Brooklynella fir over 30 days and counting

[Sariena]

Hi there this is my first post here..sorry this is long but I wanted to cover all the bases and questions I see have been asked others with a bit of backstory...

I am fairly new to saltwater aquariums (5 months) and although for months I educated myself about the fish, suitability, requirements etc, I was severely under educated about the diseases that they arrived with and severity of marine diseases as compared to freshwater (have 6 freshwater display from cichlids to fully planted. 11 tanks in total with saltwater, hospital, quarantine, grow out etc)

I have a 20g tank I started with inverts and mixed corals..including harder to keep corals like Flowerpot.. and it is thriving so after quarantine, I added a firefish and a watchman goby..that tank appeared to be a success so I cycled a 50g for a FOWLR with uv, oversized protein skimmer, canister filter rated for 150g, 70g hob, Macro algae 60 lbs of dry coral rock etc)
Kh 170
PH 8.1
Nitrate <6
Calcium 450
Phosphate 0.02
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Salinity 1.025 ppt

This is my trial run as I have a empty 125g waiting to see if I will be successful...

I set up 3 quarantine tanks first and ordered my first batch of fish including..2x Oscellaris clowns. I was told that almost all clowns were captive bred..apparently not, found out later they were wild caught. All went fine for almost 3 weeks, no signs of disease, all eating fine.

So I moved them all into the empty cycled display as I needed the quarantine tanks for the next batch of ordered fish.. Shortly after the small clown started to concern me, had white patches, stopped eating and swimming around. I watched him closely and he died with 2 days..long story short after much reading and process of elimination I assumed he had brooklynella as when I H2O2 bathed him after reading this site, mucus and stuff peeled off him and was floating in the water.
I quickly got to work ordering everything from the USA in medication that I could (Im in Canada) and removed the second clown as a precaution. I bathed her as well (12.5 ml H202 in 10 cups water for 30 min) and again the same mucus.. she appeared that she would make it until the meds arrived but no...
Then my royal gramma, my coral beauty and Tonami Tang started showing symptoms...I finally got kordon rid ich plus..I can't seem to get 37% formalin so this was my choice...metroplex, paracleanse and kanaplex which took 2-3 weeks so I continued the baths on all the fish every 48 hrs cleaning the tanks and equipment with bleach each time.

Very long story short..I lost the gramma and the angel too as the meds didn't come in time

The chromis and damsels never seem to have gotten symptoms and I could not move them to one of the quarantine tanks as I had one with my surviving Tonami tang, one with a Bannerfish that came with a huge uronema spot ‍ one with anthias and a wrasse that came with flukes and god knows what but could have been whirling disease??..BTW I hate the practice of stores low dosing copper instead of quarantine/treating wild caught fish before selling to unsuspecting customers with no live guarantee for any amount of time. Those new fish died within 2-3 days out of the low copper even with medication. In freshwater, the stores guarantee from 3 days-2 weeks...but anyways that is for another thread.

So I took out all the live rock out of the display and soaked it for a week in bleach/freshwater, then freshwater with prime..and took out all the live sand and boiled it for 1 hr over 160 degrees then set it outside to dry for 20 days...

I treated the bare display with the chromis and damsels with hyposaltinity, kordon, and then H202 for 30 days as per this site recommendations aside from the overnight dosing as I work nights and don't have an auto doser.

I fed the damsels and chromis with alternating food/focus with paraclense, then food with metro and kanaplex, I converted and added 9 mollies some are juvenile ..to the tank which are still swimming fine without symptoms after 20 days.

So I think I stopped it in the tank without going completely fallow for 6 weeks plus the fish with symptoms were in it less than a week. Do you think I'm correct? Or do you think it's lying dormant and will come back?

Soooooo...
My tang however is still the problem. I have been H202 bathing 30 minutes and treating with metro, every 48 hours. And 2x weekly I feed him food with kanaplex. While he is in his bath, I completely disinfect his tank with bleach, new filters and 100% water change.

