Operator Wrasse

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I take a guesstament, and use that to add RO/DI water to my ATO. I add 2 gals daily to my ATO based on what I see my tank evaporate daily. I have to periodically add more water to the ATO thru Mobius, but, its not common. I will eventually add photo sensors to my ATO to monitor it more closely, but, found the other way almost as easy.

As far as the head pressure of the Versa, I have 2 installed in the basement, 1 floor below and have to pump it up a floor and thru, roughly 50-60 ft of 1/4 tubing. I have the RO/DI and AWC Supply Versa's in the basement.
That's what I had planned as well. Seems like a safe way to set it up. Can you connect the Versa to run with a photosensor with the Apex or Profilux? Like have the Versa always run when it's given power, then only give the pump power when you need to fill the ATO?

Also, how strong is a float valve? I've never installed one and I know they're one of the most reliable safeties, but how much pressure can they block? If you automate your ATO, I would assume you would need to install one in your ATO in case the Versa accidentally got stuck on.
 
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Going on a week after I had a 3 day blackout and I am liking what I am seeing. I may be seeing an end to the Dino's. I have done blackouts before, and usually, after a week it was back to 75 percent of what it was before the blackout. Today, a week later, I am only seeing a little bit of Dino's, and the algae that accompanies it, but, no where near as bad. I am seeing the Cyano come back, but, that's ok as I can get rid of it easily. I am also doing a 8 gal daily water change to help lower my N03 and P04. HOPEFULLY, its time to take back my tank...LOL!!!
 
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AHHH!!! I am curious as to WHY I just received a email saying that BRS just got back in the Neptune SKY light. I never signed up to be notified. I will leave you to your own conclusion and reaction. I know mine and its kinda what I was not hoping for.

Personally, I couldn't care less about the Neptune SKY, I would like for @Bulk Reef Supply to BUY HANNA and get the 782-25 Nitrate HR reagent out to us reefers. ;)
 
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i got one yesterday,have not ordered in months...;)
i was going to with the "10$" promo ,but never did...:rolleyes:
 
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That's what I had planned as well. Seems like a safe way to set it up. Can you connect the Versa to run with a photosensor with the Apex or Profilux? Like have the Versa always run when it's given power, then only give the pump power when you need to fill the ATO?

Also, how strong is a float valve? I've never installed one and I know they're one of the most reliable safeties, but how much pressure can they block? If you automate your ATO, I would assume you would need to install one in your ATO in case the Versa accidentally got stuck on.
Unfortunately, I am aware of any way to control the Versa via photo sensor directly yet. If you are willing to do it the same way I am willing, then yes, but not sure of any other. I will add a photo sensor to my ATO thru my GHL P4 and turn on and off the Versa based on the reaction of the photo cell. Its not full proof, but, I feel it will get me close enough to see any issues within a week or so. The reason I say it like this is that the Versa's only run when programmed to, meaning a time and volume givin in the same time. A day or so will not mean nothing if a ATO is used as the Versa will have some time to add some liquid to the tank before its an issue, and you will see any issues if they arise well beforehand. I never want to be truly off hands of my tank as I feel it will disconnect me from what is actually happening in my tank. ;)
 
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Speaking of Versa's, I noticed, since I turned back on my AWC to help deal with the high nutrients, that my salinity was getting off. I calibrated my Versa's figuring that was the reason, and they were off. I have only calibrated them when I installed them and haven't done it since. You need to calibrate them monthly for the first several months until they break in or you see that they are stable. Not a big deal, took my a couple minutes to calibrate both of them.

They weren't off by much, one was -2 ml, and the other was +5 ml.
 
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I just pulled a 3rd baby Trochus snail out of my sump. I am surprised that they are breeding in my tank already. The ones that are breeding are 2nd generation Trochus snails that were originally born in my 120 gal tank. They are now hitting maturity and breeding some, though I didn't see it. I am hoping they will continue to breed as they are far hardier than most you get from suppliers.

My Blue/Green Chromis continue to spawn, though its pointless...LOL!!! They constantly lay eggs in the exact same spot every time.
 
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As much as I grief as I have given @Bulk Reef Supply lately, including the Preferred reefer thread, I will always say their videos and how to's are second to none. I have been following the Dino videos they had, though I wish it was much longer, and I am finally seeing an end to the issue. It took me a few months, BUT, Ryan of BRS said it would in the video.
 

