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Battlecorals Vivid's Rainbow Acropora - Contest Discussion Thread
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Results looked great, perfect for enhancement !!!
No key issues, except Barium was a bit high. Need more growth, lol.
Here my 2 cents:
Alk with 9 is ok, since Nitrates are a bit higher hence no risk of ULNS tissue burn!
Try to get lower very slowly into the 8 range if you can.
Bromine with 67 is a good foundation. Increase it now into the range of 85 to get some more metallic shimmer on your SPS skin ;-)
Boron with 3,9 is solid as well, for enhancement I would lift it up to 7-8 for better reds and more depth in color on red and blues. I'm at 10, and for my taste it's too much red now, lol. Will go back to 7-8 as well.
Fluorid solid as well. Get that up to 1.7-1.8 and experience a significant change in shimmer and depth of color. NEVER go over 2.0 hence I carefully recommend to get to 1.7-1.8. It also seems to enhance growth and make SPS looking more bold, especially Tenuis type of Acros and Deepwater show much better fluorescence.
Iodine, well well well, careful here. I would do a very careful trending type of daily drops! I overdosed always if I did single doses. Hence I recommend Seachem Potassium Iodide and I do in my 300G around 12 drops daily with a dropper bottle from Amazon. Iodide oxidizes into Iodine depending on the tank over a few days. Simply do drops daily and watch Iodine in another month. Around 60-70 is ideal, going borderline into the 80-90's is tricky only with follow up ICP's and strict drops per day routine.
Barium, keep an eye on, careful with Supplements you may do that contain Barium. Not sure yet where the upper limit is, but 40 is the end of the green range according to Triton lab.
Manganese I would start dosing daily, even if you wont get any readings in the next test, you know it's been consumed.
Zinc and Vanadium is apparently good, no action here.
Nickel, Cobalt, Silver and Copper especially, I guess you won't touch for now anyways since this would become another level of testing and experimenting ;-)
That basically requires monthly testing to see what the tank consumes with a weekly test period in the very beginning of dosing these traces.
Po4 is great.
-Andre
Your SPS in overall will appear a bit better with more secondary colors when you manage to get Nitrates into the 2-4 ppm range, but I would only do that if you can manage that with not much correction. It's better and easier to get the tank down to this level by habit so it stays in that range. Hope that makes it clear what I mean, we don't really want to chase a Nitrate level with too much effort.
MTBake
2500 Club Member
I'll repost the link for others to see since it worked
//lab.atiaquaristik.com/share/26d86bde8c87b9bfb62c
Thanks for the tips Andre! Going to go slow with adjustments for sure. I'll send in another test in a weeks time to see how levels are progressing.
//lab.atiaquaristik.com/share/26d86bde8c87b9bfb62c
Thanks for the tips Andre! Going to go slow with adjustments for sure. I'll send in another test in a weeks time to see how levels are progressing.
Link works if copied into the browser!I'll repost the link for others to see since it worked
//lab.atiaquaristik.com/share/26d86bde8c87b9bfb62c
Thanks for the tips Andre! Going to go slow with adjustments for sure. I'll send in another test in a weeks time to see how levels are progressing.
Josh Kraft
Well-Known Member
My results came in. No idea where the tin is coming from. I have always struggled with nitrates. I probably have not done a water change since January/February. This tank was setup in December.
I currently dose... Iodine, Calcium/Strontium Mixture, Iron, and KH.
http://lab.atiaquaristik.com/publicAnalysis/17517
Equipment:
Current USA eFlux DC Flow Pump - 1050GPH
Bubble Magus Curve 5 In Sump Needle Wheel Protein Skimmer w/ Bubble Plate
2x EcoTech Marine VorTech MP40wQD Propeller Pump w/ Wireless QuietDrive Driver (there is some rust on the wet side tips)
Tunze USA 1073.020 Silence Recirculation Pump - I run this wrapped in filter floss to scrub the water
Finnex HMA-300S Electronic Controller Aquarium Heater/Titanium Tube/Heater Guard
Inkbird Itc-308 Digital Temperature Controller Outlet Thermostat, 2-stage, 1100w, w/ Sensor
Vecton-6: V2 600 25 Watt UV Sterilizer
QUIET ONE PRO 1200 (317 GPH) - LIFEGARD (feeds water to UV)
I currently dose... Iodine, Calcium/Strontium Mixture, Iron, and KH.
http://lab.atiaquaristik.com/publicAnalysis/17517
Equipment:
Current USA eFlux DC Flow Pump - 1050GPH
Bubble Magus Curve 5 In Sump Needle Wheel Protein Skimmer w/ Bubble Plate
2x EcoTech Marine VorTech MP40wQD Propeller Pump w/ Wireless QuietDrive Driver (there is some rust on the wet side tips)
Tunze USA 1073.020 Silence Recirculation Pump - I run this wrapped in filter floss to scrub the water
Finnex HMA-300S Electronic Controller Aquarium Heater/Titanium Tube/Heater Guard
Inkbird Itc-308 Digital Temperature Controller Outlet Thermostat, 2-stage, 1100w, w/ Sensor
Vecton-6: V2 600 25 Watt UV Sterilizer
QUIET ONE PRO 1200 (317 GPH) - LIFEGARD (feeds water to UV)
Last edited:
Ok, with those high tin levels I would not spent time and money on trace elements for now but get the Tin down.
