Borat Peristaltic Pump Copy Build....

Dukereefnz

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Plan is to have a good at making a Borat Pump, here is the original thread, and Borat has said it is not problem to copy... so here I go.
The only difference is I plan to use electricity ..LOL

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/d...ings-of-glorious-nation-of-kazakistan.856269/

What Borat has built is simply unreal so I would like to make one.

Wiring is my down side, the building part I think I can do.. I have never built anything with Acrylic.
Borat has offered to help with the wiring and programming - so thanks.!

I am using Autodesk Fusion 360 to draw the part, I only have VERY limited skills.. like I mean REALLY LIMITED... skill.
This part took a long time... but I got there.

Once I have it drawn up, I will get the bits laser cut where possible.

Part 1 - Rotary Front Disc.PNG


Part 1 - Rotary Front Disc Drawing..PNG
 
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Dukereefnz

Dukereefnz

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In order to build the pump, the following components are required:

- 3-4 sheets of 5mm A4 size white perspex acrylic (I buy pre-cut A4 size acrylic as it's cheaper)
- 18x ball bearings 4mm/13mm ID/OD
- M4 countersunk screws and M4 nuts
- M3 screws
- Tensol 12 acrylic glue
- Arctic F8 PWM cooling fan (80mm diameter) - Purchased $22 NZ
- Rotary encoder
- Mean Well Constant Voltage LED Driver 25.2W 12V
- Murata Power Solutions Through Hole Switching Regulator, 5V dc Output Voltage, 1.5A Output Current
- TMC2209 v1.2 stepper motor driver - Purchased $16 NZ
- Arduino Nano
- Samsung IC2 SSD1306 OLED DIsplay
- Santoprene tubing 3.2mm bore
- Push-on straight connector,5mm ID hose
- JST crimp connectors
- 22 AWG wires
- 100uf 24V capacitor
- 90 degree angle mini USB male to female extension connector (30cm length)
- C14 panel mount power connector
- 2x RS PRO M8 x 30mm Shoulder Bolt
- 2x Easyfix A2 stainless steel flange head nuts
- 10x Easyfix A2 stainless steel large flat washers M8 x 2mm
- 4x M3 washers
- Nema 17 stepper motor, 0.71NM 1.8A

I am having trouble with the stepper motor... which one?

stepper motor.PNG
 
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Dukereefnz

Dukereefnz

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Ordered... fingers crossed it is the right one, looks like it.

- 3-4 sheets of 5mm A4 size white perspex acrylic (I buy pre-cut A4 size acrylic as it's cheaper)
- 18x ball bearings 4mm/13mm ID/OD
- M4 countersunk screws and M4 nuts
- M3 screws
- Tensol 12 acrylic glue
- Arctic F8 PWM cooling fan (80mm diameter) - Purchased $22 NZ
- Rotary encoder
- Mean Well Constant Voltage LED Driver 25.2W 12V
- Murata Power Solutions Through Hole Switching Regulator, 5V dc Output Voltage, 1.5A Output Current
- TMC2209 v1.2 stepper motor driver - Purchased $16 NZ
- Arduino Nano
- Samsung IC2 SSD1306 OLED DIsplay
- Santoprene tubing 3.2mm bore
- Push-on straight connector,5mm ID hose
- JST crimp connectors
- 22 AWG wires
- 100uf 24V capacitor
- 90 degree angle mini USB male to female extension connector (30cm length)
- C14 panel mount power connector
- 2x RS PRO M8 x 30mm Shoulder Bolt
- 2x Easyfix A2 stainless steel flange head nuts
- 10x Easyfix A2 stainless steel large flat washers M8 x 2mm
- 4x M3 washers
- Nema 17 stepper motor, 0.71NM 1.8A - Purchased $31 NZ
 
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Dukereefnz

Dukereefnz

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I have a Arduino - Duinotech Uno - from a starter kit....
From Dr Google..

Arduino is a microcontroller based electronic platform which is open for everyone, means anyone can use it without any cost.

