Atomic's 800g In-Wall with fish room.
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- Thread starter atomic081
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vikinglord13
Active Member
Just came across this thread thanks to the R2R youtube video.
This is incredible. I appreciate your coral mapping idea, I can see how remembering all the names on larger tanks can be difficult.
This is incredible. I appreciate your coral mapping idea, I can see how remembering all the names on larger tanks can be difficult.
Cabinetman
Well-Known Member
Looks absolutely amazing!
Great googly moogly.
And the journey seems to have been so low drama.
What are current parameter trends?
Light and flow seemed modest but everything’s thriving.
What’s fish (and invert?) quarantine procedure?
drool..
And the journey seems to have been so low drama.
What are current parameter trends?
Light and flow seemed modest but everything’s thriving.
What’s fish (and invert?) quarantine procedure?
drool..
OP
OP
atomic081
Active Member
I still see the tank in its baby stage. Give it another 2 years and i hope to have it stunning.
Thank you so much. Im very blessed
I can reach the side windows from the top. I just use a razorblade. Although i dont clean them as much as i should.
Unfortunately i didnt follow through with the mapping of the corals. I wish i would have, its getting hard to remember the names.
TY!
I think ive gotten lucky on the drama. I have friends who are consistently battling briopsis, cyno, dyno, and other things. I have not had much of that. I do have a few stray apstasisa and some bubble algae in the overflows/refugium.
Parameters seem steady, i need to test today. I turned off the calcium reactor a few weeks back because I was gone for 2 weeks on vacation. I wanna get it setup on the dosing pump/ apex/ trident
Im definitively not lacking in lighting. 5 400w halides do a great job on par now, plus 4 of the xho reefbrights. Flow is probably on the low side but ive never seen a problem. The tunzes i have are beasts!!! Im not sure if i ever posted on here that I added a Maxpect gyre on the back wall in the center. That was my biggest dead spot.
Ive not gotten many fish recently so my QT isnt setup right now. I have a 40 breeder that i try to QT fish for 4 weeks before adding. Ill sometimes add them to my breeding system before i add them to my big tank to observe for a few additional weeks.
Last edited:
OP
OP
atomic081
Active Member
In my past experience, Ive seen that around about 2 years of having my tanks. I really start a monthly trimming. So I set up the frag tank to sell those trimmings. I also am going to start going to frag swaps with a few buddys. I dont plan on making a killing. I just enjoy the people and Ill spend the money i make on new corals!!
Devaji
5000 Club Member
@atomic081 "My biggest concern with a 144 inch tank would be finding plywood that long. I have a 120x48 footprint cause thats the biggest piece of plywood i could find. I would have gone bigger if it was possible. I didnt wanna risk having a seam."
I did not know one could even get 120" plywood this is a game changer for me.
I have an old unfinished basement that I am planning to do a media room and large fish only system down there.
I keep going back in forth between a plywood frame tank or glass. if I go ply. I could go bigger love this 10' tank.
some question that I might have missed:
are you still using the 2x tunze + 1 gyre on the back wall for flow?
would you have considered a closed loop?
I am not sure why you used the fiber glass + epoxy + pond shield? dont you think the pond shield would have done the trick alone?
about how much % or gal. do you do per month WC? I am trying to go big with out going broke..lol trying to come up with a budget.
did you go with 3/4" glass for the front panel?
can you tell us more about the spaces you used when installing the glass I have heard about that method.
what silicone did you use?
do you wish you made tank access from the family room?
would you consider a large build like this with no fish room behind the tank ( I could do a small closet to one side tho.)
if you where do do it again what ,if anything, would you change?
sorry for all the questions but I am really thinking about a plywood tank and this is the perfect size for me!
I did not know one could even get 120" plywood this is a game changer for me.
I have an old unfinished basement that I am planning to do a media room and large fish only system down there.
I keep going back in forth between a plywood frame tank or glass. if I go ply. I could go bigger love this 10' tank.
some question that I might have missed:
are you still using the 2x tunze + 1 gyre on the back wall for flow?
would you have considered a closed loop?
I am not sure why you used the fiber glass + epoxy + pond shield? dont you think the pond shield would have done the trick alone?
about how much % or gal. do you do per month WC? I am trying to go big with out going broke..lol trying to come up with a budget.
did you go with 3/4" glass for the front panel?
can you tell us more about the spaces you used when installing the glass I have heard about that method.
what silicone did you use?
do you wish you made tank access from the family room?
would you consider a large build like this with no fish room behind the tank ( I could do a small closet to one side tho.)
if you where do do it again what ,if anything, would you change?
sorry for all the questions but I am really thinking about a plywood tank and this is the perfect size for me!