He has never stopped eating, does not appear sick but after a couple days I can see dark patches and he starts to hide more, and after each bath there is considerably less mucus that comes off him ..but it's still there after 30 days of this regimen..he is too the point he just swims into the net as he knows relief is coming.

How will I know when it is gone? When no slim comes off him? And if so, how long after before he is safe to go back? Poor bugger is small at 3.5 inches..but you can tell he is miserable in the 10g and my heart breaks for him.
Is there anything more I can do? This has got to be taking a toll on him.

Please note that no slim comes off him in the tank, just after the 30 min bath in h202. But I do see darkening patches on his skin that go light grey after the bath.

 

[KrisReef]

I’m not going to tell you how to proceed with medication because my track record with fish and medication is abysmal.

I hope that the tang can be released soon.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi there this is my first post here..sorry this is long but I wanted to cover all the bases and questions I see have been asked others with a bit of backstory...

I am fairly new to saltwater aquariums (5 months) and although for months I educated myself about the fish, suitability, requirements etc, I was severely under educated about the diseases that they arrived with and severity of marine diseases as compared to freshwater (have 6 freshwater display from cichlids to fully planted. 11 tanks in total with saltwater, hospital, quarantine, grow out etc)

I have a 20g tank I started with inverts and mixed corals..including harder to keep corals like Flowerpot.. and it is thriving so after quarantine, I added a firefish and a watchman goby..that tank appeared to be a success so I cycled a 50g for a FOWLR with uv, oversized protein skimmer, canister filter rated for 150g, 70g hob, Macro algae 60 lbs of dry coral rock etc)
Kh 170
PH 8.1
Nitrate <6
Calcium 450
Phosphate 0.02
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Salinity 1.025 ppt

This is my trial run as I have a empty 125g waiting to see if I will be successful...

I set up 3 quarantine tanks first and ordered my first batch of fish including..2x Oscellaris clowns. I was told that almost all clowns were captive bred..apparently not, found out later they were wild caught. All went fine for almost 3 weeks, no signs of disease, all eating fine.

So I moved them all into the empty cycled display as I needed the quarantine tanks for the next batch of ordered fish.. Shortly after the small clown started to concern me, had white patches, stopped eating and swimming around. I watched him closely and he died with 2 days..long story short after much reading and process of elimination I assumed he had brooklynella as when I H2O2 bathed him after reading this site, mucus and stuff peeled off him and was floating in the water.
I quickly got to work ordering everything from the USA in medication that I could (Im in Canada) and removed the second clown as a precaution. I bathed her as well (12.5 ml H202 in 10 cups water for 30 min) and again the same mucus.. she appeared that she would make it until the meds arrived but no...
Then my royal gramma, my coral beauty and Tonami Tang started showing symptoms...I finally got kordon rid ich plus..I can't seem to get 37% formalin so this was my choice...metroplex, paracleanse and kanaplex which took 2-3 weeks so I continued the baths on all the fish every 48 hrs cleaning the tanks and equipment with bleach each time.

Very long story short..I lost the gramma and the angel too as the meds didn't come in time

The chromis and damsels never seem to have gotten symptoms and I could not move them to one of the quarantine tanks as I had one with my surviving Tonami tang, one with a Bannerfish that came with a huge uronema spot ‍ one with anthias and a wrasse that came with flukes and god knows what but could have been whirling disease??..BTW I hate the practice of stores low dosing copper instead of quarantine/treating wild caught fish before selling to unsuspecting customers with no live guarantee for any amount of time. Those new fish died within 2-3 days out of the low copper even with medication. In freshwater, the stores guarantee from 3 days-2 weeks...but anyways that is for another thread.

So I took out all the live rock out of the display and soaked it for a week in bleach/freshwater, then freshwater with prime..and took out all the live sand and boiled it for 1 hr over 160 degrees then set it outside to dry for 20 days...

