Beginnings of the Acro Reef --- RS Reefer 425

[oneilwiz]

Build update: Custom light mounting rail. Done.

After taking measurements and doing some drawings, I ordered some parts from 8020inc so I could build the light mounts out of aluminum extrusion. The idea is to mount 3x GHL Mitras LX7 LEDs from a single arm. The back pieces and arm have 4-way grooves which allow me to cleanly hide the power cables.

Big thanks to Deven from ReefDudes for the idea!

Here's a list of parts that were used to build the light mount:
These parts can be ordered from 8020 directly or on 8020's eBay store...

Put it all together and you get this...

Setup is sick man, is the light Rail mounted to the Tank or the wall. It looks like the tank, wasn't sure.

That's it for now!
Stay tuned for the next update...Adding sand and rocks!

 

[KenO]

I thought you had 3 lights?

 

[KenO]

What did you use for the attachment to the lights to the rail?

 

[KStatefan]

I thought you had 3 lights?

He does
see post #13

 

[KenO]

He does
see post #13

The latest picture with the new rails only shows 2 lights.

 

[KStatefan]

The latest picture with the new rails only shows 2 lights.

I do not see that post for some reason

 

[KenO]

I do not see that post for some reason

Go to post 61 and click on expand.

 

[KStatefan]

Go to post 61 and click on expand.

Post 61 is not from Vinny

 

[KenO]

Post 61 is not from Vinny

Ah your right. My mistake.

 

[jandlms]

Build update: Modified plumbing. Done.
The plumbing was already done several days ahead of this build thread getting started, so I'm just catching it up.

After much planning, I put together a drawing of how I wanted to layout the plumbing and thought I had everything I needed, but no. Of course, there is always one or two pieces that get overlooked and end up delaying the process. ;Facepalm

In the end, everything else came-in and I went right to work...Fast forward a couple hours and...viola!
The plumbing is done.

I put together a parts list for those who would like to do this kind of plumbing layout on their Reefer 425XL.
*** All parts are sch 80 PVC ***

*** DRAIN ***

• 2x Red Sea Return connectors for connecting to your drain; RS part #R42222 (Compatible w/ 450/425XL/525)
• 2x 3/4" x 1" male adapter S x MPT (Connects to drains)
• 5x 1" Elbow slip (Drains)
• 1x 1" Spears gate valve (Primary drain)
• 2x 5ft pieces of 1" PVC pipe (Drains)

*** RETURN / 3-WAY MANIFOLD ***

• 1x Red Sea Return connector for connecting to your return; RS part #R42222 (Compatible w/ 450/425XL/525)
• 1x 3/4" male adapter S x MPT (Connects to return)
• 1x 3/4" Spears gate valve
• 3x 3/4" Tee slip
• 2x 3/4" Street 90 elbow slip
• 2x 3/4" Elbow slip
• 3x 3/4" x 1/2" bushing
• 3x 1/2" True union Ball valve (Red Flag brand)
• 1x 3/4" Single union Ball valve (Red Flag brand)
• 1x 3/4" PVC barbed male adapter MIPT x Insert

That's it for now!
Stay tuned for the next update...Custom light mounting rail!

Sorry but I’m just not following the water flow in your diagram. Could you add an arrow or two to clarify? I also note that you have a three way manifold on the return and I only see one split return on the inside of the tank attached to the overflow. What are the other two “ways” of the manifold going to?
Sorry but I have been out of reefkeeping for a couple of years and I just can’t follow the flow so to speak.

 

[Vinny@GHLUSA]

Looks like I missed quite a bit of posts since my last visit here...time to catch up!

I'll have some updates to share with you all in the next few days. Stay tuned!

@Vinny@GHLUSA amazing build. Question how do the mitras do In Spectrum. How close are they to Ati bulb spectrum? I always love the GHL lights but some people who purchased the have talked me out of them. So in love with the design of them

With the 9 channels you have to work with on the Mitras, as long as you can produce a spectral graph which includes all ATI bulb spectrums, you can get very close to matching it. Feel free to reach out anytime with questions.

