Bottom of frag tank burst

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HankstankXXL750

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This might be a really dumb question but if you do shallow frag tanks and these aren’t display tanks or in a store, what’s wrong with some wood or fiberglass and a liner? Something other than glass or acrylic.
Might not be a dumb question. Something like that could work, but maybe harder to plumb to a sump without leaking? Never done a wood or fiberglass tank. Also I think it will be easier to clean a glass tank vs a homemade system. Allows me to view from the side vs having to use a viewer from the top when the water is rippling. And with the exception of blowing my day today? It seemed to be a pretty easy project.
 

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I'm guessing the frame has twisted on you giving two high points of support and two low points of support.

Dimensional lumber is not intrinsically stable, Even after being kiln dried.

You can't tell twist with a level. You'll need to get or make a set of winding sticks to see that.
 

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Have you seen a zoo med lowboy? The glass is preposterously thin.
I have a zoo-med low boy frag myself. Not gonna lie, the plastic frame itself is warped on mine, which could have lead to an issue, so I threw foam under it. I like my pressure not to point.

This was an issue on lowboys they made from 2020-2021 I understand. The lfs I got mine from even mentioned it as I was buying it... and their job is to make money, so... take that for what it's worth.
 
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I'm guessing the frame has twisted on you giving two high points of support and two low points of support.

Dimensional lumber is not intrinsically stable, Even after being kiln dried.

You can't tell twist with a level. You'll need to get or make a set of winding sticks to see that.
Generally they won’t twist once installed. But using a 4’ level laying across the length of the board I can tell that the board is straight as the level wouldn’t sit flush if there were high points. It would rock on them. With the level they were level and visually no bowing.
 

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Generally they won’t twist once installed. But using a 4’ level laying across the length of the board I can tell that the board is straight as the level wouldn’t sit flush if there were high points. It would rock on them. With the level they were level and visually no bowing.
Your first statement is not quite correct. Any change in relative humidity can and does give wood the opportunity to move. Even after reaching equilibrium moisture content during drying (which is flash dried in commercial lumber), humidity and adding weight can let the stand twist.

This is why in the custom furniture business, we move projects inside for a few weeks, before finishing them. Also a reason I won't build in California, and ship my furniture to the Midwest or east coast. Wood movement happens. You either build with that in mind, or deal with the repercussions.
 
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Your first statement is not quite correct. Any change in relative humidity can and does give wood the opportunity to move. Even after reaching equilibrium moisture content during drying (which is flash dried in commercial lumber), humidity and adding weight can let the stand twist.

This is why in the custom furniture business, we move projects inside for a few weeks, before finishing them. Also a reason I won't build in California, and ship my furniture to the Midwest or east coast. Wood movement happens. You either build with that in mind, or deal with the repercussions.
I was saying that it shouldn’t twist, being fastened at both ends and only being 45” long. That being said, I probably should have dropped another $120 and placed a plywood top on each stand section.

Still with placing the 4’ level across both sides and a 2’ across both ends, I did not find any noticeable imperfections and there were no discernible high points.

Wondering now if hanging the lights directly from the sides of the tanks could have put some kind of twist or tweak to the tank. Surprised that the bottom vs the side would have burst, but the bottom is much larger and probably under more strain.

I suspended my lights on a new hanging system I built yesterday to avoid another catastrophe if that had anything to do with it.
 
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So now what to do about replacing the broken tank. I had one crack at one of the holes when I over tightened a bulkhead. Got a couple of pieces of 6”x6”x1/4” glass and drilled them to match the existing hole.

Thinking of attaching to top and bottom of the bottom glass. Super glueing the crack like they do with windshield repair, and seeing if it will take and keep water.

Wondering how long I should stress test before putting it in place if it hold initially.
 

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I was checking out ur other post on these frag tanks to implement some things on my lowboy. I was going to pick it up next week but now the quote I got from Glass cages looks promising. Yes it is a lot more but it might be worth it
 
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I was checking out ur other post on these frag tanks to implement some things on my lowboy. I was going to pick it up next week but now the quote I got from Glass cages looks promising. Yes it is a lot more but it might be worth it
What kind of price and size, if you don’t mind.
 

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I was checking out ur other post on these frag tanks to implement some things on my lowboy. I was going to pick it up next week but now the quote I got from Glass cages looks promising. Yes it is a lot more but it might be worth it
Anything Joe touches is worth it imo.
 

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Putting down a sheet of 3/4” plywood on all custom made stands is necessary , any defects in the wood frame will be covered with the plywood. I use 2.25” of plywood on top of my custom stand
 

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I wouldn't even use plywood anymore, all the sheets I'm seeing are fine for underlayment, but I wouldn't trust it not to bow even stretched and bolted down. Slab all the way.
 

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No bottom support except outside edges? Could be the problem.
That was exactly my thought. My frag tank base was constructed from scaffold poles, painted black and with a 3/4 “ marine ply top, again sealed with a couple of coats of black paint after I had cut out a hole for the plumbing, then got a 5mm thick neoprene mat on top. It may be a bit belt and braces but what price peace of mind?
 
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That was exactly my thought. My frag tank base was constructed from scaffold poles, painted black and with a 3/4 “ marine ply top, again sealed with a couple of coats of black paint after I had cut out a hole for the plumbing, then got a 5mm thick neoprene mat on top. It may be a bit belt and braces but what price peace of mind?
I believe it the cause may have been the lights hung from the side and the twist. Not sure, but I hung all the lights from the ceiling, replaced the tank on existing stand and it has been fine.
 

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It's a framed aquarium. It needs a solid surface under the frame/outside edges. That's it.
 
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It's a framed aquarium. It needs a solid surface under the frame/outside edges. That's it.
That seems exactly opposite of what has been said. Never had an aquarium stand that had a solid top until I got a rimless. Especially since with a frame, the glass doesn’t touch a flat surface.
 

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