Bryopsis Cure: My Battle With Bryopsis Using Fluconazole

Did Fluconazole Kill all of your Bryopsis?

  • Yes

  • No

  • I'm treating my tank with it now.

  • I love Bryopsis and I'm mad that everyone is killing it.


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rockstarta78

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Sad to report my bryopsis are back after about 2 months. Initially I had bryopsis and treated with Fluco, it was gone in little over 14 days, and then I started having Dino attack. I raised my NO3 and PO4 since they were both reading 0, and Dino is going away. Now, dino is being replaced by Bryopsis and GHA. I am cursed with algae. Treated my tank with Fluco on Monday, let's see what happens.
 

Brandon42

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UPDATE: it's been a little over 6 months sense I ran my first fluco treatment, I never had bryopsis I only had a horrific GHA issue. I was about to put a lot of work into my system and needed it gone then. Here are some before pictures.

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As you can see I had it pretty bad, it seemed no matter what I did, no matter how many water changes, rock scrubbing, or things I added to the tank did anything to fight it back. I dosed my 125 gallon with a 30 gallon sump with 20 capsules from Payless pet product. 200mg each I believe. After 21 days my tank looked like this.

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Now the pictures make it look amazing but the gha was still present. The fluco had taken out a solid 85% but there was still some in the lower light areas. I had done a pretty large upgrade to my sump right before these pictures were taken and was hoping that plus carbon dosing would handle the rest. I was wrong.
My Gha stayed minimal for the first couple weeks but about 3 weeks in it all started creeping in again. I decided to try fluco again before it started getting too out of control and ran another 20 capsules through the system. This time i got the same out come. About 85% gha destroyed but still that lingering bit in the low light areas which I had even made sure to adjust lights through the treatment to hit those areas harder. But just like the last time a couple of weeks went by and it started creeping up again. Now I know what you're thinking by now this guys nutrients must be out of control for this to keep happening but through almost this whole time my nitrates never went about 5ppm and phosphate at .16. I started carbon dosing after the first treatment with vodka and had been keeping up on that through the whole process. It seemed to be working for nutrients but all the gha needed was the light. I had finally had it with the GHA and was thinking about tearing my tank down hitting the rocks with acid and re curing them in darkness but I figured I would give the fluco one last shot.
This time I wasn't messing around I increased carbon dosing until nitrate was at near 0, increased my light times and intensity, I left my skimmer cup off for the full two weeks, did a 60% water change and increased the dose to 30 capsules. I'm happy to say this was the death blow to the gha. After 18 days I was 100% gha free. I did another 60% water change started running lots of carbon, Gfo, and continued carbon dosing. It's been a couple of months now and this is my tank today:

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Still 100% gha free.

Things iv learned through this process:
-Sea hares do not do well with fluco I lost two going through treatments that were other wise fine before.
- Light definitely plays a large roll in how the treatment works.
- Mushrooms also do not like fluco, didn't lose any but they suffered.
- you need to drop your nutrients as low as possible before the treatment to account for the massive die off that will take place in your tank.
- water change after needs to be much larger again to account for the mass die off happening in the tank. You need to get your water back to absolute perfect as quickly as possible after treatment or you are leaving the tank with perfect conditions to bring the gha back.
- skimmer should not be ran at all for the first couple days and then only with out cup after day 3.

I think a lot of people are hoping it's just a cure all and it is but if you don't solve the root cause of the issue before treatment and then remove the new root cause (i.e. The die off that happened in your tank during treatment) it will just keep returning. Just my two cents though! Happy reefing!

