Boomer's IM 20G Nano

[boomeraudio]

Sure no problem. It's hard not to want jump right in thinking there must be a quick fix. One of my tanks had dino for 3 months, killed large established colony of zoanthids. Back than 10 yrs ago there were not many resources regarding Dino treatment.
Lights out, no water changes, maintain pH above 8 worked for me and my tank was considerably worse.

Well I appreciate the knowledge based on past experiences. It's weird how they appeared out of nowhere and all of a sudden. Next thing I know, BOOM, they are everywhere. Glad I caught it relatively early, before a full tank crash and having to start over.

 

[boomeraudio]

I thought I would chime in to tell you I'm growing through my ugly stage as well. I would say my algae problem is worse than yours. I want to brush the crap out of my rocks. I started my nuvo in mid December. I wish I had listened to the expert and not add any corals until the ugly stage is over. The experts also say to let the process ride, and continue with your maintenance. I plan on doing the same thing too... You can do it!

Thanks for the encouragement. Definitely looking forward to cleaner / clearer tank days but this is all part of the process. I think I can save these corals that I put in there, hopefully. The dino's seem to have started to go away which is great. Wishing you all the best too

 

[reeferfoxx]

The UV is going to help a ton. When fighting dinos its important that nitrates and phosphates are available. As long as those two nutrients are available, your existing coral should rebound unless they are past any chance of survival. I've defeated a couple types of dinos and usually doing less is more. Also keep in mind, having dry dead rock for your tanks canvas, will require you to help seed the tank.

You need to start with some live sand and/or mud. You can get this fairly cheap from FloridaPets.com . You won't need much, maybe a cup of each.

One more note on dosing any type of bacteria. Bacteria needs nutrients. If you aren't aware of available N or P in the tank, don't dose bacteria products. Not only will they may not work with a deficiency but dinos will always prevail in those situations. I've always depended on Salifert Nitrate test and Hanna Phosphate ULR checker. I find the phosphate or phosphorus checker is the easiest to test and most accurate for hobby grade testing.

 

[boomeraudio]

The UV is going to help a ton. When fighting dinos its important that nitrates and phosphates are available. As long as those two nutrients are available, your existing coral should rebound unless they are past any chance of survival. I've defeated a couple types of dinos and usually doing less is more. Also keep in mind, having dry dead rock for your tanks canvas, will require you to help seed the tank.

You need to start with some live sand and/or mud. You can get this fairly cheap from FloridaPets.com . You won't need much, maybe a cup of each.

One more note on dosing any type of bacteria. Bacteria needs nutrients. If you aren't aware of available N or P in the tank, don't dose bacteria products. Not only will they may not work with a deficiency but dinos will always prevail in those situations. I've always depended on Salifert Nitrate test and Hanna Phosphate ULR checker. I find the phosphate or phosphorus checker is the easiest to test and most accurate for hobby grade testing.

Thanks for the advice! I have the Hanna Phosphate checker and I need to pickup the Salifert Nitrate test. As far as live sand, I started the tank with it, so we are good there. I definitely have an uptick in Nitrates and Phosphates so that'll help as well. I'm looking forward to beating these things. Leaving the lights off until Thursday on the recommendation of @Tahoe61 who's beaten them once before. I'll then turn them on for a short time, say 4-6 hours with a 2 hour ramp each side. Think that's too much?

 

[reeferfoxx]

I'll then turn them on for a short time, say 4-6 hours with a 2 hour ramp each side. Think that's too much?

If you can do an acclimation mode on your lights, i would do that. Or the equivalent would be your total length of photoperiod (ie 9-12 hours) but at reduced intensity. Then gradually moving up.

 

[boomeraudio]

If you can do an acclimation mode on your lights, i would do that. Or the equivalent would be your total length of photoperiod (ie 9-12 hours) but at reduced intensity. Then gradually moving up.

@reeferfoxx I have an AI Prime HD which has an acclimation mode. I can run a blue dominant schedule (Pirates of Caribbean) which goes for about 12 hours. 4 hour ramp up 2 hour ramp down. What % do you recommend?

 

[reeferfoxx]

@reeferfoxx I have an AI Prime HD which has an acclimation mode. I can run a blue dominant schedule (Pirates of Caribbean) which goes for about 12 hours. 4 hour ramp up 2 hour ramp down. What % do you recommend?

