Lol. FWIW, my son and I just installed the RODI today. A Reefer 350, salt and rock are on their way and we’re building out a livestock list.
IMG_1421 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1413 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1411 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1412 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1415 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1416 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1417 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1420 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1424 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1418 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1419 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1425 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1427 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1428 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1431 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1434 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_1433 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
Thank you for the in depth detail. I would like to do this when mine arrives. I too plan on using a Bashsea skimmer and also was looking at their sump but am leaning towards a Geo sump.Well thank you! I wanted to run external just because they are more predictable and easier to tune... especially the Bashsea unit. However, I will now be running it in the new Bashsea sump that I am working on designing with them. But because of the design of their skimmer, it will perform the same regardless if it's in the sump or not. Water level in the sump will have no affect on the skimmer. I was going to plumb the skimmer externally and have it in the empty part of the cabinet on the right side. I moved all of my Apex gear to the basement, under the tank. But because of the design of the skimmer, it wasn't really going to be feasible to properly route plumbing etc and have it look good. So I will use the right side of the cabinet to mount/display a couple of their media reactors, externally plumbed and each running off of their own pump. Then also their waste collector that plumbs into the port on the skimmer cup.
So long story short, I am doing a 180. Instead of running everything off of the main return pump via a manifold, everything will have it's own pump. I am using a COR20 for the main return and a COR15 for the skimmer. Then a couple of Sicce .5 for the reactors. I am now obsessed with getting as much flow through the Red Sea plumbing as possible. The main bottleneck in the system is the Red Sea elbow at the top of the return stand pipe. So I took the time to come up with a high flow option that I could retrofit to the Red Sea stand pipe.
Here is what I did for the return pipe. If anyone wants to attempt this, I have all of the measurements for the length of the two new PVC sections; one to connect the elbow to the union and one to connect the elbow to the bulkhead. Also how much to cut off one side of the elbow and the backside of the bulkhead. Lastly, the part #'s for the bulkhead, elbow, union and Loc-Line adapter.... as those need to be exact parts in order to work with my measurements etc. Most importantly, always remember to seat your PVC all of the way into the socket when gluing and hold it there, with a lot of pressure for a good 20 seconds or so... longer when gluing to the ABS bulkhead.
DISCLAIMER: I do not know which tanks this will be an exact fit for. I have a 450... so I assume also the 425, 525, 350 and maybe the 250. Don't quote me on any of this though. Maybe more, maybe less!?!
Part #s
- 3/4" PVC Elbow: LASCO 806-007
- 25mm x 3/4" Union: LASCO 8697-025
- 3/4" Bulkhead - THREAD X SLIP: Bulk Reef Supply 202947
- NPT Connector for 3/4” Modular Hose - Loc-Line: Bulk Reef Supply 202807 You can then attach whatever Y fitting, segments, nozzles etc. I am currently using a 3/4" to 1/2" Y... as that's what I had on hand. But I will be switching it out for a 3/4 Y and 3/4" segments/nozzles for unrestricted flow. My flow sensor will tell me if it makes any difference.
As seen in this first image, there's a huge bottleneck on the Red Sea elbow compared to a 3/4" PVC elbow.
I went with a 3/4" bulkhead that is THREAD x SLIP. That way you can thread in a 3/4" Loc-Line adapter:
The first thing is to hog out the Red Sea saddle that locks into the top of the weir. There is a lip around the front edge that needs to be removed. I used a 1" sanding drum attached to a die grinder. Just keep sanding a way until the bulkhead slips through the front.
Unmodified saddle:
Modified saddle:
You will also want to grind down the backside to remove the threads... this is so the bulkhead retaining nut threads on far enough to clear for the 3/4" PVC elbow.
Next up is cutting a 1/2" off of the back of the bulkhead and a 1/2" off one end of the PVC elbow. Then simply gluing a small section of 3/4" PVC to the bulkhead to attach the elbow. You want the elbow and bulkhead to touch when glued. This should be a 7/8" long piece of 3/4" PVC... but you can double check the depth of the bulkhead and elbow, then add them together. But it should be really close to that or everything isn't going to line up in the overflow. NOTE: remember to thread the bulkhead nut on before you glue the elbow on:
I sourced a true union that is 3/4" x 25mm. Glue the union to the elbow assembly with a 2.5" length of 3/4" PVC pipe.
You will cut the Red Sea return stand pipe down to 15-7/8", measuring from the base of the pipe:
Finally, glue the 25mm side of the union to the fresh cut standpipe. NOTE: Don't forget to slide the union nut onto the standpipe first!
Then behold your new, high-flow return pipe!
Lastly, I used that same 1" drum sander to make room for the larger elbow that now sits under the overflow cover:
but this tank is not a 425xl it looks more the 525xl?
It is a Reefer 450... hence the thread title
What type of lighting are you using?? What bulbs??Current state of tank:
FTS by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
FTS + Stand by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_6030 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
I am absolutely no stranger to posting build threads on a forum, just not of a reef tank... it's always been of vehicles.