OP
OP
atomic081
Active Member
Happy to answer all your questions!!
@atomic081 "My biggest concern with a 144 inch tank would be finding plywood that long. I have a 120x48 footprint cause thats the biggest piece of plywood i could find. I would have gone bigger if it was possible. I didnt wanna risk having a seam."
I did not know one could even get 120" plywood this is a game changer for me.
I have an old unfinished basement that I am planning to do a media room and large fish only system down there.
I had to special order the 10' plywood from Menards
I keep going back in forth between a plywood frame tank or glass. if I go ply. I could go bigger love this 10' tank.
I went plywood cause it was in wall. If my wife would have allowed it it, I would have designed the tank/house for a Peninsula and done full glass. I also wanted the challenge of plywood and it was cheaper. Alot of people are concerned about longevity, but i actually think my overbuilt tank will last longer than a glass tank or acrylic.
some question that I might have missed:
are you still using the 2x tunze + 1 gyre on the back wall for flow?
Yes, I do have 4 returns from the main pump that are giving a decent amount of flow. I might add 2 more Gyre someday but for now its working.
would you have considered a closed loop?
Yes! i did consider it, but choose the Tunze because of the wide flow and i can always add more. It would be hard to add more flow in a closed loop.
I am not sure why you used the fiber glass + epoxy + pond shield? dont you think the pond shield would have done the trick alone?
Fiberglass (with mesh) was for a structural support on the corners mainly, similar to a hot tub. It was not for waterproofing.
Epoxy was for waterproofing exclusively, but i got a sweet deal on 10 gals ($80) of it but it was white. I couldn't do a white background and was told I couldn't add colored paint to it without compromising the waterproofing .
Pond armor was mainly for the black color and it did add waterproofing.
about how much % or gal. do you do per month WC? I am trying to go big with out going broke..lol trying to come up with a budget.
I do not do a lot of WCs. I am a once every 3-6 month guy and I try to do 150g. I only have 3 55g drums to mix water in or I might do more.
did you go with 3/4" glass for the front panel?
can you tell us more about the spaces you used when installing the glass I have heard about that method.
Yes i used 3/4 glass. there is another forum called something like "monster fish keepers". Its primary a freshwater forum, but they do alot of plywood tanks. I used multiple calculators and tables to figure out what size, then I went up one size and then I got it tempered. Tempered was a risk. its 3x as strong, but if it does break, it SHATTERS like a shotgun. Im confident now that its installed that it will last forever, that install was scary though. tempered glass is very breakable on the ends.
what silicone did you use?
RTV108-300ML RTV 108 Silicone
do you wish you made tank access from the family room?
No, the Flipper max is a beast for cleaning the glass. Its been 1.5 years and ive never replaced the blade. I clean the glass once a week and usually it needs it by the time I clean. Mounting corals is a pain ill admit, but thats 3 or 4 times a year that i get wet.
My wife also didnt want noise or light coming through doors in our family room. So it wasnt a option.
would you consider a large build like this with no fish room behind the tank ( I could do a small closet to one side tho.)
No, I feel this tank needs this type of room behind it. Every bit of space is taken up and i dont have everything I want.
if you where do do it again what ,if anything, would you change?
I Probibly would have gone with LEDs. I love my MH, but I ended up needing to use 400w (not the 250) and had to add the LED actinic (they were the most expensive purchase on the tank so far). If I had taken those into account, the LEDs would have been a easy choice. Im still hoping my growth will really start to take off and make the halides worth the investment I have in them.
Also i would have gotten the controller at the beginning. Only for the tridents ability to test daily. I did put a few other things like the lights on it now, but really its the testing ability that keeps me loving it.
sorry for all the questions but I am really thinking about a plywood tank and this is the perfect size for me!
@atomic081 "My biggest concern with a 144 inch tank would be finding plywood that long. I have a 120x48 footprint cause thats the biggest piece of plywood i could find. I would have gone bigger if it was possible. I didnt wanna risk having a seam."
I did not know one could even get 120" plywood this is a game changer for me.
I have an old unfinished basement that I am planning to do a media room and large fish only system down there.
I had to special order the 10' plywood from Menards
I keep going back in forth between a plywood frame tank or glass. if I go ply. I could go bigger love this 10' tank.
I went plywood cause it was in wall. If my wife would have allowed it it, I would have designed the tank/house for a Peninsula and done full glass. I also wanted the challenge of plywood and it was cheaper. Alot of people are concerned about longevity, but i actually think my overbuilt tank will last longer than a glass tank or acrylic.
some question that I might have missed:
are you still using the 2x tunze + 1 gyre on the back wall for flow?