I treated the bare display with the chromis and damsels with hyposaltinity, kordon, and then H202 for 30 days as per this site recommendations aside from the overnight dosing as I work nights and don't have an auto doser.

I fed the damsels and chromis with alternating food/focus with paraclense, then food with metro and kanaplex, I converted and added 9 mollies some are juvenile ..to the tank which are still swimming fine without symptoms after 20 days.

So I think I stopped it in the tank without going completely fallow for 6 weeks plus the fish with symptoms were in it less than a week. Do you think I'm correct? Or do you think it's lying dormant and will come back?

Soooooo...
My tang however is still the problem. I have been H202 bathing 30 minutes and treating with metro, every 48 hours. And 2x weekly I feed him food with kanaplex. While he is in his bath, I completely disinfect his tank with bleach, new filters and 100% water change.

He has never stopped eating, does not appear sick but after a couple days I can see dark patches and he starts to hide more, and after each bath there is considerably less mucus that comes off him ..but it's still there after 30 days of this regimen..he is too the point he just swims into the net as he knows relief is coming.

How will I know when it is gone? When no slim comes off him? And if so, how long after before he is safe to go back? Poor bugger is small at 3.5 inches..but you can tell he is miserable in the 10g and my heart breaks for him.
Is there anything more I can do? This has got to be taking a toll on him.

Please note that no slim comes off him in the tank, just after the 30 min bath in h202. But I do see darkening patches on his skin that go light grey after the bath.

With the tang, these are shortcut methods and are not cures. If you are experiencing ich, best remedies are either Coppersafe treatment or Hyposalinity )1.009). You are in essence performing ich management which rarely wins over a given disease.
Paracleanse is a tonic and rendered useless despite its claims and the content of ingredients are low and metro should be used when absolutely needed and must be applied precisely at .5gm by weight.
fallow period is 6-8 weeks with the latter being ideal and 30 days minimum for treatment although there has been a mixture of medications in a short span of time.
Please post video of at least 30-40 seconds of fish and tank under white light brightness to further assess causes and remedies

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

I got to point out your tank seems overstocked, and stocked with aggressive fish and with fish that should be in larger tanks. It doesn't seem like a peaceful mix of fish for that tank size. The fish don't know you are upgrading later on, best to stock appropriately for the current tank size. Good luck with the fish

 

[Sariena]

With the tang, these are shortcut methods and are not cures. If you are experiencing ich, best remedies are either Coppersafe treatment or Hyposalinity )1.009). You are in essence performing ich management which rarely wins over a given disease.
Paracleanse is a tonic and rendered useless despite its claims and the content of ingredients are low and metro should be used when absolutely needed and must be applied precisely at .5gm by weight.
fallow period is 6-8 weeks with the latter being ideal and 30 days minimum for treatment although there has been a mixture of medications in a short span of time.
Please post video of at least 30-40 seconds of fish and tank under white light brightness to further assess causes and remedies

Hi thanks for the reply! I think it's brooklynella on the tang and read on here that tank transfer to sterile tank dosed with metro after a 30 minute h202 bath was the treatment method. I do not suspect Ich as I have never seen any spots on any fish in ..just slim coming off..will try to get a video tomorrow or the next as he already had his bath today.

As for the main tank I did do hypo for 30 days at 1.009 with no rock or sand..I bleached the rock and boiled/dried out the sand..so started again and now 30 days later sill no signs of anything in the main tank even after the addition of mollies

 

[Sariena]

I got to point out your tank seems overstocked, and stocked with aggressive fish and with fish that should be in larger tanks. It doesn't seem like a peaceful mix of fish for that tank size. The fish don't know you are upgrading later on, best to stock appropriately for the current tank size. Good luck with the fish

My 50 g only has 3 damsels, 1 wrasse and 1 chromis? My 20g has 2 fish ( goby and firefish)..and my quarantine has only 1? I own a 125g that all 6 will go into except the 2 in the 20g will go on when larger..they are all juveniles atm

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

My 50 g only has 3 damsels, 1 wrasse and 1 chromis? My 20g has 2 fish ( goby and firefish)..and my quarantine has only 1? I own a 125g that all 6 will go into except the 2 in the 20g will go on when larger..they are all juveniles atm

Sorry, I misunderstood which tank the tang and bannerfish were in, my bad.