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As much as I grief as I have given @Bulk Reef Supply lately, including the Preferred reefer thread, I will always say their videos and how to's are second to none. I have been following the Dino videos they had, though I wish it was much longer, and I am finally seeing an end to the issue. It took me a few months, BUT, Ryan of BRS said it would in the video.
I'm glad they split the channel into investigations and product advertisement. I think with the mergers, Ryan's move and 360 takedown, and all the new people helping with videos, they were too overwhelmed to do anything with the investigates series. I'm glad to see they're back to it. Even if I can't entirely trust their advertisements for products, they genuinely seem to care when it comes to learning and sharing their passion. That's why BRS still has a good chunk of my business.
 
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I am in the process of doing my own honey do list...LOL...on my DT and when I went to blow off the scape to deal with the Dino's, NOTHING!!! When I say nothing, ITs a BLESSING, meanign nothing blew off the scape. What is attached is actual algae and not algae with Dino's. Anyone who has dealt with, and blew off their scape will understand that the Dino algae will simply blow off the scape. This is a plus, MEANING, I am not delusional when I think I am winning the fight against Dino's!!! :eek: :eek: :eek:

I will likely do another black out, in a few weeks, to cement the win, but, I will also continue dosing high amounts of Vibrant and MicroFacor7 until then. After that I will add 20 or so pounds of KP Aquatics live rock to the sump to help seed the tank again.

 

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Good to hear the battle with Dino's is going well Bill. I have a similar sized tank (standard 220). I decided to run GFO for a bit to see if it helps keep my glass cleaner, 2 weeks later I have Dino's popping up on the sand, not terrible but definitely there. I pulled the GFO today, tested Phosphate and measured 0 on the Hannah Phosphorus checker. Dosed a half dose of Brightwell NeoPhos, we'll see how it goes after another week, hopefully I don't have a battle like you did.

Side note, I lurk a lot more than I post and have enjoyed following this thread as well as the GHL tread. I'm all in with Neptune at this point and I'm sure my wife would kill me if I said I was going to change that, but I am enjoying the honest comparison between the two.
 
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Right now I have my Ecotech Versa's doing a 8 gpd water change. You can here them at that rate. I have them doing 8 gals over a 3.5 hour span I believe. I will have to wait to see the exact ml/pm as its in the middle of the process of doing the AWC. I am working the heck out of them right now...LOL...BUT, they are keeping up with no problem. I will likely calibrate them again this weekend. I calibrated them 1.5 weeks ago, and then, I change the AWC from 2 gals daily to 8 gals daily.
 
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Good to hear the battle with Dino's is going well Bill. I have a similar sized tank (standard 220). I decided to run GFO for a bit to see if it helps keep my glass cleaner, 2 weeks later I have Dino's popping up on the sand, not terrible but definitely there. I pulled the GFO today, tested Phosphate and measured 0 on the Hannah Phosphorus checker. Dosed a half dose of Brightwell NeoPhos, we'll see how it goes after another week, hopefully I don't have a battle like you did.

Side note, I lurk a lot more than I post and have enjoyed following this thread as well as the GHL tread. I'm all in with Neptune at this point and I'm sure my wife would kill me if I said I was going to change that, but I am enjoying the honest comparison between the two.
I agree totally, I HOPE you don't have the issue with Dino's that I do. LOVE the wife analogy...LOL!!! Trust me when I say that if I was married, I would have been divorced on the tank upgrade... ;Hilarious ;Hilarious ;Hilarious , let alone doing a total controller change over...LOL!!!

Please look at what I have done so far and scale it back to defeat the Dino's. A simple 3 day black out may help you.

Curious as to how much NeoPhos you dosed. I was dosing 70 ml daily, and it took a few weeks, along with feeding extremely heavy, and finally adding a load to the tank, meaning several tangs, before I seen a rise to .23 using a Hanna ULR P04 checker. What is you N03 at? I was hitting the very bad DOUBLE 0!!!

In your case, it may not be as bad to raise the P04, BUT, remember that unless you dump the whole bottle, you overdosing is highly unlikely. I would add a full dose, as per Brightwells instructions, and test from there.
 
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In the middle of doing the cleaning maintenance of the tank. I blew off the scape and didn't see to many Dino's, so I am hopefully winning the battle. My tank is overrun with Cyano right now, but, I am not sure if I want to combat that right now or not. I am letting the Cyano overrun my tank to smother out any Dino's on the sand bed. The Cyano is starting to get a little to crazy, so I am debating to start to combat it though. The plus is that I am seeing roughly 10 percent of the Dino's that I was seeing before starting the battle.
 
