Broadfield's Red Sea Reefer 450 Build - OCD Inspired... Going Back To a Reef

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Broadfield

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You have any amazing build, I was just wondering what salt mix do you use or dos ? Your stuff looks so vibrant and healthy

I use Aquaforest salt. I dose Red Sea Reef Energy A and B
 
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Hi mate for the black film behind the tank how do you remove it without removing the overflow one?

Any regrets removing it ?

You need to simply use a straight edge and a razor blade. If you already have the tank in place, full of water and close to the wall, then you are not going to be able to get back there to keep the overflow section. Which is the same scenario I was met with. So I peeled the entire film off and then double stuck a piece of 1/8" thick, black ABS plastic behind the overflow.

I do not regret it one bit.
 

Genomecop

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I was looking for a web site of the guys who made your sump and there doesn't seem to be one which is odd. How do you go about ordering one?
Thanks.
 
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I was looking for a web site of the guys who made your sump and there doesn't seem to be one which is odd. How do you go about ordering one?
Thanks.

This is their website, but it doesn't appear to be working:

http://www.elite-aquatics.net/

Like others, they may have ditched paying for a website and primarily use Facebook and advertise throughout the forums... it's what I do for one of my businesses. I'm not sure if they are still a vendor on here or not, but I'll tag them just in case.

@Elite-Aquatics

I see they are still rock'n on their Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/Elite-Aquatics-241732935839455/

Talk to Tyler there and tell him Toby Broadfield referred you... Tyler is a good guy!
 
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This is their website, but it doesn't appear to be working:

http://www.elite-aquatics.net/

Like others, they may have ditched paying for a website and primarily use Facebook and advertise throughout the forums... it's what I do for one of my businesses. I'm not sure if they are still a vendor on here or not, but I'll tag them just in case.

@Elite-Aquatics

I see they are still rock'n on their Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/Elite-Aquatics-241732935839455/

Talk to Tyler there and tell him Toby Broadfield referred you... Tyler is a good guy!
Tyler is local to me and I recently talked to him about his site. He said he has a new one in the works that is a lot better. That was a few weeks ago.

I would say Tyler is easily one of the best acrylic workers I've ever seen. His stuff is always top notch. I wanted to custom build a sump with him for my 120g I'm building but budget restraints won't allow it right now.

He always answers me on Facebook messenger and is pretty quick
 

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This is their website, but it doesn't appear to be working:

http://www.elite-aquatics.net/

Like others, they may have ditched paying for a website and primarily use Facebook and advertise throughout the forums... it's what I do for one of my businesses. I'm not sure if they are still a vendor on here or not, but I'll tag them just in case.

@Elite-Aquatics

I see they are still rock'n on their Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/Elite-Aquatics-241732935839455/

Talk to Tyler there and tell him Toby Broadfield referred you... Tyler is a good guy!


They do great work, I have 3 sets of their sumps and matching topoff reservoirs in varying sizes and configurations.
 

Corey Chism

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Hello Broadfield, Your tank looks sick. Great job and thanks for taking your time to post and show everyone.

I currently have the MAX E260 and I am looking to add the underneath sump. Am I correct in assuming for for the return I could buy an extra emergency drain and cutting it to add the metric to standard slip conversions that BRS sells? I understand that I would only be able to run 3/4 in pipe and not the 1in you did?

Would I also be able to perform the above for the main drain? I know the main drain is larger at 32mm, I don’t have the actual plumbing so I am not sure if it is just the pipe that is larger but the part the screws in to the bulkhead is only 25mm? Or would it best just to use the adaptor you used for the main drain?

Also what size screws did you use to secure the PVC Pipe clamp to the top of your stand? I don’t want to use something to long and crack the tank but I also don’t want to use a screw that is not long enough and not be able to support the weight?
 

Gene Ashton

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just got my 450 and will be reading this. Why and how did you take the plastic off the back. How is the tank holding up? You did a great job on this. My tank is not level and the bumpers on the bottom are not adjustable. I also think Ill need to reinforce the floor below. Did you need to reinforce your floor. I haven't read the build yet sorry if I'm asking q's your already put in your build.
 

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Alright I admit I am OCD. I do not want to shim each of the 18 hard plastic rubber feet under the cabinet. I am off about 3/16 from front to back with the front being low. I also cannot believe that this cabinet isn't already fitted with adjustable feet. I am considering going to the local hardware store and buying 18 adjustable feet. The current feet are little nubs held in by a tiny nail. I want to buy the adjustable feet and I wonder if I mount them in the bottom of the stand if it will compromise the base. To put in leveling feet you have to drill and insert a threaded T nut to screw the feet into. Has anybody already done this? I also understand some Red Sea tanks already come with leveling feet installed. TIA
 

Gene Ashton

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how do I start a thread. I saw somebody on this forum post some feet they suggested putting on the bottom of a stand and I was going to try them same. I cannot find that post.
 