 

[Sariena]

Sorry, I misunderstood which tank the tang and bannerfish were in, my bad.

No problem! It was a long post and I get hard to follow

 

[Sariena]

With the tang, these are shortcut methods and are not cures. If you are experiencing ich, best remedies are either Coppersafe treatment or Hyposalinity )1.009). You are in essence performing ich management which rarely wins over a given disease.
Paracleanse is a tonic and rendered useless despite its claims and the content of ingredients are low and metro should be used when absolutely needed and must be applied precisely at .5gm by weight.
fallow period is 6-8 weeks with the latter being ideal and 30 days minimum for treatment although there has been a mixture of medications in a short span of time.
Please post video of at least 30-40 seconds of fish and tank under white light brightness to further assess causes and remedies

Also thanks for the info on paracleanse..I was not aware and since I can't seem to get prazipro I thought it may be good for treating quarantined fish that may come on with internal parasites as it has praziquantel in it..what would you suggest to use in the future for fish that I'm quarantining? As it appears as soon as symptoms present in many cases, treatment is ify? Freshwater dips? I did try that but it only seemed to prolong the inevitable

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hi thanks for the reply! I think it's brooklynella on the tang and read on here that tank transfer to sterile tank dosed with metro after a 30 minute h202 bath was the treatment method. I do not suspect Ich as I have never seen any spots on any fish in ..just slim coming off..will try to get a video tomorrow or the next as he already had his bath today.

As for the main tank I did do hypo for 30 days at 1.009 with no rock or sand..I bleached the rock and boiled/dried out the sand..so started again and now 30 days later sill no signs of anything in the main tank even after the addition of mollies

Can you link to the post here that suggests metro, peroxide and moving the fish to treat brooklynella? I need to edit/fix that as that is not a good treatment. This site is so large that I can’t find and ferret out these out of date posts.
Formalin is the best treatment for Brook, but you won’t get that in Canada. Can you get ri y reef rally pro?

 

[Sariena]

Can you link to the post here that suggests metro, peroxide and moving the fish to treat brooklynella? I need to edit/fix that as that is not a good treatment. This site is so large that I can’t find and ferret out these out of date posts.
Formalin is the best treatment for Brook, but you won’t get that in Canada. Can you get ri y reef rally pro?

I will try to find it but this one https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hydrogen-peroxide.640232/#post-6845416 mentions it as well..although not sure it was the exact post as it looks different..I have been reading A LOT..and maybe I can get the reef rally..I seem to have found a loop hole that if I order from Amazon.com instead of the Canadian site and they Amazon has it in stock and it ahips to Canada.. it clears customs shhhh..that is how I got the metro..how should I proceed if I can get it? If I can't will bathing in the kordon work..I know it only has 11 % formalin? I also have Malachite green.

 

[Sariena]

Can you link to the post here that suggests metro, peroxide and moving the fish to treat brooklynella? I need to edit/fix that as that is not a good treatment. This site is so large that I can’t find and ferret out these out of date posts.
Formalin is the best treatment for Brook, but you won’t get that in Canada. Can you get ri y reef rally pro?

Also I could have hit a link posted as when I run a search I see the site humblefish has the method there but I know it mentioned a person named jessica dosing the tank as well which I did to the main. Sorry not much help. I'm actually crying that I have put him through this method for 30 days and it was wrong..I need to help this fish..we have become close and it will kill me if I fail him.

 

[Sariena]

Also I could have hit a link posted as when I run a search I see the site humblefish has the method there but I know it mentioned a person named jessica dosing the tank as well which I did to the main. Sorry not much help. I'm actually crying that I have put him through this method for 30 days and it was wrong..I need to help this fish..we have become close and it will kill me if I fail him.

