Brand Brand Brand New

[tbowling19]

Hello everyone. I am about to switch out a Fresh water tank (210g) to a salt. I have been up all day reading on new stuff and talking to a million people on FB. I am going to take this one step at a time, and I don't care if it takes me a 30 years, I'm going to do it slow and right. With that being said:

I am looking at doing a coral system with Fish

I have cleaned out the tank and it is completely empty of debri. I was told be my LFS it would be better to make my own water. The first thing I need to do is get s RO/DI system.

I ordered a Stage 5 400 gpd, just to be safe.

Question #1: I will be using IO Crystal Reef. Is this ok? The reason why I wanted this was because its the standard industry. I know Tropic Marin and others are better, my thing is TM was out of stock everywhere I looked, and I don't want to get jammed up with them being out of stock.

Question #2: Should I mix the water in garbage tubs, or put the water and salt in the tank?

Question #3: I have a bunch of heaters from my fresh tanks. Can I use those or do I need to get new heaters?

Question # 4: Should I get a hydrometer or a refractometer, and should I get a digital one, or the standard blue one I am seeing everywhere?

Question # 5: I have heard about 6, 453, 239, 817 different types of powerheads (LOL). I have gotten it down to Ecotech, Maxspect, and Jebao. From what I understand I will need something that pushes the water 20 to 30 times the gallons, so if my math is correct 20 x 210 = 4200 or 30 x 210 = 6300. I was told I may need 2 to 4 powerheads (2 on the side 2 in the back) to have a good water flow. Is this correct? Or should I be looking at just making sure I have 2, that would be stronger than 6300 gph.


I don't want to talk rock, coral, sand, or fish yet. Baby steps,

Any advice on beginning will be greatly appreciated.

 

[PeterC99]

Wow Tommy you don’t waste any time.

IO Reef Crystals are fine.

You can mix the water in the tank as long as you have nothing live in the tank.

Heaters are for both Salt & Fresh so you can use one of your old ones. Heaters are number 1 reason for tank failures so use a good one.

Really doesn’t matter what you use to measure salinity as long as a decent model that’s is used consistently.

I’m a believer in over powered quality power heads but I’m sure there will be differences of opinions.

Good luck!

 

[tbowling19]

Wow Tommy you don’t waste any time.

IO Reef Crystals are fine.

You can mix the water in the tank as long as you have nothing live in the tank.

Heaters are for both Salt & Fresh so you can use one of your old ones. Heaters are number 1 reason for tank failures so use a good one.

Really doesn’t matter what you use to measure salinity as long as a decent model that’s is used consistently.

I’m a believer in over powered quality power heads but I’m sure there will be differences of opinions.

Good luck!

Thank you very much..

 

[jmichaelh7]

Get two Refractometer to be safe. One time my Refractometer was off and good Thing I had another one to verify.
Make sure water is appropriate Temperature when measuring salinity as when it’s hot like 90 degrees it will read wrong salinity.

Get a new heater. If it becomes faulty which it will, you will regret it.

Just FYI saltwater hobby is expensive at first but when you get everything, it will be just maintenance cost after that.

#1 don’t SKIP out on the good stuff. You pay for what you get

 

[New&no clue]

WELCOME!!

1. That salt is fine. Depending on the types of corals you get later, you may want to change it or you may find it works fine for your needs.

2. First time, you can mix right in the tank. Once you have livestock, you will need to mix outside.

3. A heater is a heater. However, heaters do fail after a while, so I would suggest getting a temp monitor or controller as well.

4. IMO refractometers are better, and I prefer digital.

5. Powerheads will depend on the fish and corals you get. Some like higher flow and some like lower flow, so you want to match your powerheads to their needs. To start with, I would get something that is adjustable and only 2. If you need higher flow, you can add on later. If you need lower flow, you can turn the two down.

 

[Gtinnel]

1. IMO Reef crystalsbare fine, I've been using it for years and many others for much longer.

2. You can mix the salt and water in the tank for the initial fill. Any other time it needs to be mixed before going into the tank. Also make sure to add salt to the water not water to the salt.