Well I’ll be watching this thread like a hawk! Lol. I’ve been soooo up in the air about what direction I want to take my SPS build controller wise, and this thread could be the very thing I need to finalize that decision!!! Can I get a little more info on how to run the mp40s through this controller please? And please don’t flame me for this, but is it possible to do the same with the xr30 gen 5s? I’ve heard great things about the GHL lights, don’t get me wrong!!! But I know first hand how much I love my gen5 blues. Besides if it isn’t possible maybe that’s the push I need to try the GHL lights? Lol.

Thanks for following! Since this will be an SPS build, I'm sure you'll find a lot of relatable plans and ideas along the way. Any questions, just ask. I'd be happy to help.

There is an article on the GHL Knowledge Base which provides the steps for Vortech pump control via the ProfiLux. You can find that here:

How to setup Vortech pump control

www.aquariumcomputer.com

As far as I know, G5s do not support 3rd party control over any controller besides ETM's own platform.

@oneilwiz
Thanks for following.
The light rail is mounted directly to the back wall of the stand. I used the 4296 as the mounting plates and just drilled them onto the stand. The plates themselves are held onto the frame using the 3320 pieces.

I thought you had 3 lights?

Yes, I have 3 lights. The most recent photo was taken before the last light (7204) was mounted. I'll get an updated shot in a couple days.

The lights themselves are mounted to the rail mostly using parts from AquariumLedMounts.com. Since their LX7 mounting option includes a ball socket piece, I disassembled that and picked up 3 of these. This is 80/20 part #13051 from Ebay.

This piece slides right into the T-slot of the frame. I took the M5 screw that comes with the LX7 mount from AquariumLED and screwed it onto this piece. The great thing about this is that I can freely slide the lights and position them exactly where I want them.

 

[hellsangelbx]

Excited to see new pics or any videos on the plan. Thabks @Vinnyfor getting back to us and sharing your experience of building a ultimate Ghl tank.

 

[KenO]

Looks like I missed quite a bit of posts since my last visit here...time to catch up!

I'll have some updates to share with you all in the next few days. Stay tuned!


With the 9 channels you have to work with on the Mitras, as long as you can produce a spectral graph which includes all ATI bulb spectrums, you can get very close to matching it. Feel free to reach out anytime with questions.



Thanks for following! Since this will be an SPS build, I'm sure you'll find a lot of relatable plans and ideas along the way. Any questions, just ask. I'd be happy to help.

There is an article on the GHL Knowledge Base which provides the steps for Vortech pump control via the ProfiLux. You can find that here:

How to setup Vortech pump control

www.aquariumcomputer.com

As far as I know, G5s do not support 3rd party control over any controller besides ETM's own platform.

@oneilwiz
Thanks for following.
The light rail is mounted directly to the back wall of the stand. I used the 4296 as the mounting plates and just drilled them onto the stand. The plates themselves are held onto the frame using the 3320 pieces.


Yes, I have 3 lights. The most recent photo was taken before the last light (7204) was mounted. I'll get an updated shot in a couple days.

The lights themselves are mounted to the rail mostly using parts from AquariumLedMounts.com. Since their LX7 mounting option includes a ball socket piece, I disassembled that and picked up 3 of these. This is 80/20 part #13051 from Ebay.

This piece slides right into the T-slot of the frame. I took the M5 screw that comes with the LX7 mount from AquariumLED and screwed it onto this piece. The great thing about this is that I can freely slide the lights and position them exactly where I want them.

Look at post #56. I posted a couple of actual spectrum outputs of the Mitras LX7's with the light composer settings. I have 3 of these lights. I love them.

 

[Vinny@GHLUSA]

Sorry but I’m just not following the water flow in your diagram. Could you add an arrow or two to clarify? I also note that you have a three way manifold on the return and I only see one split return on the inside of the tank attached to the overflow. What are the other two “ways” of the manifold going to?
Sorry but I have been out of reefkeeping for a couple of years and I just can’t follow the flow so to speak.

Sure.