I started with my first reef setup a couple years ago with an Innovative Marine 30 gallon Fusion. Great all-in-one tank, but I decided I wanted something bigger and with separate sump etc. When I saw that Red Sea was going to be releasing their new Reefer series, I started saving my money. I received it about 4 weeks ago and have already got most of it up and running... here's what I got going on so far.
**First off, I want to thank my wife! She agreed that it would be a good idea to convert our dining room into a reef viewing room.**
Ran home from work to meet the freight driver and we put it in the garage. I did a quick visual inspection before I went back to work.
IMG_3820 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_3819 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
After work I did a quick leak test and all was good. I then proceeded to assemble the stand.
IMG_3825 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
I have (3) Hydra 52's going over it, so I got the rails all mounted before I shoved the stand up against wall.
IMG_3826 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
Had my neighbor pop over and help me heft this thing onto the stand. I will say that 5/8" glass isn't light. I quickly started toying with scape ideas:
IMG_3899 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
This is one of my helpers:
IMG_3887 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
Here is what I came up with on the scape... got it all cemented together so nothing budges. Also filled the tank with salt water and sand. There's plenty of clearance all around the rock for flow, cleaning of the back glass and swimming lanes for larger fish.
IMG_3937 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
Our viewing chairs arrived to help finish off the room. We still need to get a different light fixture for the room, but that's the least of my concerns at the moment.
IMG_3978 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
Next up, basement plumbing for salt water mixing, water changing etc!
I am currently using 3 of the Aqua Illumination Hydra 32HDs... I have been really happy with them so far.
Well thank you! I wanted to run external just because they are more predictable and easier to tune... especially the Bashsea unit. However, I will now be running it in the new Bashsea sump that I am working on designing with them. But because of the design of their skimmer, it will perform the same regardless if it's in the sump or not. Water level in the sump will have no affect on the skimmer. I was going to plumb the skimmer externally and have it in the empty part of the cabinet on the right side. I moved all of my Apex gear to the basement, under the tank. But because of the design of the skimmer, it wasn't really going to be feasible to properly route plumbing etc and have it look good. So I will use the right side of the cabinet to mount/display a couple of their media reactors, externally plumbed and each running off of their own pump. Then also their waste collector that plumbs into the port on the skimmer cup.
So long story short, I am doing a 180. Instead of running everything off of the main return pump via a manifold, everything will have it's own pump. I am using a COR20 for the main return and a COR15 for the skimmer. Then a couple of Sicce .5 for the reactors. I am now obsessed with getting as much flow through the Red Sea plumbing as possible. The main bottleneck in the system is the Red Sea elbow at the top of the return stand pipe. So I took the time to come up with a high flow option that I could retrofit to the Red Sea stand pipe.
Here is what I did for the return pipe. If anyone wants to attempt this, I have all of the measurements for the length of the two new PVC sections; one to connect the elbow to the union and one to connect the elbow to the bulkhead. Also how much to cut off one side of the elbow and the backside of the bulkhead. Lastly, the part #'s for the bulkhead, elbow, union and Loc-Line adapter.... as those need to be exact parts in order to work with my measurements etc. Most importantly, always remember to seat your PVC all of the way into the socket when gluing and hold it there, with a lot of pressure for a good 20 seconds or so... longer when gluing to the ABS bulkhead.
DISCLAIMER: I do not know which tanks this will be an exact fit for. I have a 450... so I assume also the 425, 525, 350 and maybe the 250. Don't quote me on any of this though. Maybe more, maybe less!?!
Part #s
- 3/4" PVC Elbow: LASCO 806-007
- 25mm x 3/4" Union: LASCO 8697-025
- 3/4" Bulkhead - THREAD X SLIP: Bulk Reef Supply 202947
- NPT Connector for 3/4” Modular Hose - Loc-Line: Bulk Reef Supply 202807 You can then attach whatever Y fitting, segments, nozzles etc. I am currently using a 3/4" to 1/2" Y... as that's what I had on hand. But I will be switching it out for a 3/4 Y and 3/4" segments/nozzles for unrestricted flow. My flow sensor will tell me if it makes any difference.
As seen in this first image, there's a huge bottleneck on the Red Sea elbow compared to a 3/4" PVC elbow.
I went with a 3/4" bulkhead that is THREAD x SLIP. That way you can thread in a 3/4" Loc-Line adapter:
The first thing is to hog out the Red Sea saddle that locks into the top of the weir. There is a lip around the front edge that needs to be removed. I used a 1" sanding drum attached to a die grinder. Just keep sanding a way until the bulkhead slips through the front.
Unmodified saddle:
Modified saddle:
You will also want to grind down the backside to remove the threads... this is so the bulkhead retaining nut threads on far enough to clear for the 3/4" PVC elbow.
Next up is cutting a 1/2" off of the back of the bulkhead and a 1/2" off one end of the PVC elbow. Then simply gluing a small section of 3/4" PVC to the bulkhead to attach the elbow. You want the elbow and bulkhead to touch when glued. This should be a 7/8" long piece of 3/4" PVC... but you can double check the depth of the bulkhead and elbow, then add them together. But it should be really close to that or everything isn't going to line up in the overflow. NOTE: remember to thread the bulkhead nut on before you glue the elbow on:
I sourced a true union that is 3/4" x 25mm. Glue the union to the elbow assembly with a 2.5" length of 3/4" PVC pipe.