3. Yes they'll work just fine. I'd recommend getting a cheap temp controller like inkbird if you don't plan on having a full aquarium controller.

4. Either a floating hydrometer, either refractometer, or a conductive salinity pen (like the Hanna one). Even more than 1 is best, I personally have 4 seperate ways to measure salinity. I don't trust just 1 of them.

5. 20-30x turnover seems low to me. Id go with around 50x. Get whichever brand works with your budget. You also need to decide if you'd prefer the gyre style. When it comes to powerheads the more the better, on that size tank I'd agree with having at least 4. I have 2 gyres on my 125g tank and I don't feel like there is enough flow in the middle of my tank.

Also, if you're determined to do this the right way don't overlook a quarantine tank.

 

[afrokobe]

I second everyone's else opinion of owning more than one way of measuring salinity. I have a refractometer and tropic marin hydrometer. gives me comfort to know I can check one with the other.

 

[Fish Think Pink]

Hello everyone. I am about to switch out a Fresh water tank (210g) to a salt. I have been up all day reading on new stuff and talking to a million people on FB. I am going to take this one step at a time, and I don't care if it takes me a 30 years, I'm going to do it slow and right. With that being said:

I am looking at doing a coral system with Fish

I have cleaned out the tank and it is completely empty of debri. I was told be my LFS it would be better to make my own water. The first thing I need to do is get s RO/DI system.

I ordered a Stage 5 400 gpd, just to be safe.

Question #1: I will be using IO Crystal Reef. Is this ok? The reason why I wanted this was because its the standard industry. I know Tropic Marin and others are better, my thing is TM was out of stock everywhere I looked, and I don't want to get jammed up with them being out of stock.

Question #2: Should I mix the water in garbage tubs, or put the water and salt in the tank?

Question #3: I have a bunch of heaters from my fresh tanks. Can I use those or do I need to get new heaters?

Question # 4: Should I get a hydrometer or a refractometer, and should I get a digital one, or the standard blue one I am seeing everywhere?

Question # 5: I have heard about 6, 453, 239, 817 different types of powerheads (LOL). I have gotten it down to Ecotech, Maxspect, and Jebao. From what I understand I will need something that pushes the water 20 to 30 times the gallons, so if my math is correct 20 x 210 = 4200 or 30 x 210 = 6300. I was told I may need 2 to 4 powerheads (2 on the side 2 in the back) to have a good water flow. Is this correct? Or should I be looking at just making sure I have 2, that would be stronger than 6300 gph.


I don't want to talk rock, coral, sand, or fish yet. Baby steps,

Any advice on beginning will be greatly appreciated.

Great answers already on here for all your questions. Since you ask about beginning advice, let me share my favorite online reference guide since books are falling out of favor - it's nice to have an article for reference:

The Supreme Guide To Setting Up A Saltwater Reef Aquarium

This article was sponsored by @MarineDepot at www.marinedepot.com. Introduction The marine environment is one of the most complex systems on the planet. The aquarium you are about to set up is only a tiny sliver of the vast ocean, but it is no...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[tbowling19]

1. IMO Reef crystalsbare fine, I've been using it for years and many others for much longer.

2. You can mix the salt and water in the tank for the initial fill. Any other time it needs to be mixed before going into the tank. Also make sure to add salt to the water not water to the salt.

3. Yes they'll work just fine. I'd recommend getting a cheap temp controller like inkbird if you don't plan on having a full aquarium controller.

4. Either a floating hydrometer, either refractometer, or a conductive salinity pen (like the Hanna one). Even more than 1 is best, I personally have 4 seperate ways to measure salinity. I don't trust just 1 of them.

5. 20-30x turnover seems low to me. Id go with around 50x. Get whichever brand works with your budget. You also need to decide if you'd prefer the gyre style. When it comes to powerheads the more the better, on that size tank I'd agree with having at least 4. I have 2 gyres on my 125g tank and I don't feel like there is enough flow in the middle of my tank.

Also, if you're determined to do this the right way don't overlook a quarantine tank.

Thank you, I didn't even think about a quarantine tank. I will add that in for later down the road.

