Brew's 187g slice of the ocean

Maxx

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Well thanks. I actually ordered some Loudwolf sodium nitrate to dose and see if I can bring it back up to around 10 ppm. We shall see. I never connected the dots with it being low let alone pay attention until you both started talking about it. So maybe that is why I'm seeing it. In any case learned something new and I'll go from there.

Tank and corals don't seem to mind although I still can't figure out why the blue / purple cespitularia melted in less than 24 hours yet my other xenia is doing too well :D The joys of reefing I guess.


I've been using KNO3 supplements from Green Leaf aquariums for several years and had good results. Might look into them as well if Loudwolf doesnt have what you need.
 
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I've been using KNO3 supplements from Green Leaf aquariums for several years and had good results. Might look into them as well if Loudwolf doesnt have what you need.

Thanks Maxx! I think that was another source I found and wrote down. Before I do anything I need to understand more how it works for sure. I'm going to run another test this weekend just to see if I'm consistent in the results although the nyos kit is pretty easy honestly.
 

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I use the Nyos as well. I'm not color blind, but the Salifert test kit was tough for me to read accurately and the wife got sick and tired of me asking her. I have no issues reading the Nyos.

For my little set up (40 breeder) I dose 15 mls of KNO3 solution which is mixed 25g of KNO3 per 500mls of RODi water. This brings my NO3 levels up between 3 and 5 ppm for a little less than 60 gallons total system volume (20 gallon long sump not filled to the top and have equipment in the sump as well, but it makes math easier.)

For PO4 I currently use aquavitro activate. I dose 1.85 mls which brings my PO4 from 0.00 ppm up to 0.1 ppm.

Both amounts slowly drop over a 2-5 day period, (tank has been set up since 5-29-20, but the rock has been "cooking" in a rubber maid with Microbacter XLM since 01-10-20), so it's still pretty new and things are still somewhat in flux. I expect to have consumption rates dialed in as the system matures.

I bought this scale from Amazon, and these flasks to mix the KNO3 solution in.

I went slow and tested both KNO3 solution levels and PO4 levels when dosing them and worked my up to my dosages. I would STRONGLY recommend you do the same. I'd hate for you (or anyone else) to overdose based on my numbers. Do your own math, start slow, and work your way up.

For example, If you've got a 60 gallon system and you want to dose like I am....start with a KNO3 solution and mix it to 25 grams of KNO3 powder per 500 mls of RODi water. Then start off with one milliliter of the solution as a dose and see how much it raises your system NO3. Then adjust from there.

Just a suggestion, I'm far from Brew's level of reefing (or many others here for that matter). Just go slow and dont be in a hurry.
 
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Sallstrom

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@Sallstrom

What is the concern with dKh of 8.7 in lower nutrient tanks like saf1's (and mine as our parameters are very close)?
dKH higher then natural sea water levels (6-7,5 (could vary more in some areas)) was discussed a lot a while back when Zeovit was new and many people wanted to run their tanks with very low nutrient levels. Many aquarists experienced burned tips on mostly Acropora corals (if I remeber it right) when the KH inceased while the nutrients were very low. I've also seen it in aquariums I've been responsible for, one or two times. I remember a big argument about different salts, and the conclusion was that some salts had higher KH and when changing water the KH in the tank increased, which could have been the reason for "burned" corals.

I'm pretty sure there are great post here on R2R on why this happen, but they might be buried in very long threads I fear.

I think the theory is that there's a connection between nutrients, photosyntesis, alkalinity and coral grow rate. Higher KH might give faster growth which might lead to depletion of building material and/or "too much" photosyntetesis/O2 production inside the coral. Something like that :)
As always I give @Lasse the opportunity to right me if I'm totally wrong :p

I don't know where the limits are for when corals might be harmed. Not for the nutrient levels or the KH. So therefor I like to be on the safe side and keep what is considered a "low alkalinity", 6,5 to 7,5 dKH. But if you look around there are plenty of reefs doing fine with higher KH too, so don't listen too much to me ;)
 

Maxx

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Historically, I do pretty good with hard to keep fish and with harder to keep anemones, but SPS were always a struggle for me. I'm doing things differently now and so far, it's been working out (knock on wood...or, whatever similar Scandinavian ritual exists....shots of Surströmming perhaps?)

