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indiana812

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So I will try to keep this as short as possible.

I at first thought the algae on the sand was the "red slime" with my blue light on - so i dosed the recommended amount of this, thinking it would solve my problem....Well it did not and ticked off my anemone who has yet to inflate since dosing.

I have done some more reading and I am now thinking that possibly doing H2O2 would take care of this issue. I asked my local coral shop & I was told this was new tank syndrome and they recommended more cuc & MicroBacter 7.....

I have read that H2O2 may not be Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp safe - and i really don't want to tick my anemone off again (it has already moved once). Can anyone look at these pictures and see the "hair" algae & on the sand and tell me the best way to tackle this issue?

16 Gal biocube - currently running Saxby's lighting on an AI prime HD.

Do i buy the Microbacter 7 or should I dose 3% H2O2?

Thank you so much in advance for your help! :)
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Never buy never test in a nano :) just act

see these two, no test, strong outcome bottom to top cleaning action.

cyano will be ejected, chem free, use no doser thats playing, this is battle:



you can run that any number of times and it makes the tank better, not worse. It’s a reset for the various ways invaders express home to home. They dont express much in the sand, after that, and it takes two hours on a small nano or less.

once your tank is forced into compliance, then test the water. If it doesn’t test perfect, your testers are bad…we did all new water there both times. Those are the two best rip cleans I’ve seen for small tanks
 
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indiana812

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Stop dosing things. What are your parameters? Age of tank? Full tank pic?
I bought the saltwater tank used in late January / kept all the water & rock and started working off of that. Water changes with RODI - weekly. I am at work now but the last parameters I took last week were all good.


IMG_1156.jpg
 
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indiana812

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Never buy never test in a nano :) just act

see these two, no test, strong outcome bottom to top cleaning action.

cyano will be ejected, chem free, use no doser thats playing, this is battle:



you can run that any number of times and it makes the tank better, not worse. It’s a reset for the various ways invaders express home to home. They dont express much in the sand, after that, and it takes two hours on a small nano or less.

once your tank is forced into compliance, then test the water. If it doesn’t test perfect, your testers are bad…we did all new water there both times. Those are the two best rip cleans I’ve seen for small tanks

So Step one if to manually clean rock outside of tank, step 2 being sand bed? Did I read these correctly? What is the 3% ratio you are using for peroxide / tank water when cleaning a live rock outside of the tank?
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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This is their basic action mode:

sandbed bacteria don’t matter like we’ve been told, they’re expendable at any time and the rocks handle resulting load.

using that info, we take down the reef and hold fish and corals in a bucket

take out rocks and scrape off algae and burn that area with 3% peroxide IF algae on the rocks is the issue like they had


if it’s just your sand, skip that part and don’t clean off the rocks.

what you’re doing is pulling and rinsing the sand in tap water for an hour to blast it clean, because the live rock bacteria handle things just fine.


then you lower your light levels in the clean tank, feed well, slowly bring back up levels. That’s a rip clean, your main handy part was the sand cleaning
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Very nice reef! These growths are expected in that setup, and don’t indicate anything bad.


you’re still allowed to rip it clean on demand though, it’s merely a look we impart to the system it doesn’t matter if that’s natural above.

we devised a way to give reefers the clean they want, simple as that.

skip the peroxide here* your rocks are fine and that lysmata shrimp is peroxide sensitive.

*you could even drain down and catch half your water, clean, and re use it in the new tank with fifty percent old


thats still inputting clean water, on top of blasted clean 1000% cloudless sand, not 999% but one thousand percent rinsed sand, same rocks, same fish and coral back in.

match temp and salinity only. Set back a clean skip cycle tank.

we are de aging your system this way, with the hard work export. It’s not beyond me that three different simple additives would kill that growth. Those compound the waste, we remove it, hard work is better. Adding dosers compounds waste already in that bed, new tanks take on waste quickly as we seek cleaning and feed and current and export balance. This here is just a big heckuva catch up run.

check this out

the process isnt deemed extreme when we move homes, its deemed normal for fifty pages


see how the system isn't bad, any way you slice it? notice the lack of alternate before and after links, where we gave a few hundred right above. you either want the extended clean run time or you dont. you're either willing to do the work or you aren't but the method itself is a consistently positive impact says the after shots and testimony and eight month follow ups.
 
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Jekyl

GSP is the devil and clowns are bad pets
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The amount of algae I see doesn't seem like it warrants any extreme measures. Vacuum the sand during water changes, use a toothbrush and vacuum on the rocks and suck out the excess.
 

Garf

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So I will try to keep this as short as possible.

I at first thought the algae on the sand was the "red slime" with my blue light on - so i dosed the recommended amount of this, thinking it would solve my problem....Well it did not and ticked off my anemone who has yet to inflate since dosing.

I have done some more reading and I am now thinking that possibly doing H2O2 would take care of this issue. I asked my local coral shop & I was told this was new tank syndrome and they recommended more cuc & MicroBacter 7.....

I have read that H2O2 may not be Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp safe - and i really don't want to tick my anemone off again (it has already moved once). Can anyone look at these pictures and see the "hair" algae & on the sand and tell me the best way to tackle this issue?

16 Gal biocube - currently running Saxby's lighting on an AI prime HD.

Do i buy the Microbacter 7 or should I dose 3% H2O2?

Thank you so much in advance for your help! :)
A few clean up crew, snails, hermits, would help wonders. Algae on the sand is deriving nutrients trapped in detritus, so syphon it.
 

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