 

[tbowling19]

Get two Refractometer to be safe. One time my Refractometer was off and good Thing I had another one to verify.
Make sure water is appropriate Temperature when measuring salinity as when it’s hot like 90 degrees it will read wrong salinity.

Get a new heater. If it becomes faulty which it will, you will regret it.

Just FYI saltwater hobby is expensive at first but when you get everything, it will be just maintenance cost after that.

#1 don’t SKIP out on the good stuff. You pay for what you get

Thank you

 

[Just John]

1. IMO Reef crystalsbare fine, I've been using it for years and many others for much longer.

2. You can mix the salt and water in the tank for the initial fill. Any other time it needs to be mixed before going into the tank. Also make sure to add salt to the water not water to the salt.

3. Yes they'll work just fine. I'd recommend getting a cheap temp controller like inkbird if you don't plan on having a full aquarium controller.

4. Either a floating hydrometer, either refractometer, or a conductive salinity pen (like the Hanna one). Even more than 1 is best, I personally have 4 seperate ways to measure salinity. I don't trust just 1 of them.

5. 20-30x turnover seems low to me. Id go with around 50x. Get whichever brand works with your budget. You also need to decide if you'd prefer the gyre style. When it comes to powerheads the more the better, on that size tank I'd agree with having at least 4. I have 2 gyres on my 125g tank and I don't feel like there is enough flow in the middle of my tank.

Also, if you're determined to do this the right way don't overlook a quarantine tank.

As said above, an Inkbird is a must get! 100% worth it!

 

[tbowling19]

As said above, an Inkbird is a must get! 100% worth it!

Cool looking it up now.

 

[Auquanut]

First off, Welcome to the family!

One question. Is the 210 drilled for a sump? I'm sure you've considered this, but most people find a sump type setup advantageous with a tank that size and much more inconvenient to install after the system is running.

 

[tbowling19]

First off, Welcome to the family!

One question. Is the 210 drilled for a sump? I'm sure you've considered this, but most people find a sump type setup advantageous with a tank that size and much more inconvenient to install after the system is running.

Thank you. and No. I have 2 FX 6's. I have been looking at the setup for cannister and Salt. This tank is not drilled

 

[Gtinnel]

First off, Welcome to the family!

One question. Is the 210 drilled for a sump? I'm sure you've considered this, but most people find a sump type setup advantageous with a tank that size and much more inconvenient to install after the system is running.

Very good point, being a freshwater tank I bet it's not.

Cool looking it up now.

Heads up inkbird has a sale for today on a lot of their products. If you don't think you'll need cooling I have and absolutely love the ITC-306A... for the price at least.

 

[tbowling19]

No. I have 2 FX 6's. I have been looking at the setup for cannister and Salt. This tank is not drilled

Very good point, being a freshwater tank I bet it's not.


Heads up inkbird has a sale for today on a lot of their products. If you don't think you'll need cooling I have and absolutely love the ITC-306A... for the price at least.

Do you have a link?

 

[Gtinnel]

Do you have a link?

If you click on the links in this thread it takes you to their Amazon store.

SPECIAL EVENT for Inkbird 11th anniversary - 24 HOURS ONLY, UP TO 50% OFF

Good morning, Reefers! ;Singing Inkbird is celebrating its 11th-anniversary on September 15th. ·Tip: Add the Inkbird products into the cart, make sure you will not miss the event! *****BEST PRICE EVER! 24 HOURS ONLY***** 【US store】 Controllers ( Standard version) · ITC-306T Temperature...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Auquanut]

Thank you. and No. I have 2 FX 6's. I have been looking at the setup for cannister and Salt. This tank is not drilled

Just a few things to consider since it appears you are really doing your research upfront.

I also keep freshwater tanks. One is a 125 planted.

While many reefers have great success maintaining reef tanks utilizing canister filtration, you'll want to do your research on how they utilize them. It can differ significantly from what you're used to.

You may want to consider an inline heater (on a controller) connected to the return of one of the canisters. Keeps the heater out of the tank and the one that I used in a FW tank kept the temp dead on for years.