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Susan Edwards

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Like last time, I waited 9 days to put the skimmer back on, with the cup, doing a very dry skim as my tank water quality is awful with stuff floating around. Many of the areas that didn't go away from treatment 1 have mostly gone away. Still some tiny bits under rocks where there is no light. Tomorrow I'll check out all areas when the lights are back on. I'll try to go over the 14 days then see what happens. If it needs a 3rd dose, I'll hit it harder but will give tank a chance to clean out and get some maintenance done like cleaning the sump. At least now that I know of this secret weapon, whenever it returns, if it does, I know I can just hit the tank. Right now there is no fish but I still have to feed sun corals, shrimp and snails--everyone's hungry as there isn't much algae <g> or fish waste. And maybe what is under the rocks is gha. Corals are all doing well as well as an incredible pod population! Will ck refugium tank tomorrow to see if that last spot is gone. Redosed over the weekend
 

mcarroll

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@Brandon42 It might be a coincidence, but it seems like the problem may have initially gotten away from you due to a lack of cleanup crew (which generally love hair algae).

I think I only see one snail in all of the "before" photos.

In the "after" photos there are multiple CUC in every photo.

So did you also boost your CUC in addition to other efforts?
 

Brandon42

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@Brandon42 It might be a coincidence, but it seems like the problem may have initially gotten away from you due to a lack of cleanup crew (which generally love hair algae).

I think I only see one snail in all of the "before" photos.

In the "after" photos there are multiple CUC in every photo.

So did you also boost your CUC in addition to other efforts?


Ahh this is a pointer I missed in there. I did actually do this twice. I had roughly 30-40 snails, 5-10 hermits and a sea hare when I went through my first treatment. I lost my sea hare through the first treatment. Honestly the sea hare hadn't really touched the gha until the fluco went in the tank. Then he went on overdrive for days mowing down tons of it and then one day just curled up and stopped moving. At first I thought it was just a coincidence being that sea hares are generally hard to keep anyway. But yo can see in the full tank shot on the first after there is a pile of snails right in front. After my first treatment I got a pack of about 200 snails from reefcleaners.org hoping that a larger clean up crew would keep my issue from coming back but it did not. When it started getting bad again I bought even more snails, emerald crabs, and another sea hare. The sea hare suffered the same fate when I ran fluco again but the rest of the crew did great.
I think cuc does play a huge role in this treatment but if you don't handle the nutrient issue no amount of cuc is gonna keep it away.
 

mcarroll

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@Brandon42 It's hard to be sure from your summary, but it sounds like there were never that many snails or crabs per gallon even at the peak. (I know that wasn't 200 Turbo snails, right?)

A big crop of algae in a well fed tank can keep a big crew of grazers fed! Did your fish ever eat it? (I think you had tangs too right?)
 

Brandon42

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@Brandon42 It's hard to be sure from your summary, but it sounds like there were never that many snails or crabs per gallon even at the peak. (I know that wasn't 200 Turbo snails, right?)

A big crop of algae in a well fed tank can keep a big crew of grazers fed! Did your fish ever eat it? (I think you had tangs too right?)

You know Iv never seen my tangs pick at it But I guess yeah if you're going by what most of the internet says is the right amount no I didn't have enough of a clean up crew when I first went into the first treatment but Iv always felt those snails/per gallon numbers were too high. even after beefing it up to almost 250 total most have died off from lack of algae after the third round of fluco. I try to not clean the glass as often for them lately lol. But I would say I'm down to around 100 at the most and that number seems to hold perfectly. According to most sites that sell cuc I need around 350.
Also no they are not all turbos I have 3 turbos and a mix of bumble bee snails, and 3 others I can remember the name of right now. 2 emerald crabs as well.
 

Daniel@R2R

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About to give this a shot! Wish me luck! :)
 

mcarroll

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The trick is obviously matching the CUC population to the actual need for them in the tank. Guidelines that don't account for how your tank looks are going to be hard for "everyone" to follow too closely. A tank with massive green hair algae growth has "slightly different" CUC needs from a brand new tank with nothing but pale-grey rock in the tank. ;)

Also, I don't think bumble bees are algae eaters, are they?

Turbo's would have been the population to escalate when you weren't getting traction IMO – hard for folks to recommend them in a lot of cases since they're so big...myself included....but cases like yours (pre-treatment) are what they are really meant for.