Yes, I do have 4 returns from the main pump that are giving a decent amount of flow. I might add 2 more Gyre someday but for now its working.
would you have considered a closed loop?
Yes! i did consider it, but choose the Tunze because of the wide flow and i can always add more. It would be hard to add more flow in a closed loop.
I am not sure why you used the fiber glass + epoxy + pond shield? dont you think the pond shield would have done the trick alone?
Fiberglass (with mesh) was for a structural support on the corners mainly, similar to a hot tub. It was not for waterproofing.
Epoxy was for waterproofing exclusively, but i got a sweet deal on 10 gals ($80) of it but it was white. I couldn't do a white background and was told I couldn't add colored paint to it without compromising the waterproofing .
Pond armor was mainly for the black color and it did add waterproofing.
about how much % or gal. do you do per month WC? I am trying to go big with out going broke..lol trying to come up with a budget.
I do not do a lot of WCs. I am a once every 3-6 month guy and I try to do 150g. I only have 3 55g drums to mix water in or I might do more.
did you go with 3/4" glass for the front panel?
can you tell us more about the spaces you used when installing the glass I have heard about that method.
Yes i used 3/4 glass. there is another forum called something like "monster fish keepers". Its primary a freshwater forum, but they do alot of plywood tanks. I used multiple calculators and tables to figure out what size, then I went up one size and then I got it tempered. Tempered was a risk. its 3x as strong, but if it does break, it SHATTERS like a shotgun. Im confident now that its installed that it will last forever, that install was scary though. tempered glass is very breakable on the ends.
what silicone did you use?
RTV108-300ML RTV 108 Silicone
do you wish you made tank access from the family room?
No, the Flipper max is a beast for cleaning the glass. Its been 1.5 years and ive never replaced the blade. I clean the glass once a week and usually it needs it by the time I clean. Mounting corals is a pain ill admit, but thats 3 or 4 times a year that i get wet.
My wife also didnt want noise or light coming through doors in our family room. So it wasnt a option.
would you consider a large build like this with no fish room behind the tank ( I could do a small closet to one side tho.)
No, I feel this tank needs this type of room behind it. Every bit of space is taken up and i dont have everything I want.
if you where do do it again what ,if anything, would you change?
I Probibly would have gone with LEDs. I love my MH, but I ended up needing to use 400w (not the 250) and had to add the LED actinic (they were the most expensive purchase on the tank so far). If I had taken those into account, the LEDs would have been a easy choice. Im still hoping my growth will really start to take off and make the halides worth the investment I have in them.
Also i would have gotten the controller at the beginning. Only for the tridents ability to test daily. I did put a few other things like the lights on it now, but really its the testing ability that keeps me loving it.
sorry for all the questions but I am really thinking about a plywood tank and this is the perfect size for me!
Devaji
5000 Club Member
Happy to answer all your questions!!
@atomic081 "My biggest concern with a 144 inch tank would be finding plywood that long. I have a 120x48 footprint cause thats the biggest piece of plywood i could find. I would have gone bigger if it was possible. I didnt wanna risk having a seam."
I did not know one could even get 120" plywood this is a game changer for me.
I have an old unfinished basement that I am planning to do a media room and large fish only system down there.
I had to special order the 10' plywood from Menards
I keep going back in forth between a plywood frame tank or glass. if I go ply. I could go bigger love this 10' tank.
I went plywood cause it was in wall. If my wife would have allowed it it, I would have designed the tank/house for a Peninsula and done full glass. I also wanted the challenge of plywood and it was cheaper. Alot of people are concerned about longevity, but i actually think my overbuilt tank will last longer than a glass tank or acrylic.
some question that I might have missed:
are you still using the 2x tunze + 1 gyre on the back wall for flow?
Yes, I do have 4 returns from the main pump that are giving a decent amount of flow. I might add 2 more Gyre someday but for now its working.
would you have considered a closed loop?
Yes! i did consider it, but choose the Tunze because of the wide flow and i can always add more. It would be hard to add more flow in a closed loop.
I am not sure why you used the fiber glass + epoxy + pond shield? dont you think the pond shield would have done the trick alone?
Fiberglass (with mesh) was for a structural support on the corners mainly, similar to a hot tub. It was not for waterproofing.
Epoxy was for waterproofing exclusively, but i got a sweet deal on 10 gals ($80) of it but it was white. I couldn't do a white background and was told I couldn't add colored paint to it without compromising the waterproofing .
Pond armor was mainly for the black color and it did add waterproofing.
about how much % or gal. do you do per month WC? I am trying to go big with out going broke..lol trying to come up with a budget.
