Best Products for a new tank?

[PeterLL]

I'm starting a new tank from dry sand dry rock etc. and looking to start off the cycle and get it as diverse as possible to try avoid NTS as much as I can.
I have a couple questions about your products.
So the Fritz Turbo Start is just the bacteria for the nitrogen cycle. How does this differ to the Pro Bio PNSB? Are they different bacteria accomplishing different things or are they just both tank starting methods that are interchangeable? I'm assuming the PNSB is also to build up bacteria colonies in a new tank.
I'm also adding some of the tiger pods and Tisbe pods, is there any other recommended products to help a new tank get established as soon as possible?

Cheers

 

[vetteguy53081]

While the Fritz is very good, it is a live culture of living bacteria, whereas the PNSB is a little more in which its' probiotic culture promotes the growth of beneficial microbes when introduced to any system both aerobic and anerobic.

 

[mitch91175]

I'm starting a new tank from dry sand dry rock etc. and looking to start off the cycle and get it as diverse as possible to try avoid NTS as much as I can.
I have a couple questions about your products.
So the Fritz Turbo Start is just the bacteria for the nitrogen cycle. How does this differ to the Pro Bio PNSB? Are they different bacteria accomplishing different things or are they just both tank starting methods that are interchangeable? I'm assuming the PNSB is also to build up bacteria colonies in a new tank.
I'm also adding some of the tiger pods and Tisbe pods, is there any other recommended products to help a new tank get established as soon as possible?

Cheers

Best product for a new tank is a piece of live rock from an established tank (without pest of course).

 

[Fishingandreefing]

Best product for a new tank is a piece of live rock from an established tank (without pest of course).

That you really can’t control if there’s pest.

 

[mitch91175]

That you really can’t control if there’s pest.

No you cannot lol. I just put that in there. I have pest myself and not overly concerned with them, vermitid snails, asterina stars, monti eating nudibranches (had them think their gone? Monti still grow too much), aiptasia, had a eunicid worm.

I'd still start a tank with live rock from a well established system.

 

[PeterLL]

No you cannot lol. I just put that in there. I have pest myself and not overly concerned with them, vermitid snails, asterina stars, monti eating nudibranches (had them think their gone? Monti still grow too much), aiptasia, had a eunicid worm.

I'd still start a tank with live rock from a well established system.

I'd like to, but i'm not able to maintain the tank frequently enough to handle pests getting out of control, hence the starting from dry completely and no adding live rock etc. As much as I'd like to

 

[Cell]

Consider Vibrant.

 

[PeterLL]

Consider Vibrant.

To help establish bacteria or to fight pests?
I have display macro algae so can't use it to fight pests, but if it would add and establish some beneficial bacteria I could maybe add it before I add back the Macro's.

 

[Cell]

It would be to help avoid the uglies.

 

[Birddog61]

I like to start dry rock outside the tank with skimmate . From an established system ,free of dinos of course. However you will need to aquire a reefing friend / mentor. hint hint

 

[X-37B]

Diversity in a bottle?
Diversity = live rock and live sand.
Thier is no substitute imo.
50/50 live and dry worked well for my 120.
That said at least a couple pieces of live works.
Get a few pounds of sand from your lfs's tank. It will help to seed your sand be too.
If you must go dry then like above some sand from the lfs and 3 different bottled bacteria would be my method.

 

[mitch91175]

I like to start dry rock outside the tank with skimmate . From an established system ,free of dinos of course. However you will need to aquire a reefing friend / mentor. hint hint

Starting out with dry rock is good way to begin without pest, but in order to remain without them is going to be another challenge in its own right. Not saying you go grab a piece of liverock seeing it has pest .

But depending on what your goal is for your system, do not jump right into SPS starting the tank out with dry rock. Not saying you won’t be successful but you will battle nutrients and SPS doesn’t like inconsistency too much. Give yourself say 6-9 months before considering SPS.

You can use products like TurboStart to help but time and patience will be your best friend.

Seeing the concern about pest, in order to minimize the possibility of them, you will need some kind of regiment that you put all new coral/fish through before touching your display. There are more things out there that you won’t be able to see. Setting up a separate QT system will be your best bet to try to remain “Pest-free”.

 

[PeterLL]

Starting out with dry rock is good way to begin without pest, but in order to remain without them is going to be another challenge in its own right. Not saying you go grab a piece of liverock seeing it has peat .

But depending on what your goal is for your system, do not jump right into SPS starting the tank out with dry rock. Not saying you won’t be successful but you will battle nutrients and SPS doesn’t like inconsistency too much. Give yourself say 6-9 months before considering SPS.

You can use products like TurboStart to help but time and patience will be your best friend.

