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Best way to remove Tin?

Land Shark

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Hello all,

Here is a comparison of July vs now ICP test results. Roughly 150% of the water has been gradually changed since the July test results came in as per Triton instructions. Actually, I changed out more water than was recommended just for safety.

Tin was 14 and is now 40. (Worse)
Nickel was 21 and is now 8. (Better)
Zinc was 514 and is now 50. (Better)
Lead was 11 and is now 0. (Big Improvement)

The Tin levels concern me since they are going in the wrong direction even after ample water changes. Is there a product that removes Tin?

9/2018
https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/60598/

6/2018
https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/60986/

My SPS aren't doing so well lately so any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 

[email protected]

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Let's get the obvious things out of the way first.

Any signs of corrosion? With there being Zinc and Nickel also present that would indicate that something is breaking down. All equipment should be checked, magnets, cabinet hinges, light brackets etc...

What salt did you use for your water changes?
 
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Land Shark

Land Shark

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Let's get the obvious things out of the way first.

Any signs of corrosion? With there being Zinc and Nickel also present that would indicate that something is breaking down. All equipment should be checked, magnets, cabinet hinges, light brackets etc...

What salt did you use for your water changes?
Hey Tim,

Thanks for the quick response. I have been using Red Sea Blue Bucket over the past 3 months ever since after my first ICP test results came back.

I'm using extruded aluminum to hold a light fixture in place over the tank. There are also screws used to mount the extruded aluminum in place. I called the company that I bought the extruded aluminum from and they said it's a 6105-T5 aluminum alloy containing elements such as copper, magnesium, iron, silicon or zinc. Could be a smoking gun? Here is a picture of the extruded aluminum. There is salt creep on the rail, not rust.
ICPfile-9.jpeg


I will also admit that I've also been using a sunscreen lotion that contains 17% zinc. I will be sure to discontinue putting my hands and arms in the tank unless necessary and even then, I'll be sure to clean my hands and arms thoroughly.

ICP2018-09-25_11-06-23.gif



ICP2018-09-25_10-39-22.gif


You mentioned hinges. Well, the hinges under the tank that hold the doors in place do have signs of salt corrosion. But let me ask you how trace amounts of metal get into the water? Is this something that really happens? I can replace them if you recommend it. What type of hinge should I replace them with?


In addition to the smoking guns, I wonder if I should get my rodi water ICP tested? I'm thinking that this would be a good idea but will follow your advice.
 
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miPapareef

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Cuprisorb takes care of SN quickly. Obviously you need to find the source but it will definately help the coral in the mean time.

I installed a UV light with flex hose and within a week coral stn and icp showed SN at 5.231 ug/l. No other problem detected. I added 20ml cuprisorb to my carbon reactor and changed weekly. 6 weeks later icp came back SN at 0.0. I did not do any water change and did not remove the flex hose. Cuprisorb also removed all Mo and V which were normal but went to 0.
 

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For the rusty hinges I have personal experience with this on my system. Think of it this way, everytime you open the door a fine dust is being created, that dust is attracted to the water surface like a magnet. It is then in your system.

I tested some of the actual dust from my hinges https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/19284/

As you can see there are a lot of metals and other elements present, depending on the composition of the hinges obviously this can vary.

I would recommend replacing the hinges and covering them with petroleum jelly/vaseline.

The aluminium strut should be ok, unless there is obvious corrosion happening, including the screws.
 
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Land Shark

Land Shark

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I’ll replace the hinges this week. What do you recommend to take out the Tin? I see the suggestions to use Cuprisorb and I appreciate them. If Detox is as effective and close in cost, I would stick with your product since you are providing support.
 
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Land Shark

Land Shark

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I had good luck using Cuprisorb. I did 3 20% water changes the first week and ran 100ml of Cuprisorb for ~2weeks. Tin is gone now (Aluminum also went to 0).
Thanks for sharing your experiences with Cuprisorb. What size is your tank?
 
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Land Shark

Land Shark

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Cuprisorb takes care of SN quickly. Obviously you need to find the source but it will definately help the coral in the mean time.

I installed a UV light with flex hose and within a week coral stn and icp showed SN at 5.231 ug/l. No other problem detected. I added 20ml cuprisorb to my carbon reactor and changed weekly. 6 weeks later icp came back SN at 0.0. I did not do any water change and did not remove the flex hose. Cuprisorb also removed all Mo and V which were normal but went to 0.
Hey miPapareef, Good to know your experiences as well. My ICP result is 40.00, which I think is as high as the ICP test can go. Looking at my corals, you can tell something is very wrong so I need to do something quick. 20ml isn't that much Cuprisorb so it must work very well. I'll be sure to follow up with another ICP test to see where everything is at including the Mo and V you mentioned.

What size is your tank?

Thanks!
 

miPapareef

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Hey miPapareef, Good to know your experiences as well. My ICP result is 40.00, which I think is as high as the ICP test can go. Looking at my corals, you can tell something is very wrong so I need to do something quick. 20ml isn't that much Cuprisorb so it must work very well. I'll be sure to follow up with another ICP test to see where everything is at including the Mo and V you mentioned.