Before treatment, did you have a majority of any particular kind of snail? (Maybe pics if you can't remember names?)
 

mcarroll

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You know Iv never seen my tangs pick at it

If they're conditioned to eat flakes and pellets, they may not touch algae. In the future, try withholding both flake and pellet food to see if they'll start going to the algae. Whole foods like Mysis doesn't seem to have the same effect so you can keep feeding these things.
 

Khalifa Alhaddad

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*******Important*******

Please read the Frequently Asked Questions(FAQs) located right after the pictures before you treat your tank.It should answer most of your questions and help you avoid some mistakes.

First, I want to say that I am in no way shape or form telling anyone that they should try this in their tank.(at least not until we see how this goes) Yes Fluconazole can be used as an anti-bacterial med for fish diseases and I haven't seen any adverse reactions from using it, but I just don't want anyone to come back and say that they killed their fish/corals or inverts and blame me. This was not my discovery as I am just following what some others have already done. If you try this it is at your own risk and don't shoot the messenger. :)


Okay so like I have said in another Fluconazole thread,I always inspect and QT everything before it goes into my tank. I had several frags in qt for a few weeks and all seamed fine. Before transferring them to my DT I brushed off what looked like regular green surface algae and thought nothing of it.Well after about a month all three frags had a healthy helping of Bryopsis growing on them.
I've had to deal with this years ago so I know what kind of a struggle it can be. I did not want to just sit around and hope this cleared itself up because I knew this could get really bad.I had a tank full of Bryopsis years ago and tried everything I could to get rid of it and it just kept spreading everywhere.
Finally after gallons and gallons (system was almost 400gls)of Kent Tech M I was able to melt the Bryopsis away but it was no picnic.

Now, after learning that Kent Tech M has changed and doesn't work anymore or is hit or miss now,I read about some people having success against Bryopsis using Vibrant.I tried Vibrant for a couple of months and it did damage the Bryopsis fern/fan leaves but it wouldn't kill it off completely. I know people say to just give it more time but let me show you what can happen when you give Bryopsis time in your tank.(BTW I'm not knocking Vibrant or @UWC I think he has been a stand up guy on this forum and some people have had great success using their products)

They did not call me the Bryopsis King for no reason........

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It was like this across the entire tank. Notice for you tang lovers out there that mine had no interest what so ever in eating any of the Bryopsis.If they would have kept the rocks picked clean this would not have reached being the forest that you see.I have more pics but it's ugly and I think you get the picture.As you can see,this would be my reason for NOT wanting to wait too long on this.

Anyway this brings me up to using Fluconazole. After searching the good ole web I found that some people(some over seas) were using Fluconazole in a one time dose to kill off Byropsis. At first I thought that this was too good to be true.I mean most people were saying that their tanks were Bryopsis free in about 10-15 days give or take a few days. Then they started posting before and after pics and also saying that they had not lost any fish or corals!! OMG sign me up! I thought. Well after doing a little more research I found out that Fluconazole can be used to treat infections/diseases in fish and that the dosage I would need to use was considered somewhat "safe" for the fish so I placed an order..

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There were two different dosages that were being used. One was 9mg/L and the other was 150mg/30L which is 5mg/L. I have 200 gallons of total water volume in this system which is 757L. So 757L x 9mg/L would be a dose of 6813mg. 757L x 5mg/L would be a dose of 3785mg.
I went with 4000mg so it was 20mg per gallon.
Everyone was seeing their results when using the lower dose so I went with the lower dose.

*Also note that if I were using Fluconazole to treat my fish for infections I would need to dose this same amount every 24hrs for no less than 5 days but not more than 10 days.

This made me feel somewhat better about using it because this would be a one time dose and not building up 5-10 times as much in my aquarium over the course of 5-10 days.

So let the battle begin!!