Now let’s get dive into the answer of differences between Arduino Uno and Arduino Nano.

  1. Basically Arduino Nano is very much similar to Arduino UNO. Bothe of the board use the same micro controller like Atmega328p and also share the same program.
  2. The main difference between these two bards is in size, Uno is double to Nano.
  3. Basically USB cables are used for the programming in Arduino Uno and on the contrary in Arduino Nano uses the mini USB cable.
Below a chart is given to differentiate between them:

main-qimg-f2ad05b770a912d69f26e92cd9528518


So s long as the UNO can fit - it is OK to use... otherwise I will buy a NANO.
 

Borat

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I have a Arduino - Duinotech Uno - from a starter kit....
From Dr Google..

Arduino is a microcontroller based electronic platform which is open for everyone, means anyone can use it without any cost.

Now let’s get dive into the answer of differences between Arduino Uno and Arduino Nano.

  1. Basically Arduino Nano is very much similar to Arduino UNO. Bothe of the board use the same micro controller like Atmega328p and also share the same program.
  2. The main difference between these two bards is in size, Uno is double to Nano.
  3. Basically USB cables are used for the programming in Arduino Uno and on the contrary in Arduino Nano uses the mini USB cable.
Below a chart is given to differentiate between them:

main-qimg-f2ad05b770a912d69f26e92cd9528518


So s long as the UNO can fit - it is OK to use... otherwise I will buy a NANO.
Both Uno and Nano are good to use. I buy Nano cheaps very cheaply here in the UK: about £4 a chip, which is roughly the cost a pint of beer here in a pub (yeah.. beer got expensive over years..)

The beauty of Nano is its size and ease of PCB mounting - all connections can be soldiered. Provided you choose to use Nano, you will need one of the below (Nano chip comes with male pins that are soldiered to it - but you will need male/female connector, male pins soldiered to PCB and female pins receiving Nano):

capt.JPG
 
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Borat

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The rotary pivot needs to be quite thick (4 layers using 5mm acrylic) : are you going to glue them together and then use rotary sanding disk to create smooth surface for the rotary piece? Even if you make 4 perfectly cut pieces and glue them together, you won't be able to create a perfectly smooth arch surface (which may wear santoprene tubing quicker than otherwise). You still need a sanding belt to polish it off once all layers are glued together..
 
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Dukereefnz

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Thanks Borat - I am not sure what I will be making the parts out of yet.
The A4 5mm sheets does seem the most cost effective option.
I am planning to lazer cut the bits, so I might be able to get the rotary pivot cut from a single piece.
Aluminum could be an option but plastic seems better for the santoprene tubing.

As I will be getting the parts cut I need to get the tube crush right..... I have no idea on this, what did you work on?
Tube wall thickness x 2 with a little interference or clearance? LOL

Tube Crush Dimentions.PNG


Rotary Pivot inside diameter is 52mm
Roller face plate dimension is 46mm

Outside diameter for the 13mm rollers is 49mm

So the crush for the tube is 1.5mm is this too much?
What is the wall thickness of the tube?

santoprene tubing - how do you even pronounce that word?

Really enjoying this and with Borat's expertise I hope to get a working pump.
 
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Dukereefnz

Dukereefnz

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Both Uno and Nano are good to use. I buy Nano cheaps very cheaply here in the UK: about £4 a chip, which is roughly the cost a pint of beer here in a pub (yeah.. beer got expensive over years..)

The beauty of Nano is its size and ease of PCB mounting - all connections can be soldiered. Provided you choose to use Nano, you will need one of the below (Nano chip comes with male pins that are soldiered to it - but you will need male/female connector, male pins soldiered to PCB and female pins receiving Nano):

capt.JPG
Looks like I will be purchasing a Nano..
Thanks!
 

Borat

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Thanks Borat - I am not sure what I will be making the parts out of yet.
The A4 5mm sheets does seem the most cost effective option.
I am planning to lazer cut the bits, so I might be able to get the rotary pivot cut from a single piece.
Aluminum could be an option but plastic seems better for the santoprene tubing.