The tank itself has two drains and one return. The drains are the two pipes on the far right. One of the drains is the primary one and the other is the backup drain just in case the main one gets blocked for some reason.

The return line (far left) gets teed off into a 3-way manifold. This will be for a media reactor, GHL ProfiLux Temperature Control device and an extra for any future expansion needs.

 

[jandlms]

Great explanation. Thank you.
i just wasn’t seeing it but now it makes sense. I may be stealing some of your concepts/ideas when I start my build in January (hopefully).
Definitely will be following your progress.

 

[hellsangelbx]

Any updates here?

 

[Vinny@GHLUSA]

Build update: Install more GHL goodies and custom display!

Since last month's update, quite a bit has happened.

The tank right now is going through some hair algae growth so it's not exactly photo ready just yet. On the meantime, I've added some cleaners to help keep up with it all.

Fish in the tank!
A few weeks ago, I added the first set of fish which to this day are doing very well and eating dry foods.

• 2x Black Ice Clownfish
• 2x Blue Green Chromis

In 2 weeks, I plan to add these fish:

• One-spot Foxface
• Purple Tang
• 2x Sifting Gobies...possibly the orange spot Gobies

At some point, I would like to also add some Anthias, wrasses and a butterfly fish or two.

Corals in the tank!
As for corals, I picked up a pack of Ricordea from @Monterey Bay Coral. All the polyps were super healthy and colorful. Fast forward some weeks and all of them are still doing well. I'm very happy with the purchase overall.

Bashsea ATO reservoir is now plumbed and in-use
When I was planning out the dimensions and cut outs for this tank, I did not realize that I had forgotten to ask for a float valve to be installed inside...no matter. Fortunately, I was able to use the stock Red Sea float valve and install that in this tank. I think it worked out nicely.

The line from this tank leads into one of the dosing pump heads of the GHL Doser. Together with the doser and the ProfiLux, I have automated my ATO needs. After a few tests, I've found that this tank will last me about 12 days before needing a refill. A quick connection into the float valve and 1.5 hr later and the tank will be refilled.

Bashsea AWC tanks is in-place and ready to use
I've placed this on the right-side of the display tank with a GHL Doser Maxi right above it. The Maxi will be controlled by the ProfiLux and will handle my AWC needs. While one head on the Maxi pulls water from the tank below it, the other head will bring water back into the tank. The plan is to have this connected and ready to go within the next 3 weeks.

GHL Propeller Breeze fans (2x) installed and controlled by the ProfiLux 4
In an effort to keep the overall look of the tank nice and balanced, I decided to go with 2x Breeze fans in the 3-fan version. Each fan is centered on the sides of the overflow box and powered by a single power supply. These fans will be controlled by the ProfiLux through the PropellerBreeze-2.1 accessory. This accessory allows the ProfiLux to control speed of the fans based on the live temperature readings of the tank. If my tank's temperature goes up, the fans will turn ON at a low-speed. If the temperature keeps going up, the ProfiLux will automatically increase the fan speed to increase the cooling efforts. I find this to be the most efficient way to run cooling fans since they don't have to run at 100% power when it's not necessary.

Updated sump shot: Wiring organized, reactor mounted, skimmer running, ProfiLux controller probes installed and calibrated and GHL level sensors installed (ATO, AWC, Low-level)
Now that the ProfiLux controller was hooked up, it was time to calibrate the probes, mount the powerbar and program the controller to manage specific tasks. In the sump there are quite a bit of wires, hopefully it's not too noticeable.

Here I have 3 GHL Level sensors placed in the return pump section of the sump:

• ATO / AWC sensor (For normal ATO control and upper AWC sensor)
• AWC sensor (Lower sensor)
• Lower sensor (Placed right above the Abyzz pump -- this will shut OFF the pump in case the water level drops to this level)

In the same return pump section, I also have my 4 GHL probes and KH Director feed water sample line.

Custom GHL display assembled and installed
This was the next big progression for the tank build! The good folks at Adaptive Reef worked with me to create a custom display which would hold the GHL core products which would be in-use. I think they did a good job!