Before I dosed the tank I turned off my actinic lighting,changed my filter socks from 200 micron to mesh filter socks,turned off the UV channels on my Radions,removed my GFO/GAC filters and removed my skimmer cup.

I emptied 20 of the 200mg capsule in a cup of tank water and stirred for a minute or two.(throw away the empty capsules) Not all of the medication dissolved but that's okay. I then poured the entire cup in my DT in front of a powerhead.
Cloudiness went away after about an hour. Fish,corals and inverts didn't seem to notice any change at all.

I apologize in advance for my blurry pics as photography is not my strong suit.

Edit: I know some people don't like reading through entire threads and just want to see the results so I'll keep this first post updated with all the pics.

Before the treatment started...
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Day 1
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Day 2
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Day 3
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Day 4
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Day 5
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Day 6
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Day 7
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Day 8
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Day 9
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Day 10
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A big thank you to @stevo01 for writting the FAQ for this thread.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

****This treatment seems to work best in well lit areas of the tank. Some people are noticing quicker results by adding light to the shaded areas of their tank.*****

Q: Will Fluconazole kill Bryopsis?
A: YES. As of 2/2/17 Fluconazole is completely killing all Bryopsis. There have been no reports of it NOT working.

Q: How does Fluconazole work?
A: Fluconazole blocks the enzymatic pathway for the production of ergosterol. Ergosterol is essential for maintaining the cell wall integrity of plants. Ergosterol (ergosta-5,7,22-trien-3β-ol) is a sterol found in cell membranes of fungi and protozoa, serving many of the same functions that cholesterol serves in animal cells.


Q: Will Fluconazole kill anything else in my system?
A: So far Fluconazole has not killed anything other than bryopsis and GHA. Everything and I mean EVERYTHING else is unaffected.

Q: Where do I get Fluconazole?
A: There are many sources online. The most popular/best choice is to purchase the medication in 200MG CAPSULE.

Q: How much Fluconazole do I use?
A: The suggested dose is one SINGLE dose in the amount of 20mg per gallon of water. There are reefers who are experimenting with using 10mg per gallon right now, but none with completing the 1st "round".

Q: Do I do a WC before treatment?
A: Yes. It would be a good idea as the treatment is for 14 days and expect an increase in NO3.

Q: How do I prepare the the medication?
A: I have noticed with the capsules it is very tough opening them without crushing the capsule. This is what I did. Use a razor blade and cut off the rounded end of the large outer half of the capsule. Then you can very easily pour the contents out into a glass of RODI water or tank water. The amount of water doesnt matter, but make it enough to be able to mix the med up. The med isnt very soluble, but mix it up best you can. Preferably dose at night when fish are asleep. Then pour the entire dose into the DT, or sump. Some have put it into their sump socks. I dosed directly into the DT.

Q: How long is the treatment?
A: 14 days.Maybe up to 21 days if you still have GHA present in the tank.

Q: Do I remove my carbon?
A: Yes.

Q: Do I remove my skimmer cup?
A: Its suggested for at least the first few days if not the entire treatment remove your cup. If you pull your cup you may continue to run the skimmer, or turn the skimmer down as to not allow the skim to enter the cup. You do not want to remove the med.

Q: Do I take my ATS offline?
A: Yes. Completely sanitize it, and reintroduce it after all the bryopsis is 100% gone.

Q: Do I take my bio reactor offline?
A: No.

Q: Do I take my GFO offline?
A: No GFO will not remove the meds.It will also help to remove the po4 from dying algae.

Q: Do I continue to dose H2O2?
A: Yes. It will not interact with this med.

Q: Do I continue to dose Vibrant?
A: Yes. This SHOULD not interact this med. It may help to dose Vibrant as it will assist in NO3 export.

Q: Do I continue to dose colors, alk, calcium, and magnesium?
A: Yes.

Q: Should I change my lighting?
A: No.

Q: If I take my carbon reactor, or any other equipment off line/out of the tank, do I just put them back into the system after treatment?
A: No. Do not reintroduce the algae. It would be best to sterilize any equipment and throw away old media for reactors.