 

[MnFish1]

With apologies - my brain couldn't handle all of the things you did and didn't do. You have a combination of multiple different protocols for multiple different fish - some of which have died some of which have not.

Hi there this is my first post here..sorry this is long but I wanted to cover all the bases and questions I see have been asked others with a bit of backstory...

Welcome

I am fairly new to saltwater aquariums (5 months) and although for months I educated myself about the fish, suitability, requirements etc, I was severely under educated about the diseases that they arrived with and severity of marine diseases as compared to freshwater (have 6 freshwater display from cichlids to fully planted. 11 tanks in total with saltwater, hospital, quarantine, grow out etc)

If you were severely undereducated - it would have been a good idea to figure that out after starting not one but multiple tanks?

I have a 20g tank I started with inverts and mixed corals..including harder to keep corals like Flowerpot.. and it is thriving so after quarantine, I added a firefish and a watchman goby..that tank appeared to be a success so I cycled a 50g for a FOWLR with uv, oversized protein skimmer, canister filter rated for 150g, 70g hob, Macro algae 60 lbs of dry coral rock etc)
Kh 170
PH 8.1
Nitrate <6
Calcium 450
Phosphate 0.02
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Salinity 1.025 ppt

Awesome.

This is my trial run as I have a empty 125g waiting to see if I will be successful...

I set up 3 quarantine tanks first and ordered my first batch of fish including..2x Oscellaris clowns. I was told that almost all clowns were captive bred..apparently not, found out later they were wild caught. All went fine for almost 3 weeks, no signs of disease, all eating fine.

You should have verified that the clowns you were getting were captive bred - if you did not get captive bred clowns from a company that said they were, you should complain to them/ask for a refund.

So I moved them all into the empty cycled display as I needed the quarantine tanks for the next batch of ordered fish..

You are ordering too many fish. IMHO.

Shortly after the small clown started to concern me, had white patches, stopped eating and swimming around. I watched him closely and he died with 2 days..long story short after much reading and process of elimination I assumed he had brooklynella as when I H2O2 bathed him after reading this site, mucus and stuff peeled off him and was floating in the water.

That does not mean it had brooklynella - that is not a diagnostic test - however - it very well could have been brooklynella.

I quickly got to work ordering everything from the USA in medication that I could (Im in Canada) and removed the second clown as a precaution. I bathed her as well (12.5 ml H202 in 10 cups water for 30 min) and again the same mucus.. she appeared that she would make it until the meds arrived but no...

Baths are a delaying tactic not a treatment.

Then my royal gramma, my coral beauty and Tonami Tang started showing symptoms...I finally got kordon rid ich plus..I can't seem to get 37% formalin so this was my choice...metroplex, paracleanse and kanaplex which took 2-3 weeks so I continued the baths on all the fish every 48 hrs cleaning the tanks and equipment with bleach each time.

Many of these fish do not get brooklynella - and it could be they had velvet - there is no way to know - and all of your baths were likely not likely to have helped.

Very long story short..I lost the gramma and the angel too as the meds didn't come in time

Sorry to hear.

The chromis and damsels never seem to have gotten symptoms and I could not move them to one of the quarantine tanks as I had one with my surviving Tonami tang, one with a Bannerfish that came with a huge uronema spot ‍ one with anthias and a wrasse that came with flukes and god knows what but could have been whirling disease??..

It's impossible for anyone here to say what happened - based on the information.

BTW I hate the practice of stores low dosing copper instead of quarantine/treating wild caught fish before selling to unsuspecting customers with no live guarantee for any amount of time. Those new fish died within 2-3 days out of the low copper even with medication. In freshwater, the stores guarantee from 3 days-2 weeks...but anyways that is for another thread.

Correct - its for another thread.

So I took out all the live rock out of the display and soaked it for a week in bleach/freshwater, then freshwater with prime..and took out all the live sand and boiled it for 1 hr over 160 degrees then set it outside to dry for 20 days...