I do not do a lot of WCs. I am a once every 3-6 month guy and I try to do 150g. I only have 3 55g drums to mix water in or I might do more.
did you go with 3/4" glass for the front panel?
can you tell us more about the spaces you used when installing the glass I have heard about that method.
Yes i used 3/4 glass. there is another forum called something like "monster fish keepers". Its primary a freshwater forum, but they do alot of plywood tanks. I used multiple calculators and tables to figure out what size, then I went up one size and then I got it tempered. Tempered was a risk. its 3x as strong, but if it does break, it SHATTERS like a shotgun. Im confident now that its installed that it will last forever, that install was scary though. tempered glass is very breakable on the ends.
what silicone did you use?
RTV108-300ML RTV 108 Silicone
do you wish you made tank access from the family room?
No, the Flipper max is a beast for cleaning the glass. Its been 1.5 years and ive never replaced the blade. I clean the glass once a week and usually it needs it by the time I clean. Mounting corals is a pain ill admit, but thats 3 or 4 times a year that i get wet.
My wife also didnt want noise or light coming through doors in our family room. So it wasnt a option.
would you consider a large build like this with no fish room behind the tank ( I could do a small closet to one side tho.)
No, I feel this tank needs this type of room behind it. Every bit of space is taken up and i dont have everything I want.
if you where do do it again what ,if anything, would you change?
I Probibly would have gone with LEDs. I love my MH, but I ended up needing to use 400w (not the 250) and had to add the LED actinic (they were the most expensive purchase on the tank so far). If I had taken those into account, the LEDs would have been a easy choice. Im still hoping my growth will really start to take off and make the halides worth the investment I have in them.
Also i would have gotten the controller at the beginning. Only for the tridents ability to test daily. I did put a few other things like the lights on it now, but really its the testing ability that keeps me loving it.
sorry for all the questions but I am really thinking about a plywood tank and this is the perfect size for me!
thank you for taking the time to answer all my questions.
yeah I am on monster fish keepers. learning everything I can about plywood tanks.
I had a feeling you would say a tank this size need a fish room behind it. I do have a fish room on the other side of the basement under my RS650P peninsula but there is no way to make another one. I might be able to pick the idea of "another" tank to the GF if its in wall she might like that IDK.
i'll have to check out those Tunze PH I ws thinking cloose loop so I would not have to have a bunch of power heads in the DT, but bening fish only I dont think i need a ton of flow like a reef would.
i'll look into seeing if I can get 10' plywood sheets here.
OP
OP
atomic081
Active Member
Update: Setbacks!! All ive been doing the last 2 months is putting out fires (figuratively speaking)
My grand idea of using my smart home switches backfired after I added a 5th Metal Halide. I didnt even think that the switch could not handle the watts. The first one lasted a month and luckily I had a spare. That one lasted 3 weeks before it pooped out.
So I decided to put all my on my Apex, and i got a 2nd Energy bar.
I had the 2nd energy bar 2 days when the original energy bar crapped out. Apex replaced under warranty, but it took 3 weeks.
Finally i got the lights working properly and My solenoid on my co2 for my Calcium reactor fails. (under warranty also!)
The calcium reactor is way too small for this system (Geo 618) but it was working.
Then I was in the LFS and I see a gently used Geo 818 and jumped on it
So while im trying to get my parameters back in check, I run out of Alk 2 part. Did anyone know its sold out EVERYWHERE. So my son and I made our own. Cross our fingers this works
It should make 3 gallons and cost me under 2 dollars. Ill never buy alk buffer again.
Lastly ive been working on a Automated way to keep my PH and Alk up. Im trying to build a kalkwasser reactor using a 55g barrel that I have a sealed lid on. Here is my idea....cross fingers!!
Im going to have the 55g barrel with 10lbs of Mrs Wages pickling lime in it and RO water
The water will be oversaturated, but will dose as needed daily to keep Alk in check.
The 55g Barrel will be hooked up to the RODI float and as soon as its dosing, the barrel will fill back up to full.
Then the apex will kick on a pump that I made to stir the new RO/OLD Kalk/Old Lime. The pump will run for 5 min and shut off until after the next dose, Leaving roughly 4 hours for everything to settle before it starts dosing again.
Combine The Kalkwasser reactor and the new Calcium reactor and I should be set for a LONG time fully automated.
Time will tell how well it works!
My grand idea of using my smart home switches backfired after I added a 5th Metal Halide. I didnt even think that the switch could not handle the watts. The first one lasted a month and luckily I had a spare. That one lasted 3 weeks before it pooped out.