As I will be getting the parts cut I need to get the tube crush right..... I have no idea on this, what did you work on?
Tube wall thickness x 2 with a little interference or clearance? LOL

Tube Crush Dimentions.PNG


Rotary Pivot inside diameter is 52mm
Roller face plate dimension is 46mm

Outside diameter for the 13mm rollers is 49mm

So the crush for the tube is 1.5mm is this too much?
What is the wall thickness of the tube?

santoprene tubing - how do you even pronounce that word?

Really enjoying this and with Borat's expertise I hope to get a working pump.
I dont think you can easily work out tube crush exactly, rather there is a minimal distance between pivot arch diameter and roller diameter (as measured by 2 opposing ball bearings protrosions) that you will need to respect.

Santoprene tubing I am using (same as in Kamoer FX-STP) is this one: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/process-tubing/6678429/

Tubing wall size is 1.6mm, so the minimal diameter difference is 1.6mm x 2 (each tube wall) x 2 (diameter rather than radius). In this example it would be 6.4mm. I would start with that (but check which santoprene tubing you would be buying - depending on availability) - you can easily enlarge the diameter slightly later (using rotary sanding belt).

Generally the arch diameter can be made a few mm wider (3mm-5mm) than minimal without any loss of functionality: unlike a round dosing head where the tubing needs to be squeezed exactly all around, the pivot has an adjustable spring that will make sure that at least the top ball bearing is squeezed in full. Obviously the closer you are to the required minimal diameter, the less noise pump would produce.

Note: pivot has round edges near the tubing entry/exit points.

20210923_112354.jpg
 
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Dukereefnz

Dukereefnz

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Great advice - thanks.
https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot...d=8139043951537808&productId=1005002547244960
Tubing Purchased 1m length - this will last a while.

Noted the rounded edges... this drawing is to get the dimensions right only, then I will redraw the actual component that will be made.

Tube is 6.4OD / 3.2 ID so when the tube is squeezed flat that would be 3.2mm
1.6mm wall thickness.

So based on your comments I am going to go for 0.3mm clearance and then allow for the spring pressure.
So that means 3.5mm

Bearing OD is 49mm + ((1.6 + 1.6 + 0.3) x2) = 56mm
Sound good?

Latest drawing.PNG
 

Borat

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Great advice - thanks.
https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot...d=8139043951537808&productId=1005002547244960
Tubing Purchased 1m length - this will last a while.

Noted the rounded edges... this drawing is to get the dimensions right only, then I will redraw the actual component that will be made.

Tube is 6.4OD / 3.2 ID so when the tube is squeezed flat that would be 3.2mm
1.6mm wall thickness.

So based on your comments I am going to go for 0.3mm clearance and then allow for the spring pressure.
So that means 3.5mm

Bearing OD is 49mm + ((1.6 + 1.6 + 0.3) x2) = 56mm
Sound good?

Latest drawing.PNG
Looks reasonable! Well - you can always sand excess later if not enough clearance..
 

Borat

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As for 12v power supply - any constant voltage PSU with 2A output should work generally (24W or greater).

Your motors peak amper consuption will be at most 1.8A (generally less) - but the 5V voltage peripherals (LCD, Nano, stepper driver) will draw a bit of current as well, so 2A should be enough for all..
 

Borat

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Some other parts: I bought a pack of 10 shoulder bolts, just because that was my first purchase, I later found them for sale on ebay at roughly same price bubt sold in packs of 2. I ended up using all 10 shoulder bolts as I built 2 peri pumps (4 shoulder bolts) and an alk monitor (that uses 6 shoulder bolts)..

c6.JPG

Shoulder bolts should have body that's a bit longer than needed - you simply use thick M8 washers to control where your acessories should be (toward the head or towards the base on the shoulder bolt)..

Compression spring: I bought a pack of these , it is about-right, but in the last project i cut about a quater off - so as to make it less stiff (3.26nm/mm is a bit too much, I would go for 2.5nm/mm).

c7.JPG

Threaded rod..
C9.JPG
 
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