In one of the BRS cycling videos they’re saying to add a clown fish or two to your tank and just pour in some Dr. Tim’s one and only. And Then test the water every day. It doesn’t say anything about ammonia drops or testing every day before adding fish. Is this an appropriate use of Dr. Tim’s? What gives?
BRS Aquarium cycling YouTube video?
- Thread starter Walleye34
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Either way is ok, the fish in version or the liquid ammonia version, both work we can see in searches. People are concerned about skipping fish disease preps nowadays, it’s why liquid ammonia is more popular.
Thank you! And I’ve been researching all this stuff nonstop for the last couple months. The problem is there’s so much contradicting info they can get very confusing. How does the ammonia route help with disease prep?
Ugg I agree cycling stuff is confusing there is a mix of sales and science, the two not always agreeing
the context for those two options above is that both will feed the bacteria one might add with bottled bacteria. So would a pinch of fish food as it breaks down into ammonia, all the same ends. The added bottle bac are so hungry for ammonia they don’t let it build up, so fish added wont die in their own waste if someone chose that route.
Today’s best fish disease control involves waiting nearly three months to add fish, in an approach called fallow tank prep
months without fish to attach to / feed on / kills off most known disease agents. The aquarist at the right time would add healthy fish with no disease (they were quarantined) and that approach means the fish are best prepped.
fish-in cycling works, feeds bacteria so they can multiply, but it skips fallow prep and the fish added for ammonia production also immediately seed the tank with disease agents which feed on those fish, they’re never starved in fallow prep
**i have ran online cycle threads where we did actually opt for two clowns at the start, we skipped fallow. The rationale was, clowns are mass produced nowadays and every nano on the planet has some, they’re rather tough, and the aquarist didn’t want a big mix of fish they wanted two clowns in a 30 g nano so we did, and they’re fine. They have a disease risk but it’s low, whereas the reefs you see with mixed fish certainly wouldn’t be ok mixing different strength fish in a soup of non fallow water. most people want more than just clownfish, so we advocate the fallow approach for typical reef tanks.
the context for those two options above is that both will feed the bacteria one might add with bottled bacteria. So would a pinch of fish food as it breaks down into ammonia, all the same ends. The added bottle bac are so hungry for ammonia they don’t let it build up, so fish added wont die in their own waste if someone chose that route.
Today’s best fish disease control involves waiting nearly three months to add fish, in an approach called fallow tank prep
months without fish to attach to / feed on / kills off most known disease agents. The aquarist at the right time would add healthy fish with no disease (they were quarantined) and that approach means the fish are best prepped.
fish-in cycling works, feeds bacteria so they can multiply, but it skips fallow prep and the fish added for ammonia production also immediately seed the tank with disease agents which feed on those fish, they’re never starved in fallow prep
**i have ran online cycle threads where we did actually opt for two clowns at the start, we skipped fallow. The rationale was, clowns are mass produced nowadays and every nano on the planet has some, they’re rather tough, and the aquarist didn’t want a big mix of fish they wanted two clowns in a 30 g nano so we did, and they’re fine. They have a disease risk but it’s low, whereas the reefs you see with mixed fish certainly wouldn’t be ok mixing different strength fish in a soup of non fallow water. most people want more than just clownfish, so we advocate the fallow approach for typical reef tanks.
Thanks for the reply. It’s much appreciated. I am planning on having a lot more fish then just clowns. And this is where things get tricky. I am just getting into the hobby and just spend a ton of money getting my 90 gallon set up. And have no means whatsoever of quarantining fish. I will have to decide on which approach I want to take. I want a successful reef tank. And I’m willing to be patient , but What’s the use of waiting mouths if the fish that I am introducing haven’t been Quarantined. The more questions answered the more questions that arise lol. I mean how many people in this hobby have the resources to have a quarantine tank. Like I said I’ve put a lot of time and effort into this and just want to get it right
That’s indeed the right summary for the state of fish + reefing nowadays.
If it’s any consolation, -only- the fish are the hassle
meaning proper fallow comes after your whole tank is stocked, just shy of fish. It’s an active, vibrant reef you can make, then you just stop adding stuff (still feed) for 80 days, and that’s fallow. Not a boring tank, but a full reef moving feeding and motioning in the tank etc
so wierd I know, the huge hassle.
anything hard scape added in the future, like a snail or coral, has to come through fallow on its own/ separate system or the entire efforts are neutralized, its really tricky that approach. **people sell and ship quarantined fish nowadays, could be shipped to your lfs then you pick them up
it is true that to be a large reef owner, a separate sub system is pretty much required.
*in a different room if you can believe it. Part of the summary of the fish disease forum above also includes the fact some diseases are transmitting via aerosols when kept in the same room ugg!
well at least that above distills twelve hours of fish disease reading. Make a nano reef lol it’ll be far less headache.
If it’s any consolation, -only- the fish are the hassle
meaning proper fallow comes after your whole tank is stocked, just shy of fish. It’s an active, vibrant reef you can make, then you just stop adding stuff (still feed) for 80 days, and that’s fallow. Not a boring tank, but a full reef moving feeding and motioning in the tank etcso wierd I know, the huge hassle.
anything hard scape added in the future, like a snail or coral, has to come through fallow on its own/ separate system or the entire efforts are neutralized, its really tricky that approach. **people sell and ship quarantined fish nowadays, could be shipped to your lfs then you pick them up
it is true that to be a large reef owner, a separate sub system is pretty much required.
*in a different room if you can believe it. Part of the summary of the fish disease forum above also includes the fact some diseases are transmitting via aerosols when kept in the same room ugg!
well at least that above distills twelve hours of fish disease reading. Make a nano reef lol it’ll be far less headache.
You seem to be well educated on the subject. In your opinion would it be worth going the long route if I have no way to quarantine in the fish in the first place? I wouldn’t think the average referral would have a quarantine tank in their house. But maybe I’m mistaken
I’m 100% sure that the way the fish trade works nowadays, disease frequency of velvet, crypto ich, anyone trying the old school approach of + add fish and even work better than normal on feeding and water changes has an 80% chance of total fish loss within six months. They’re trading rough fish at all lfs nowadays. Order the good quarantined ones have em shipped
we must account for outliers you can search out (I added ten fish they’re fine etc) and then something accounts for nearly all entrants in the fish disease forum here being fallow skipped setups, it’s 80/20 for sure I’d testify in a reef ct of law. I don’t keep any reef fish, these are web post trends reported over years + reading posts from Humblefish.
we must account for outliers you can search out (I added ten fish they’re fine etc) and then something accounts for nearly all entrants in the fish disease forum here being fallow skipped setups, it’s 80/20 for sure I’d testify in a reef ct of law. I don’t keep any reef fish, these are web post trends reported over years + reading posts from Humblefish.
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TerraFerma
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If you go the long route and don't QT fish then it is all for naught. Just set up a simple 10/20 gallon tank on the floor and treat your new fish in there.
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