Seeing the concern about pest, in order to minimize the possibility of them, you will need some kind of regiment that you put all new coral/fish through before touching your display. There are more things out there that you won’t be able to see. Setting up a separate QT system will be your best bet to try to remain “Pest-free”.

Thanks, yeah I am going to have a quarantine system in place for fish, corals inverts etc. including H2O2 dips for corals, RO dips for fish etc.
Its going to be strict what goes in the DT, hence I do want as much pest free guaranteed diversity - even though this will likely mean bottled stuff, just what bottled stuff I should get is mainly what I'm wondering.
And don't worry, SPS really aren't on the plan for the first year at the very least - mostly softies and macro algaes.

Cheers

 

[mitch91175]

Thanks, yeah I am going to have a quarantine system in place for fish, corals inverts etc. including H2O2 dips for corals, RO dips for fish etc.
Its going to be strict what goes in the DT, hence I do want as much pest free guaranteed diversity - even though this will likely mean bottled stuff, just what bottled stuff I should get is mainly what I'm wondering.
And don't worry, SPS really aren't on the plan for the first year at the very least - mostly softies and macro algaes.

Cheers

So if your setting up a QT system you can begin with quarantining a few pieces of live rock. Still run the system but know that you’ll be adding in liverock from an established system. Sure there are hobbyist near you that would give you some. Then you’ll have introduced a wealth of biodiversity instantly. Then just allow it to propagate throughout your system.

 

[PeterLL]

So if your setting up a QT system you can begin with quarantining a few pieces of live rock. Still run the system but know that you’ll be adding in liverock from an established system. Sure there are hobbyist near you that would give you some. Then you’ll have introduced a wealth of biodiversity instantly. Then just allow it to propagate throughout your system.

I'm not sure how to quarantine live rock though to prevent it potentally having vermetids, tiny pieces of byropsis or anything inside it I couldnt want. This isnt an issue as for corals I'm dipping in h202 and fish are getting freshwater dipped as I'm okay killing everything on the corals and fish that isn't the corals and fish themselves. But I cant dip LR as it would surely make it dead rock then, and defeating the purpose?

 

[mitch91175]

I'm not sure how to quarantine live rock though to prevent it potentally having vermetids, tiny pieces of byropsis or anything inside it I couldnt want. This isnt an issue as for corals I'm dipping in h202 and fish are getting freshwater dipped as I'm okay killing everything on the corals and fish that isn't the corals and fish themselves. But I cant dip LR as it would surely make it dead rock then, and defeating the purpose?

No you cannot dip live rock but you sure can see the tank it’s coming from and observe at night if anything does appear out of the live rock.

Essentially all I’m saying is you fill your QT with saltwater, put in the live rock, observe and decide.

But hey just start out with dry rock and put in some TurboStart or Microbacter7 or Dr. Tim’s. Easier to get started that way.

 

[mitch91175]

I'm not sure how to quarantine live rock though to prevent it potentally having vermetids, tiny pieces of byropsis or anything inside it I couldnt want. This isnt an issue as for corals I'm dipping in h202 and fish are getting freshwater dipped as I'm okay killing everything on the corals and fish that isn't the corals and fish themselves. But I cant dip LR as it would surely make it dead rock then, and defeating the purpose?

Freshwater dipping will not cure everything. For fish you’ll still need to QT. Same can be said for corals.

 

[PeterLL]

Freshwater dipping will not cure everything. For fish you’ll still need to QT. Same can be said for corals.

Sorry I should have been more specific, new fish will have a 30 day quarantine, running Myzaxin for 5 days and then 25 days of observation. If they look perfect I'll give them a freshwater dip on the way from the quarantine to the new tank, The quarantine will use old tank water and be kept at the same temperature so they should already be acclimated.
I'll have a separate QT for corals and inverts, where I'll H202 dip the corals at the start and then on the transition between QT and DT.

The reason I'm hesitant to put LR in is because it can still carry stuff like vermetid's even with observation as they can be microscopically small when young and all it takes is one. Even if the established reefer cant see any in his tank doesn't mean there aren't any if you get me?

 

[Kenneth Wingerter]

I'm starting a new tank from dry sand dry rock etc. and looking to start off the cycle and get it as diverse as possible to try avoid NTS as much as I can.
I have a couple questions about your products.
So the Fritz Turbo Start is just the bacteria for the nitrogen cycle. How does this differ to the Pro Bio PNSB? Are they different bacteria accomplishing different things or are they just both tank starting methods that are interchangeable? I'm assuming the PNSB is also to build up bacteria colonies in a new tank.
I'm also adding some of the tiger pods and Tisbe pods, is there any other recommended products to help a new tank get established as soon as possible?

Cheers

Thought I'd give this a bump and also post a link to a new article that might help to answer your question in some detail. https://www.hydrospace.store/post/using-pns-substrate-sauce