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Full tank shot, as if right now. You will see the Cyano. I am debating whether or not to start to deal with it.

20210918_151551.jpg


20210918_151444.jpg
 
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I will likely start to combat the Cyano tonight, BUT, I will need the AWC to finish first. It will likely take 2 rounds of Chemiclean to deal with this, but, it just depends on the Dino's and seeing if after I deal with the Cyano do they take hold again.
 

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Ah yes... the dreaded cyano mat. I dealt with the same thing in my wife's 20G drop off. It was miserable. Could you try a manual removal of the mat and a blackout instead of going the medical route? I'm afraid of what chemiclean could do to your SPS. At least the mat isn't growing over your corals, yet.

I personally believe that most dinos absorb NO3 and PO4 so fast that it makes nutrients appear to be zero. When you beat the dinos, all those nutrients escaped and fed the cyano. If you now remove the cyano, which is like a nutrient sink, you could be in the clear. Just keep your turf scrubber running during the blackout to outcompete anything in the display.
 
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Ah yes... the dreaded cyano mat. I dealt with the same thing in my wife's 20G drop off. It was miserable. Could you try a manual removal of the mat and a blackout instead of going the medical route? I'm afraid of what chemiclean could do to your SPS. At least the mat isn't growing over your corals, yet.

I personally believe that most dinos absorb NO3 and PO4 so fast that it makes nutrients appear to be zero. When you beat the dinos, all those nutrients escaped and fed the cyano. If you now remove the cyano, which is like a nutrient sink, you could be in the clear. Just keep your turf scrubber running during the blackout to outcompete anything in the display.
That's the catch, when do I deal with the Cyano vs the Dino's. I have nothing but some high end blastos in my tank currently, so the Chemiclean is not an issue. I have never had any issue with using Chemiclean when I did have SPS in my previous tank. I am trying to decide when its appropriate to fight the Cyano. Dino's are far harder to fight, and so, I would rather smother my tank in Cyano and get rid of the Dino's. At some point I will have to fight the Cyano so I can move forward with my tank. I just tested my N03 and P04, and if the N03 tested high, I was going to do a massive water change, BUT, thankfully the P04 test at .05 and the N03 tested at 64.6 ppm. That's still high, BUT, I was pegging out a Hanna N03 HR checker at 75+, so doing the 8 gal a day water change and dropping the frozen food feeding from 5 to 4 cubes daily is working.

I just dosed 50ml of NeoPhos to raise the P04. Some may ask why, WELL, the N03 and P04 rise and fall in conjunction to each other. When their is no more Phosphate, the Nitrate can not lower any more. ;)
 
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Operator Wrasse

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That's the catch, when do I deal with the Cyano vs the Dino's. I have nothing but some high end blastos in my tank currently, so the Chemiclean is not an issue. I have never had any issue with using Chemiclean when I did have SPS in my previous tank. I am trying to decide when its appropriate to fight the Cyano. Dino's are far harder to fight, and so, I would rather smother my tank in Cyano and get rid of the Dino's. At some point I will have to fight the Cyano so I can move forward with my tank. I just tested my N03 and P04, and if the N03 tested high, I was going to do a massive water change, BUT, thankfully the P04 test at .05 and the N03 tested at 64.6 ppm. That's still high, BUT, I was pegging out a Hanna N03 HR checker at 75+, so doing the 8 gal a day water change and dropping the frozen food feeding from 5 to 4 cubes daily is working.

I just dosed 50ml of NeoPhos to raise the P04. Some may ask why, WELL, the N03 and P04 rise and fall in conjunction to each other. When their is no more Phosphate, the Nitrate can not lower any more. ;)
I thought you had more coral in this tank! I still say remove what cyano you can, then hit it with the Chemiclean and blackout.

I've ran chemiclean in my softie tank twice when my nutrients got out of wack. It was very successful, but only when I got my nutrients normalized immediately after. After the treatment, I tried doing a large water change to remove particulates, but it didn't do much. It was great for knocking down my nutrients though.

Does your skimmer have a drain line? What I found was easiest was to let the skimmer overflow into a 5 gallon bucket for an hour or two. I also discovered that skimmate has an almost identical specific gravity as your tank water, so I immediately would replace the skimmate with fresh saltwater. I had a medicine free-ish tank in 3 hours after the treatment was complete.
 

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