I would never boil rock or sand from a tank - due to potential toxin release. Additionally most of the things you did seem to be overkill.

I treated the bare display with the chromis and damsels with hyposaltinity, kordon, and then H202 for 30 days as per this site recommendations aside from the overnight dosing as I work nights and don't have an auto doser.

None of these things are recommended on this site that I'm aware of (at least the way you presented it)

I fed the damsels and chromis with alternating food/focus with paraclense, then food with metro and kanaplex, I converted and added 9 mollies some are juvenile ..to the tank which are still swimming fine without symptoms after 20 days.

You should not use multiple medications - either in a tank or food without a reason - and you had no reason - the fact the mollies are doing well makes no difference IMHO.

So I think I stopped it in the tank without going completely fallow for 6 weeks plus the fish with symptoms were in it less than a week. Do you think I'm correct? Or do you think it's lying dormant and will come back?

what is 'it'

Soooooo...
My tang however is still the problem. I have been H202 bathing 30 minutes and treating with metro, every 48 hours. And 2x weekly I feed him food with kanaplex. While he is in his bath, I completely disinfect his tank with bleach, new filters and 100% water change.

There is no rationale for this, bathing a tang every 30 minutes is too much stress - and metronidazole does not treat what you're trying to treat and kanaplex should not be given orally. The bleach new filters and water changes are a waste of time IMHO - unless there is something you're not telling us.

He has never stopped eating, does not appear sick but after a couple days I can see dark patches and he starts to hide more, and after each bath there is considerably less mucus that comes off him ..but it's still there after 30 days of this regimen..he is too the point he just swims into the net as he knows relief is coming.

Without a picture, etc - no one will know. your 'regimen' is probably doing more harm than good.

How will I know when it is gone? When no slim comes off him? And if so, how long after before he is safe to go back? Poor bugger is small at 3.5 inches..but you can tell he is miserable in the 10g and my heart breaks for him.
Is there anything more I can do? This has got to be taking a toll on him.

When what is gone? No offense you don't know what going one to begin with - and I'm sorry for all of your fish - especially the tang - and I agree with you its taking a toll on him.

Please note that no slim comes off him in the tank, just after the 30 min bath in h202. But I do see darkening patches on his skin that go light grey after the bath.

no comment

 

[Sariena]

Can you link to the post here that suggests metro, peroxide and moving the fish to treat brooklynella? I need to edit/fix that as that is not a good treatment. This site is so large that I can’t find and ferret out these out of date posts.
Formalin is the best treatment for Brook, but you won’t get that in Canada. Can you get ri y reef rally pro?

OK I got the 32 fl oz of Rally pro..it's supposed to be here by the 8th of December...I also found formaldehyde 37% but it won't be here until January 16th so I ordered it just in case I will need it again.. the tang won't need it. Should I keep up the baths until the Rally arrives to keep it from getting worse? And when it arrives, should I follow the bottle directions or do you suggest a more aggressive approach?

 

[Sariena]

With apologies - my brain couldn't handle all of the things you did and didn't do. You have a combination of multiple different protocols for multiple different fish - some of which have died some of which have not.

Yes sorry..I had to try different methods to keep what I believe was brooklynella at bay until I could get medication shipped to me. I'm in Canada so very little available in the way of medication aside from melafix. I did not do all at once sorry for the confusion.

Welcome

If you were severely undereducated - it would have been a good idea to figure that out after starting not one but multiple tanks?

I started with a 20g with coral and 2 fish..5 months ago..and it is thriving with no issues..so 2.5 mths ago I set up a 50 gallon as a grow out..I own a 125g that all fish would go in to when ready..and 3 quarantines as I don't like to mix fish from different tanks/stores in the same quarantine to avoid contamination. The problems did not arise until I ordered fish and had them shipped to me. The other freshwater tanks I have had for a decade plus.

Awesome.

