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This is the platform I plan on using for my Clear Water CW-200 algae scrubber. I will have to order some more 1 in blue pvc to finish it.

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I got the black egg crate from @Bulk Reef Supply, the only place I personally know that I can get it from, and the fittings from Amazon.
 
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I officially started to drain all the salt water from my 120 gal tank today. I will fill it up with tap water and add citric acid to it to help clean it. Unfortunately, probably due to the weather, I didn’t receive the big batch of citric acid from BRS this week, but hey, you can’t control the weather. I will still fill it up with tap water beforehand.

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I love brs but.....Amazon has the deal on citric acid.
 

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Just installed the Wye check valves. I didn’t really need to put unions on either side of the valves, as the check valve has a union itself to clean the plunger, what if I didn’t then I would need one. ;)
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I installed the check valves on the sides and not at my sump to help clean up the sump area. Plus, I would have had to cram them in a tight area as I will have 2 return pumps. Trying to get the check valves in such a small area would have been a pain in the buttocks.

OH!!! Did you notice that I made sure to have at least 5" of PVC before the Apex flow sensors? It is recommended to have at least 5" of straight pipe to make sure the sensors have a clean flow of water. Turbulent water can mess up the readings of the sensors.
Nice and clean. Now hurry up and get water in this bad boy!
 

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This is the platform I plan on using for my Clear Water CW-200 algae scrubber. I will have to order some more 1 in blue pvc to finish it.

19AD9371-8C04-48C0-930A-ADF1872029C1.jpeg
9C6B0AA9-854C-4E38-B13F-B0720E24165C.jpeg



I got the black egg crate from @Bulk Reef Supply, the only place I personally know that I can get it from, and the fittings from Amazon.

i was thinking sweet frag rack! lol
 
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Man, taking apart the old tank makes me realize that I need to clean it more, LOL!!! ;Hilarious

Old tank is ready to come out, just need to get some help to remove it. Thankfully it only takes 2 people to move it.
 
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When it comes to my Apex system and such, I will un-install everything and start from scratch. This tank and the layout will be totally different, and as a result, the way I run my cabling for the Apex system will be different. I pretty much have everything, minus my mixing station, shut down. I will need to keep my mixing station online as I need it to mix the water for my new tank. After I fill my new tank I will also shut it down temporarily to reroute any cabling.
 
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As it’s my nature, I can’t stand still on the build. Below I posted a picture of some ball valves that I will use for my algae scrubber and my carbon reactor. The left ball valve will be for the algae scrubber and the right will be for the carbon reactor. I am sure someone will wonder why did I use a 1 in ball valve on the scrubber and a 1/2 in ball valve on the carbon reactor. It is because of the flow rates and the sizing of the flow meters from Apex. The algae scrubber needs a flow of roughly 400 gals per hour while the carbon reactor is roughly 200 gals per hour. I can use a 1/2 in flow meter on the carbon reactor, but I can’t on the scrubber, thus the different size ball valves.

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THIS IS WHERE, I will always stress, think about the accessibility and functionality off your plumbing before you cut and glue. Look at the layout, AND, try and think if you will need to get to any area beforehand. It will help you out down the road. ;) ;Facepalm;)
 
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K, the drains are done and I am mostly done with the returns and some piping for the algae scrubber and carbon reactor. I don’t need to fully have them done as I can just turn off the ball valve to them.

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I was hoping to have all the plumbing done today, but when I added the algae scrubber into the fix, it caused me rethink my plumbing. I was going to run the carbon reactor off of one return and the algae scrubber off the other, but thankfully I installed the platform and algae scrubber...I used some sch 80 pvc to hold of platform, it will be blue pvc as well...I found that I had no room and I would have to over complicate the plumbing to maybe make it work. So I will just run both, the carbon reactor and algae scrubber, off of one return pump. Pics are below, hopefully you will get some idea of what I am planning. I will install another tee just after the left return turns to the left. Then I will install a short piece of pvc to extend it and 90 it upward. I am doing this so the plumbing will run just inside of the steel stand structure. After the 90 I will install a ball valve and then run it up to the top and 90 over to the scrubber. This run is where I will install the flow sensor. Also, I am trying to brace every piece of plumbing I can to keep the unions from leaking. I will epoxy some wood on the top of the inside of the stand, that way it will give me a little more wood to screw supports in for the pvc that will run along the ceiling.