I mean, if i had to do a black out tomorrow and had to light acclimate after, I would use the schedule i'm using. Which my schedule is based on WWC's schedule. So, 12 hour total time, 30 minute ramp up and down, and only 4 hours of intense/peak par. However, setting that to acclimation mode. If you cannot do that, then anything would work so long as it matches your total lighting photoperiod.

Here is my schedule but i doubt it will make sense because its different software.

It works for me. Colors are popping

 

[boomeraudio]

I mean, if i had to do a black out tomorrow and had to light acclimate after, I would use the schedule i'm using. Which my schedule is based on WWC's schedule. So, 12 hour total time, 30 minute ramp up and down, and only 4 hours of intense/peak par. However, setting that to acclimation mode. If you cannot do that, then anything would work so long as it matches your total lighting photoperiod.

Here is my schedule but i doubt it will make sense because its different software.

It works for me. Colors are popping

Wow those pop! I’ll see if I can find a similar schedule for my light online and run it at 50% acclimation for about 2 weeks. That should work.
Thank you!

 

[boomeraudio]

Alright so a lights out update! Thanks to everyone for following along and helping me out.

No lights on since Saturday, so this would be day 5.

Parameters -
Salinity: 1.025 ppm
Temp: 80.3 degrees (lowering a bit)
PH: 8.0
Ammonia: .25 ppm
Nitrite: .50 ppm
Nitrate: Approx. 30 ppm
Phosphates: .04 ppm
Alkalinity: 8.064 dKH

My first question is should I add 2mL of Seachem Prime to reduce levels? Water change is what caused the tank to be too clean last time, which was part of the reason the dino's broke out.

Second question is should I turn the lights back on tomorrow? I've read that green and red are supporters of algae growth and mainly used in planted tanks, so should I exclude them for now in my schedule?

Final question is I've still got visible growth (reduced from what it was) on the back of the tank. I don't have a scraper for the rear, I suppose I can use my flipper and put some gloves on. Not a fan of sticking my hands in the tank with the bacteria (and I'm petrified of zoas palytoxin even if I'm not touching them haha).

Appreciate your help on this! Looking forward to your feedback. (@Tahoe61 @reeferfoxx @TheShrimpNibbler)

 

[TheShrimpNibbler]

Alright so a lights out update! Thanks to everyone for following along and helping me out.

No lights on since Saturday, so this would be day 5.

Parameters -
Salinity: 1.025 ppm
Temp: 80.3 degrees (lowering a bit)
PH: 8.0
Ammonia: .25 ppm
Nitrite: .50 ppm
Nitrate: Approx. 30 ppm
Phosphates: .04 ppm
Alkalinity: 8.064 dKH

My first question is should I add 2mL of Seachem Prime to reduce levels? Water change is what caused the tank to be too clean last time, which was part of the reason the dino's broke out.

Second question is should I turn the lights back on tomorrow? I've read that green and red are supporters of algae growth and mainly used in planted tanks, so should I exclude them for now in my schedule?

Final question is I've still got visible growth (reduced from what it was) on the back of the tank. I don't have a scraper for the rear, I suppose I can use my flipper and put some gloves on. Not a fan of sticking my hands in the tank with the bacteria (and I'm petrified of zoas palytoxin even if I'm not touching them haha).

Appreciate your help on this! Looking forward to your feedback. (@Tahoe61 @reeferfoxx @TheShrimpNibbler)

It’s looking good! It’s really up to you on the prime, but I wouldn’t be too worried about those levels. I would just clean the back with the flipper and not worry too much. As long as you wash your hands afterwards, you will be ok. If you don’t feel comfortable with you hands in the tank, that’s fine too and you can use gloves.

 

[boomeraudio]

It’s looking good! It’s really up to you on the prime, but I wouldn’t be too worried about those levels. I would just clean the back with the flipper and not worry too much. As long as you wash your hands afterwards, you will be ok. If you don’t feel comfortable with you hands in the tank, that’s fine too and you can use gloves.

I scraped the back wall, at least what I could reach and so far so good! I'm noticing (today specifically) that there is still some longer algae on the rockscape. Is it because my office is so bright, there's not direct sunlight on the tank, but it's VERY bright. Maybe I towel it for another day or two? I just don't want to turn the lights back on before it's eradicated. I know it takes time, but I'm afraid the lights will just feed into it more.

