Best Saltwater Aquarium Heaters for Winter 2020/2021

[lafarrow]

So is there any consensus on two smaller heaters running at 50% power vs one at 100%? So use 2 400W heaters or 1 800W? Seems like two smaller running less would be the way to go as long as you have a back up (heater kill switch/ alert) for potential bouillabaisse if the heater(s) failed on.

 

[iamacat]

I will throw one out there that probably doesn’t have many users but I would expect that to change as time goes on.

I have a Hygger 969 that I got off Amazon for $75. 500w Titanium tube with abs plastic cover, shutoff with overheating, and turns off when removed from water. The footprint is small enough I can fit it under my bubble trap to my return. Can’t attest to durability but I have plenty of back up heaters available if it fails. Previously I’ve used the jagger and finnex heaters with good success

 

[clownfish4]

Voted other. I live in southwest Florida. In the summer my AC keeps the tank around 80. In the winter I open my windows every day and the tank stays around 80. No heater, no chiller.

 

[Member No 1]

I run 2 300W Finnex as well GHL Controlled. Maintains 78° perfectly. I like your idea of running it staggered. How did you program that in your Profilux?

Josh,

Just saw this post, I can send you the programming tonight once I'm home.

 

[Sharke]

I have this aquarium heater. This heater fits both fresh and saltwater aquariums. It works perfectly for my tank.

 

[DHill6]

Received the IM Helio smart heater, what a nice heating system. It came packed really well, easy set up, temp has not fluctuated at all. I ordered the 100w x2 system. I’m very impressed, thanks IM.

 

[Mjl714]

Received the IM Helio smart heater, what a nice heating system. It came packed really well, easy set up, temp has not fluctuated at all. I ordered the 100w x2 system. I’m very impressed, thanks IM.

So, how do you like the heating system? Tank temp stable?

 

[N1Husker]

I have a Finnex 800 watt heater that is run by my controller. It keeps my temp. Spot on, never fluctuating more that .1 degree either way. I run mine at 77 degrees and the most it went up was to 77.1. It bigger than I need, but it works great.

 

[DHill6]

So, how do you like the heating system? Tank temp stable?

I’m really liking this heater, keeps tank stable, you can see when it’s on by viewing the controller. Easy to clean, small size, very smart.

 

[Doglips56]

MOST of us will need a heater soon or have been using one all year. But during the next few months we will need them the most! We've had MANY similar threads about heaters and which ones are best but times change, technology changes and people change their preferences! So let's do it again! Answer the poll to please!

1. What brand of aquarium heater are you using right now and are you happy with it?
In my display sump I have 2 BRS titanium heaters, primary and backup controlled by separate controllers. Haven’t had any issues and to my knowledge haven’t had any issues where the backup was needed. In my QT tanks I have glass Eheim but prefer the titanium because the glass broke on one
2. What brand do you think is the BEST aquarium heater brand? I’m not convinced there is a “best”. I’ve gotten unbranded from eBay with internal thermostat and name brand controller operated ones and haven’t noticed a difference in quality. Have those in my water mixing station tanks because they’re currently outside

 

[EpisodeMnH]

Somewhat satisfied... but only due to redundancy and monitoring.

I'm using a Finnex TH model, plugged into a BRS branded Inkbird controller, with _that_ plugged into my Apex. The Finnex doesn't have a thermostat, it's turned on and off by the Inkbird, which uses it's own temp probe. The Apex, using it's own temp probe, will alert me via email should tank temp vary outside my set range, and shut down the Inkbird automatically.

I've got a spare Inkbird (non BRS), and a BRS Titanium tube heater (replacement for one that failed me after about 10 months use), on the shelf, ready to be put in service, should they be needed.

I suppose I feel pretty safe, but only because I have multiple backups in place.

IMHO, there is nobody building what I would consider a reliable heater for the aquarium industry. Just no such thing on the market. Layering redundancy is the only safe way to go.

I’m quoting you a year late, but I stumbled on this thread thru a Google search, since I’m in the market for a new heater. Mine is starting to go and I have to set it to 82 to get it to 75, and even that it’s not hitting consistently.

Any particular reason you run the InkBird thru the Apex? To my understanding, the Apex is also a temperature controller that also checks other parameters. So you’re simultaneously running 2 different temperature controllers. Is that just for backup and security in case the InkBird were to fail?

 

[Greybeard]

Any particular reason you run the InkBird thru the Apex? To my understanding, the Apex is also a temperature controller that also checks other parameters. So you’re simultaneously running 2 different temperature controllers. Is that just for backup and security in case the InkBird were to fail?

Any electrical device can, and eventually will, fail. EB832 power outlets have been known to fail ON. I've personally experienced it. If this happens on a heater outlet, it can quickly wipe out a tank.

Risk is too high. The way to mitigate that risk is to add a layer of redundancy. An inexpensive heater controller, I've actually switched to the Bayite model these days, I like the feature and physical layout better... anyway, for $30, it's a HUGE risk reduction. Plug that heater controller into an outlet in the Apex, with the Apex set to alarm and shut off if temp varies outside your set range, and you're pretty safe. The Apex is on all the time, monitoring, while the Bayite handles the normal on/off cycle. If the Bayite fails, the Apex will catch it, shut it off, and alert me that there's a problem I need to address.

Yes, I believe the added cost and complexity is warranted, on such a critical bit of hardware.