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Below is my plan. I will install the ball valve at the rectangle, the flow sensor at the oval, then I will step it down to 1/2" and install the hand valve at the circle. The grey rectangles is where I will fasten it to the piece of wood I will epoxy to the ceiling.

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:cool:fancy smancy work there;)going to be pretty inside and out!!! "we need a two thumbs up emoji";):cool::cool:;Happy
 
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I was able to get the plumbing done enough so that I can fill it with water when I get it moved. I can finish the plumbing to the carbon reactor and algae scrubber down the road if needed.

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You can call it over building, to much, whatever, but I call it security. I built another platform to add to the other side of the back of the stand today to secure the return plumbing. Whenever you have a long run with check valves and flow sensors it will become flimsy. The length of the pvc pipe and the weight of the check valve and flow sensor will added to the instability. I added the platform so I can secure the plumbing. IME, unions don’t usually leak without some type of outside influence, meaning vibration. When secured properly, they should almost never leak or even have salt creep. ;)
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After I paint it black you will never know it’s there. I already installed something similar on the other side. I will install the clamps in a little bit, but they will screw into the platform, thus securing the long return line run.
 
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You can call it over building, to much, whatever, but I call it security. I built another platform to add to the other side of the back of the stand today to secure the return plumbing. Whenever you have a long run with check valves and flow sensors it will become flimsy. The length of the pvc pipe and the weight of the check valve and flow sensor will added to the instability. I added the platform so I can secure the plumbing. IME, unions don’t usually leak without some type of outside influence, meaning vibration. When secured properly, they should almost never leak or even have salt creep. ;)
2C895222-E43F-4F6F-80D8-E0AF1106A916.jpeg
689DB6C1-D2B1-4BA3-8A80-942092BC17D5.jpeg

After I paint it black you will never know it’s there. I already installed something similar on the other side. I will install the clamps in a little bit, but they will screw into the platform, thus securing the long return line run.
Great idea! I'm impressed with your patience, before adding water. It's been weeks!

I was wondering how did you secure the wood to the steel stand or is it secured to the wood wrap? I saw on an earlier post you had mentioned epoxy. I needed to secure some wood high in my own stand to help me mount a fan for some evaporative cooling and considering different ideas.
 
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Great idea! I'm impressed with your patience, before adding water. It's been weeks!

I was wondering how did you secure the wood to the steel stand or is it secured to the wood wrap? I saw on an earlier post you had mentioned epoxy. I needed to secure some wood high in my own stand to help me mount a fan for some evaporative cooling and considering different ideas.
The 2 additions that will support the return lines will be screwed into the wood wrap. I will epoxy 2 pieces of wood into the ceiling for support of the lines for the scrubber and reactor and add a couple short screws. I will likely install those tomorrow. I want the tank to be ready to add water by the end of this weekend. I still need to move the tank into its final position, but I want all the plumbing and fasteners done before hand. That way I can tear down the plumbing and at least get it ready to move. I am hoping to have it wet in 3 weeks. I would like it done sooner, but I am handicapped by having enough people to move it.
 
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funny when they say move what!!!:oops::rolleyes:..hope you can lasso a few good men to get tank moved..:cool:
looking slick there ,all that fancy plumbing..;Woot;Woot:)
 
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Sorry, no photos of the plumbing today. I did install the pieces of wood that I said I would to support the line sets for the scrubber and carbon reactor with epoxy and screws. I also glued together the section for the algae scrubber and will install it either tomorrow or the next day. I painted the section of wood that I built to support the return lines. I just used standard 2-part epoxy.

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I looked at it today, after doing these things, I realized that it is getting close, THANKFULLY, LOL!!!
 
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I tore down my second Neptune Cor20 for cleaning today. It was very simple to tear down and clean. Thankfully their wasn’t any coraline algae or Vermited snails, so I was just able to use RO/DI water and a few brushes. It was full of detritus though.

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Mastering the art of locking and unlocking water pathways: What type of valves do you have on your aquarium plumbing?

  • Ball valves.

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  • Gate valves.

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  • Check valves.

    Votes: 35 25.2%
  • None.

    Votes: 31 22.3%
  • Other.

    Votes: 9 6.5%
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