Q: Is it ok to take out my chaeto, or other algae's then put back after treatment?
A: No. this may reintroduce the algae. Leave the macros in the tank.

Q: Do I take my carbon reactor offline?
A: Yes.

Q:Should I stop using Purigen during treatment?
A:Yes.

Q: Do I take my UV Sterilizer offline?
A: Yes.

Q: Do I do a WC during treatment?
A: No. Unless it cannot be avoided and a WC needs to be done to save life.

Q: Will Fluconazole kill my chaetomorpha or other beneficial maco's?
A: The treatment has not harmed any macro algae.

Q: Will Fluconazole kill the parasitic algae known to burrow through LPS corals?
A: This is currently being researched.

Q: What other nuisance algae's will be killed by Fluconazole?
A: Fluconazole kills the green algae Derbesia also known as GHA. It seems that GHA takes longer to kill than the bryopsis but it still dies. Bubble algae is unknown due to most reefers treating their tanks have been using Vibrant. Vibrant kills bubble algae very well.

Q: When do I do a WC?
A: At the end of the full 14 day treatment. After treatment has completed you will go back to your normal running system. Do a WC as your NO3/PO4 levels may be high from a lot of dead algae.

-Stevo





This treatment has been a huge success.For so many years we have had to deal with this terrible algae. Well now we can finally say that beating Bryopsis is a reality. No more tearing down your tanks. No more endless hours of pulling and picking at this mess. Fluconazole has made the eradication of Bryopsis from our tanks quick,easy and painless.Please let everyone you know in the reefing community about this treatment. The more people who know,the better.

Testing by @twilliard will be ongoing to determine a minimum effective dosing plan in the near future.
If you still have any questions about using Fluconazole,don't hesitate to ask.
Thank you to everyone who has been and continues to help and contribute in the thread. R2R has the best reefing community around!!!

NCreefguy
How do I dose it ??
1 time dose and keep it for 14 days ?
Or
Dose every day for 14 days ?
I got confused about doseing
 

ksanfranfan

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UPDATE: it's been a little over 6 months sense I ran my first fluco treatment, I never had bryopsis I only had a horrific GHA issue. I was about to put a lot of work into my system and needed it gone then. Here are some before pictures.

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As you can see I had it pretty bad, it seemed no matter what I did, no matter how many water changes, rock scrubbing, or things I added to the tank did anything to fight it back. I dosed my 125 gallon with a 30 gallon sump with 20 capsules from Payless pet product. 200mg each I believe. After 21 days my tank looked like this.

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Now the pictures make it look amazing but the gha was still present. The fluco had taken out a solid 85% but there was still some in the lower light areas. I had done a pretty large upgrade to my sump right before these pictures were taken and was hoping that plus carbon dosing would handle the rest. I was wrong.
My Gha stayed minimal for the first couple weeks but about 3 weeks in it all started creeping in again. I decided to try fluco again before it started getting too out of control and ran another 20 capsules through the system. This time i got the same out come. About 85% gha destroyed but still that lingering bit in the low light areas which I had even made sure to adjust lights through the treatment to hit those areas harder. But just like the last time a couple of weeks went by and it started creeping up again. Now I know what you're thinking by now this guys nutrients must be out of control for this to keep happening but through almost this whole time my nitrates never went about 5ppm and phosphate at .16. I started carbon dosing after the first treatment with vodka and had been keeping up on that through the whole process. It seemed to be working for nutrients but all the gha needed was the light. I had finally had it with the GHA and was thinking about tearing my tank down hitting the rocks with acid and re curing them in darkness but I figured I would give the fluco one last shot.
This time I wasn't messing around I increased carbon dosing until nitrate was at near 0, increased my light times and intensity, I left my skimmer cup off for the full two weeks, did a 60% water change and increased the dose to 30 capsules. I'm happy to say this was the death blow to the gha. After 18 days I was 100% gha free. I did another 60% water change started running lots of carbon, Gfo, and continued carbon dosing. It's been a couple of months now and this is my tank today:

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Still 100% gha free.