Once the ION Director comes out, I'll be modifying the display and making space to hold that as well.

Behind this display is where all the wiring is...sorting through it all was fun...
Here is where I'm hiding the smaller GHL parts and other equipment which I don't need immediate access to:

• Powerbar-6E
• Vortech controller & drivers
• PropellerControl-2.1 (Fan controller)
• Mitras LX7 power supplies
• More power supplies
• More cables

Right now, only the ProfiLux 4 and 1 head of the dosing pump is being used. The KH Director will be put online once I start adding more coral to the tank.

Thankfully this display helps keep it out of sight!

Here's what the lower half of the tank looks like at the moment:

That's it for now!
Stay tuned for the next update...

 

[Tristren]

Build update: Install more GHL goodies and custom display!

Since last month's update, quite a bit has happened.

The tank right now is going through some hair algae growth so it's not exactly photo ready just yet. On the meantime, I've added some cleaners to help keep up with it all.

Fish in the tank!
A few weeks ago, I added the first set of fish which to this day are doing very well and eating dry foods.

• 2x Black Ice Clownfish
• 2x Blue Green Chromis

In 2 weeks, I plan to add these fish:

• One-spot Foxface
• Purple Tang
• 2x Sifting Gobies...possibly the orange spot Gobies

At some point, I would like to also add some Anthias, wrasses and a butterfly fish or two.

Corals in the tank!
As for corals, I picked up a pack of Ricordea from @Monterey Bay Coral. All the polyps were super healthy and colorful. Fast forward some weeks and all of them are still doing well. I'm very happy with the purchase overall.

Bashsea ATO reservoir is now plumbed and in-use
When I was planning out the dimensions and cut outs for this tank, I did not realize that I had forgotten to ask for a float valve to be installed inside...no matter. Fortunately, I was able to use the stock Red Sea float valve and install that in this tank. I think it worked out nicely.

The line from this tank leads into one of the dosing pump heads of the GHL Doser. Together with the doser and the ProfiLux, I have automated my ATO needs. After a few tests, I've found that this tank will last me about 12 days before needing a refill. A quick connection into the float valve and 1.5 hr later and the tank will be refilled.

Bashsea AWC tanks is in-place and ready to use
I've placed this on the right-side of the display tank with a GHL Doser Maxi right above it. The Maxi will be controlled by the ProfiLux and will handle my AWC needs. While one head on the Maxi pulls water from the tank below it, the other head will bring water back into the tank. The plan is to have this connected and ready to go within the next 3 weeks.

GHL Propeller Breeze fans (2x) installed and controlled by the ProfiLux 4
In an effort to keep the overall look of the tank nice and balanced, I decided to go with 2x Breeze fans in the 3-fan version. Each fan is centered on the sides of the overflow box and powered by a single power supply. These fans will be controlled by the ProfiLux through the PropellerBreeze-2.1 accessory. This accessory allows the ProfiLux to control speed of the fans based on the live temperature readings of the tank. If my tank's temperature goes up, the fans will turn ON at a low-speed. If the temperature keeps going up, the ProfiLux will automatically increase the fan speed to increase the cooling efforts. I find this to be the most efficient way to run cooling fans since they don't have to run at 100% power when it's not necessary.

Updated sump shot: Wiring organized, reactor mounted, skimmer running, ProfiLux controller probes installed and calibrated and GHL level sensors installed (ATO, AWC, Low-level)
Now that the ProfiLux controller was hooked up, it was time to calibrate the probes, mount the powerbar and program the controller to manage specific tasks. In the sump there are quite a bit of wires, hopefully it's not too noticeable.

Here I have 3 GHL Level sensors placed in the return pump section of the sump:

• ATO / AWC sensor (For normal ATO control and upper AWC sensor)
• AWC sensor (Lower sensor)
• Lower sensor (Placed right above the Abyzz pump -- this will shut OFF the pump in case the water level drops to this level)

In the same return pump section, I also have my 4 GHL probes and KH Director feed water sample line.