What size is your tank?

Thanks!
My tank is 75 gallon and I used the recommendation on the cupeisorb for quantity.
 

miPapareef

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Here’s a link to direction on their website.

Now that I’m looking at the directions again it made me double checked. My notes in APEX say I used 50ml.

Directions
Use 250 mL for every 600 L (150 US gallons) to remove up to 7,500 mg (12 ppm) of copper. Use in filter media bag such as The Bag™. For best results, CupriSorb™ should be placed so as to maximize the flow of water through it. To remove undetectable substrate leaching copper keep CupriSorb™ in use for at least 2 weeks after copper tests report no copper. Use in a canister filter, chemical filtration module, box filter, or any high flow area of a trickle filter.
 

SneakyTortuga

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For the rusty hinges I have personal experience with this on my system. Think of it this way, everytime you open the door a fine dust is being created, that dust is attracted to the water surface like a magnet. It is then in your system.

I tested some of the actual dust from my hinges https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/19284/

As you can see there are a lot of metals and other elements present, depending on the composition of the hinges obviously this can vary.

I would recommend replacing the hinges and covering them with petroleum jelly/vaseline.

The aluminium strut should be ok, unless there is obvious corrosion happening, including the screws.
i didnt think of it this way. i had rusty hinges up to a few weeks ago and i had the same issue with heavy metals
 
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Land Shark

Land Shark

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For the rusty hinges I have personal experience with this on my system. Think of it this way, everytime you open the door a fine dust is being created, that dust is attracted to the water surface like a magnet. It is then in your system.

I tested some of the actual dust from my hinges https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/19284/

As you can see there are a lot of metals and other elements present, depending on the composition of the hinges obviously this can vary.

I would recommend replacing the hinges and covering them with petroleum jelly/vaseline.

The aluminium strut should be ok, unless there is obvious corrosion happening, including the screws.
I’m somewhat at a loss where these heavy metals are coming from because all plumbing is routed to an adjacent fish room. There is no sump or water of any kind inside the tank stand. It’s easy to replace hinges though so they are definitely being replaced. I’ll do the petroleum jelly trick as well.

I found an LFS that had Cuprisorb in stock this afternoon. Picked up 250ml, which was the only size they had. The directions say 250ml treats 150 gallons of water so I put it all into “The bag” as seachem calls it and placed the bag in a high flow area. This is a much larger dose than mipapareefer used. I’m hoping I don’t over do it.

I want to get an ICP test of my water before it passes through the rodi system. Curious what Hillsborough County FL is providing as drinking water.
 

jzw

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we had high tin near the beginning, and our triton test recommended water changes - we replaced our old mp60 wetsides (we had bought them used), and voila.
 

kodo28

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Just got my Triton ICP results and came to have Tin at 4.243 µg/l all the other values are ok. :confused:

I do not see anything on my tank that could explain such values of Tin.

System Reefer 750 is 1 year old, all material is also 1 year old (2 Mp40, 1 Jebao DCP8000, heater Schego Titanium) and no trace of corrosion in cabinet or sump.

Ro-DI water is coming at 0.00 on TDS.

upload_2018-11-13_22-50-16.png


@Land Shark , did you got good results with Cuprisorb removing Tin ?
 
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Land Shark

Land Shark

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Just got my Triton ICP results and came to have Tin at 4.243 µg/l all the other values are ok. :confused:

I do not see anything on my tank that could explain such values of Tin.

System Reefer 750 is 1 year old, all material is also 1 year old (2 Mp40, 1 Jebao DCP8000, heater Schego Titanium) and no trace of corrosion in cabinet or sump.

Ro-DI water is coming at 0.00 on TDS.

upload_2018-11-13_22-50-16.png


@Land Shark , did you got good results with Cuprisorb removing Tin ?
Judging from the STN I'm still experiencing, I still have a lot on TIN. Had my rodi tested and it tested out at 0.00 on tin. Its a bloody mystery.
 
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Land Shark

Land Shark

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Hello all,
I may have finally found the source of heavy metals. I just realized it this morning when I was cleaning my sump. I have a large filter sock that appears to have a metal, not plastic ring. The ring is soldered together and I've been using this filter sock for months. I assumed that the ring was a heavy duty plastic but I was wrong. The filter sock recently started showing rust stains. I hadn't even noticed that.

I bought the sock from dudadeisel.com. It is a 600 micron sock and isn't one that is typically used in an aquarium.

According to reference. com, solder alloys are made from a mixture of tin, lead, brass and silver. Solder made from tin and lead has a lower melting point, while brass and silver are used to create an alloy able to withstand higher temperatures. This metal ring hidden inside the cloth liner is making the cloth rusty right at the point where the ring is soldered together.

Wikipedia states "solder should also be resistant to oxidative and corrosive effects that would degrade the joint over time."


file-16.jpeg
file3-2.jpeg
 

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