much higher than 38C. As I stated in my previous post, some areas even measured 60c in the air vent area that you suggested I measure. There is virtually no part of the fixture that I can find that measures at or under 38C.
     
  19. ATI North America

    ATI North America Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    It is not on the cathode that needs measured, it is the ambient air around it. This maybe close to the temperature of the aluminum, but the heat is also being transferred from other parts of the fixture to this area making the aluminum hotter than the air.

    My recommendation:
    • Triple check your hidden fan settings.
    • Send your fixture in for inspection at our distributor to determine if there is something defective or not.
    My belief is that your fixture is just fine and doing what it is intending to do.
     
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