You will cut the Red Sea return stand pipe down to 15-7/8", measuring from the base of the pipe:
Finally, glue the 25mm side of the union to the fresh cut standpipe. NOTE: Don't forget to slide the union nut onto the standpipe first!
Then behold your new, high-flow return pipe!
Lastly, I used that same 1" drum sander to make room for the larger elbow that now sits under the overflow cover:
Hey Broadfield, very informative and detailed post! I love your attention to detail. Do you have a flow meter and get a reading before and after this upgrade? I have started this exact same modification on my XXL 750 because I am only getting about 580 GPH out of my Vectra L2 and have come to the conclusion this has to be the reason. I have already converted all of the rest of the plumbing to 1".Well thank you! I wanted to run external just because they are more predictable and easier to tune... especially the Bashsea unit. However, I will now be running it in the new Bashsea sump that I am working on designing with them. But because of the design of their skimmer, it will perform the same regardless if it's in the sump or not. Water level in the sump will have no affect on the skimmer. I was going to plumb the skimmer externally and have it in the empty part of the cabinet on the right side. I moved all of my Apex gear to the basement, under the tank. But because of the design of the skimmer, it wasn't really going to be feasible to properly route plumbing etc and have it look good. So I will use the right side of the cabinet to mount/display a couple of their media reactors, externally plumbed and each running off of their own pump. Then also their waste collector that plumbs into the port on the skimmer cup.
So long story short, I am doing a 180. Instead of running everything off of the main return pump via a manifold, everything will have it's own pump. I am using a COR20 for the main return and a COR15 for the skimmer. Then a couple of Sicce .5 for the reactors. I am now obsessed with getting as much flow through the Red Sea plumbing as possible. The main bottleneck in the system is the Red Sea elbow at the top of the return stand pipe. So I took the time to come up with a high flow option that I could retrofit to the Red Sea stand pipe.
Here is what I did for the return pipe. If anyone wants to attempt this, I have all of the measurements for the length of the two new PVC sections; one to connect the elbow to the union and one to connect the elbow to the bulkhead. Also how much to cut off one side of the elbow and the backside of the bulkhead. Lastly, the part #'s for the bulkhead, elbow, union and Loc-Line adapter.... as those need to be exact parts in order to work with my measurements etc. Most importantly, always remember to seat your PVC all of the way into the socket when gluing and hold it there, with a lot of pressure for a good 20 seconds or so... longer when gluing to the ABS bulkhead.
DISCLAIMER: I do not know which tanks this will be an exact fit for. I have a 450... so I assume also the 425, 525, 350 and maybe the 250. Don't quote me on any of this though. Maybe more, maybe less!?!
Part #s
- 3/4" PVC Elbow: LASCO 806-007
- 25mm x 3/4" Union: LASCO 8697-025
- 3/4" Bulkhead - THREAD X SLIP: Bulk Reef Supply 202947
- NPT Connector for 3/4” Modular Hose - Loc-Line: Bulk Reef Supply 202807 You can then attach whatever Y fitting, segments, nozzles etc. I am currently using a 3/4" to 1/2" Y... as that's what I had on hand. But I will be switching it out for a 3/4 Y and 3/4" segments/nozzles for unrestricted flow. My flow sensor will tell me if it makes any difference.
As seen in this first image, there's a huge bottleneck on the Red Sea elbow compared to a 3/4" PVC elbow.
I went with a 3/4" bulkhead that is THREAD x SLIP. That way you can thread in a 3/4" Loc-Line adapter:
The first thing is to hog out the Red Sea saddle that locks into the top of the weir. There is a lip around the front edge that needs to be removed. I used a 1" sanding drum attached to a die grinder. Just keep sanding a way until the bulkhead slips through the front.
Unmodified saddle:
Modified saddle:
You will also want to grind down the backside to remove the threads... this is so the bulkhead retaining nut threads on far enough to clear for the 3/4" PVC elbow.
Next up is cutting a 1/2" off of the back of the bulkhead and a 1/2" off one end of the PVC elbow. Then simply gluing a small section of 3/4" PVC to the bulkhead to attach the elbow. You want the elbow and bulkhead to touch when glued. This should be a 7/8" long piece of 3/4" PVC... but you can double check the depth of the bulkhead and elbow, then add them together. But it should be really close to that or everything isn't going to line up in the overflow. NOTE: remember to thread the bulkhead nut on before you glue the elbow on:
I sourced a true union that is 3/4" x 25mm. Glue the union to the elbow assembly with a 2.5" length of 3/4" PVC pipe.
You will cut the Red Sea return stand pipe down to 15-7/8", measuring from the base of the pipe:
Finally, glue the 25mm side of the union to the fresh cut standpipe. NOTE: Don't forget to slide the union nut onto the standpipe first!
Then behold your new, high-flow return pipe!
Lastly, I used that same 1" drum sander to make room for the larger elbow that now sits under the overflow cover:
IMG_4609
