Bills Reborn 120 gal Mixed Reef Tank

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Billldg

Billldg

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Nice build @Billldg. I’ve found that live rock does really help to keep SPS heathy. I’ve had issues with dry starts as well. And hey, it happens. Hope your tank has settled in.
This tank is within a few months of being torn down to make room for my upgrade. I learned as some have that the old ways are still better, aka, live rock. I love the look of certain types of rock, but, live rock is the way to go for tanks that plan on having corals.
 

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This tank is within a few months of being torn down to make room for my upgrade. I learned as some have that the old ways are still better, aka, live rock. I love the look of certain types of rock, but, live rock is the way to go for tanks that plan on having corals.
I completely agree on going with live rock. But I do think dry rock scapes are so much prettier. Perhaps a half/half is the way to go.
 

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I completely agree on going with live rock. But I do think dry rock scapes are so much prettier. Perhaps a half/half is the way to go.
send him to the new build,Bill ;)
 
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Billldg

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I completely agree on going with live rock. But I do think dry rock scapes are so much prettier. Perhaps a half/half is the way to go.
My upgrade tank will have both. I have, roughly 150 pounds or so of Marco Shelf rock in the new tank scape, and plan on adding 50 plus pounds of KP Aquatics live rock in the tank and sump.
 

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My upgrade tank will have both. I have, roughly 150 pounds or so of Marco Shelf rock in the new tank scape, and plan on adding 50 plus pounds of KP Aquatics live rock in the tank and sump.
How big are you going? Any info on your new system?
 
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Billldg

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powers2001

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I finally hooked up the solenoid that @rkpetersen recommended to control my ph. I added a C02 scrubber to my skimmer a while back and wanted to control the PH, so I controlled my skimmer with the PH probe, problem was that it would only run half the day. So I added a solenoid t in between the line going from the muffler on the skimmer and the C02 reactor and use my apex to control the solenoid. The air will go thru the solenoid versus the reactor because it will take the path of least resistance. @rkpetersen must have been reading my mind because the reason it was recommended was because of the fact that I didn't want to constantly have to energize a solenoid for it to work, it will get hot and eventually burn out quickly. This solenoid has a limit switch in it and thus when it is fully closed it will turn power off to the solenoid. this is a down and dirty install as I will be rerouting the plumbing for it when I install my new Trident when it shows up.

20190928_164128.jpg
@Billldg I have a question about the motorized ball valve @rkpetersen recommended that you use. So it cuts off power after turned fully closed or fully open? Just uses power when the valve motor goes from fully open to fully closed or vise versa and then the power is shut off automatically after a certain amount of time? And you have it connected to your Apex?
 
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Billldg

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@Billldg I have a question about the motorized ball valve @rkpetersen recommended that you use. So it cuts off power after turned fully closed or fully open? Just uses power when the valve motor goes from fully open to fully closed or vise versa and then the power is shut off automatically after a certain amount of time? And you have it connected to your Apex?
I have it hooked up to an outlet on my Apex, and have it programmed to power on when PH drops below 8.1. At 8.1 it closes the solenoid. The power is applied to close it, and when it closes it hits a limit switch in the solenoid, thus turning power off on the solenoid. Most solenoids you have to keep power on to keep closed or opened depending on the application and thus you burn out the solenoid.

Fallback OFF
If pH > 8.21 Then OFF
If pH < 8.10 Then ON
Defer 000:15 Then OFF
 

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ummm...did i miss the final scape ?? or you holding out on us ;) :cool:
 

powers2001

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I have it hooked up to an outlet on my Apex, and have it programmed to power on when PH drops below 8.1. At 8.1 it closes the solenoid. The power is applied to close it, and when it closes it hits a limit switch in the solenoid, thus turning power off on the solenoid. Most solenoids you have to keep power on to keep closed or opened depending on the application and thus you burn out the solenoid.

Fallback OFF
If pH > 8.21 Then OFF
If pH < 8.10 Then ON
Defer 000:15 Then OFF
@Billldg I’m a little confused. You mentioned powering on to close it, then it cuts off power. To open you just power it up again, then it cuts off power once more?
 
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Billldg

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@Billldg I’m a little confused. You mentioned powering on to close it, then it cuts off power. To open you just power it up again, then it cuts off power once more?
The built in limit switch on the solenoid is what kills the power, the outlet in the Apex stays on, when you turn the outlet off on the Apex the solenoid will return to its normally open state. The limit switch part is complicating things. To close you apply power, to close you remove power. This is a motorized solenoid, unlike a Apex solenoid which is a magnetic.
 
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Billldg

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ummm...did i miss the final scape ?? or you holding out on us ;) :cool:
I am pretty much done with it, with a few tweaks of course. I am at the point where I will need to tear it down further to secure it.
 
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I am setting up a 40b, which signifies the end of this tank. :( It does signify the start of my new tank. I haven't received the new tank yet, but me setting up the 40b means that I will start to remove corals from this tank and put them in the 40b. This has been a great tank and has been one heck of a learning experience. I will transfer what I learned from this tank to the 225 dream tank.

Even though I will be closing this build thread, I will constantly refer back to it as, like I said, have learned a lot of what to and not to do. Always remember your past tanks as they will constantly be educators of the hobby.:)
 
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