You should have verified that the clowns you were getting were captive bred - if you did not get captive bred clowns from a company that said they were, you should complain to them/ask for a refund.

Yes I know that now, but was told that all clowfish are captive bred now..will not make that mistake again.

You are ordering too many fish. IMHO.

? How else do you get them? Where I live there are no marine fish stores we have one super store about 1.5 hrs away but I never liked how healthy the freshwaterfish are there so didn'twant to chance it.

That does not mean it had brooklynella - that is not a diagnostic test - however - it very well could have been brooklynella.

True but the 2 diseases I did know about were ich and velvet..and none of the fish ever got any spots, swam into the wavemaker etc. The symptoms sounded and looked like all the pictures of brooklynella I found online.

Baths are a delaying tactic not a treatment.

I see that now

Many of these fish do not get brooklynella - and it could be they had velvet - there is no way to know - and all of your baths were likely not likely to have helped.

i have wached many videos of angels and tangs with brooklynella so I assumed that the royal gramma had it too..you could be right.

Sorry to hear.


It's impossible for anyone here to say what happened - based on the information.

I understand and I wish I had if taken pictures of them before they died to upload and of what came off them after the bath..it was a stringy slime

Correct - its for another thread.

I would never boil rock or sand from a tank - due to potential toxin release. Additionally most of the things you did seem to be overkill.

I didn't boil the rock, I read it could explode. I soaked it in bleach/freshwater..the sand I boiled as I read a study that boiling for 1 hr above 160 degrees kills everything..including eggs if there was any. Was going scorched earth to irradicte it as I didn't have another tank to put the damsels and chromis..and as they never appeared sick, I did not want to put them in quarantine with the sick fish to allow the tank to go fallow for 6 weeks..so bleach and boiling was what I tried.

None of these things are recommended on this site that I'm aware of (at least the way you presented it)

I added a link and screenshot of another site where I got the information. I know now is wrong and Jay has set me straight..have ordered Rally pro and formaldehyde 37% for future issues as per his advice.

You should not use multiple medications - either in a tank or food without a reason - and you had no reason - the fact the mollies are doing well makes no difference IMHO.

So using freshwater mollies is also wrong? Serious question, I read that they could let you know if there is still a marine pathogen in the tank. I did not add any medication after I added the mollies because that would defeat the purpose yes? I did dose metro as per what I read (now I know was wrong) and kanaplex as I was afraid the parasite when it died would leave damaged tissue that may get an infection.

what is 'it'

There is no rationale for this, bathing a tang every 30 minutes is too much stress

I'm not bathing every 30 minutes..I'm doing a 30 min bath every 48 hours

- and metronidazole does not treat what you're trying to treat and kanaplex should not be given orally.

I now get that about the metro..but I respectfully disagree about the kanaplex. It is the preferred method in freshwater when you have sensitive fish or shrimp..kanaplex can be added to food with focus and fed.

The bleach new filters and water changes are a waste of time IMHO - unless there is something you're not telling us.

What would I not be telling you? I was trying to irradicate all traces of any disease, parasite that may have fallen off the fish into the substrate or rocks

Without a picture, etc - no one will know. your 'regimen' is probably doing more harm than good.

Sadly I suspect you're right..I will get a picture in a couple days..as the tang looks good after thw bath he had today..but usually it creeps back after 2 or 3 days

When what is gone? No offense you don't know what going one to begin with - and I'm sorry for all of your fish - especially the tang - and I agree with you its taking a toll on him.

That is why I'm here

no comment

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I will try to find it but this one https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hydrogen-peroxide.640232/#post-6845416 mentions it as well..although not sure it was the exact post as it looks different..I have been reading A LOT..and maybe I can get the reef rally..I seem to have found a loop hole that if I order from Amazon.com instead of the Canadian site and they Amazon has it in stock and it ahips to Canada.. it clears customs shhhh..that is how I got the metro..how should I proceed if I can get it? If I can't will bathing in the kordon work..I know it only has 11 % formalin? I also have Malachite green.

