Bills CDA 225 gal 72x30x24 tank upgrade/SPS Dream Tank!!!

[Caseyoidae]

Looking awesome!

 

[Billldg]

I am thinking about editing the scape a little, but it will open up the tunnel to the right big time while giving me more space to add corals, and it will give me the area I want to have a LPS section as well on the right side, aka, island, well kinda. Let me know what you think.

I would remove the section in light blue.

I order to remove the section above in light blue I would have to put a support in, marked in red.

Then I could put a small, thin bridge in, thus giving me more room for frags, and at the same time open up the tunnel even more.

What do you think?

I also included a pic on the tunnel on the right side so you know what I thinking of doing.

 

[fishguy242]

great idea!! i would not of ever thought about that;Hilarious;Hilarious;Hilarious;Hilarious

 

[Billldg]

great idea!! i would not of ever thought about that;Hilarious;Hilarious;Hilarious;Hilarious

Almost sound like you thought of it before me, LOL!!!

If so, then I apologize as can be a little thick headed.

 

[fishguy242]

would just leave too much open air space to top without

 

[Billldg]

In a nut shell, I plan on removing the light blue, keeping the red, and adding the dark blue.

 

[fishguy242]

little taller/wider around island/sloping mountain ,with thinner bridge is what i'm picturing

 

[Billldg]

little taller/wider around island/sloping mountain ,with thinner bridge is what i'm picturing

The flat section will rise up a little, but I don't it to conflict with the left side. I will have to break some rock up and mess around with it a little.

Before I do anything, I will need to cement the flat section together, as its a few pieces. In order to do as I want I will need the flat section to be one piece.

 

[fishguy242]

or suspended plateau. over area in bridge area ,if going higher

 

[Billldg]

The 4 red x's need to be cemented before I can go any further. I have thought about doing a overhang, marked in blue. It will not attach to the rock on the far right, but will reach close to it. I plan on raising the platform in red x's, but not a lot.

 

[ScottR]

Looks good! I typically like to make more caves for fish to hide and swim through, also to help water flow you’re looking good.

 

[ScottR]

I know you mentioned adding live rock in before. Will any live rock join the party? You could always sump it.

 

[Billldg]

I know you mentioned adding live rock in before. Will any live rock join the party? You could always sump it.

I will put roughly 40 pounds in the sump and roughly 10 pounds in the tank to help speed up the transmission of the bacteria to the dry rock.

 

[Billldg]

Yesterday I sent a e-mail to Zoya from CDA telling her I wanted to add 2 1 in holes on either side to allow plugs for flow pumps to pass thru the eurobracing. I have been thinking about it for a while, and have come to the conclusion that I just love the way my Gyre 350 moves the water. I will add a 2nd 350 pump and have them on either side. I will also use MP40's, but I will use the Gyre's to move most of the water. I wanted the biggest quantity of water moved as gently as possible, and the Gyre does that perfectly. The only downside to a Gyre is the maintenance, as you have to clean the pump heads every 2 to 3 weeks to keep the flow up. If, down the road, I remove the Gyres I can always plug the holes. Originally I asked to have the holes on the left and right side eurobracing, but then I thought, and changed it to the backside left and right corners of the eurobracing.

 

[Reef370]

It would be awesome to have both.. I love it in mine.

I only wish I had did sides and back to mine. My gyres run up and around the Eurobrace as I don’t have side holes. Still not to bad, but would of been a lot nicer to run straight up. I could run them to the back holes but that’s more wire in the tank.

 

[Billldg]

It would be awesome to have both.. I love it in mine.

I only wish I had did sides and back to mine. My gyres run up and around the Eurobrace as I don’t have side holes. Still not to bad, but would of been a lot nicer to run straight up. I could run them to the back holes but that’s more wire in the tank.

Originally I had asked for holes dead center of the eurobracing, but then I thought, I will end of seeing more wiring on the the top side of the bracing, thus messing up the clean look, so I choose the back corners. Originally I was going strictly with MP40's to keep the wires and motors out of the tank, but I can not deny the fact that my Gyre 350 moves a ton of water gently. I have, since getting the Gyre, hated the way any single head pump moves water. It's to pinpointed, to focused, unlike a Gyre. I plan on having a bunch of wrasses, so I will need a top to keep them from jumping out, and I want the top to sit flush to the tank so I don't see it, thus the holes for the wires to run out of. I will go with 2 Gyre 350's and at least 2 MP40's. If I decide to change to all MP40's or MP60's down the road, I just simply have to install some plugs in the holes.

 

[Reef370]

Originally I had asked for holes dead center of the eurobracing, but then I thought, I will end of seeing more wiring on the the top side of the bracing, thus messing up the clean look, so I choose the back corners. Originally I was going strictly with MP40's to keep the wires and motors out of the tank, but I can not deny the fact that my Gyre 350 moves a ton of water gently. I have, since getting the Gyre, hated the way any single head pump moves water. It's to ;pinpointed, to focused, unlike a Gyre. I plan on having a bunch of wrasses, so I will need a top to keep them from jumping out, and I want the top to sit flush to the tank so I don't see it, thus the holes for the wires to run out of. IO will go with 2 Gyre 350's and at least 2 MP40's. If I decide to change to all MP40's or MP60's down the road, I just simply have to install some plugs in the holes.

I see what your saying... the way CDA made my tank there is a lip that runs the whole tank were you could sit the lid in there and still have everything else flush..

 

[Tom Stevens]

Originally I had asked for holes dead center of the eurobracing, but then I thought, I will end of seeing more wiring on the the top side of the bracing, thus messing up the clean look, so I choose the back corners. Originally I was going strictly with MP40's to keep the wires and motors out of the tank, but I can not deny the fact that my Gyre 350 moves a ton of water gently. I have, since getting the Gyre, hated the way any single head pump moves water. It's to pinpointed, to focused, unlike a Gyre. I plan on having a bunch of wrasses, so I will need a top to keep them from jumping out, and I want the top to sit flush to the tank so I don't see it, thus the holes for the wires to run out of. I will go with 2 Gyre 350's and at least 2 MP40's. If I decide to change to all MP40's or MP60's down the road, I just simply have to install some plugs in the holes.

Here is a pic of where they put the holes in my tank.

 

[fishguy242]

got it ,still playing w rocks?? how's it going? thought i got bumped off ,been quiet few days

 

[Billldg]

I plan on starting to concrete my aquascape this weekend. I just received a 2nd container of Marco cement as I plan on using a bunch of it. I need to fasten the scape so I can finish it.

They should have started to build my tank this week, so hopefully I will hear something on the tank within the next few weeks.