Custom GHL display assembled and installed
This was the next big progression for the tank build! The good folks at Adaptive Reef worked with me to create a custom display which would hold the GHL core products which would be in-use. I think they did a good job!

Once the ION Director comes out, I'll be modifying the display and making space to hold that as well.

Behind this display is where all the wiring is...sorting through it all was fun...
Here is where I'm hiding the smaller GHL parts and other equipment which I don't need immediate access to:

• Powerbar-6E
• Vortech controller & drivers
• PropellerControl-2.1 (Fan controller)
• Mitras LX7 power supplies
• More power supplies
• More cables

Right now, only the ProfiLux 4 and 1 head of the dosing pump is being used. The KH Director will be put online once I start adding more coral to the tank.

Thankfully this display helps keep it out of sight!

Here's what the lower half of the tank looks like at the moment:

That's it for now!
Stay tuned for the next update...

Looks great.
In the last pic it looked at first like the flow sensor was on the main manifold trunk and installed backwards : )

Why the gate valve on the return?

Can't wait to see the ION Director set up.

Tony

 

[brett_schn]

Just found this thread! Following along for sure!!

 

[Vinny@GHLUSA]

Nov. 2020 tank update: KHD setup, dosing setup, added fish, and more...

Since the last update, the tank has nicely recovered from the hair algae outbreak. With help from the hermit crabs, snails, fishes and bacteria dosing, the algae has dwindled down to a more manageable level. Even though it's still lingering around, the tank overall is looking better than it did 5 weeks ago.

As of now, these fish are in the tank:

• 2x Black Ice Clownfish
• 1x Hippo tang
• 1x Purple tang
• 1x Blue Throat trigger (Male)
• 1x Fiji Foxface
• 2x Blue Green Chromis

The next additions will likely be some Anthias, although I'm not sure which ones to get yet.
I'm debating between some Lyretail or Resplendent Anthias...

In terms of coral, I have...

• Ricordea polyps
• Starburst cap
• Pink Cadillac acro
• Unknown stag acro
• Orange polyp green cap
• Mystic monti
• Forest fire digi

I'll get some close ups of those another time.

So now we move onto the equipment topic...

KH Director and the journey to 8dkH
After setting up the KHD and running all the tubes and setting up the dosing lines, it was time to verify the KHD's accuracy by doing my first test with the 7.5dkH reference fluid...after about 9 minutes the results came back and showed 7.6

Having the 7.5dkH fluid come back with a 7.6dkH result from the KHD is a good sign and shows that everything is setup and working correctly...time to test Alkalinity in the tank!

Next up, was my first KH test using tank water...to my surprise the KH value was way lower than expected... 4.6!
I would not have thought a few small coral pieces sitting in the tank would drive the KH down that much...go figure. Good thing I setup the KHD and dosing schedules so now the tank can begin the upwards journey to 8.0 dkH.

Now that I knew where my KH levels stood, I went ahead and setup the KH Director to test 4x per day. Even though I could have very well set the KHD to test only 1x per day, I chose to do 4x because it gives me a closer look at the effects of each dose of Alkalinity that goes into the tank.

My dosing schedule officially began on October 26.
I started off with a total daily dose of 50ml which was broken up into 10 doses per day @ 5ml per dose. With each passing day and 4 KH tests per day, I was able to see and determine how much more KH supplement was needed to steadily bring up my KH to 8 DKH.

Over the course of 7 days, I observed the effects of my dosages and steadily increased my daily dose until my Alkalinity levels climbed to my target level. The chart below allows me to compare my current KH dose schedule with the results from the KHD. As you can see, the dosages were steadily increased until they reached the target levels.

Another thing I noticed was how my pH values steadily climbed as the KH values went up...
Whereas my pH values hovered on the high 7s, as my KH values climbed the pH levels also climbed and now average on the low 8s.

Now that my target is reached, it's time to keep adding more coral and adjust as-needed. After another 2-3 weeks of testing, I will activate the KHD's auto adjustment feature to let it take the wheel and correct my dose amounts when needed.