What do you guys think? @TheShrimpNibbler @Tahoe61

 

[Tahoe61]

Are you using the socks that come with this tank? Turkey baster all the rocks and surface areas every day, let the socks filter out the free floating particles, give it a hour or two and clean sock. Rinse and repeat daily.
With regard to black out, sure you can give it another day or two. If you choose to use a towel make sure you are not covering the top. Laundry pins work for this.
How are the fish doing?

,

 

[boomeraudio]

Are you using the socks that come with this tank? Turkey baster all the rocks and surface areas every day, let the socks filter out the free floating particles, give it a hour or two and clean sock. Rinse and repeat daily.
With regard to black out, sure you can give it another day or two. If you choose to use a towel make sure you are not covering the top. Laundry pins work for this.
How are the fish doing?

,

I am using inTank media basket with just filter floss for now. I can replace the floss every day if necessary. I'm afraid to rinse, because I'm not sure if my tap water has copper or not. I use my RODI unit to make the water I use for salt water / and fresh top off.

I shouldn't cover the top? How come?

Fish are doing very well. Shrimp molted again as well - so good news there.

 

[Tahoe61]

Covering the top impedes gas exchange.

I rinse the socks in my tank every 3 days with the garden hose.

You can use floss or foam, I just feel for this purpose socks capture more particulates.

 

[boomeraudio]

Covering the top impedes gas exchange.

I rinse the socks in my tank every 3 days with the garden hose.

You can use floss or foam, I just feel for this purpose socks capture more particulates.

Okay great. I'll do the steps above. What if the algae isn't blowing off the rocks? @Tahoe61

 

[TheShrimpNibbler]

Okay great. I'll do the steps above. What if the algae isn't blowing off the rocks? @Tahoe61

Use a cheap toothbrush to brush it off if it won’t blow off.

 

[boomeraudio]

Use a cheap toothbrush to brush it off if it won’t blow off.

Parameters have fallen back down to normal. Man I think we are on the right side now.

Ammonia & Nitrites both back to 0ppm. Nitrates at around 10ppm.

I scrubbed the algae off the rocks with a toothbrush and just powered back on the AI Prime running the BRS schedule. It's in acclimation mode at around 20%. the tank looks FAR better than it did and even the zoanthids are showing some color again. Hoping this those dino's are long gone...I'll have to keep an eye out for them.

Let me know what you guys think!

 

[boomeraudio]

Hey guys @Tahoe61 @TheShrimpNibbler

So far, the tank has seemed to be doing better. I'm running a 4 hour max lighting with 2 hour ramp up 1 hour ramp down at 50% acclimation.

Couple of questions if you don't mind:

1) Will the UV sterilizer continue to support killing off the dinos?
2) How long should I run the UV sterilizer for?
3) I have 1-2 colonies of zoas that still seem to be melting..after I had the lights off for a few days 3 out of the 5 colonies started to show color again. Should I turn the lights back off and wait longer?
4) I ordered furan2 to try and possibly dip as a last resort but I'm not sure. (see pic of colony) Should I dip all of them to be safe?

Appreciate you guys. Hope you're having a great weekend.

(colony that seems to be melting)

 

[Tahoe61]

I would run the UV continuously for awhile.

The tank looks much better.

At this time I would continue with the 5 hour photoperiod for at least another week or two.

Dip the worst looking zoanthids for now and see if you see improvement.

If you see the dino or algae start grow and spread reduce the photoperiod.

 

[boomeraudio]

I would run the UV continuously for awhile.

The tank looks much better.

At this time I would continue with the 5 hour photoperiod for at least another week or two.

Dip the worst looking zoanthids for now and see if you see improvement.

If you see the dino or algae start grow and spread reduce the photoperiod.

Sandbed in the rear has started to brown up again. I just threw a towel over the tank to black it out for a couple days. I'm nervous as I'm leaving for VT on Thursday for a week. My sister-in-law will be taking care of the tank (feeding) while I'm away. I can't expect her to notice any major differences because she doesn't know what she's looking for.

I'm going to continue running the UV sterilizer. I'll also test the params tomorrow morning to see where we are at. I want to make sure I have enough time to order something or pick something up (I.e. nitrates for dosing) if necessary.

If you were me, what would you do? @TheShrimpNibbler @reeferfoxx @Tahoe61

By the way @reeferfoxx I returned the Vibrant