Thanks for the link. That’s an old post, but it is a regular post, not a “sticky” so I try not to edit those. It is full of errors though. Just to point one out, he says you can’t use plastic bowls for the dip. But, wait, they sell peroxide in plastic bottles (grin). Then, peroxide is an oxidant. Like ozone and chlorine, you cannot just use a set dose. The amount of active oxidizer is based on how much is left after organics in the water have been reacted with. That differs in each tank, and it differs over time in the same tank. Bottom line, you need test strips to accurately dose it.

The problem with trying to use formalin malachite green mixtures is that to get the formalin high enough, you’ll overdose the fish with malachite green.

I wonder if you could get formalin from a lab or pharmacy?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I will try to find it but this one https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hydrogen-peroxide.640232/#post-6845416 mentions it as well..although not sure it was the exact post as it looks different..I have been reading A LOT..and maybe I can get the reef rally..I seem to have found a loop hole that if I order from Amazon.com instead of the Canadian site and they Amazon has it in stock and it ahips to Canada.. it clears customs shhhh..that is how I got the metro..how should I proceed if I can get it? If I can't will bathing in the kordon work..I know it only has 11 % formalin? I also have Malachite green.

This is a 2019 post and has been revised more than once- Be careful what you read

 

[Sariena]

Thanks for the link. That’s an old post, but it is a regular post, not a “sticky” so I try not to edit those. It is full of errors though. Just to point one out, he says you can’t use plastic bowls for the dip. But, wait, they sell peroxide in plastic bottles (grin). Then, peroxide is an oxidant. Like ozone and chlorine, you cannot just use a set dose. The amount of active oxidizer is based on how much is left after organics in the water have been reacted with. That differs in each tank, and it differs over time in the same tank. Bottom line, you need test strips to accurately dose it.

The problem with trying to use formalin malachite green mixtures is that to get the formalin high enough, you’ll overdose the fish with malachite green.

I wonder if you could get formalin from a lab or pharmacy?

I

Thanks for the link. That’s an old post, but it is a regular post, not a “sticky” so I try not to edit those. It is full of errors though. Just to point one out, he says you can’t use plastic bowls for the dip. But, wait, they sell peroxide in plastic bottles (grin). Then, peroxide is an oxidant. Like ozone and chlorine, you cannot just use a set dose. The amount of active oxidizer is based on how much is left after organics in the water have been reacted with. That differs in each tank, and it differs over time in the same tank. Bottom line, you need test strips to accurately dose it.

The problem with trying to use formalin malachite green mixtures is that to get the formalin high enough, you’ll overdose the fish with malachite green.

I wonder if you could get formalin from a lab or pharmacy?

Ah yes makes sense, I didn't

This is a 2019 post and has been revised more than once- Be careful what you read

I get that now..I've read so much everywhere and am desperate to help my fish so was willing to try everything.

 

[Sariena]

Thanks for the link. That’s an old post, but it is a regular post, not a “sticky” so I try not to edit those. It is full of errors though. Just to point one out, he says you can’t use plastic bowls for the dip. But, wait, they sell peroxide in plastic bottles (grin). Then, peroxide is an oxidant. Like ozone and chlorine, you cannot just use a set dose. The amount of active oxidizer is based on how much is left after organics in the water have been reacted with. That differs in each tank, and it differs over time in the same tank. Bottom line, you need test strips to accurately dose it.

The problem with trying to use formalin malachite green mixtures is that to get the formalin high enough, you’ll overdose the fish with malachite green.

I wonder if you could get formalin from a lab or pharmacy?

Ah ha now I see, in my panic I missed the logical red flags. I can not get formalin at all here, but I ordered Rally reef pro from the US should be here by Dec 8th..and ordered a small bottle of 37% formaldehyde (all they had on Amazon that ships here) but it won't get here until mid January so hopefully the Tang won't need it by then as the rally worked.. fingers crossed. Should I continue the dips minus the metro until it arrives to keep it at bay at least?