Things iv learned through this process:
-Sea hares do not do well with fluco I lost two going through treatments that were other wise fine before.
- Light definitely plays a large roll in how the treatment works.
- Mushrooms also do not like fluco, didn't lose any but they suffered.
- you need to drop your nutrients as low as possible before the treatment to account for the massive die off that will take place in your tank.
- water change after needs to be much larger again to account for the mass die off happening in the tank. You need to get your water back to absolute perfect as quickly as possible after treatment or you are leaving the tank with perfect conditions to bring the gha back.
- skimmer should not be ran at all for the first couple days and then only with out cup after day 3.

I think a lot of people are hoping it's just a cure all and it is but if you don't solve the root cause of the issue before treatment and then remove the new root cause (i.e. The die off that happened in your tank during treatment) it will just keep returning. Just my two cents though! Happy reefing!

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I agree with mcarroll about the cuc, before and after. I also had gha before treatment and it grew out more after the 14 day trearment. My cleanup crew was lacking before the treatment but I added more afterwards specifically for gha.
Unlike bryopsis, where ergosterol is inhibited, Gha seems to be more resistant to fluconazole.
Also, testing for nitrates and phosphates while gha is actively growing will not give true results. The algae are actively taking up nutrients. I think this is where a lot of people are struggling when treating for gha. Bryopsis dies off pretty fast and the other algae's present in the tank quickly take up the nutrients from the die off and the cycle continues.
Treating for bryopsis has yielded in success for the recommended treatment period for many. Others treating for gha specifically have had to treat for prolonged periods, far longer than for bryopsis. In most of these cases people have had to perform repeat treatments and deal with a variety of other problems such as what you did.
 

MyLittleReef

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Clear photo was day 15 of treatment.
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Blurry photo was the first day of treatment.
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-120 gallons total water volume
-Added 12 capsules of 200mg Flunco from Payless pet. Broke open the capsules and mixed the powder in a cup of tank water, then dosed the tank all at once.
-No carbon
-Skimmer on but not collecting
-Lights on as usual

The treatment didn't seem to put a dent in the algae at all. The treatment made my Yuma fairly upset, it still doesn't look normal. Was my math off??

 

rockstarta78

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Clear photo was day 15 of treatment.
IMG_1422.JPG


Blurry photo was the first day of treatment.
IMG_1289.JPG


-120 gallons total water volume
-Added 12 capsules of 200mg Flunco from Payless pet. Broke open the capsules and mixed the powder in a cup of tank water, then dosed the tank all at once.
-No carbon
-Skimmer on but not collecting
-Lights on as usual

The treatment didn't seem to put a dent in the algae at all. The treatment made my Yuma fairly upset, it still doesn't look normal. Was my math off??

Some people, myself included had to do 2 treatments. I'd wait 14 days before doing the second treatment. When I did my treatment I left the skimmer off, took carbon and GFO offline, however, I still used filter floss. So I don't know if that effected my treatment. I actually forgot I had filter floss in the sump. @NCreefguy maybe able to answer the floss issue. But I think you may have to do a 2nd treatment. Also, when you said 120gl water volume, does that include the sump water volume as well?
 

MyLittleReef

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Really? Wonder what kind of algae it is then? It is as tough as nails... I can't easily break it off. It's been 16 days now. Would you wait an additional 2 weeks then dose again? Whatever it is, it came in on a snail and someone told me it was bryopsis.
 

Being sticky and staying connected: Have you used any reef-safe glue?

  • I have used reef safe glue.

    Votes: 99 87.6%
  • I haven’t used reef safe glue, but plan to in the future.

    Votes: 6 5.3%
  • I have no interest in using reef safe glue.

    Votes: 5 4.4%
  • Other.

    Votes: 3 2.7%
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