Best way to remove Tin?

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Makers Marc

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Can i leave the cuprisorb media bags inside a filter sock? The tumble is hard, so wondering if its possible to be too rough causing the cuprisorb grind down?

Also, how long should I leave it there before it should absorb 16 micrograms of tin, based on Triton test?
 

marlinmon

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Can i leave the cuprisorb media bags inside a filter sock? The tumble is hard, so wondering if its possible to be too rough causing the cuprisorb grind down?

Also, how long should I leave it there before it should absorb 16 micrograms of tin, based on Triton test?
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marlinmon

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I also have high Tin - 37ppm according to Triton. Still have not located the source.
 

Makers Marc

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Yes. I bought the product so had that information already.

The extent and duration of the prescribed "hard flow area" was what I was concerned about.

But 3 wks later and the media hasnt disintegrated much, sitting inside a stocking placed in a felt filter sock..., so there is the answer if anyone looks this thred up.
 

marlinmon

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Not every measurement is mg/L. Look again.
Yep ppb, you're right. Still very high by the looks of it. Started the Cuprisorb tonight. There's also a smidgen of aluminum in the test. Guess my source could be some Al-Sn alloy? I don't know of any alloys like that though.
 

Makers Marc

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Water changes are Tim's recommendation. If the source is removed, that works.
Landshark,

So did you just do water changes or did you just try Curpisorb? I'd love to hear your conclusions considering you were so active during the battle.
 

Grabble

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To those suffering from tin specifically, is your display tank glass new? New float glass, especially optiwhite, has the potential to initially leach tin from the manufacturing process back to the tank water. On the upside it should have normalised after 6 months or sooner.
 

K7BMG

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According to CupriSorb.
Directions say the material will turn black as it extracts heavy metals. I think this only refers to Copper, but don't have the facts on that.
I have had my CupriSorb in place for several weeks now and there has been little color change, other than its a bit darker shade of tan, but not blue/black in any way.

NOTE:
CupriSorb to my knowledge is not listed to remove tin, it's an assumption on our part, or at least the product has not been tested by SeaChem on tin.

This is directly off of SeaChems website in the FAQ for CupriSorb. Link here --> https://www.seachem.com/cuprisorb.php

The question I am referencing asks
Quote.
"Will CupriSorb™ effectively remove metals other than copper? I'm looking for a medium (preferably renewable) that will remove or at least significantly reduce all metals in my tap water."

SeaChems response
Quote.
" It will also remove nickel, zinc, cobalt, cadmium, manganese. it may remove other heavy metals but we have no data for any others."
 

Makers Marc

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Ive posted this numerous times, in various posts over the past month to save others time.

Curpisorb did NOT reduce my tin level. I checked Triton ICP before and after 2 wks of aggressive usage.

Curpisorb did nothing. Do not expect it to change color either. I lived it and talked to Seachem directly about it.
 

K7BMG

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Ive posted this numerous times, in various posts over the past month to save others time.

Curpisorb did NOT reduce my tin level. I checked Triton ICP before and after 2 wks of aggressive usage.

Curpisorb did nothing. Do not expect it to change color either. I lived it and talked to Seachem directly about it.


My gut without any facts also feels the Triton-ICP testing is only so good, its margin of error on certain elements is especially high.
The little I have researched on this leads me to come to this conclusion.

Tin is the number one issue and I don't know if that truly has an effect on our livestock.
I can't say anything with fact here as I do not have corals in my tank yet.

Just like the fact they boast no water changes but in reality most everyone gets the results back with recommendations of more water changes than one would almost do in the first place. I have to assume that this is the case for the starting of the system, and once established the WC recommendations will subside.
That said even though I decided to go with the Triton method, I still planed to follow a weekly WC regimen.
 

Reefahholic

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Unbelievable!

Hello all,
I may have finally found the source of heavy metals. I just realized it this morning when I was cleaning my sump. I have a large filter sock that appears to have a metal, not plastic ring. The ring is soldered together and I've been using this filter sock for months. I assumed that the ring was a heavy duty plastic but I was wrong. The filter sock recently started showing rust stains. I hadn't even noticed that.

I bought the sock from dudadeisel.com. It is a 600 micron sock and isn't one that is typically used in an aquarium.

According to reference. com, solder alloys are made from a mixture of tin, lead, brass and silver. Solder made from tin and lead has a lower melting point, while brass and silver are used to create an alloy able to withstand higher temperatures. This metal ring hidden inside the cloth liner is making the cloth rusty right at the point where the ring is soldered together.

Wikipedia states "solder should also be resistant to oxidative and corrosive effects that would degrade the joint over time."


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daelie

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Great to know! What’s your total water volume and how much do you use. Are you running in a reactor or mesh bag?

Reefer 250. I passively run about 2 TBSP in a mesh bag I just throw in the sump with some carbon whenever I think about replacing it. I don't really think anything will make it change color except copper so if it's absorbing other things, I just try to change it every few months to keep it relatively fresh and then regen it once before tossing it.
 
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