So I decided to put all my on my Apex, and i got a 2nd Energy bar.
I had the 2nd energy bar 2 days when the original energy bar crapped out. Apex replaced under warranty, but it took 3 weeks.
Finally i got the lights working properly and My solenoid on my co2 for my Calcium reactor fails. (under warranty also!)
The calcium reactor is way too small for this system (Geo 618) but it was working.
Then I was in the LFS and I see a gently used Geo 818 and jumped on it
So while im trying to get my parameters back in check, I run out of Alk 2 part. Did anyone know its sold out EVERYWHERE. So my son and I made our own. Cross our fingers this works
It should make 3 gallons and cost me under 2 dollars. Ill never buy alk buffer again.
Lastly ive been working on a Automated way to keep my PH and Alk up. Im trying to build a kalkwasser reactor using a 55g barrel that I have a sealed lid on. Here is my idea....cross fingers!!
Im going to have the 55g barrel with 10lbs of Mrs Wages pickling lime in it and RO water
The water will be oversaturated, but will dose as needed daily to keep Alk in check.
The 55g Barrel will be hooked up to the RODI float and as soon as its dosing, the barrel will fill back up to full.
Then the apex will kick on a pump that I made to stir the new RO/OLD Kalk/Old Lime. The pump will run for 5 min and shut off until after the next dose, Leaving roughly 4 hours for everything to settle before it starts dosing again.
Combine The Kalkwasser reactor and the new Calcium reactor and I should be set for a LONG time fully automated.
Time will tell how well it works!
BackToTheReef
Valuable Member
I am going through this same debate except plywood vs. acrylic. Found a place with 120x48x3/4 online for 156 and change when I was poking around earlier today. Now I have to try and find that big of a sheet of acrylic one way or the other.
Good recommendation on monster fish keepers, I think I'll check them out.
Devaji
5000 Club Member
[QUOTE="
Good recommendation on monster fish keepers, I think I'll check them out.
[/QUOTE]
you should there is some crazy FW builds on there. deff, a great place to talk about plywood tanks.
@atomic081 your son in the blue shirt looks like he up to no good HAHA
I hope your new CaRx and kalk barrel work great for you.
Good recommendation on monster fish keepers, I think I'll check them out.
[/QUOTE]
you should there is some crazy FW builds on there. deff, a great place to talk about plywood tanks.
@atomic081 your son in the blue shirt looks like he up to no good HAHA
I hope your new CaRx and kalk barrel work great for you.
U
User1
Guest
Update: Setbacks!! All ive been doing the last 2 months is putting out fires (figuratively speaking)
My grand idea of using my smart home switches backfired after I added a 5th Metal Halide. I didnt even think that the switch could not handle the watts. The first one lasted a month and luckily I had a spare. That one lasted 3 weeks before it pooped out.
So I decided to put all my on my Apex, and i got a 2nd Energy bar.
I had the 2nd energy bar 2 days when the original energy bar crapped out. Apex replaced under warranty, but it took 3 weeks.
Finally i got the lights working properly and My solenoid on my co2 for my Calcium reactor fails. (under warranty also!)
The calcium reactor is way too small for this system (Geo 618) but it was working.
Then I was in the LFS and I see a gently used Geo 818 and jumped on it
So while im trying to get my parameters back in check, I run out of Alk 2 part. Did anyone know its sold out EVERYWHERE. So my son and I made our own. Cross our fingers this works
It should make 3 gallons and cost me under 2 dollars. Ill never buy alk buffer again.
Lastly ive been working on a Automated way to keep my PH and Alk up. Im trying to build a kalkwasser reactor using a 55g barrel that I have a sealed lid on. Here is my idea....cross fingers!!
Im going to have the 55g barrel with 10lbs of Mrs Wages pickling lime in it and RO water
The water will be oversaturated, but will dose as needed daily to keep Alk in check.
The 55g Barrel will be hooked up to the RODI float and as soon as its dosing, the barrel will fill back up to full.
Then the apex will kick on a pump that I made to stir the new RO/OLD Kalk/Old Lime. The pump will run for 5 min and shut off until after the next dose, Leaving roughly 4 hours for everything to settle before it starts dosing again.
Combine The Kalkwasser reactor and the new Calcium reactor and I should be set for a LONG time fully automated.
Time will tell how well it works!
Everything looks great!
I have to say I really am digging the kitchen and stove though. Really - love it!
OP
OP
atomic081
Active Member
Ohh my 2 year old is always up to something!!!
Ill keep everyone posted on the reactors!
Thanks, Im really happy with how it turned out.[/QUOTE]
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