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@Broadfield

You don't know me but I read a lot of this thread.

1st, you have my sincere condolences. I lost my mother last year and I'm not over it yet. Not by a long shot.
Hang in the. It gets easier as time moves on.

2nd, I love your build! I'm about to order a RSR 625xxl and I'm using your buld for inspiration.
I can't do what you've done. You have truly excellent talent for this and I thank you for sharing it with us.

I'm sure I will have questions that have already been answered but... it's a 64 page thread as of now and I won't know where to look for the answers.

I will be coming from a 110gal display and moving on up to the 625xxl.

Thank you for sharing this with us.
 
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@Broadfield

You don't know me but I read a lot of this thread.

1st, you have my sincere condolences. I lost my mother last year and I'm not over it yet. Not by a long shot.
Hang in the. It gets easier as time moves on.

2nd, I love your build! I'm about to order a RSR 625xxl and I'm using your buld for inspiration.
I can't do what you've done. You have truly excellent talent for this and I thank you for sharing it with us.

I'm sure I will have questions that have already been answered but... it's a 64 page thread as of now and I won't know where to look for the answers.

I will be coming from a 110gal display and moving on up to the 625xxl.

Thank you for sharing this with us.

PM sent!

@Broadfield Where does your exit line for the reactors dump back into? Do they dump water back to the return line or into the sump?

Back into the sump... you can see the three of them in this image:

IMG_7770 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
 

Dj City

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Good morning.

So far, I only have one question.

What EXACTLY AND SPECIFICALLY do I need to hard plumb my return pump to the RSR 625xxl system?
I am going to build a manifold. I have never used or built one before. I'm not even sure yet that I will need a manifold but I want one in the event that I do.
The return pump is going to be a Jeabo DCP 20000. Its overkill but I would rather have more flow than needed and dial it back instead of not enough flow.

I'm thinking my manifold will be very simple with a straight shot across the top with multiple outlets. Of course that could change and the design could be much more intricate but for now in the planning stage, simple is better.

I am NOT a plumber. I have no idea about correct sizes or converting something with plumbing from this to that. No idea about metric to whatever we use here in the states. I can measure, cut and assemble pretty well as long as I have the CORRECT things to measure cut and assemble.

Can you PLEASE let me know exactly what I need to get and where I might get them from? I will install unions wherever I can. (learned about unions here on R2R). Please let me know where I should have them and what size I need.
 
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Broadfield

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Good morning.

So far, I only have one question.

What EXACTLY AND SPECIFICALLY do I need to hard plumb my return pump to the RSR 625xxl system?
I am going to build a manifold. I have never used or built one before. I'm not even sure yet that I will need a manifold but I want one in the event that I do.
The return pump is going to be a Jeabo DCP 20000. Its overkill but I would rather have more flow than needed and dial it back instead of not enough flow.

I'm thinking my manifold will be very simple with a straight shot across the top with multiple outlets. Of course that could change and the design could be much more intricate but for now in the planning stage, simple is better.

I am NOT a plumber. I have no idea about correct sizes or converting something with plumbing from this to that. No idea about metric to whatever we use here in the states. I can measure, cut and assemble pretty well as long as I have the CORRECT things to measure cut and assemble.

Can you PLEASE let me know exactly what I need to get and where I might get them from? I will install unions wherever I can. (learned about unions here on R2R). Please let me know where I should have them and what size I need.

To be honest, I don't know for sure. Red Sea has recently changed their barbed return assembly... so it depends on which one you have. If you have the old one, then I assume it's the same as mine and you can simply use a 3/4" MPT x 1" SLIP adapter. Since the Red Sea is 25mm thread, you will need to use extra Teflon tape to insure a leak free connection. This is the reason I'm working on manufacturing an imperial version of the Red Sea coupler. For one, you will not need to try and source extra Red Sea barbed return assemblies if you want to redo the pluming on all three pipes. And two, it would be the correct thread for all of us living in an imperial supporting country.

Nice....any issues with noise or burps having them submerged. Thanks

No, it would have noise if you didn't submerge them. You can't tell anything is even coming out of them with them submerged.
 

Dj City

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To be honest, I don't know for sure. Red Sea has recently changed their barbed return assembly... so it depends on which one you have. If you have the old one, then I assume it's the same as mine and you can simply use a 3/4" MPT x 1" SLIP adapter. Since the Red Sea is 25mm thread, you will need to use extra Teflon tape to insure a leak free connection. This is the reason I'm working on manufacturing an imperial version of the Red Sea coupler. For one, you will not need to try and source extra Red Sea barbed return assemblies if you want to redo the pluming on all three pipes. And two, it would be the correct thread for all of us living in an imperial supporting country.

I just got off the phone with Red Sea (Not very helpful).
They informed me that the design has changed but the fitting is the same.
That being said, Is it possible for you to let me know exactly what I need and how to make it work?
 

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