Basics.
- Thread starter NewSaltWaterGuy
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- Get an RO Buddie for RO/DI water, that will last a year for you, and give decent water
- Reef crystal salt,
- HoB filter, AquaClear 30 if you are making lps/softies.. get 70 if you are going for sps, you can use it a refugium
- Rio90 return pump (i dont know what tank you are using)
- Kessil A80 for light (not needed til tank is cycled)
- If you are using cover for tank and evaporation is not a concern, then its fine,. else get an ATO , e.g smart ato micro
- Any decent 25w heater (not needed til tank is cycled)
- digital thermometer, refractometer
- Oyster feast and reef roid for food (not needed til tank is cycled)
- Reef crystal salt,
- HoB filter, AquaClear 30 if you are making lps/softies.. get 70 if you are going for sps, you can use it a refugium
- Rio90 return pump (i dont know what tank you are using)
- Kessil A80 for light (not needed til tank is cycled)
- If you are using cover for tank and evaporation is not a concern, then its fine,. else get an ATO , e.g smart ato micro
- Any decent 25w heater (not needed til tank is cycled)
- digital thermometer, refractometer
- Oyster feast and reef roid for food (not needed til tank is cycled)
Didn't see anyone else add this link, so if you haven't read it yet, it is a great starting point. The Supreme Guide to setting up a tank:
https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/138750/
I'll also mention I kept a stonogobiops nematodes in a 5 gallon with a pistol shrimp for a year or so, he was pretty shy and hid a lot. He came out much more and was like a different fish when I moved him to a 14g biocube.
https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/138750/
I'll also mention I kept a stonogobiops nematodes in a 5 gallon with a pistol shrimp for a year or so, he was pretty shy and hid a lot. He came out much more and was like a different fish when I moved him to a 14g biocube.
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NewSaltWaterGuy
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Just read it, quality information 
! Actually a great article.
Does give some outlook for me and what to do in the future.
Thinking of maybe going with a 13.5 gallon? think it was... All in one system the fluval evo? anyone know if that's a good "kit" really don't want to go over the 10 gallon limit so 13g is a big step.
! Actually a great article. Does give some outlook for me and what to do in the future.
Thinking of maybe going with a 13.5 gallon? think it was... All in one system the fluval evo? anyone know if that's a good "kit" really don't want to go over the 10 gallon limit so 13g is a big step.
savetheocean
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13.5 sounds good. Any idea what fish you want?Just read it, quality information
Does give some outlook for me and what to do in the future.
Thinking of maybe going with a 13.5 gallon? think it was... All in one system the fluval evo? anyone know if that's a good "kit" really don't want to go over the 10 gallon limit so 13g is a big step.
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NewSaltWaterGuy
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would be going for a pair of clowns. Max.
More interested in the corals and how the function, this would be for studying mostly. Studying how corals work, etc, and testing my limits over time to see which ones I can grow.
But first I have to save up a few more bucks to buy all this at once.. All this being the/a protein skimmer and the setup.
savetheocean
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You dont have to buy everything at once, but buy the tank and the heater first so you can cycle it before you get everything else.
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NewSaltWaterGuy
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My apologies
, I wasn't meaning livestock included. I don't agree with fish in cycles... I meant all the equipment and hardscape.
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NewSaltWaterGuy
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Well, I decided to dismantle my fluval V aquascape, surprisingly sold EVERYTHING tonight. (plants) So I have the tank!
Can I use inert sand? about 2 1/2"?
and this is five gallons so no protein skimmer... it'll still be a while before its filled or anything because I need to save money for a proper light and live rock. My current light is a fluval aquasky, would that work? its high light.
So all I need is:
well water tests
info on substrate depth and use of inert sand.
and... live rock...
then some different test kits, but that should be pretty ez to find...
that's it if im correct?
Can I use inert sand? about 2 1/2"?
and this is five gallons so no protein skimmer... it'll still be a while before its filled or anything because I need to save money for a proper light and live rock. My current light is a fluval aquasky, would that work? its high light.
So all I need is:
well water tests
info on substrate depth and use of inert sand.
and... live rock...
then some different test kits, but that should be pretty ez to find...
that's it if im correct?
By inert sand do you mean not "live" or pool filter sand or?
I would recommend an aragonite sand. the pool filter sands are generally silicate based, and silica will give you a problem with diatoms. You will get diatoms regardless, but they will be easy to deal with if the silica in the sand is not continuously feeding them.
I would recommend an rodi, the well water may be ok but you have to think about it this way... as you know from other aquatic experiences we are water keepers first.
Removing everything from the water, then adding the salt mix, we know what is in it. Without pure water there is a question mark. Then you look at evaporation, that small amount of metal (for instance) in the water may not seem like much, but when you are topping off the tank you add a little more, and a little more, water changes won't remove enough over time, and nothing in the tank is using it, so it gradually becomes a bigger problem.
Also the alkalinity in your well may not be desirable, for instance boron contributes to alkalinity but that's not what corals use to grow. Again you will be adding this as evaporation top off and the problem could become worse over time.
On a small tank like this you could easily get away with buying distilled water until you get tired of lugging water from the store.
Test kits for the cycle you need a refractometer, ammonia, and nitrate, nitrite is nice to have but unneccesary imo. API should be fine for cycling but as you get more into monitoring nutrients, a better nitrate kit will be needed.