A system that size will inherently produce a certain amount of evaporation. In my planted tanks, I have no problem letting the water level drop significantly before adding water. Not so much in the reef. You really have to keep up with evap daily to reduce fluctuations in salinity and other parameters. An auto top off system is a godsend for this, but will add to the gear in the display.

Depending on the type and amount of corals that you will eventually stock the tank with, water changes may or may not keep up with Alk/Cal consumption. You can dose both manually every day up to a point. In my heavily stocked 125, I literally dose 230 ml of BRS Alk and Cal solutions daily despite a 2% daily auto water change. For that amount of dosing, an autodoser is a must. Again, this can be accomplished at the top of the tank, but must be in a high flow area, and adds more gear to the top of the display.

Finally, I'm a big proponent of "heavy in - heavy out". Basically, for me this means that my fish and corals appreciate a healthy amount of nutrition (food) added to the system, but can't tolerate elevated levels of nutrients (nitrogen and phosphates). To accomplish a healthy balance, I employ a skimmer, filter socks, refugium and carbon reactor. On a system that big, I'm not sure how effective an HOB skimmer, fuge etc... would be. Never tried it. But again, for each item you add, your adding to the gear on/in the display and detracting from the visual appeal.

One of the advantages of a sump is that all of the equipment utilized to maintain the system are confined to an area separate from the display.

I'm not necessarily trying to sell you on a sumped system. As I've said, many reefers find success with sumpless systems (research). I'm just suggesting that while you are researching your build, you consider your long range goals and what you think will best meet those goals. It's so much easier to set up the system for the long run up front than to make a major change like adding a sump later.

 

[RedReefer]

Welcome to R2R!!! Sounds like your moving in the right direction. There's enough info on Reef2Reef, to be successful in you new hobby! Glad your here!!!

 

[tbowling19]

Just a few things to consider since it appears you are really doing your research upfront.

I also keep freshwater tanks. One is a 125 planted.

While many reefers have great success maintaining reef tanks utilizing canister filtration, you'll want to do your research on how they utilize them. It can differ significantly from what you're used to.

You may want to consider an inline heater (on a controller) connected to the return of one of the canisters. Keeps the heater out of the tank and the one that I used in a FW tank kept the temp dead on for years.

A system that size will inherently produce a certain amount of evaporation. In my planted tanks, I have no problem letting the water level drop significantly before adding water. Not so much in the reef. You really have to keep up with evap daily to reduce fluctuations in salinity and other parameters. An auto top off system is a godsend for this, but will add to the gear in the display.

Depending on the type and amount of corals that you will eventually stock the tank with, water changes may or may not keep up with Alk/Cal consumption. You can dose both manually every day up to a point. In my heavily stocked 125, I literally dose 230 ml of BRS Alk and Cal solutions daily despite a 2% daily auto water change. For that amount of dosing, an autodoser is a must. Again, this can be accomplished at the top of the tank, but must be in a high flow area, and adds more gear to the top of the display.

Finally, I'm a big proponent of "heavy in - heavy out". Basically, for me this means that my fish and corals appreciate a healthy amount of nutrition (food) added to the system, but can't tolerate elevated levels of nutrients (nitrogen and phosphates). To accomplish a healthy balance, I employ a skimmer, filter socks, refugium and carbon reactor. On a system that big, I'm not sure how effective an HOB skimmer, fuge etc... would be. Never tried it. But again, for each item you add, your adding to the gear on/in the display and detracting from the visual appeal.

One of the advantages of a sump is that all of the equipment utilized to maintain the system are confined to an area separate from the display.

I'm not necessarily trying to sell you on a sumped system. As I've said, many reefers find success with sumpless systems (research). I'm just suggesting that while you are researching your build, you consider your long range goals and what you think will best meet those goals. It's so much easier to set up the system for the long run up front than to make a major change like adding a sump later.

I have been doing serious homework on the cannisters and a salt tank. There are some people that I have been talking to about it that have FX4 and 6's on their setups. I will be also switching out the ugly in and out valves on the cannisters and going with lily pipes with surface skimmers