The upper detection limit is at 192, so the reading is accurate.
How much water volume do you have? I give you a water change schedule and calc for correction on that.
What salt are you using?
Josh Kraft
Well-Known Member
93ish is total volume, need to subtract rocks / sand / equip usage. Also, should I try to find the source of tin? Or do you think it did not come from my equipment?
I used IO Reef Crystals to establish the tank, but I believe I have the supplies to make my own salt (but I have never done it yet). Think I should give this a shot?
5 Gallons / RO Water
486.57 g / NaCl+ . pure Salt
4.54 g / KH+ . SodiumBicarbonate
30.55 g / Ca+ . CalciumChloride
105.19 g / Mg+ . MagnesiumChloride
131.54 g / MagnesiumSulphate
49.24 ml / K+ Liquid
4.60 ml / Sr+ Strontium
9.60 ml / B+ Boron
0.30 ml / I+ Iodide
0.08 ml / Mn+
I used IO Reef Crystals to establish the tank, but I believe I have the supplies to make my own salt (but I have never done it yet). Think I should give this a shot?
5 Gallons / RO Water
486.57 g / NaCl+ . pure Salt
4.54 g / KH+ . SodiumBicarbonate
30.55 g / Ca+ . CalciumChloride
105.19 g / Mg+ . MagnesiumChloride
131.54 g / MagnesiumSulphate
49.24 ml / K+ Liquid
4.60 ml / Sr+ Strontium
9.60 ml / B+ Boron
0.30 ml / I+ Iodide
0.08 ml / Mn+
@Josh Kraft
10 WC @25% will get you down to 5 microgram/L
14-15 get you below 2 microgram/L
# Before WC WC % After WC
1 94 25 71
2 71 25 53
3 53 25 40
4 40 25 30
5 30 25 22
6 22 25 17
7 17 25 13
8 13 25 9
9 9 25 7
10 7 25 5
11 5 25 4
12 4 25 3
13 3 25 2
14 2 25 2
Guess it's easier to do huge WC's, considering the health of the corals and resulting stress !!! Not sure.
Look up on the web for a product called Detox, not sure if it absorbs also Tin!
That may be the cheaper solution.
Look for rotten pumps and pump casings, drips on the stand inside etc.
Tin is used a lot for coating on screws and metal parts as a layer corrosion protection. Doesn't help with Saltwater since it subject to electrolysis then and dissolves completely into it' compounds such as Tin.
Look up on the web for a product called Detox, not sure if it absorbs also Tin!
That may be the cheaper solution.
Look for rotten pumps and pump casings, drips on the stand inside etc.
Tin is used a lot for coating on screws and metal parts as a layer corrosion protection. Doesn't help with Saltwater since it subject to electrolysis then and dissolves completely into it' compounds such as Tin.
Josh Kraft
Well-Known Member
This is an interesting read as well, especially the note about new tanks.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/high-tin-seems-to-be-common.297712/
Very interesting read, yes. Did not know about this!
So get all rotten screws out, lol.
Caravanshaka
Well-Known Member
Updated results from ATI finally
http://lab.atiaquaristik.com/share/923d91197d4795724968
Nitrates are now at 5, and I have slowed my dosing
Still can't get phosphates up despite dosing, but they are at least detectable
Flouride up over 1, but still not where I am at (you'll see why below)
Iodide has reached good levels now
Still no Barium supplement, so it has remained low
Now, the real issue I am having with my tank....Fritz RPM Pro salt. I asked ATI to test a fresh salt mix instead of RO and they were kind enough to do so. The big 3 look reasonable, but outside of that I am terribly disappointed with this salt. I've also got 400g worth of mix sitting at my house...hopefully I can unload most of it to some FOWLR locals and switch to a new salt. Note, I don't believe they tested ALK since it was in the RO container.
http://lab.atiaquaristik.com/share/0f922a60ed3f14f518d9
http://lab.atiaquaristik.com/share/923d91197d4795724968
Nitrates are now at 5, and I have slowed my dosing
Still can't get phosphates up despite dosing, but they are at least detectable
Flouride up over 1, but still not where I am at (you'll see why below)
Iodide has reached good levels now
Still no Barium supplement, so it has remained low
Now, the real issue I am having with my tank....Fritz RPM Pro salt. I asked ATI to test a fresh salt mix instead of RO and they were kind enough to do so. The big 3 look reasonable, but outside of that I am terribly disappointed with this salt. I've also got 400g worth of mix sitting at my house...hopefully I can unload most of it to some FOWLR locals and switch to a new salt. Note, I don't believe they tested ALK since it was in the RO container.
http://lab.atiaquaristik.com/share/0f922a60ed3f14f518d9
Send you a PM already to your lab results on the tank.
However, lol, you have the Fritz with extreme high Ba, you can use to bump up Barium temporarily until you got a supplement for it ;-)
If my quick math is correct, then every 10G Fritz on 100G tank water will give you about 10-12Ba!
@Tphill , did you not have issues with high Barium? Same salt maybe?
MTBake
2500 Club Member
I feel your pain. I lost like 13 sps frags over the past 2 months. Looks like the worst is behind me though.
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