I prefer fericoxide (gfo) from BRS but if you prefer Seachem this is good. But test alot while treating tge tank. https://www.redseafish.com/reef-care-program/algae-management-program/no3po4-x/
Bryopsis Cure: My Battle With Bryopsis Using Fluconazole
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starypotter
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Test a lot in general or should I test for something specific? I don't have a reactor so I was planning to put a bag between the baffles in my sump I was under the impression GFO is a sort that actually needs a reactor right?
Test for no3 and po4 every 3 or 4 days to make sure you don't bottom out once you're treating it. And as far as the gfo goes no you don't really need a reactor if you put it in a bag under heavy flow. But you need the pellet type for that.
starypotter
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Okay cool I'll look into that, I would imagine GFO has more benefits than the plain phos-whatever stuff from Seachem? So you say I don't want to bottom out? So you mean I'll want a little bit of nitrate and phosphate in my system? My nitrate is 0 while phosphate is 5ppm. Should I be looking for a way to raise my nitrate then?
If you have a mixed Reef then you want at least 2 ppm. no.3 for your corals to have good color and not starve. You need to have between 0 and .02 po4. There are a lot of arguments on this subject but magnesium needs a minut amount of po4 to do its job. I would suggest that you go to the reef chemistry forum as there is a lot of GREAT reading there on the subject.
starypotter
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Oh I didn't realize that, thank you! I right now I only have zoas, gsp, and a hammer, but I've got more variety in QT. I'll check out the chemistry tag right away!
You're welcome
People have done it both ways however I suggest to not run your skimmer or at least let it run over without the cup for the duration of the treatment.
A couple of hours or so should be sufficient. Hydrogen peroxide kills green hair algae. If it turns out that's what you have and it's only on some of your rock that has no SPS on it, you can actually dip your rock into a solution of 25% hydrogen peroxide and 75% Rodi water after pulling off what you can. Dip for only a few minutes if a coral is on the rock, rinse in sw then return to tank. It'll all turn white within 24 hours . Make sure you have enough clean up crew to eat the remains. That also goes for while you're doing the fluconazole treatment. You're going to need plenty of clean up crew. I found that Mexican turbos worked the best and trochus snails are also fantastic.
No it shouldn't. It depends on your skimmer. If you're getting too many micro bubbles in your system and don't have any pH issues especially if you shut it off then shutting it off wouldn't hurt.
Most likely yes a form of it. We found that it kills nearly all species of bryopsis.
Thanks for the update i dosed my tank a a day ago and i did run my skimmer without the cup letting it overflow, now i have closed it completely you think it will be a problem that i had it running with out the cup?UPDATE: it's been a little over 6 months sense I ran my first fluco treatment, I never had bryopsis I only had a horrific GHA issue. I was about to put a lot of work into my system and needed it gone then. Here are some before pictures.
As you can see I had it pretty bad, it seemed no matter what I did, no matter how many water changes, rock scrubbing, or things I added to the tank did anything to fight it back. I dosed my 125 gallon with a 30 gallon sump with 20 capsules from Payless pet product. 200mg each I believe. After 21 days my tank looked like this.
Now the pictures make it look amazing but the gha was still present. The fluco had taken out a solid 85% but there was still some in the lower light areas. I had done a pretty large upgrade to my sump right before these pictures were taken and was hoping that plus carbon dosing would handle the rest. I was wrong.
My Gha stayed minimal for the first couple weeks but about 3 weeks in it all started creeping in again. I decided to try fluco again before it started getting too out of control and ran another 20 capsules through the system. This time i got the same out come. About 85% gha destroyed but still that lingering bit in the low light areas which I had even made sure to adjust lights through the treatment to hit those areas harder. But just like the last time a couple of weeks went by and it started creeping up again. Now I know what you're thinking by now this guys nutrients must be out of control for this to keep happening but through almost this whole time my nitrates never went about 5ppm and phosphate at .16. I started carbon dosing after the first treatment with vodka and had been keeping up on that through the whole process. It seemed to be working for nutrients but all the gha needed was the light. I had finally had it with the GHA and was thinking about tearing my tank down hitting the rocks with acid and re curing them in darkness but I figured I would give the fluco one last shot.
This time I wasn't messing around I increased carbon dosing until nitrate was at near 0, increased my light times and intensity, I left my skimmer cup off for the full two weeks, did a 60% water change and increased the dose to 30 capsules. I'm happy to say this was the death blow to the gha. After 18 days I was 100% gha free. I did another 60% water change started running lots of carbon, Gfo, and continued carbon dosing. It's been a couple of months now and this is my tank today:
Still 100% gha free.
Things iv learned through this process:
-Sea hares do not do well with fluco I lost two going through treatments that were other wise fine before.
- Light definitely plays a large roll in how the treatment works.
- Mushrooms also do not like fluco, didn't lose any but they suffered.
- you need to drop your nutrients as low as possible before the treatment to account for the massive die off that will take place in your tank.
- water change after needs to be much larger again to account for the mass die off happening in the tank. You need to get your water back to absolute perfect as quickly as possible after treatment or you are leaving the tank with perfect conditions to bring the gha back.
- skimmer should not be ran at all for the first couple days and then only with out cup after day 3.
I think a lot of people are hoping it's just a cure all and it is but if you don't solve the root cause of the issue before treatment and then remove the new root cause (i.e. The die off that happened in your tank during treatment) it will just keep returning. Just my two cents though! Happy reefing!
do i need to turn off the blue lights for it to work better ot not really i can have both white and blue?I dosed my tank on October 25th for hair algae that I had no luck getting rid of. Once I turned off the blues in my tank and turned up the whites, I was stunned just how much of my rocks were covered. I can say without a doubt that this stuff works. I have been taking pictures every 3 days to document. Below is the pic of 1 area of rock from the day of dosing and the same area of rock today. I still have 5 more days of treatment to go. Depending on how it looks after the 14 days, I may let it go to 21 days. I haven't lost any livestock or corals. My corals actually seem to have grown a bit more than usual. It's nice to see how much coralline I really do have.
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