Red Sea has a nice Marine Care multi test kit, that would be a nice alternative to the API.
Before you add corals, alkalinity, calcium and magnesium tests
Somewhere in there you will want a decent phosphate test as well.
I like the red sea pro kits myself, I just recently got a hannah phosphorus checker and that s nice too. Salifert has an excellent reputation for their test kits as well.
Happy reefing!
Oh, and looking at that light, it should be ok for viewing during the cycle. I would keep it tuned more blue, and plan to replace it before adding corals.
I would recommend an aragonite sand. the pool filter sands are generally silicate based, and silica will give you a problem with diatoms. You will get diatoms regardless, but they will be easy to deal with if the silica in the sand is not continuously feeding them.
I would recommend an rodi, the well water may be ok but you have to think about it this way... as you know from other aquatic experiences we are water keepers first.
Removing everything from the water, then adding the salt mix, we know what is in it. Without pure water there is a question mark. Then you look at evaporation, that small amount of metal (for instance) in the water may not seem like much, but when you are topping off the tank you add a little more, and a little more, water changes won't remove enough over time, and nothing in the tank is using it, so it gradually becomes a bigger problem.
Also the alkalinity in your well may not be desirable, for instance boron contributes to alkalinity but that's not what corals use to grow. Again you will be adding this as evaporation top off and the problem could become worse over time.
On a small tank like this you could easily get away with buying distilled water until you get tired of lugging water from the store.
Test kits for the cycle you need a refractometer, ammonia, and nitrate, nitrite is nice to have but unneccesary imo. API should be fine for cycling but as you get more into monitoring nutrients, a better nitrate kit will be needed.
Red Sea has a nice Marine Care multi test kit, that would be a nice alternative to the API.
Before you add corals, alkalinity, calcium and magnesium tests
Somewhere in there you will want a decent phosphate test as well.
I like the red sea pro kits myself, I just recently got a hannah phosphorus checker and that s nice too. Salifert has an excellent reputation for their test kits as well.
Happy reefing!
Oh, and looking at that light, it should be ok for viewing during the cycle. I would keep it tuned more blue, and plan to replace it before adding corals.
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NewSaltWaterGuy
Community Member
Yea inert I mean PFS or BSDBS (not an option though), or just Petco sand. No nutrients in it.
This is neat, I will have to do more research into this...
Still looking to get my water tested in the near future here so I will go further into that "part" of planning later on.
That's my #2 plan if the well water is Not suitable at all.
RO/DI is not an option, why I have been so persistent in going away from this option.
Thanks, will look at that
Yep, as in the aquascaping hobby, you and I both know we have a long plan before we take action.
Thank you, you to!
Why replace? the corals of course would be low to medium light (because I'm scared of killing the high lights, plus from what I see the majority of low lights are easier) but with an apogee PAR meter (modified) I get about 175 PAR at the substrate, and its max is 200 PAR. Suitable?
Oh and it has RGB, blues and reds can flux. greatly, they all can.
Petco has some suitable sands, that are not very expensive, you won't need a lot for a 5g.
this would be fine, though I can't tell what size it is, depending on flow it may move around a bit
The red and green is the problem with the light, imo, the light is even listed as saltwater fish only.. the PAR is a fine number, but it's not all light in the usable spectrum by the corals. I'm sure you could try it and see what happens. I'd expect it would give you some algae troubles since the light would encourage plant growth over coral growth, if that makes sense. @saltyfilmfolks may have some input, he's a big light nerd and would know better than me probably.
For water chemistry, this link has ALL of Randy Holmes-Farley's chemistry articles, there's a lot.. but there are several about metals in aquaria and also boron/borate If you scroll down. https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/174821/
The red and green is the problem with the light, imo, the light is even listed as saltwater fish only.. the PAR is a fine number, but it's not all light in the usable spectrum by the corals. I'm sure you could try it and see what happens. I'd expect it would give you some algae troubles since the light would encourage plant growth over coral growth, if that makes sense. @saltyfilmfolks may have some input, he's a big light nerd and would know better than me probably.
For water chemistry, this link has ALL of Randy Holmes-Farley's chemistry articles, there's a lot.. but there are several about metals in aquaria and also boron/borate If you scroll down. https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/174821/
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NewSaltWaterGuy
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For the light, its completely manual adjusting. You can turn of the red, or green, or blue, you get the point lol. Or dim it, you have total control over the light basically. So it would be only red/blue/dim white.
Sure, I think it's fine to try it. It's just not really a light designed for coral. Guess it would kinda be like taking a reef light and use it on a planted freshwater tank, with all the blues not really being the spectrum your plants need to grow, even though they make up the PAR. It's not just PAR, it's the usable spectrum of the light for what you are trying to grow.
I'd expect many softies will be fine with that light. I have some rock that was in a bucket with no light, just a powerhead and saltwater, for almost a year. I used this rock to setup my clownfish tank and it has some Kenya tree coral coming back... amazing really..
I'd expect many softies will be fine with that light. I have some rock that was in a bucket with no light, just a powerhead and saltwater, for almost a year. I used this rock to setup my clownfish tank and it has some Kenya tree coral coming back... amazing really..
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