Thanks for your input, I do appreciate it.
 
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I keep my system between 9dkh and 9.5dkh. I used to keep it closer to 10dkh but I've lately taken steps to reduce SPS growth. The two big factors were this and reducing my lighting by 15%.

But I definitely agree... if you are going low nutrients you need to go with a lower alkalinity. I've seen enough information to make me confident higher alk leads to faster growth. I'm also convinced that faster growth increases the corals sensitivity to issues and the rate at which things can go bad.
 

Raege

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There’s just something about seeing a Mac truck size hippo turn so gracefully like on a dime like a fine sports car. Even knowing what they are capable of still so beautiful and amazing to watch. Thanks for sharing as always
 
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I remember when the scape was all frags. Crazy growth.

What have you used for aminos etc over the last year? Acropower? Phyto?
The only thing I have used consistently is Chroma by UWC, and my understanding is that it is more for color than growth. I have used some RedSea amino's and some of the BRS Reef Chili, but probably not enough of either to make a difference.
My growth started strongest when I nailed flow. As soon as I figured out how to run my gyres in a way to minimize chaotic flow and maximize velocity, the coral took off.
 

RichtheReefer21

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U have the 280s? Maxspect right? Too lazy to go look.

How often do u pull them for cleaning? I go about 2 - 3 months between hot vinegar runs on mine. Curious...
 
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Brew12

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U have the 280s? Maxspect right? Too lazy to go look.

How often do u pull them for cleaning? I go about 2 - 3 months between hot vinegar runs on mine. Curious...
I have 4 of the 250's. 2 on each wall. When I only had one on each wall I would lose velocity from water going to the front and back of the tank. Now that I'm shooting a wall of water across the entire width of the tank the flow is much better.

I have a plastic bag that I line the inside of the metal shipping containers with. I fill that with vinegar and soak them for a few hours every 6 weeks or so. Whenever they start looking rough or if I notice flow has dropped.
I run one side at 70% for around 30 minutes with the other side at 5%. The low side then ramps up to 70% over 10 minutes. Once it is up, the original 70% side ramps down to 5% over 10 minutes. It stays like this for 30 minutes. This goes back and forth during the day. At night, both run at 30%
 

RichtheReefer21

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I have 4 of the 250's. 2 on each wall. When I only had one on each wall I would lose velocity from water going to the front and back of the tank. Now that I'm shooting a wall of water across the entire width of the tank the flow is much better.

I have a plastic bag that I line the inside of the metal shipping containers with. I fill that with vinegar and soak them for a few hours every 6 weeks or so. Whenever they start looking rough or if I notice flow has dropped.
I run one side at 70% for around 30 minutes with the other side at 5%. The low side then ramps up to 70% over 10 minutes. Once it is up, the original 70% side ramps down to 5% over 10 minutes. It stays like this for 30 minutes. This goes back and forth during the day. At night, both run at 30%
Do you have a link for the details on how to program mine to run a timed daily schedule?
 
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Do you have a link for the details on how to program mine to run a timed daily schedule?
I use Icecap interface modules and control mine from my Profilux controller. Not sure if it can be done on the standard controller.
 

RichtheReefer21

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I use Icecap interface modules and control mine from my Profilux controller. Not sure if it can be done on the standard controller.
Roger that. Thanks. Have the advanced controller. But a daily schedule isnt an option i dont believe. Ill check again.
 
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very nice cyano discussion! Def prefers threads that encourage general discussion. I learned something.

The time is approaching to bring a bunch of frags to your fav LFS Brew!
We only have 1 LFS in my area now, and they don't accept frags for store credit. I was bringing them to Main Street Aquatics before they closed. Well over 100 frags over 2 months. Really sad they couldn't keep the store open.
 

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The only thing I have used consistently is Chroma by UWC, and my understanding is that it is more for color than growth. I have used some RedSea amino's and some of the BRS Reef Chili, but probably not enough of either to make a difference.
My growth started strongest when I nailed flow. As soon as I figured out how to run my gyres in a way to minimize chaotic flow and maximize velocity, the coral took off.
I would like to try copying your flow programing with my MP40s. I realize they are different from the gyres but I want to see if I get similar results. I know that the growth went from meh to impressive when I added the second MP40.
 

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